Fiber-Yarn-Fabric

1. Spreading methods:-
Face to face/two way
The two face sides (or right sides) of the fabric are placed together so they touch.
The fabric can run in either direction.
Fabrics commonly laid this way are those that don't have a one-way design or nap
such as:
 drill
 calico
 canvas
 interlock
 jersey.

Special care must be taken to make surethat the required pattern pieces are cut
correctly. For example, laying a frontpiece of a shirtdown will result in a pair
being cut. If a pocket is only needed on one side, only that side will require drill
holes.
Fabric can either be cut at the required length and then spread immediately back
or it can be folded back on itself at the right length.
Face up/two way
The right side of the fabric is always facing up.
The fabric runs either way.
Fabrics commonly laid this way are those that don't have a one-way design or nap
but have a definite right or wrong side such as:
gaberdine
printed fabric.
A variation of this is face down/two way.
Fabric is spread, cut and then turned either manually or on a turntable before
coming back on itself.
Face to face/one way

2. The two faces are placed together so they touch, but both plies must be placed
with the design or pile facing in the same direction.
Fabrics commonly laid this way are those which have an obvious pile direction
such as corduroy, or a one-way pattern wherethe main motifs go in one
direction.
Care mustbe taken if both sides of the garmentare not symmetrical.
Fabric is spread, cut and then turned either manually or on a turntable before
coming back on itself.
All faces up/one way
The right side of the fabric is always facing up and the design or the pile mustbe
in the one direction.
Fabrics commonly laid this way are those which have an obvious pile direction
such as velvet, or wherepatterns need to be matched, such as stripes or even
checks.
Garments that haveasymmetricalpattern pieces (both sides not the same) may
be laid this way.
A variation of this is all faces down/one way.
Fabric is spread, cut and then returned to the start before laying the next ply
TYPES OF SPREADING
Cutting spread are classified by three factors:
1. The linear factor of the material
2. The direction of the material surfacewith respectto the cutting table surface
3. The direction of the surfacenap or design with respectto the ends of the
spread.
The linear factor of the material refers to whether the spread is made from bolts
of yardageor sectional pieces such as cut components sloping) or leather skins .
There are three directions with respect to table surface:
1. Face up,
2. Face down

3. 3. Face to face.
In face up spreads, allplies are spread with the right side of material facing away
fromthe cutting table surface, whereas in the face down spread all plies have the
right side facing toward the table surface.
Both face up and face down are called one way spreads (“faceone way”). The
face to face spread is one in which all odd numbered plies face down.
There are two directions with respect to surfacenap or surfacedesign :
1. One way direction
2. Two way direction
In nap one way ( or design one way), the nap of all plies in the spread faces one
end of the spread , whereas in the two way nap ( design) direction spread, the
naps of alternating plies face toward the opposite ends of the ply. There are three
classes of symmetry in fabric surfacedesign :
1. The design is symmetricalin both directions fabric.
2. The design is symmetricalin one fabric direction and asymmetrical in the other
3. The design is asymmetricalin both direction of the fabric.
Design one way spreads apply only to those fabrics having a design which is
asymmetricalwith respect to either the length or width direction . Most napped
fabric are faced one way in cutting spread .the two popular direction for
spreading napped fabric are face up one way and face to face one way . Spreads
have either cut or folded ends ,folded end spread are always face to face spreads ,
whereas spread with cut ends may be either face to face or face one way . This
will vary with spreading equipment and method .
Bundling Systems
"Bundling" is the process of disassembling the stacked and cut pieces and
reassembling them in production lots grouped by garment unit, colour dye lot,
and number of garments. Manufacturers usea variety of bundling methods

4. depending upon their needs, with four basic systems being the mostcommon
among local manufacturers:
Itembundling - all pieces that comprisea garmentare bundled together.
Group bundling - several(10-20) garments areputtogether in a bundle and given
to a single operator or team to sew.
Progressivebundling - pieces corresponding to specific sections of the garment
(such as sleeves or a collar) are bundled together and given to one operator.
Other operators sew other parts of the garment, which are then assembled into
the finished garment in the final phase.
Unit production system(UPS) - individual garment pieces are delivered to sewers
using a computerized, fully mechanized "assembly line" that runs throughoutthe
manufacturing facility. Using a UPS computer monitoring system, a manufacturer
can fully track the production of a garment, identify where sewing slowdowns are
occurring, and reroute garment pieces to other sewers who work morequickly.
Gerber Garment Technology Inc. manufactures a UPS system, which eliminates
the need for passing apparel piece bundles fromworker to worker. This lowers
labour costs because employees spend less time handling bundles and more time
sewing. Italso facilitates short-cyclemanufacturing.
Modular or "team based" manufacturing is another type of bundling that
combines some of the above characteristics. Developed in Japan, it is the
grouping of sewing operators into teams of eight to ten. Rather than each sewer
performing a single task, they work together on a garmentfromstart to finish.
One-third of the U.S. apparelindustry has switched to either unit production or
modular manufacturing. In Los Angeles, however, only a few major manufacturers
engage in computerized unit productions (constituting about ten percent of total
production) while the majority of contractors still use progressivebundling.
Bundling workers also carry outimportant quality controlfunctions. They inspect
the garmentpieces for cutting problems, fabric irregularities, or any other
problems that may have occurred in production thus far.
- See more at: http://www.textileschool.com/articles/222/bundling-reassembling-
cut-pieces#sthash.DDpElHfY.dpuf
Cutting Room Overview

5. Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being
cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garmentparts, i.e. front,
back, sleeve, collar shapes etc.). In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are
laid on a table and large number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric
stack is called as lay. The cutting process includes number of sub-processes and
flow of the processes is as following. Each process is briefly explained in the
following.
1. Pattern / Marker: According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment
parts are made on the pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual
marker these pattern pieces are used for marker making. On the other hand in
CAD systempatterns are made in computer. Later using a plotter markers are
made on sheet. In the second case cutting department receive ready marker.
2. Cut ratio receiving: Prior to cutting, cutting department get a job sheet from
planning department or merchandiser or production manager that includes total

6. quantity of garmentpieces to be cut, sizes ratio of the garments and colour-wise
sizebreak up. According to the size and colour ratio cutting team prepareone
marker or multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are
planned in this stage.
3. Fabric receiving: Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the
averageconsumption of the fabric fromthe marker. In caseof multiple colour
order, colour wise requirement is made. Fabric department issuefabric to cutting
against the fabric requirement (generally requisition slip is used).
4. Fabric relaxation: This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During
rolling of fabric it get stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form
otherwisegarment would shrink after making. To relax the fabric roll or thān is
opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.
5. Spreading (Fabric Layering): In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above
another maintaining pre-defined maker length and correct ply tension. Fabric is
layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problem. Spreading is done
by manual layering or automatic layering machine can be used. During layering of
the fabric, fabric edge is aligned at one side.
6. Marker Making: After layering of a lay, pre made paper patterns (or ready
markers madeby plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manualmarker
making, marking is done around each pattern shape using marking chalk. This
process is called as marker making. In a marker all garment components are
placed.
7. Cutting: Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is
done using straight knifeor other cutting means. In cutting process garment
component are separated. On the basis of pattern shapedifferent cutting
method/ machine are selected.

7. 8. Numbering: Separated garmentcomponents are numbered to ensurethat in
stitching all components fromsame layer are stitched together. It is important to
avoid shadevariation in a garment. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut
components may be passed through other processes likeprinting and
embroidery. There is maximum chance of mixing of the components. If there is
layer number in each componentthen at the time of stitching only correct
components will be stitched together.
9. Sorting: According to production system(Makethrough, progressivebundleor
one piece flow system) cut components are sorted. In sorting all component of a
garment placed together. Size wisesorting and in case multiple colours are cut in
a single lay, colour wise sorting will be required.
10. Bundling: As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces
with all componentare tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each
bundle is marked with bundle number, style name, sizenumber and quantity of
pieces in that bundle. At this stage cutting are ready to send to production line for
stitching.