Quality assurance department (sop)

1 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t
Page 1 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
AGM (Quality & Product Development)
B Sc in Textile Engineering (ADUST)
Cell: +880 1708 454 779
Email: mizan5379@yahoo.com
Skype: mizan_mehben

Quality
Assurance
Department

Index
1. Definition of Quality
2. Definition of Quality Control (QC)
3. Definition of Quality Inspection (QI)
4. Definition of Quality Assurance (QA)
5. Quality Organogram of Department
6. Jobs Responsibility
7. Four (4) point System
8. Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)
9. Fabrics Delivery Approval Authority procedure
10.Quality Policy
11. Process Flow Chart of Quality
12.Online Inspection
13.Fleece Fabrics Inspection
14.Sueded Fabrics Inspection
15.Print (AOP) Fabrics Inspection
16.Yarn dyed Inspection
17.Table Inspection
18.Inspection Machine
19.Compactor Machine Inspection
20. Hand folding
21.Grey Fabrics Inspection
22. Knitting Online Inspection
23. Shade Check Procedure
24. Running Shade check
25. GSM Checking Procedure
26. Shrinkage Correction
27. GSM Correction
28. Sample Procedure
29. Buyer wise Testing Requirement
30. Buyer wise File Keeping procedure
31.Quality Related Shortcut

Quality Assurance Department
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Quality Assurance: Quality Assurance is a process focused concept,
where the processes are put in place to ensure the correct steps are
done in the correct way. If the correct processes are in place there is
some assurance that the actual results will turn out as expected.
Quality Control: Quality Control is a product focused concept, where
checking of the actual results are done to ensure that things are as
expected. If the correct controls are in place you can know for certain
that the actual results have been achieved because the actual results
have been checked
Quality Inspection: Graded the quality standard by inspection.

Quality Organogram of Department -
AGM (Admin) GM (Fabrics) Director
Data Entry-1
ApproveredAsst Manager (QAD) AGM (Qality & Product Development)
Executive-3, Knitting,
Dyeing, Finishing
Inspector-4
Director
Inspector (GSM Cutting & Board)-5
Inspector (Machine)-4
Inspector (Dust remover)-2
Inspector (Hand Folding)-5
Inspector (Rib Collar & Cuff)-4
Inspector (Hold & Reject Check)-2
Inspector (Yarn Dyed & Subcontact)-1 (G)
Inspector (Report & Delivery Update)-2
Executive
Excutive/Incharge-1
Supervisor-2
Inspector-20, M/c-5
Sr Executive- G
Executive (Floor)-G
Executive (Shade)-3
Incharge-3
Supervisor-2
H&M (GPQ) R&DAsst Manager (others)
Lidl (GPQ) Grey Fabrics InspectionHema, Bay City & Others
Sr Executive Sr Executive
Executive (Shade)
Executive (Sample)
Sr Inspector (Stenter)-8
Sr Inspector/Inspector (Compact)-10
Inspector (teble Runn Shade Check)-4
Inspector (Documents)-3
Data Entry
Executive (Elastic)
Executive (Grey)
Sr Executive
Managing Director
AGM
Company Profile.
Quality Assurance Department
Chaity Composite Ltd.

Job Responsibility:
Md Mizanur Rahman- AGM (Quality & Product
Development)
1. Planning & Monitoring of Production Target.
2. Ensure that the Quality Standard is being met by Forecasting
& reviewing the result.
3. Develop Discipline, by implementing the Rules &Regulation in
Department.
4. Ensure acceptable Quality level (AQL) in textile manner.
5. Give a continuous guidance to the Executive, along with others
for target fabric specification.
6. Supervision constantly to Grey & Final QC.
7. Give the full support the Research & Development
Department.
8. Make a continuous study of work improvement & give report to
the higher authority.
9. Response & act in the customer complain & query.
10. Ensure that all safety followed by the team.
11. Continuously study the Cost saving of the Department.
12. Enthusiastic to wastage utilization.
13. Optimize Manpower Utilization.
14. Worker Turnover & Absenteeism control as per Plan.
15. Skill Development in the Floor.
16. Ensure that all Lab test Report (Physical) are recorded.
17. Follow the concept of Top Management.
18. Regularly held a meeting to all people once in a week/ Time
to time.
19. Co-ordination with all departments all quality parameter
inform time to time all department.
20. Check the hold fabric & give decision quickly.

Mr Monir Hossain- Asst Manager (QAD)-
1. Planning & Monitoring of Delivery Target.
2. All Buyer fabrics inspection Without H&M
3. Fulfill the buyer wise quality requirement
4. Ensure the delivery target with Quality
5. Hold Fabric Take decision immediately
6. Inline fabrics ensure the Quality Requirement
7. Ensure the 4 point system reporting
8. Grey fabric inspection & give decision
9. Ensure the good house keeping
10. Manpower utilize
11.Recruited
Monowar Hossain Nahid- Senior Executive (GPQ- H&M)-
Sample
1. Mainly H&M GPQ Responsible
2. All sample check
3. Hold (H&M) Fabric inspection & Take decision immediately
4. FTD Approval & Ensure Product Match with FTD
5. Audit Related all points need to be check & Confirm available
as Buyer Requirement
6. Ensure the testing requirement
7. Yarn test & Uster Report
8. Support to PP Sample
9. FTD Approval
10. Resource & Development
11.On time delivery with Quality
12. Keep record Sample inspection & Yarn test
13. Ensure the quality Standard which is delivered

SM Younus Ali Ruble – Senior Executive (Shade & Lidl
Responsible)
1. Confirm the Shade as buyer concept
2. GPQ (Lidl HK) Responsible
3. Keep record Lidl (HK) order summary
4. Approval taken from Buyer
5. Within short time shade confirm & Feedback to production
6. All Lab dip take from Lab Then Confirm with Related
Merchandiser
7. Shade not ok keep record
8. Keep all approval Swatch
9. Ensure the PP Sample (Hema)
Md. Shafiqul Islam- Executive (Floor Inspection)-
1. Fulfill the delivery target with quality
2. Requirement wise delivery width, gsm shrinkage, Spirality & All
Accessories (Rib, Collar & Cuff, Back neck tap)
3. Check process loss
4. All testing confirm then delivered
5. Return for reprocess Dyeing & Finish, Keep Record & Update
after Reprocess
6. Keep Record Shrinkage & Actual GSM, Width, Process Loss in
Delivery Sheet
7. Ensure the good house keeping
Jahirul: Data Entry Operators-
1. Make Reports- inspection, Compact, Hand folding, Inspection M/c
2. Handover Record
3. Reprocess (Dyeing & Finishing)
4. Return to Dyeing & Finishing
5. Order Summary
6. Reject Department Wise
7. Update Manpower List
8. Month wise Manpower Left & Recruit List

Md Anower Hossain- Executive (H&M GPQ)
1. Ensure Audit Related Keep all documents
2. Uster Yarn Report
3. Yarn test Report
4. MR Ensure the Fulfil Buyer Requirement
5. Order Sheet
6. Shade Continuity Card
7. GSM Record
8. Inspection Report
9. Fabrics delivered with test & Necessary documents
10. Handle the H&M Buyer
Ahasan Kobir Sumon- GPQ-H&M (Sample)
1. All H&M Sample
2. Yarn test
3. Uster Report
4. FTD approval Ensure
5. Keep record Sample inspection & Yarn test
6. Keep File (Knitting, Dyeing & Finishing)
Shohanur Rahman- GPQ- Product Development
1. 1st
Batch Follow up
2. Yarn test
3. Uster Report Collect
4. Floor monitoring GSM & Width
5. Shrinkage Follow up

Definition of 4 Point:
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Procedure of Four Point System:
1. Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machineries.
2. These machineries are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the
inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table.
3. Inspection machineries are either power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric over
the inspection table.
4. The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form.
5. Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric (meter/yard).
Fabric defects point values based on the following:
Length of defect in Fabric Points allotted
Up to 3 inch 1
Over 3 inch up to 6 inch 2
Over 6 inch up to 9 inch 3
Over 9 inch 4
Holes and Opening
1 or less 2
Over 1 inch 4

Defects and Penalty points
Defect Length Points Sticker Colour
Less then3” 1 White
3”-6” 2 Green
6”-9” 3 Yellow
Over 9” 4 Red
Hole Points Sticker Color
Less or equal to 2.5cm/1” 2 Green
Larger than 2.5cm/1” 4 Red
Example:
Fabric width
1m
5cm
10cm
2. Total points awarded for second m/yd is 1.
1. Total points awarded for first m/yd is 4.
2+4 points=6 points.
“Regardless of length/size or number of
Defects, no more than 4 penalty points may
Be assigned on any linear meter/yard”.
3. Total points awarded for third m/yd is 3.
4. Total points awarded for fourth m/yd is 4.
4+4 points=8 points.
“Regardless of length/size or number of
Defects, no more than 4 penalty points may
be assigned on any linear meter/yard”.
15cm
1m/yd
4cm hole
25cm
1m/yd
1m/yd
1m/yd

Calculations and Result:
Total defect points per 100 yard square are calculated.
If fabric rolls contains less than 40 points per 100 yard square are
considered “first” quality and as an Acceptance criteria.
If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards square are
considered “second”.
Example:
A fabric roll 130 yard long and 45 inch wide contains the
following defects: -
6 defects up to 3 inch- ................................... 6 X 1 = 6 points
5 defects over 3 inch but less 6 inch- ............. 5 X 2 = 10 points
2 defects over 6 inch but less 9 inch- ..............3 X 2 = 6 points
1 defects over 9 inch- .................................... 1 X 4 = 4 points
1 hole over 1 inch dimensions- ....................... 1 X 4 = 4 points
………………………………………………………………………………………
Total defect points................................................= 30 points
Therefore,
Points per 100 yard square =
Total points scored in roll X 36 inch
……………………………………………………………… X 100
Fabric width/inches X Total length yard inspected
30 X 36
= ……………………… X 100
130 X 45
= 18.4 (Defect points per 100 yard square.) So, the roll is
accepted.

Allowable Maximum Points
1.
2.
3.
4.
Accepted Average & Maximum:
Fabrics Type Avg/yards Max/yards Avg/Meter Max/Meter
Single Jersey 15 20 17 22
Double Jersey 18 24 20 26
Interlock 22 28 24 31

Procedure of Delivery (sop)
1. Without Test Result Please don’t Delivery Any Quantity of
Fabrics.
2. Without Rib/Single Jersey/ Back neck tap, not delivery.
3. Any Measurable part, Like Collar & Cuff, Stripe Yarn dyed
Fabrics should be check as buyer requirement.
4. Inline Fabrics All test should be check & Shrinkage CHECK from
3-4 rolls & Ensure Acceptable tolerance,
5. Width ± 1”, More than need to Approval from Related Person.
Also infirm to cutting department.
6. Before Delivery must be Re-check by Shift In-charge, Width,
GSM, Shrinkage delivery report with Batch information.
7. 1st Batch Shade check & crosses check for confirmation.
8. All Approved shade must be keeping before dyeing from
related Merchandiser
9. All shade check two person avoid the wrong decision. (Keep
sign)
10. 1st Batch check with Booking All information, like width,
GSM, Accessories & Shade Reference.
11. Every day at 1st All delivered batches should be showing
to Responsible person & take Sign
12. Unacceptable Issue not delivery.
We have committed good quality fabrics delivery which is
customer Requirement

Fabrics Delivery Approval Authority:
1. Check Buyer Requirement, Width, GSM, Shade match, Shrinkage,
Accessories ( Rib, Collar & Cuff, Piping, Back neck tap with
Measurement)- Confirm from Online In-charge & Executive
(Shade)
2. Test Result (Shrinkage, Twist, Rubbing, Pilling & Wash Fastness)-
confirm from Physical Lab Manager
3. Fulfil the Buyer Requirement then possible to Delivered
i. GSM- 5-7% Low from Required, plus side max 2% average
below from requirement
ii. Shrinkage L-4% W-7% Spirality 5%
iii. Width ±1 inch
iv. Test as Buyer Required
v. Angle 5% from width wise
vi. Bowing 5% from width wise
4. Approved by any problems fabrics–
i. GSM, Width & Shrinkage (Cotton) - Knitting GM &
Manager, Finishing AGM & Manager with Sign.
ii. GSM, Width & Shrinkage (Lycra)- Finishing AGM &
Manager with Sign
iii. Shade, Uneven, Hairiness- AGM(Dyeing) with sign
iv. Test (Color Fastness, Pilling, Rubbing)- AGM(Dyeing),
also Physical Lab Manager with sign
5. Over all if take Responsibility Related Merchandiser then we can
delivered any kind of problems fabrics but need to take sign.
6. Any person given the approval then we send mail to related person
in the department
7. Without proper inspection not a single kg fabrics delivered

Quality Policy (¸bMZ gvb bxwZ)
Vision: - To Achieve Continues improvement in garments product
quality fabrics & attain sustainability through united effort.
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Mission: - To understand the buyers demand & Fulfil their requirement
by producing better quality Fabrics.
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Policy:-
1. To build up a long lasting better Relationship with buyer by fulfilling
the their demands
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2. To improve employees skills through training & Evaluate/ Appreciate
their work
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3. To maintain a Cleaner workstations & to build up self-Motivated &
Responsible work force.
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OK
OK
Non Conformed
Process Flow Chart of Fabric Quality
Re-process Dyeing
Stenter M/c
Shade uneven
Not OK Spot, Hairiness,
Hand feel
Lab Test
Shrinkage, Fastness &
Others
Compacting
Dia & GSM
Not OK Check
Fabrics Inspection
4 point System
Shade Continuity
Finish Fabric Store

Impact of Higher Quality Control
Less Wastage
Less Re work
Few Reject Lower Cost
Less Backlog High Productivity
Few Complaints
Few Returns
Quality Inspection
Remove of Fault
Indicate of Fault
Inform must be concern person
Cause Indicate of Fault
Inspection

Standard Operation Procedure
Inspection Area-
1. Yarn Inspection
2. Grey Fabrics Inspection
3. Dyed Yarn Inspection
4. Printed Fabrics Inspection
5. After Dyeing Fabrics Inspection
Online Inspection Point
a) Shade Give to Light Box for Approved
b) Hand feel & Hairiness Check with FTD
c) 10% Rolls check table, Running Shade/Uneven
d) Naps, Hole, Patta Check, Line/Sinker Mark
e) Width & GSM confirm with Requirement
f) Within ½ inch pin in Selvage more than infirm to
Finishing
g) Give to one meter fabrics Laboratory for Test,
Shrinkage/Fastness
h) Accessories available or not (Rib, Collar & Cuff)
i) Check Measurement if Required Like Stripe Fabrics
j) Information should be write down in Batch Card
Clearly & Online inspection Loge book
k) If any unacceptable must be infirm to Shift In-
charge

Yarn Dyed Inspection:-
1. Color Bleeding
2. Measurement on Stripe
3. Any fly contaminations
4. Yarn Contaminations
5. Bowing
6. Angle/ Slanted
7. Twisted/ Spirality
8. Shrinkage
Fabrics Inspection-
1. Shade Check
2. Hairiness
3. Naps
4. Bowing/Slanted
5. Shrinkage
6. Twist/Spirality
7. Sinker/ Line Mark
8. Uneven Shade
9. Running Shade
10. GSM/ Width
Print Fabrics Inspection:
1. Check with Stranded Swatch
2. Print Durability
3. Color Bleeding
4. Before & After Check any Change
5. After Finishing print any Change
6. Shrinkage

Fleece Fabric Inspection
1. Shade Check
2. Before & After Shade Check what about Change
3. Chemical Test
4. Hairiness
5. Re-tension / Stitch Recovery
6. Brush Fiber Migrations
7. Naps
8. Sinker/ Line Mark
9. GSM/ Width
Sueded Fabrics Inspection:
1. Shade Check
2. Before & After Shade Check what about Change
3. Line/ Sinker Mark
4. Naps
5. Hairiness
6. Hole before or After (Pin/ Sueded)
Inspection Machine Point
1. First Check online information
2. Two person Maximum two hours continue inspection
3. Note in Register loge book which person inspection with sign
4. 4 point system follows
5. Machine Speed Light Color 16/18 & dark Color 18/20 RPM
6. Lux value 1000+ & Light Expired time one year or 1300 hours
which is 1st valid

Table Inspection Point
1. Two person together Inspection
3. Running Shade/ Uneven/ Hairiness
4. Hold Fabrics & Take Quick decision
5. Follow 4 point System
6. Result OK/ Reject
7. Lux value 1000+ & Light Expired time one year or 1300 hours
which is 1st valid
Compactor M/c Inspection Point
1. Two person together Inspection
3. Machine Speed 16/18 RPM
4. Width & GSM check
5. Hole, Naps, Hairiness, Crease Mark, Compaction Mark, Any
spot, Patta, Lycra Missing/Out, Yarn/Fly Contra, Width
Variation, Pin out, Jumping, Recovery, Slanted, Bowing,
6. If any measurement like Stripe
7. Within ½ inch pin in Selvage more than infirm to Finishing
8. Roll to Roll Shade & GSM cut
9. Inspection as 4 point System
10. Maintain Register Loge book

Compact & Inspection M/c before starting Ensure the below issue-
1. Shade
2. Running shade
3. Dia ±
4. GSM ±
5. Enzyme Dust
6. Hairiness
7. Shrinkage
8. Spirality
9. Bowing
10. Angle
11.Any Measurable issue, Stripe & print
12. Accessories available with match (Rib, Collar & Cuff)
Any problem first take decision then started m/c otherwise hold

Hand folding- Confirming Quality Standard then can
Folding-
a) Shade Confirm
b) Running Shade
c) Dia Confirm ±1 inch
d) GSM Check ±5%
e) Enzyme Dust
f) Hairiness
g) Joint to Joint Roll
h) Shrinkage Confirm
i) Spirality Confirm
j) Bowing Check
k) Angle / Slanted
l) Measurable point like Yarn dyed Stripe Check
m) Rib & Body Match
n) Accessories available with Match or not
Any unaccepted problems first take decision then
packet or Compact otherwise hold.

Knitting Online QC
1. Batch Card Check
a) Yarn lot
b) Yarn Count
c) Buyer Name
d) Stitch Length Cross Check
e) GSM Check
f) Yarn Brand Check- Combed/Carded
2. Fabric Quality
a) Loop
b) Needle Brocken/ Mark
c) Sinker Mark
d) Count/Lot Mix
e) Oil Sport/ Mark
f) Set off
g) Contra- Fly/Yarn
h) Lycra Out
Out of 4 point System
1. Running Shade
2. Patta, Line Mark
3. Lycra Missing
4. Hairiness
5. Naps
6. Uneven
7. GSM issue
8. Width short/ Long
9. Brush Problem
Only need take decision Major or minor

Bowing/Skewing:
Bowing is the measurement of the bowing arc at the highest point of a line at right angles
Between the two selvages.
A Bow depth
Fabric width
Skewing/Twisting:
Skewing/Twisting is the measurement of the highest point between a weft thread/row and a
line at right angles between the two selvages/folds.
Skew depth -A
Fabric width
Tolerance Calculation
____________ x 100 =
Cuttable width
A Max %
Solid colours/Prints
Stripes/Checks
Exception:
Skewing are characteristics for woven twill/satin constructions and for single jersey.
The skewing tolerance must therefore be agreed on each order separately, and stated on the
“Fabric Technical Data”. The H&M garment supplier must first check twisting and eventual
Distortion on garment after:
•Eventual garment treatment.
•Washing according to care instruction.
In case of Inconsistent skewing/twisting in-between inspected rolls the inspection has failed.
Rolls exceeding these tolerances have failed.
Fabric Types
Max % of fabric width
Woven Jersey
3% 5%
2% 4%

Shade Check in Light Box
1. Two person together shade Check Avoid the Wrong Decision.
Because Two Person not Same Measurable Power, So combined take
decision.
2. with Three Light Shade Check
3. Make Family Shade A&B
4. Light D65, TL 83, A-10
5. 1
st
Batch Shade check with Woven Standard & Counter Sample
6. Next Batch Check Batch to Batch with Counter
7. White & Grey Mélange Must be Check with UV Light
8. Metameric Check in A-10 Home Light
9. Shade Check in 45 degree Angle
Light Sourcing (Knit)
1. Shop Light (Primary ) -TL83 Lax Value 1000 to more
2. Day Light (Secondary)- D65 Lax Value 1000 to More
3. Home Light - A-10 Lax Value 800 to More
4. Morning Sun Light – Ultra Violet (UV)
Light Sourcing (Under Wear)
1. Shop Light (Primary ) - TL83 Lax Value 1000 to more/18w
2. Home Light (Secondary) -A-10 Lax Value 800 to More/18w
3. Day Light - D65 Lax Value 1000 to More/40w
4. Morning Sun Light – Ultra Violet (UV)/18w

Example of H&M Shade Record that may be
used.
For heavy knit the yarn from different dye lots should be knitted into swatches, in order to
sort the different shades into families prior to knitting, recorded with order number, date,
dye lot and family number, weight, and planned country.
Full Width Cutting
At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric inspection, cut a 30 cm/6” full
width cutting. The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the light box against:
o Colour Standard
o Approved fabric
o Fabric Technical Data
Shade deviation within a roll must be checked by folding or sewing:
o Side to side
o Side-centre-side
o Beginning-end
Colour Shade D65 TL83 A
To App. fabric: Ok Ok Ok
Shade: A Family: A, E, D
Roll No: 1-30, 91-150
Total length: 15000m
Planned country: SE, DE, CN

COLOUR EVALUATION – GENERAL
Colours are evaluated visually in light box with the support of instrumental evaluation.
General Colour Requirements
o Standard is standard throughout the production
o Colours must be matched to standard in H&M illuminants
o Samples must not show metamerism against standard.
o Optical Brightening Agents (OBA) are only accepted in white (10-100, 10,201, 10-
213) and neon colours
o Accessories/trim should be evaluated using the same guidelines, against standard
considering approved shell fabric
o Colours must meet H&M tolerances visually and instrumentally
Standard is Standard
Colours are evaluated against standard throughout the production.
Previously bulk fabric was evaluated against approved l/d. The effect of this was that the
colour difference between two orders could be very big, and very obvious to our customers,
see sketch below.
NOT OK
In order to get an acceptable colour match between products, the standard has to be kept
as standard throughout the production chain. Thus standard to lab dip DE<1.0, and
standard to production (dye lot) DE<1.0. Always keep the standard as the standard.

Additions for COS, & Other Stories and Weekday
Collection
 Colour evaluation requires a tolerance of DE<1.0 within the same shade family.
 We do not accept shades from opposite shade family within one order quantity.
 We do not accept opposite shade families within one order to be packed
country wise.
 It is of high importance that shades that already are within the DE<1.0
tolerance also have a close visual match to the standard. Always keep the
standard as the standard.
All shades must be within the tolerance of DE<1.0, and within the same shade
family.

0.7-1.0
Yellow
Blue
Worm
Green Red
0-0.69
DE˂ 1.0
Blue Red
Blue Green
Yellow Green
Yellow Red
Additive color mixing Subtractive color mixing

Munsell Test: (‡Pvu‡Li Kvjvi †Uvb cix¶v)

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Colour continuity record:
Colour and shades must be controlled by maintaining colour continuity
records. Dye lot to dye lot, within a dye lot and within a roll must be
checked. Records must be Available for H&M and kept for at least 6
month.
The swatches must be a minimum of 4x10 cm and be evaluated visually
in a light box. A close critical match to colour standard and approved
fabric must be achieved in; TL83, D65 and display no dramatic
difference in colour appearance in A-light (tungsten). For more
detailed information see Supplier Colour Guide Book.
For the use of ISO 105-A02: 1993 Grey scale for assessing change in
colour there should not Be a greater difference than 4-5 between any
parts within a dye lot and roll.
Full width cutting:
At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric
inspection, cut a 30 cm/6” full
Width cutting. The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the
light box against:
•Colour Standard
•Approved fabric
•Fabric Technical Data
Shade deviation within a roll must be checked by folding or sewing:
•Side to side
•Side-centre-side
•Beginning-end

If difference is more then 4-5 on the grey scale between any parts,
the H&M local office must be contacted.
• Check weight on minimum 10% of the rolls chosen for inspection.
•Weigh a 100 cm² cutting; convert the weight into m²/yd².
•Weight should correspond to weight stated on Fabric Technical Data.
If the deviation is more than -5% / +7% the roll has failed.
Cuttable width-
The minimum Cuttable width, measured between needle holes at roll
selvages, is stated on
The Fabric Technical Data, and must be checked at least 3 times on
each roll at:
• Beginning.
• Middle.
• End.
Rolls where cuttable width is less, has failed.
Roll length verification-
Roll length measuring less than 40 m/yds cannot be accepted, unless
agreed.
Roll length stated on the roll ticket must be verified against the
actual roll length
Measured by the fabric checking machine.
•If the deviation is 1% less, length should be double checked on a
cutting table.
If difference remains, the roll has failed.
Splice-
Minimum splice length is 30 m/yds.
Splice location must be noted on the individual roll inspection report.
4 penalty points will be assigned for each splice/join.
Roll is allowed to contain more than 1 splice/join.

Fabric odours –
Roll that emit an unpleasant odour, has failed.
Running Shade Checking-
1. In Inspection table Set one roll fold Meter to meter &
If every Fold not same Shade
2. Same Roll Cut the Difference place & Joint by Sewing
Machine & Check if difference Shade
3. First Middle & Last Not Same Shade in one roll
4.Side to side & Middle if difference Shade

Utilize in Cutting-
a) Block / Group Cutting that means Back Font & Sleeve with
Piping same place
b) Take Leveling wash from dyeing
GSM Checking Procedure-
6. Near of Sewing avoid the Rejection
7. Every Batch one/two rolls Three Stage Check First Middle
& Last Avoid the Variation Mainly Lycra
8. Allowed ±5% but Lycra 7% Minuses & 2% Plus, Avoid the
Consumption Fail
9. Cotton ±5% Allowed but Mainly 5% Minuses, Plus side not
allowed for Consumption issue
10. If you got 7% minuses then check Shrinkage & with iron
otherwise not consider 7% minuses side
11. Full Batch Check Average GSM, if Within tolerance, then
possible to Delivered
12. If Lycra fabrics every batch minimum 2/3 rolls check 3
gsm Cutting Right Middle Left then compare, if move
difference then must correction by Heat Set.
Width Checking Procedure-
1. From Required ±1 inch/ 2CM Consider,
2. Width Check Selves to Selves not Pin to Pin
3. Stenter/ Compact Pin must within ½ Inch/ 1.5 cm more then
not allowed
4. If you got out of tolerance then check Shrinkage
5. GSM & Shrinkage Ok but Width Short/Long then must be
inform to Related department Finishing & Knitting

6. Width Short/ Long must be take decision from Responsible
person Also send mail for documentation
7. If Lycra must be three time check every rolls width First
Middle & Last. If got any difference then must be correction
by heat set
Shrinkage Issue-
1. Standard Acceptable level 5% Minuses & 2% Plus But Customer
wise Separate Requirement So should be follow Customer
Quality Standard
2. Mainly Length 3-4 % Minuses, Width 6-7 % Allowed total 10%
Minuses
3. If not possible to Shrinkage Control within tolerance then
infirm to Related Department
4. If any Batch Delivered without tolerance must be infirm
Cutting department for Pattern Adjustment
Shrinkage Correction-
1. Out of Tolerance Need Re-stenter Or Compactor
2. After Compact if we got Shrinkage Fail Need Re-compaction or
Last Process Tumble Dryer
3. If length More Like this problem must re-stenter
4. If Width More like this problem Tumble Dryer we can solve
GSM Correction-
1. Out of Tolerance must be correction
2. If more than 5% less, need re-compact
3. More than 10% Less need tumble dryer with Steam
4. Re-stenter also we get good result but need Experience
Stenter Operator

Impotent Sample
1. Counter Sample
2. PP Sample (Pre-production)
3. Inline
4. Quotation Sample
5. Photo Sample
6. Development Sample
7. Yarn Test
8. Color Sample
9. First Fit Sample
10. Chemical Test
11. Style Sample
12. Knitting Sample
13. FTD (Fabrics Technical Data) Sample
14. Fashion Show Sample
15. Testing Sample
Fabrics Technical Data (FTD)
1. The Agreement between H&M, Material Supplier & Garment Market
to set standard for fabric quality & performance.
2. Ensures all the risks related to the quality performance of the
fabrics is detected, discussed & solved before placing any order
3. The commitment from material suppliers to ensure that the bulk
parameters declared in the FTD
4. The standard against which H&M, garment market will verify
whether he” got what he paid for”

Accountability of sample Responsible
1. Rick assessment in development stage- aesthetics, technical &
test performance
2. Prepare FTD & coordinate, care instruction & fabric hanger
3. All process data/ Record keeping at least 6 month
4. Circulate the sample fabric information (SOP) to all respective
departments after order confirmation
5. Check the first bulk fabric against the approved sample fabric
accompanied with GPQ to ensure the quality
6. Maintain a database for the FTD & sample status
Activities of Sample Responsible
1. Receive initial request from Merchandiser
2. Analyze technical & quality aspect collaborating with production
units. Do fabric risk assessment
3. Record all the processing data as an SOP such as below
a. USTER Report of the sample, to verify the bulk yarn
performance
b. Knitting parameter- M/c dia, Gauge, Stitch length, Yarn
count, Grey GSM, Grey dia, Greige Swatch of the sample
fabric
c. Dyeing parameters & recipe
d. Finish parameter Like Temperature, Speed, Overfeed, Pin
Set up & Type of Softener also used Percentage, Finish
fabrics swatch of the sample
e. Prepare, communicate & get approval of FTD, Specification,
care instruction & fabrics hanger
f. Maintain a database for the FTD status with ref no

g. Confirm fabric inspection in 4 point system before delivery
to garment
h. Ensure that the sample is in correct quality & color before
delivery to garment
i. Delivery validated inspection & test report to garment
j. After sample approval, share all data processing data
approved standard with production so that the same can be
maintained throughout bulk production
k. Monthly share the sample production follow up report to
H&M material Specialist
Sample Inspection Point-
a) Shade Check with Original/ Lab dip
b) GSM & Width Confirm
c) Uneven
d) Running Shade
e) Lycra Missing
f) Contamination
g) Fly Yarn
h) Hairiness
i) Naps
j) Hand feel

Sample category wise Test Requirement-
a) Shrinkage Ensure
b) Rubbing Dry/ Wet
c) Pilling Test (CVC & PC)
d) Check combination
e) CF to Wash
f) CF to Perspiration
g) CF to Cross staining
h) CF to Color Change
i) CF to Saliva
j) CF to Phenolic Yellowing
FTD (Fabrics Technical Data)-
A. Shade not Necessary
B. Fabrics Quality
C. Hairiness
D. Naps
E. Contamination Fiber/Fly
F. Hand feel
G. Strength Recovery
H. Chemical Test
I. GSM
J. Shrinkage
K. Appearances
L. Pilling Acceptable Ranges (CVC/ PC- 14400 Round Range-3)
M. pH (4-7.5)
N. Brush Fabrics
a. Fluffiness
b. Fiber Migration not allowed
c. Stretch Recovery Good

FTD versus Bulk Production-
1. Knitting & Finishing Must be keep & follow production like FTD
2. Knitting & Finishing Follow FTD Standard
3. Without FTD Approval don’t start Bulk production
4. Stenter Finish time must be follow FTD Standard
5. Before delivery Must be cross check with FTD
GPQ (Guideline for Production & Quality)
GPQ is a team, who are liable to secure the material quality in fabric
department
1. Secure bulk yarn, fabric & elastic
2. Secure material quality in team of H&M expectation/
Requirement
3. Ensure right routines/ methods & standard practices in
production.
4. Be an eye of H&M (act as a buyer in front in front of factory
production personnel)
Accountability of GPQ Responsible
1. Secure bulk yarn, fabric & elastic
2. Implementation of H&M GPQ guideline & increase awareness in
factory
3. Record keeping & communication with H&M
4. Sample to bulk combination
5. Internal training & audit in SOP, routine & method

Responsibility of GPQ
A.Sample Stage
1. Risk assessment with QA, Sample & chemical responsible
2. Coordinate to ensure feasible bulk production
3. Take FTD & required specification hand over from sample
responsible
4. Match Counter Sample (c/s) with approved FTD Hanger
5. Coordinate of lab dip approval
6. Collect sample processing data from sample responsible
7. Check sample fabric color/shade required quality & physical
(test) performance
B. Bulk Stage-
1. In pre-production (PP) meeting share sample SOP with all
production concerns
2. Secure raw materials (Yarn, Fabrics, elastic) meet required
quality before bulk
3. Ensure FTD vs Bulk, sample vs bulk
4. Maintain proper documentations of all production & quality
data, Hardcopy & computer data basis
5. Check 1st
to last dye lot with color standard, approval LD, C/S
FTD hanger & ensure consistency
6. Validate test reports, inspection reports, GSM continuity &
color continuity & all quality parameter “roll to roll” & “Batch
to Batch” prior delivery to cutting
7. Provide a validation certificate based on quality check list
prior delivery
8. Coordinate with RQS team for any major issue

9. Ensure the finished fabrics that don’t meet H&M requirements
& standards will not be delivered to cutting by anyway.
Fabrics Delivery procedure to Garments by GPQ-
1. We received lab test report, inspection report & weight sheet
from fabric inspection section & cross check all the reports
2. If all reports are ok & in the meantime fabric quality is ok
then we prepare a check list
3. We deliver this check list with weight sheet
4. There are two pages in check list, one page will be preserved in
cutting section & other page will be return back in GPQ section
with delivery weight & Signature
5. GPQ section preserves the lab test report, inspection report

Buyer wise Testing Requirement-
Date:11-09-2017
Name of Test H& M Lidl (HK& B.C) Hema Sears GP USPoloTAKKOTEIJEN
Dimentional Stability towash(Shrinkage)
KnitGeneral ±5%,
Rib+waffle+interloc
k L-5% &w +5%/-7%
2% to-5% ±6%
S/J L/w -6%,
Terry L-8%/w-
8%, RibL-6%/w-
±5%
L-5%,
w -5%
±5%
T/D -5%,
L/D
-5%/+2%
Twisting(Spirality)
5%(Trouser8% &
LongSleeve 1cm
5% 5% 5% 3% 5% 5% 5%
GSM ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5%
C/FtoRubbing--Dry 3to4 4 4 4 4 3 to 4 4 3 to 4
C/FtoRubbing--Wet 2to3(CN shipment) 2to3 3 3 3 2 to 3 3 2 to 3
C/FtoWash--ColorStaining 3to4 3 to 4 ≥4 3 to 4 4 3 to 4
C/FtoWash--ColorChange 4 3 to 4 ≥4 4 4 4
C/FtoWash--CrossStaining 4to5 3 to 4 ≥4 4 to 5 4 to 5 4
C/FtoWater-- ColorStaining 3to4 3 to 4 ≥4( Baby item) 4 3
C/FtoWater-- ColorChange 4 3 to 4 ≥4( Baby item) 3 to 4 4
C/FtoWater-- CrossStaining 4to5 3 to 4 ≥4 4 to 5 4 to 5
C/FtoPerspiration(ACID)--ColorStaining 3to4 ≥4 4 3 to 4 3 to 4
C/FtoPerspiration(ACID)--ColorChange 4 ≥4 3 to 4 4 4
C/FtoPerspiration(ACID)--CrossStaining 4to5 ≥4 4 to 5 4 to 5 4
C/FtoPerspiration(ALKALI)--ColorStaining 3to4 ≥4 4 3 to 4 3 to 4
C/FtoPerspiration(ALKALI)--ColorChange 4 ≥4 3 to 4 4 4
C/FtoPerspiration(ALKALI)--CrossStaining 4to5 ≥4 4 to 5 4 to 5 4
C/ctoSaliva-- ColorStaining 4 N/A 4(Size≤36months)4 4 to 5
C/ctoSaliva-- ColorChange 4 N/A 4(Size≤36months)4 4 to 5
C/ctoSaliva-- CrossStaining 4to5 N/A 4(Size≤36months)4 4 to 5
C/FtoPhenolicYellowing 4 N/A 4 to 5 3 to 4 4
C/FtoLight 3to4 3 to 4 ≥4 3to4 4 to 6 3
Pilling 3(blendedfabric) 4(Martindale) ≥3(15000Cycle) 4 3 to 4
Bursting 250kpa(GSM≤200) N/A N/A N/A N/A
FabricpH 4 to7.5 4 to7.5 4 to7.5 5 to 7 4 to7.5
Appearance afterwash Nomajorchange N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C
Dye transferinstorage--Colorstaining 4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 3 to 4 N/A N/A
Dye transferinstorage--ColorChange 4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 3 to 4 N/A N/A
Dye transferinstorage--Crossstaining 4 to 5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 3 to 4 N/A N/A
Note:CN-China,N.M.C-NomajorChange,T/D-Tumble dry,L/D-Line dry,N/A- NotApplicable,HK-Hongkong,B.C-BayCity,kpa- Kilopascale
General 3to4, if
size ≤104itshould
be 5
General 3to4, if
size ≤104itshould
be 5(KidsItem)
Chaity Composite ltd.
Sonargaon,Narayangonj
Buyers Requirments

Buyer wise File Keeping procedure-
H&M Sample Documents File Keeping (Buyer Requirement)
13. FTD
14. Knitting Data
15. Grieg Swatch
16. Dyeing Recipe
17. Program Route
18. Finishing parameter
19. Test Report
20. Inspection Report
21. Uster Report
22. Yarn Test Report
23. Booking Sheet
24. Summary Sheet
H&M Production Documents keep in the File
1. Booking Sheet
2. Order Sheet
3. Rick Assessment Sheet
4. Counter Sample comments copy
5. FTD Sample Comments copy
6. Inspection Report (4 Points)
7. Packing List
8. GPQ Certificate
9. Lab Test Report
10. Summary sheet

Need available in QAD Department:
1. Lab Dip
2. Counter/PP Sample
3. Original Swatch
4. Fabric Technical Data/FTD
5. Booking Sheet
Record Keeping in Department:
1. Shade Continuity
2. Every Rolls Shade Brand
3. Every Rolls GSM Cutting
4. 4 points System
5. Lab Test Report
6. Accessories Match Keeping
Sample Record Keeping:
1. Order Sheet
2. Standard Swatch
3. Shade Card
4. Inspection Report (4 Point System)
5. One Meter Fabrics
6. Accessories Match Keeping
7. Send mail to related person
8. Uster Report

Record Keeping Of GPQ
1. Booking Sheet Collect
2. FTD Collect
3. Counter Collect
4. Order Risk Assessment
5. Inspection Report (4 Point System)
6. Shade Continuity
7. Roll to Roll GSM Board
8. Roll to Roll Shade Board
9. Accessories Joint with Body
10. Test Report
11. GPQ Certificate
12. Packing List
13. Sample Process Record
14. Light Life
Our existing Customer:-
1. H&M
2. Hema
3. Lidl Hong Kong
4. Bay City (Lidl)

Quality Related imported Shortcut
1. QAD- Quality Assurance Department
2. QSR- Quality Standards & Requirement
3. TQM- Total Quality Management
4. SRM- Standard Reference Method
5. ISO- International Organization for Standardization
6. ASTM- American Society of Testing & Materials
7. RQS- Requirement for Quality System
8. QMS- Quality Management System
9. MR- Minimum Manufacturing Requirement
10.AQL- Acceptable Quality Level
11.GSM- Grams per Square Meter
12.QC- Quality Controller
13.MPP- Mini Project Policy
14.NQC- Nominated Quality Controller
15.SOP- Standard Operating Procedure
16.CMC- Color Measurement Clarification
17.PC- Polyester of Cotton
18.CVC- Chief Value of Cotton
19.FTD- Fabrics Technical Data
20.PPE- Personal Protective Equipment
21.H&M- Hannes & Mauritz
22.C&A- Calzado & Aceesorios
23.TDS- Technical Data sheet
24.MSDS- Materials Safety Data sheet
25.LC- Latter of Credit
26.CM- Manufacturing Cost
27.CCL- Chaity Composite Ltd
28.GP- Golden Penney
29.M&S- Marks & Spencer
30.TOD- Time of Delivery
31.RFT- Right First Time

32.RFD- Ready For Delivery
33.PPC- Production Planning Centre
34.PMC- Production Monitoring Centre
35.CSR- Customer Specific Requirement
36.EPZ- Export Processing Zone
37.CTP- Certified third Party
38.CPQ- Configure Price Quote
39.CTX- Corporate Trade Exchange
40.VOC- Volatile Organic Compounds
41.QA- Quality Assurance
42.CAP- Compliance Audit Program
Corrective Action Plan
Common Audit Process
43.IE- Industrial Engineering
44.RMG- Ready Made Garments
45.HR- Human Resources
46.CSR- Compliance Social Reasonability
47.PV- Present Value
48.CAD- Computer Aided Design
49.ACTL- Advisory Committee on Trademarks & Licensing
50.GOTS-Global Organic Textile Standard
51.ETP- Effluent Treatment Plant
52.WTP- Water Treatment Plant
53.RO- Pure it Water/ Reverse Osmosis
54.TBC- To be Confirm
55.OK- Objection Killed
56.AM- Ante Meridiem
57.PM- Post Meridiem
58.PTO- Please Turn Over
59.LOGG- Label of Graded Goods
60.AOP- All Over Print
61.COC- Code of Conducts
62.MIS- Management Information System

63.BGMEA- Bangladesh Garments Manufactures & Exporters
Association's
64.BKMEA- Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactures & Exporters Associations
65.BTMC- Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporations
66.BJMC- Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporations
67.CPI- Course Per Inch
68.WPI- Wales Per Inch
69.BSCI-Business Social Compliance Initiative
70.DA- Disciplinary Action
71.BSCIC- Bangladesh Small and cottage Industrial Corporations
72.OBA- Optical Brighting Agents
73.OCS- Open Costing Sheet
74.COS- Collection of Style
75.BCI- Better Cotton Initiative
76.OC-Organic Cotton

Grey Fabric Quality Section
Inspection Machine SOP
Power Swatch on
Set RPM
Set Light
Ready to Inspection Fabrics
M/c Run- 16/18 RPM
Check by 4 point System
Acceptable Range Not Acceptable range
Grey fabrics Store Temporally Reject Zone
Ready to Batch for Dyed
Permanent Reject Consideration Approved

Grey Inspection:
2.Knitting Production
3.Inspection, 4 Point System
4.More than 28 points Reject
5.Major Problem Discuses with QAD Head
6.Keep Record in GPQ File
Check Point for Grieg Fabrics
1.Order/Buyer wise Quality Check
2.4 point system Check
3.Top light Lux Value 1000+ & Back light No need Lux
Value Just Need Yarn Variation & Hole Check
4.Two person Maximum Two hours continue Check then
others two persons continue
5.Inspection –
A. Yarn Variation/Count Mix
B. Contaminations
C. Knitting Hole
D. Jumping
E. Fly Contra/ Yarn Contra
F. Sinker Mark
G.Needle Mark
H.Set off
I. Lycra Out

Greige Fabrics inspection
a) Two person together inspection continue maximum two hours &
combined take decision.
b) Another two person give to support fabrics for inspection &
keeping for storage which is inspection complete also reject
fabrics keeping Temporally Reject area for finial decision from
Head of Quality.
c) Keep record which person work two hours with sign
d) Machine Speed should be limit 16 to 18 RPM, Means per one
minute 16 to 18 meters inspection
e) Inspection Machine Light Value Minimum 1000+ lux & Expired
time one year or 1300 hours which is 1st valid
f) Light Day light, Need to Register log book for time maintain &
Lux Checking record
g) If any major problem first communicate with online Quality
controller
h) Major Oil Sport check from Light box with UV light
i) Yarn variation/ Patta & Hole, Oil spot check by back light
j) Back light lux value not limitation
k) Inspection 4 point system
l) Keep all record, take sign from Head of Quality

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Knitting Basic Information
5.Warp Knit
6.Weft Knit

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Print (All over):
1. Pigment print
2.Reactive Print
3.Dispatch print
4.Fluent Print
Check Point:
1. Customer Order
2. Design
3. Stricop
4. Repeat Measurement
5. Number of color
6. Shade of color with Approval copy
7. Rubbing fastness
8. Washing fastness
9. Print durability

10.Width & GSM fulfill as
Requirement
11.Shrinkage
12. Phenolic Yellowing (White &
Mélange)
Testing Requirement:
1. Color Fastness
a. Wash - Color Change
- Staining
- Cross Staining
b. Water
c. Rubbing
d. Perspiration- Acid (Ladies)
- Alkali (Boys)
e. Sea Water
f. Sublimation
g. Light Fastness

h. Sun test
i. Saliva
2. Physical test
a. Pilling – Martaindals
- ICI Box
b. Snagging Resistance
c. Stretch Recovery
d. Busting Strength
3. Dimensional Stability
- Washing
- Dry Cleaning
- Dry Steam
a. Shrinkage
b. Spirality
c. Twisting
d. Skewness/ Bowing
4. Kids Item
a. APEO/AP (Alkyl Phenol Ethoxylates)
b. Formaldehyde

c. Phenal
d. pH
5. Chemical test
a. Phenolic yellowing(White &
Mélange)
b. Composition/Fiber Content (CVC, PC, Lycra)
c. Flammability- Fire proof within 30 Second
d. Print Durability
e. Chlorinated
6. Yarn test
a. Single Strength
b. TPI
c. Count
d. Appearance

Multifibre Test Fabrics:
1. Secondary Cellulose Acetate (Dicel)
2. Bleached unmercerized Cotton
3. Nylon 6.6
4. Polyster (Terylene)
5. Acrylic (Courtelle)
6. Wool Worsted
Fabrics Consumption-
1. Body length + Sleeve length + 10 Cm
(Folding, Sleeve & Bottom) x (Chest +
4CM)x2 ÷ 10,000 X GSM
÷1000x12x10%(Wastage = KG/Dozen
(LengthxChestx2÷10,000xGSM÷1000x
12+15%)
2. (Length x Chest x 2 ÷ 1550 X
GSM÷1000x12+15%)

3. Weight X 1550 ÷ Width ÷ GSM X 1000
÷ 36 = Yards
4. Wight ÷ Width ÷ Length X 10,000 =
GSM
5. Length X Width ÷ 10,000 X GSM =
Wight
6. Needle Count= Dia x Gauge x ¶ (3.14)
7. Yarn Count Check= o.oo5905xyarn
length (CM)/ Wight
8. Here,- 1 Meter = 39.37 inch
= 100 CM
= 1000 MM
1 inch = 2.54 CM
1 CM = 10 MM
1 KG = 1000 Grams
= 2.2046 LBS
1550 = 39.37 x 39.37
10,000 = 100 x 100

Care Label Code (Symbol)
1. Washing Symbol-
95® 95®c Temperature at wash
60® 60®c Temperature
Hand wash but not use machine
X Don’t wash
2. Bleaching only in Cold water
CL Bleaching only in cold water
X Don’t Bleach
3. Ironing-
Iron at max 110®c Temperature

Medium hot ironing at Max 150®C
Hot iron at Max 200®c
Not iron able
4. Dry Cleaning-
A Dry Cleaning with any Solvent
P Dry Cleaning only with per chloride
benzene, pur alcohol
F Dry Cleaning with Benzene, Pur
Alcohol
X Don’t dry Clean

5. Drying-
High temperature
Low temperature tumble
Don’t tumble
Spread to dry
Hang to dry without Spin drying
Dry on Clothes hanger

Goal of Quality department:
1. What about delivery, how much
Complain from Garments
a. Shade issue
b. Inspection
c. Width
d. GSM
e. Shrinkage issue
2. FTD submit vs Approved & Reject
3. Sample Submit vs Approved & Reject
4. Not delivery any wrong fabrics
5. Proper information's transfer to
related department

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