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Quality assurance department (sop)

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Textile Quality

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Quality assurance department (sop)

  1. 1. 1 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 1 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd AGM (Quality & Product Development) B Sc in Textile Engineering (ADUST) Cell: +880 1708 454 779 Email: mizan5379@yahoo.com Skype: mizan_mehben
  2. 2. 2 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 2 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Quality Assurance Department
  3. 3. 3 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 3 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Index 1. Definition of Quality 2. Definition of Quality Control (QC) 3. Definition of Quality Inspection (QI) 4. Definition of Quality Assurance (QA) 5. Quality Organogram of Department 6. Jobs Responsibility 7. Four (4) point System 8. Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) 9. Fabrics Delivery Approval Authority procedure 10.Quality Policy 11. Process Flow Chart of Quality 12.Online Inspection 13.Fleece Fabrics Inspection 14.Sueded Fabrics Inspection 15.Print (AOP) Fabrics Inspection 16.Yarn dyed Inspection 17.Table Inspection 18.Inspection Machine 19.Compactor Machine Inspection 20. Hand folding 21.Grey Fabrics Inspection 22. Knitting Online Inspection 23. Shade Check Procedure 24. Running Shade check 25. GSM Checking Procedure 26. Shrinkage Correction 27. GSM Correction 28. Sample Procedure 29. Buyer wise Testing Requirement 30. Buyer wise File Keeping procedure 31.Quality Related Shortcut
  4. 4. 4 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 4 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Quality Assurance Department (`ª‡e¨i ¸bv¸Y wbð©Z Kiv) ‡Kvqv‡jwU: ‡Kvb `ª‡e¨i KZ ¸‡jv ˆewkó¨ ev AvPiY hvnv †fv³v‡`i D‡Ïk¨ ev Pvwn`v c~i‡Y mÿg| ‡Kvqv‡jwU ‡KvȪj: ‡Kvb m~-m„•Lj e¨e¯’v hvnv †Kvb Kvw•LZ `ªe¨w` Drcv`‡b mÿg| ‡Kvqv‡jwU cwiÿvKiY: ‡Kvb m~-m„•Lj e¨e¯’vi gva¨‡g `ª‡e¨i ¸bv¸Y cwiÿv Kiv, hvnv †fv³vi Pvwn`v c~i‡Y mnZv Ki‡e| ‡Kvqv‡jwU wbð©Z Kiv: cÖwµqv MZ fv‡e `ª‡e¨i ¸bv¸Y wbð©Z Kiv| Quality Assurance: Quality Assurance is a process focused concept, where the processes are put in place to ensure the correct steps are done in the correct way. If the correct processes are in place there is some assurance that the actual results will turn out as expected. Quality Control: Quality Control is a product focused concept, where checking of the actual results are done to ensure that things are as expected. If the correct controls are in place you can know for certain that the actual results have been achieved because the actual results have been checked Quality Inspection: Graded the quality standard by inspection.
  5. 5. 5 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 5 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Quality Organogram of Department - AGM (Admin) GM (Fabrics) Director Data Entry-1 ApproveredAsst Manager (QAD) AGM (Qality & Product Development) Executive-3, Knitting, Dyeing, Finishing Inspector-4 Director Inspector (GSM Cutting & Board)-5 Inspector (Machine)-4 Inspector (Dust remover)-2 Inspector (Hand Folding)-5 Inspector (Rib Collar & Cuff)-4 Inspector (Hold & Reject Check)-2 Inspector (Yarn Dyed & Subcontact)-1 (G) Inspector (Report & Delivery Update)-2 Executive Excutive/Incharge-1 Supervisor-2 Inspector-20, M/c-5 Sr Executive- G Executive (Floor)-G Executive (Shade)-3 Incharge-3 Supervisor-2 H&M (GPQ) R&DAsst Manager (others) Lidl (GPQ) Grey Fabrics InspectionHema, Bay City & Others Sr Executive Sr Executive Executive (Shade) Executive (Sample) Sr Inspector (Stenter)-8 Sr Inspector/Inspector (Compact)-10 Inspector (teble Runn Shade Check)-4 Inspector (Documents)-3 Data Entry Executive (Elastic) Executive (Grey) Sr Executive Managing Director AGM Company Profile. Quality Assurance Department Chaity Composite Ltd.
  6. 6. 6 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 6 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Job Responsibility: Md Mizanur Rahman- AGM (Quality & Product Development) 1. Planning & Monitoring of Production Target. 2. Ensure that the Quality Standard is being met by Forecasting & reviewing the result. 3. Develop Discipline, by implementing the Rules &Regulation in Department. 4. Ensure acceptable Quality level (AQL) in textile manner. 5. Give a continuous guidance to the Executive, along with others for target fabric specification. 6. Supervision constantly to Grey & Final QC. 7. Give the full support the Research & Development Department. 8. Make a continuous study of work improvement & give report to the higher authority. 9. Response & act in the customer complain & query. 10. Ensure that all safety followed by the team. 11. Continuously study the Cost saving of the Department. 12. Enthusiastic to wastage utilization. 13. Optimize Manpower Utilization. 14. Worker Turnover & Absenteeism control as per Plan. 15. Skill Development in the Floor. 16. Ensure that all Lab test Report (Physical) are recorded. 17. Follow the concept of Top Management. 18. Regularly held a meeting to all people once in a week/ Time to time. 19. Co-ordination with all departments all quality parameter inform time to time all department. 20. Check the hold fabric & give decision quickly.
  7. 7. 7 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 7 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Mr Monir Hossain- Asst Manager (QAD)- 1. Planning & Monitoring of Delivery Target. 2. All Buyer fabrics inspection Without H&M 3. Fulfill the buyer wise quality requirement 4. Ensure the delivery target with Quality 5. Hold Fabric Take decision immediately 6. Inline fabrics ensure the Quality Requirement 7. Ensure the 4 point system reporting 8. Grey fabric inspection & give decision 9. Ensure the good house keeping 10. Manpower utilize 11.Recruited Monowar Hossain Nahid- Senior Executive (GPQ- H&M)- Sample 1. Mainly H&M GPQ Responsible 2. All sample check 3. Hold (H&M) Fabric inspection & Take decision immediately 4. FTD Approval & Ensure Product Match with FTD 5. Audit Related all points need to be check & Confirm available as Buyer Requirement 6. Ensure the testing requirement 7. Yarn test & Uster Report 8. Support to PP Sample 9. FTD Approval 10. Resource & Development 11.On time delivery with Quality 12. Keep record Sample inspection & Yarn test 13. Ensure the quality Standard which is delivered
  8. 8. 8 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 8 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd SM Younus Ali Ruble – Senior Executive (Shade & Lidl Responsible) 1. Confirm the Shade as buyer concept 2. GPQ (Lidl HK) Responsible 3. Keep record Lidl (HK) order summary 4. Approval taken from Buyer 5. Within short time shade confirm & Feedback to production 6. All Lab dip take from Lab Then Confirm with Related Merchandiser 7. Shade not ok keep record 8. Keep all approval Swatch 9. Ensure the PP Sample (Hema) Md. Shafiqul Islam- Executive (Floor Inspection)- 1. Fulfill the delivery target with quality 2. Requirement wise delivery width, gsm shrinkage, Spirality & All Accessories (Rib, Collar & Cuff, Back neck tap) 3. Check process loss 4. All testing confirm then delivered 5. Return for reprocess Dyeing & Finish, Keep Record & Update after Reprocess 6. Keep Record Shrinkage & Actual GSM, Width, Process Loss in Delivery Sheet 7. Ensure the good house keeping Jahirul: Data Entry Operators- 1. Make Reports- inspection, Compact, Hand folding, Inspection M/c 2. Handover Record 3. Reprocess (Dyeing & Finishing) 4. Return to Dyeing & Finishing 5. Order Summary 6. Reject Department Wise 7. Update Manpower List 8. Month wise Manpower Left & Recruit List
  9. 9. 9 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 9 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Md Anower Hossain- Executive (H&M GPQ) 1. Ensure Audit Related Keep all documents 2. Uster Yarn Report 3. Yarn test Report 4. MR Ensure the Fulfil Buyer Requirement 5. Order Sheet 6. Shade Continuity Card 7. GSM Record 8. Inspection Report 9. Fabrics delivered with test & Necessary documents 10. Handle the H&M Buyer Ahasan Kobir Sumon- GPQ-H&M (Sample) 1. All H&M Sample 2. Yarn test 3. Uster Report 4. FTD approval Ensure 5. Keep record Sample inspection & Yarn test 6. Keep File (Knitting, Dyeing & Finishing) Shohanur Rahman- GPQ- Product Development 1. 1st Batch Follow up 2. Yarn test 3. Uster Report Collect 4. Floor monitoring GSM & Width 5. Shrinkage Follow up
  10. 10. 10 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 10 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Definition of 4 Point: ‡Kvb wbw`©ó †d«we· Gi ΃wU ¸‡jv †K Bw‡Z cwigvc K‡i Pvi wU av‡c wef³ K‡i †kÖbx‡Z iæcvšÍi Kiv †K eySvq | Procedure of Four Point System: 1. Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machineries. 2. These machineries are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table. 3. Inspection machineries are either power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric over the inspection table. 4. The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form. 5. Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric (meter/yard). Fabric defects point values based on the following: Length of defect in Fabric Points allotted Up to 3 inch 1 Over 3 inch up to 6 inch 2 Over 6 inch up to 9 inch 3 Over 9 inch 4 Holes and Opening 1 or less 2 Over 1 inch 4
  11. 11. 11 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 11 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Defects and Penalty points Defect Length Points Sticker Colour Less then3” 1 White 3”-6” 2 Green 6”-9” 3 Yellow Over 9” 4 Red Hole Points Sticker Color Less or equal to 2.5cm/1” 2 Green Larger than 2.5cm/1” 4 Red Example: Fabric width 1m 5cm 10cm 2. Total points awarded for second m/yd is 1. 1. Total points awarded for first m/yd is 4. 2+4 points=6 points. “Regardless of length/size or number of Defects, no more than 4 penalty points may Be assigned on any linear meter/yard”. 3. Total points awarded for third m/yd is 3. 4. Total points awarded for fourth m/yd is 4. 4+4 points=8 points. “Regardless of length/size or number of Defects, no more than 4 penalty points may be assigned on any linear meter/yard”. 15cm 1m/yd 4cm hole 25cm 1m/yd 1m/yd 1m/yd
  12. 12. 12 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 12 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Calculations and Result: Total defect points per 100 yard square are calculated. If fabric rolls contains less than 40 points per 100 yard square are considered “first” quality and as an Acceptance criteria. If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards square are considered “second”. Example: A fabric roll 130 yard long and 45 inch wide contains the following defects: - 6 defects up to 3 inch- ................................... 6 X 1 = 6 points 5 defects over 3 inch but less 6 inch- ............. 5 X 2 = 10 points 2 defects over 6 inch but less 9 inch- ..............3 X 2 = 6 points 1 defects over 9 inch- .................................... 1 X 4 = 4 points 1 hole over 1 inch dimensions- ....................... 1 X 4 = 4 points ……………………………………………………………………………………… Total defect points................................................= 30 points Therefore, Points per 100 yard square = Total points scored in roll X 36 inch ……………………………………………………………… X 100 Fabric width/inches X Total length yard inspected 30 X 36 = ……………………… X 100 130 X 45 = 18.4 (Defect points per 100 yard square.) So, the roll is accepted.
  13. 13. 13 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 13 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Allowable Maximum Points 1. 2. 3. 4. Accepted Average & Maximum: Fabrics Type Avg/yards Max/yards Avg/Meter Max/Meter Single Jersey 15 20 17 22 Double Jersey 18 24 20 26 Interlock 22 28 24 31
  14. 14. 14 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 14 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Procedure of Delivery (sop) 1. Without Test Result Please don’t Delivery Any Quantity of Fabrics. 2. Without Rib/Single Jersey/ Back neck tap, not delivery. 3. Any Measurable part, Like Collar & Cuff, Stripe Yarn dyed Fabrics should be check as buyer requirement. 4. Inline Fabrics All test should be check & Shrinkage CHECK from 3-4 rolls & Ensure Acceptable tolerance, 5. Width ± 1”, More than need to Approval from Related Person. Also infirm to cutting department. 6. Before Delivery must be Re-check by Shift In-charge, Width, GSM, Shrinkage delivery report with Batch information. 7. 1st Batch Shade check & crosses check for confirmation. 8. All Approved shade must be keeping before dyeing from related Merchandiser 9. All shade check two person avoid the wrong decision. (Keep sign) 10. 1st Batch check with Booking All information, like width, GSM, Accessories & Shade Reference. 11. Every day at 1st All delivered batches should be showing to Responsible person & take Sign 12. Unacceptable Issue not delivery. We have committed good quality fabrics delivery which is customer Requirement
  15. 15. 15 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 15 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Fabrics Delivery Approval Authority: 1. Check Buyer Requirement, Width, GSM, Shade match, Shrinkage, Accessories ( Rib, Collar & Cuff, Piping, Back neck tap with Measurement)- Confirm from Online In-charge & Executive (Shade) 2. Test Result (Shrinkage, Twist, Rubbing, Pilling & Wash Fastness)- confirm from Physical Lab Manager 3. Fulfil the Buyer Requirement then possible to Delivered i. GSM- 5-7% Low from Required, plus side max 2% average below from requirement ii. Shrinkage L-4% W-7% Spirality 5% iii. Width ±1 inch iv. Test as Buyer Required v. Angle 5% from width wise vi. Bowing 5% from width wise 4. Approved by any problems fabrics– i. GSM, Width & Shrinkage (Cotton) - Knitting GM & Manager, Finishing AGM & Manager with Sign. ii. GSM, Width & Shrinkage (Lycra)- Finishing AGM & Manager with Sign iii. Shade, Uneven, Hairiness- AGM(Dyeing) with sign iv. Test (Color Fastness, Pilling, Rubbing)- AGM(Dyeing), also Physical Lab Manager with sign 5. Over all if take Responsibility Related Merchandiser then we can delivered any kind of problems fabrics but need to take sign. 6. Any person given the approval then we send mail to related person in the department 7. Without proper inspection not a single kg fabrics delivered
  16. 16. 16 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 16 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Quality Policy (¸bMZ gvb bxwZ) Vision: - To Achieve Continues improvement in garments product quality fabrics & attain sustainability through united effort. jÿ¨: HK¨e× cª‡Póvi gva¨‡g ‡cvkv‡Ki ¸bMZ gvb µgvMZ Dbœqb I `xN© ¯’vqxZ ¡ AR©b Kiv| Mission: - To understand the buyers demand & Fulfil their requirement by producing better quality Fabrics. D‡Ïk¨: †µZvi Pvwn`v eySv Ges DbœZ gv‡bi †cvkvK ˆZixi gva¨‡g Zvnv‡`i Pvwn`v c~iY Kiv| Policy:- 1. To build up a long lasting better Relationship with buyer by fulfilling the their demands ‡µZvi Pvwn`v c~i‡Yi gva¨‡g `xN©¯’vqx m~m¤úK© ˆZix Kiv 2. To improve employees skills through training & Evaluate/ Appreciate their work cÖwkÿ‡Yi gva¨‡g Kgx©‡`i `ÿZv e„w× Kiv Ges Kv‡Ri g~j¨vqb Kiv| 3. To maintain a Cleaner workstations & to build up self-Motivated & Responsible work force. Kg©¯’‡ji cwi‡ek cwi”Qbœ ivLv I m¦cÖ‡Yvw`Z `vwqZ¡kxj Rbkw³ ˆZix Kiv|
  17. 17. 17 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 17 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd OK OK Non Conformed Process Flow Chart of Fabric Quality Re-process Dyeing Stenter M/c Shade uneven Not OK Spot, Hairiness, Hand feel Lab Test Shrinkage, Fastness & Others Compacting Dia & GSM Not OK Check Fabrics Inspection 4 point System Shade Continuity Finish Fabric Store
  18. 18. 18 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 18 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Impact of Higher Quality Control Less Wastage Less Re work Few Reject Lower Cost Less Backlog High Productivity Few Complaints Few Returns Quality Inspection Remove of Fault Indicate of Fault Inform must be concern person Cause Indicate of Fault Inspection
  19. 19. 19 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 19 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Standard Operation Procedure Inspection Area- 1. Yarn Inspection 2. Grey Fabrics Inspection 3. Dyed Yarn Inspection 4. Printed Fabrics Inspection 5. After Dyeing Fabrics Inspection Online Inspection Point a) Shade Give to Light Box for Approved b) Hand feel & Hairiness Check with FTD c) 10% Rolls check table, Running Shade/Uneven d) Naps, Hole, Patta Check, Line/Sinker Mark e) Width & GSM confirm with Requirement f) Within ½ inch pin in Selvage more than infirm to Finishing g) Give to one meter fabrics Laboratory for Test, Shrinkage/Fastness h) Accessories available or not (Rib, Collar & Cuff) i) Check Measurement if Required Like Stripe Fabrics j) Information should be write down in Batch Card Clearly & Online inspection Loge book k) If any unacceptable must be infirm to Shift In- charge
  20. 20. 20 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 20 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Yarn Dyed Inspection:- 1. Color Bleeding 2. Measurement on Stripe 3. Any fly contaminations 4. Yarn Contaminations 5. Bowing 6. Angle/ Slanted 7. Twisted/ Spirality 8. Shrinkage Fabrics Inspection- 1. Shade Check 2. Hairiness 3. Naps 4. Bowing/Slanted 5. Shrinkage 6. Twist/Spirality 7. Sinker/ Line Mark 8. Uneven Shade 9. Running Shade 10. GSM/ Width Print Fabrics Inspection: 1. Check with Stranded Swatch 2. Print Durability 3. Color Bleeding 4. Before & After Check any Change 5. After Finishing print any Change 6. Shrinkage
  21. 21. 21 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 21 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Fleece Fabric Inspection 1. Shade Check 2. Before & After Shade Check what about Change 3. Chemical Test 4. Hairiness 5. Re-tension / Stitch Recovery 6. Brush Fiber Migrations 7. Naps 8. Sinker/ Line Mark 9. GSM/ Width Sueded Fabrics Inspection: 1. Shade Check 2. Before & After Shade Check what about Change 3. Line/ Sinker Mark 4. Naps 5. Hairiness 6. Hole before or After (Pin/ Sueded) Inspection Machine Point 1. First Check online information 2. Two person Maximum two hours continue inspection 3. Note in Register loge book which person inspection with sign 4. 4 point system follows 5. Machine Speed Light Color 16/18 & dark Color 18/20 RPM 6. Lux value 1000+ & Light Expired time one year or 1300 hours which is 1st valid
  22. 22. 22 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 22 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Table Inspection Point 1. Two person together Inspection 2. Two person Maximum two hours continue inspection 3. Running Shade/ Uneven/ Hairiness 4. Hold Fabrics & Take Quick decision 5. Follow 4 point System 6. Result OK/ Reject 7. Lux value 1000+ & Light Expired time one year or 1300 hours which is 1st valid Compactor M/c Inspection Point 1. Two person together Inspection 2. Two person Maximum two hours continue inspection 3. Machine Speed 16/18 RPM 4. Width & GSM check 5. Hole, Naps, Hairiness, Crease Mark, Compaction Mark, Any spot, Patta, Lycra Missing/Out, Yarn/Fly Contra, Width Variation, Pin out, Jumping, Recovery, Slanted, Bowing, 6. If any measurement like Stripe 7. Within ½ inch pin in Selvage more than infirm to Finishing 8. Roll to Roll Shade & GSM cut 9. Inspection as 4 point System 10. Maintain Register Loge book
  23. 23. 23 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 23 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Compact & Inspection M/c before starting Ensure the below issue- 1. Shade 2. Running shade 3. Dia ± 4. GSM ± 5. Enzyme Dust 6. Hairiness 7. Shrinkage 8. Spirality 9. Bowing 10. Angle 11.Any Measurable issue, Stripe & print 12. Accessories available with match (Rib, Collar & Cuff) Any problem first take decision then started m/c otherwise hold
  24. 24. 24 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 24 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Hand folding- Confirming Quality Standard then can Folding- a) Shade Confirm b) Running Shade c) Dia Confirm ±1 inch d) GSM Check ±5% e) Enzyme Dust f) Hairiness g) Joint to Joint Roll h) Shrinkage Confirm i) Spirality Confirm j) Bowing Check k) Angle / Slanted l) Measurable point like Yarn dyed Stripe Check m) Rib & Body Match n) Accessories available with Match or not Any unaccepted problems first take decision then packet or Compact otherwise hold.
  25. 25. 25 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 25 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Knitting Online QC 1. Batch Card Check a) Yarn lot b) Yarn Count c) Buyer Name d) Stitch Length Cross Check e) GSM Check f) Yarn Brand Check- Combed/Carded 2. Fabric Quality a) Loop b) Needle Brocken/ Mark c) Sinker Mark d) Count/Lot Mix e) Oil Sport/ Mark f) Set off g) Contra- Fly/Yarn h) Lycra Out Out of 4 point System 1. Running Shade 2. Patta, Line Mark 3. Lycra Missing 4. Hairiness 5. Naps 6. Uneven 7. GSM issue 8. Width short/ Long 9. Brush Problem Only need take decision Major or minor
  26. 26. 26 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 26 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Bowing/Skewing: Bowing is the measurement of the bowing arc at the highest point of a line at right angles Between the two selvages. A Bow depth Fabric width Skewing/Twisting: Skewing/Twisting is the measurement of the highest point between a weft thread/row and a line at right angles between the two selvages/folds. Skew depth -A Fabric width Tolerance Calculation ____________ x 100 = Cuttable width A Max % Solid colours/Prints Stripes/Checks Exception: Skewing are characteristics for woven twill/satin constructions and for single jersey. The skewing tolerance must therefore be agreed on each order separately, and stated on the “Fabric Technical Data”. The H&M garment supplier must first check twisting and eventual Distortion on garment after: •Eventual garment treatment. •Washing according to care instruction. In case of Inconsistent skewing/twisting in-between inspected rolls the inspection has failed. Rolls exceeding these tolerances have failed. Fabric Types Max % of fabric width Woven Jersey 3% 5% 2% 4%
  27. 27. 27 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 27 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Shade Check in Light Box 1. Two person together shade Check Avoid the Wrong Decision. Because Two Person not Same Measurable Power, So combined take decision. 2. with Three Light Shade Check 3. Make Family Shade A&B 4. Light D65, TL 83, A-10 5. 1 st Batch Shade check with Woven Standard & Counter Sample 6. Next Batch Check Batch to Batch with Counter 7. White & Grey Mélange Must be Check with UV Light 8. Metameric Check in A-10 Home Light 9. Shade Check in 45 degree Angle Light Sourcing (Knit) 1. Shop Light (Primary ) -TL83 Lax Value 1000 to more 2. Day Light (Secondary)- D65 Lax Value 1000 to More 3. Home Light - A-10 Lax Value 800 to More 4. Morning Sun Light – Ultra Violet (UV) Light Sourcing (Under Wear) 1. Shop Light (Primary ) - TL83 Lax Value 1000 to more/18w 2. Home Light (Secondary) -A-10 Lax Value 800 to More/18w 3. Day Light - D65 Lax Value 1000 to More/40w 4. Morning Sun Light – Ultra Violet (UV)/18w
  28. 28. 28 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 28 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Example of H&M Shade Record that may be used. For heavy knit the yarn from different dye lots should be knitted into swatches, in order to sort the different shades into families prior to knitting, recorded with order number, date, dye lot and family number, weight, and planned country. Full Width Cutting At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric inspection, cut a 30 cm/6” full width cutting. The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the light box against: o Colour Standard o Approved fabric o Fabric Technical Data Shade deviation within a roll must be checked by folding or sewing: o Side to side o Side-centre-side o Beginning-end Colour Shade D65 TL83 A To App. fabric: Ok Ok Ok Shade: A Family: A, E, D Roll No: 1-30, 91-150 Total length: 15000m Planned country: SE, DE, CN
  29. 29. 29 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 29 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd COLOUR EVALUATION – GENERAL Colours are evaluated visually in light box with the support of instrumental evaluation. General Colour Requirements o Standard is standard throughout the production o Colours must be matched to standard in H&M illuminants o Samples must not show metamerism against standard. o Optical Brightening Agents (OBA) are only accepted in white (10-100, 10,201, 10- 213) and neon colours o Accessories/trim should be evaluated using the same guidelines, against standard considering approved shell fabric o Colours must meet H&M tolerances visually and instrumentally Standard is Standard Colours are evaluated against standard throughout the production. Previously bulk fabric was evaluated against approved l/d. The effect of this was that the colour difference between two orders could be very big, and very obvious to our customers, see sketch below. NOT OK In order to get an acceptable colour match between products, the standard has to be kept as standard throughout the production chain. Thus standard to lab dip DE<1.0, and standard to production (dye lot) DE<1.0. Always keep the standard as the standard.
  30. 30. 30 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 30 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Additions for COS, & Other Stories and Weekday Collection  Colour evaluation requires a tolerance of DE<1.0 within the same shade family.  We do not accept shades from opposite shade family within one order quantity.  We do not accept opposite shade families within one order to be packed country wise.  It is of high importance that shades that already are within the DE<1.0 tolerance also have a close visual match to the standard. Always keep the standard as the standard. All shades must be within the tolerance of DE<1.0, and within the same shade family.
  31. 31. 31 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 31 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd 0.7-1.0 Yellow Blue Worm Green Red 0-0.69 DE˂ 1.0 Blue Red Blue Green Yellow Green Yellow Red Additive color mixing Subtractive color mixing
  32. 32. 32 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 32 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
  33. 33. 33 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 33 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Munsell Test: (‡Pvu‡Li Kvjvi †Uvb cix¶v)
  34. 34. 34 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 34 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd wb‡qvg: 1. ‡gvU 80 wU evUb 04 wU av‡c m¤ú~b© Ki‡Z n‡e 2. cÖwZwU av‡ci mgq _vK‡e 02 wgwbU 3. cÖwZwU evUb fz‡ji R‡b¨ 04 bv¤^vi KvUv hv‡e 4. me©”Q 04 wU fyj Kvwi †Kvb †m‡Wi GKK wm×všÍ wb‡Z cvi‡e bv, `yRb wg‡j wm×všÍ wb‡Z n‡e| 5. cÖ‡Z¨K e¨w³ 6gvm ci ci AvB †Uó Ki‡Z n‡e| 6. †Kvqv‡jwU‡Z Kg©iZ cÖ‡Z¨K e¨w³i AvB †Uó eva¨Zv g~jK Ges mvwU©wd‡KU wb‡Z n‡e|
  35. 35. 35 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 35 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
  36. 36. 36 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 36 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Colour continuity record: Colour and shades must be controlled by maintaining colour continuity records. Dye lot to dye lot, within a dye lot and within a roll must be checked. Records must be Available for H&M and kept for at least 6 month. The swatches must be a minimum of 4x10 cm and be evaluated visually in a light box. A close critical match to colour standard and approved fabric must be achieved in; TL83, D65 and display no dramatic difference in colour appearance in A-light (tungsten). For more detailed information see Supplier Colour Guide Book. For the use of ISO 105-A02: 1993 Grey scale for assessing change in colour there should not Be a greater difference than 4-5 between any parts within a dye lot and roll. Full width cutting: At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric inspection, cut a 30 cm/6” full Width cutting. The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the light box against: •Colour Standard •Approved fabric •Fabric Technical Data Shade deviation within a roll must be checked by folding or sewing: •Side to side •Side-centre-side •Beginning-end
  37. 37. 37 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 37 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd If difference is more then 4-5 on the grey scale between any parts, the H&M local office must be contacted. • Check weight on minimum 10% of the rolls chosen for inspection. •Weigh a 100 cm² cutting; convert the weight into m²/yd². •Weight should correspond to weight stated on Fabric Technical Data. If the deviation is more than -5% / +7% the roll has failed. Cuttable width- The minimum Cuttable width, measured between needle holes at roll selvages, is stated on The Fabric Technical Data, and must be checked at least 3 times on each roll at: • Beginning. • Middle. • End. Rolls where cuttable width is less, has failed. Roll length verification- Roll length measuring less than 40 m/yds cannot be accepted, unless agreed. Roll length stated on the roll ticket must be verified against the actual roll length Measured by the fabric checking machine. •If the deviation is 1% less, length should be double checked on a cutting table. If difference remains, the roll has failed. Splice- Minimum splice length is 30 m/yds. Splice location must be noted on the individual roll inspection report. 4 penalty points will be assigned for each splice/join. Roll is allowed to contain more than 1 splice/join.
  38. 38. 38 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 38 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Fabric odours – Roll that emit an unpleasant odour, has failed. Running Shade Checking- 1. In Inspection table Set one roll fold Meter to meter & If every Fold not same Shade 2. Same Roll Cut the Difference place & Joint by Sewing Machine & Check if difference Shade 3. First Middle & Last Not Same Shade in one roll 4.Side to side & Middle if difference Shade
  39. 39. 39 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 39 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Utilize in Cutting- a) Block / Group Cutting that means Back Font & Sleeve with Piping same place b) Take Leveling wash from dyeing GSM Checking Procedure- 6. Near of Sewing avoid the Rejection 7. Every Batch one/two rolls Three Stage Check First Middle & Last Avoid the Variation Mainly Lycra 8. Allowed ±5% but Lycra 7% Minuses & 2% Plus, Avoid the Consumption Fail 9. Cotton ±5% Allowed but Mainly 5% Minuses, Plus side not allowed for Consumption issue 10. If you got 7% minuses then check Shrinkage & with iron otherwise not consider 7% minuses side 11. Full Batch Check Average GSM, if Within tolerance, then possible to Delivered 12. If Lycra fabrics every batch minimum 2/3 rolls check 3 gsm Cutting Right Middle Left then compare, if move difference then must correction by Heat Set. Width Checking Procedure- 1. From Required ±1 inch/ 2CM Consider, 2. Width Check Selves to Selves not Pin to Pin 3. Stenter/ Compact Pin must within ½ Inch/ 1.5 cm more then not allowed 4. If you got out of tolerance then check Shrinkage 5. GSM & Shrinkage Ok but Width Short/Long then must be inform to Related department Finishing & Knitting
  40. 40. 40 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 40 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd 6. Width Short/ Long must be take decision from Responsible person Also send mail for documentation 7. If Lycra must be three time check every rolls width First Middle & Last. If got any difference then must be correction by heat set Shrinkage Issue- 1. Standard Acceptable level 5% Minuses & 2% Plus But Customer wise Separate Requirement So should be follow Customer Quality Standard 2. Mainly Length 3-4 % Minuses, Width 6-7 % Allowed total 10% Minuses 3. If not possible to Shrinkage Control within tolerance then infirm to Related Department 4. If any Batch Delivered without tolerance must be infirm Cutting department for Pattern Adjustment Shrinkage Correction- 1. Out of Tolerance Need Re-stenter Or Compactor 2. After Compact if we got Shrinkage Fail Need Re-compaction or Last Process Tumble Dryer 3. If length More Like this problem must re-stenter 4. If Width More like this problem Tumble Dryer we can solve GSM Correction- 1. Out of Tolerance must be correction 2. If more than 5% less, need re-compact 3. More than 10% Less need tumble dryer with Steam 4. Re-stenter also we get good result but need Experience Stenter Operator
  41. 41. 41 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 41 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Impotent Sample 1. Counter Sample 2. PP Sample (Pre-production) 3. Inline 4. Quotation Sample 5. Photo Sample 6. Development Sample 7. Yarn Test 8. Color Sample 9. First Fit Sample 10. Chemical Test 11. Style Sample 12. Knitting Sample 13. FTD (Fabrics Technical Data) Sample 14. Fashion Show Sample 15. Testing Sample Fabrics Technical Data (FTD) 1. The Agreement between H&M, Material Supplier & Garment Market to set standard for fabric quality & performance. 2. Ensures all the risks related to the quality performance of the fabrics is detected, discussed & solved before placing any order 3. The commitment from material suppliers to ensure that the bulk parameters declared in the FTD 4. The standard against which H&M, garment market will verify whether he” got what he paid for”
  42. 42. 42 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 42 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Accountability of sample Responsible 1. Rick assessment in development stage- aesthetics, technical & test performance 2. Prepare FTD & coordinate, care instruction & fabric hanger 3. All process data/ Record keeping at least 6 month 4. Circulate the sample fabric information (SOP) to all respective departments after order confirmation 5. Check the first bulk fabric against the approved sample fabric accompanied with GPQ to ensure the quality 6. Maintain a database for the FTD & sample status Activities of Sample Responsible 1. Receive initial request from Merchandiser 2. Analyze technical & quality aspect collaborating with production units. Do fabric risk assessment 3. Record all the processing data as an SOP such as below a. USTER Report of the sample, to verify the bulk yarn performance b. Knitting parameter- M/c dia, Gauge, Stitch length, Yarn count, Grey GSM, Grey dia, Greige Swatch of the sample fabric c. Dyeing parameters & recipe d. Finish parameter Like Temperature, Speed, Overfeed, Pin Set up & Type of Softener also used Percentage, Finish fabrics swatch of the sample e. Prepare, communicate & get approval of FTD, Specification, care instruction & fabrics hanger f. Maintain a database for the FTD status with ref no
  43. 43. 43 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 43 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd g. Confirm fabric inspection in 4 point system before delivery to garment h. Ensure that the sample is in correct quality & color before delivery to garment i. Delivery validated inspection & test report to garment j. After sample approval, share all data processing data approved standard with production so that the same can be maintained throughout bulk production k. Monthly share the sample production follow up report to H&M material Specialist Sample Inspection Point- a) Shade Check with Original/ Lab dip b) GSM & Width Confirm c) Uneven d) Running Shade e) Lycra Missing f) Contamination g) Fly Yarn h) Hairiness i) Naps j) Hand feel
  44. 44. 44 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 44 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Sample category wise Test Requirement- a) Shrinkage Ensure b) Rubbing Dry/ Wet c) Pilling Test (CVC & PC) d) Check combination e) CF to Wash f) CF to Perspiration g) CF to Cross staining h) CF to Color Change i) CF to Saliva j) CF to Phenolic Yellowing FTD (Fabrics Technical Data)- A. Shade not Necessary B. Fabrics Quality C. Hairiness D. Naps E. Contamination Fiber/Fly F. Hand feel G. Strength Recovery H. Chemical Test I. GSM J. Shrinkage K. Appearances L. Pilling Acceptable Ranges (CVC/ PC- 14400 Round Range-3) M. pH (4-7.5) N. Brush Fabrics a. Fluffiness b. Fiber Migration not allowed c. Stretch Recovery Good
  45. 45. 45 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 45 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd FTD versus Bulk Production- 1. Knitting & Finishing Must be keep & follow production like FTD 2. Knitting & Finishing Follow FTD Standard 3. Without FTD Approval don’t start Bulk production 4. Stenter Finish time must be follow FTD Standard 5. Before delivery Must be cross check with FTD GPQ (Guideline for Production & Quality) GPQ is a team, who are liable to secure the material quality in fabric department 1. Secure bulk yarn, fabric & elastic 2. Secure material quality in team of H&M expectation/ Requirement 3. Ensure right routines/ methods & standard practices in production. 4. Be an eye of H&M (act as a buyer in front in front of factory production personnel) Accountability of GPQ Responsible 1. Secure bulk yarn, fabric & elastic 2. Implementation of H&M GPQ guideline & increase awareness in factory 3. Record keeping & communication with H&M 4. Sample to bulk combination 5. Internal training & audit in SOP, routine & method
  46. 46. 46 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 46 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Responsibility of GPQ A.Sample Stage 1. Risk assessment with QA, Sample & chemical responsible 2. Coordinate to ensure feasible bulk production 3. Take FTD & required specification hand over from sample responsible 4. Match Counter Sample (c/s) with approved FTD Hanger 5. Coordinate of lab dip approval 6. Collect sample processing data from sample responsible 7. Check sample fabric color/shade required quality & physical (test) performance B. Bulk Stage- 1. In pre-production (PP) meeting share sample SOP with all production concerns 2. Secure raw materials (Yarn, Fabrics, elastic) meet required quality before bulk 3. Ensure FTD vs Bulk, sample vs bulk 4. Maintain proper documentations of all production & quality data, Hardcopy & computer data basis 5. Check 1st to last dye lot with color standard, approval LD, C/S FTD hanger & ensure consistency 6. Validate test reports, inspection reports, GSM continuity & color continuity & all quality parameter “roll to roll” & “Batch to Batch” prior delivery to cutting 7. Provide a validation certificate based on quality check list prior delivery 8. Coordinate with RQS team for any major issue
  47. 47. 47 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 47 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd 9. Ensure the finished fabrics that don’t meet H&M requirements & standards will not be delivered to cutting by anyway. Fabrics Delivery procedure to Garments by GPQ- 1. We received lab test report, inspection report & weight sheet from fabric inspection section & cross check all the reports 2. If all reports are ok & in the meantime fabric quality is ok then we prepare a check list 3. We deliver this check list with weight sheet 4. There are two pages in check list, one page will be preserved in cutting section & other page will be return back in GPQ section with delivery weight & Signature 5. GPQ section preserves the lab test report, inspection report
  48. 48. 48 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 48 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Buyer wise Testing Requirement- Date:11-09-2017 Name of Test H& M Lidl (HK& B.C) Hema Sears GP USPoloTAKKOTEIJEN Dimentional Stability towash(Shrinkage) KnitGeneral ±5%, Rib+waffle+interloc k L-5% &w +5%/-7% 2% to-5% ±6% S/J L/w -6%, Terry L-8%/w- 8%, RibL-6%/w- ±5% L-5%, w -5% ±5% T/D -5%, L/D -5%/+2% Twisting(Spirality) 5%(Trouser8% & LongSleeve 1cm 5% 5% 5% 3% 5% 5% 5% GSM ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% C/FtoRubbing--Dry 3to4 4 4 4 4 3 to 4 4 3 to 4 C/FtoRubbing--Wet 2to3(CN shipment) 2to3 3 3 3 2 to 3 3 2 to 3 C/FtoWash--ColorStaining 3to4 3 to 4 ≥4 3 to 4 4 3 to 4 C/FtoWash--ColorChange 4 3 to 4 ≥4 4 4 4 C/FtoWash--CrossStaining 4to5 3 to 4 ≥4 4 to 5 4 to 5 4 C/FtoWater-- ColorStaining 3to4 3 to 4 ≥4( Baby item) 4 3 C/FtoWater-- ColorChange 4 3 to 4 ≥4( Baby item) 3 to 4 4 C/FtoWater-- CrossStaining 4to5 3 to 4 ≥4 4 to 5 4 to 5 C/FtoPerspiration(ACID)--ColorStaining 3to4 ≥4 4 3 to 4 3 to 4 C/FtoPerspiration(ACID)--ColorChange 4 ≥4 3 to 4 4 4 C/FtoPerspiration(ACID)--CrossStaining 4to5 ≥4 4 to 5 4 to 5 4 C/FtoPerspiration(ALKALI)--ColorStaining 3to4 ≥4 4 3 to 4 3 to 4 C/FtoPerspiration(ALKALI)--ColorChange 4 ≥4 3 to 4 4 4 C/FtoPerspiration(ALKALI)--CrossStaining 4to5 ≥4 4 to 5 4 to 5 4 C/ctoSaliva-- ColorStaining 4 N/A 4(Size≤36months)4 4 to 5 C/ctoSaliva-- ColorChange 4 N/A 4(Size≤36months)4 4 to 5 C/ctoSaliva-- CrossStaining 4to5 N/A 4(Size≤36months)4 4 to 5 C/FtoPhenolicYellowing 4 N/A 4 to 5 3 to 4 4 C/FtoLight 3to4 3 to 4 ≥4 3to4 4 to 6 3 Pilling 3(blendedfabric) 4(Martindale) ≥3(15000Cycle) 4 3 to 4 Bursting 250kpa(GSM≤200) N/A N/A N/A N/A FabricpH 4 to7.5 4 to7.5 4 to7.5 5 to 7 4 to7.5 Appearance afterwash Nomajorchange N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C N.M.C Dye transferinstorage--Colorstaining 4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 3 to 4 N/A N/A Dye transferinstorage--ColorChange 4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 3 to 4 N/A N/A Dye transferinstorage--Crossstaining 4 to 5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 3 to 4 N/A N/A Note:CN-China,N.M.C-NomajorChange,T/D-Tumble dry,L/D-Line dry,N/A- NotApplicable,HK-Hongkong,B.C-BayCity,kpa- Kilopascale General 3to4, if size ≤104itshould be 5 General 3to4, if size ≤104itshould be 5(KidsItem) Chaity Composite ltd. Sonargaon,Narayangonj Buyers Requirments
  49. 49. 49 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 49 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Buyer wise File Keeping procedure- H&M Sample Documents File Keeping (Buyer Requirement) 13. FTD 14. Knitting Data 15. Grieg Swatch 16. Dyeing Recipe 17. Program Route 18. Finishing parameter 19. Test Report 20. Inspection Report 21. Uster Report 22. Yarn Test Report 23. Booking Sheet 24. Summary Sheet H&M Production Documents keep in the File 1. Booking Sheet 2. Order Sheet 3. Rick Assessment Sheet 4. Counter Sample comments copy 5. FTD Sample Comments copy 6. Inspection Report (4 Points) 7. Packing List 8. GPQ Certificate 9. Lab Test Report 10. Summary sheet
  50. 50. 50 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 50 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Need available in QAD Department: 1. Lab Dip 2. Counter/PP Sample 3. Original Swatch 4. Fabric Technical Data/FTD 5. Booking Sheet Record Keeping in Department: 1. Shade Continuity 2. Every Rolls Shade Brand 3. Every Rolls GSM Cutting 4. 4 points System 5. Lab Test Report 6. Accessories Match Keeping Sample Record Keeping: 1. Order Sheet 2. Standard Swatch 3. Shade Card 4. Inspection Report (4 Point System) 5. One Meter Fabrics 6. Accessories Match Keeping 7. Send mail to related person 8. Uster Report
  51. 51. 51 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 51 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Record Keeping Of GPQ 1. Booking Sheet Collect 2. FTD Collect 3. Counter Collect 4. Order Risk Assessment 5. Inspection Report (4 Point System) 6. Shade Continuity 7. Roll to Roll GSM Board 8. Roll to Roll Shade Board 9. Accessories Joint with Body 10. Test Report 11. GPQ Certificate 12. Packing List 13. Sample Process Record 14. Light Life Our existing Customer:- 1. H&M 2. Hema 3. Lidl Hong Kong 4. Bay City (Lidl)
  52. 52. 52 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 52 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Quality Related imported Shortcut 1. QAD- Quality Assurance Department 2. QSR- Quality Standards & Requirement 3. TQM- Total Quality Management 4. SRM- Standard Reference Method 5. ISO- International Organization for Standardization 6. ASTM- American Society of Testing & Materials 7. RQS- Requirement for Quality System 8. QMS- Quality Management System 9. MR- Minimum Manufacturing Requirement 10.AQL- Acceptable Quality Level 11.GSM- Grams per Square Meter 12.QC- Quality Controller 13.MPP- Mini Project Policy 14.NQC- Nominated Quality Controller 15.SOP- Standard Operating Procedure 16.CMC- Color Measurement Clarification 17.PC- Polyester of Cotton 18.CVC- Chief Value of Cotton 19.FTD- Fabrics Technical Data 20.PPE- Personal Protective Equipment 21.H&M- Hannes & Mauritz 22.C&A- Calzado & Aceesorios 23.TDS- Technical Data sheet 24.MSDS- Materials Safety Data sheet 25.LC- Latter of Credit 26.CM- Manufacturing Cost 27.CCL- Chaity Composite Ltd 28.GP- Golden Penney 29.M&S- Marks & Spencer 30.TOD- Time of Delivery 31.RFT- Right First Time
  53. 53. 53 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 53 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd 32.RFD- Ready For Delivery 33.PPC- Production Planning Centre 34.PMC- Production Monitoring Centre 35.CSR- Customer Specific Requirement 36.EPZ- Export Processing Zone 37.CTP- Certified third Party 38.CPQ- Configure Price Quote 39.CTX- Corporate Trade Exchange 40.VOC- Volatile Organic Compounds 41.QA- Quality Assurance 42.CAP- Compliance Audit Program Corrective Action Plan Common Audit Process 43.IE- Industrial Engineering 44.RMG- Ready Made Garments 45.HR- Human Resources 46.CSR- Compliance Social Reasonability 47.PV- Present Value 48.CAD- Computer Aided Design 49.ACTL- Advisory Committee on Trademarks & Licensing 50.GOTS-Global Organic Textile Standard 51.ETP- Effluent Treatment Plant 52.WTP- Water Treatment Plant 53.RO- Pure it Water/ Reverse Osmosis 54.TBC- To be Confirm 55.OK- Objection Killed 56.AM- Ante Meridiem 57.PM- Post Meridiem 58.PTO- Please Turn Over 59.LOGG- Label of Graded Goods 60.AOP- All Over Print 61.COC- Code of Conducts 62.MIS- Management Information System
  54. 54. 54 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 54 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd 63.BGMEA- Bangladesh Garments Manufactures & Exporters Association's 64.BKMEA- Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactures & Exporters Associations 65.BTMC- Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporations 66.BJMC- Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporations 67.CPI- Course Per Inch 68.WPI- Wales Per Inch 69.BSCI-Business Social Compliance Initiative 70.DA- Disciplinary Action 71.BSCIC- Bangladesh Small and cottage Industrial Corporations 72.OBA- Optical Brighting Agents 73.OCS- Open Costing Sheet 74.COS- Collection of Style 75.BCI- Better Cotton Initiative 76.OC-Organic Cotton
  55. 55. 55 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 55 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Grey Fabric Quality Section Inspection Machine SOP Power Swatch on Set RPM Set Light Ready to Inspection Fabrics M/c Run- 16/18 RPM Check by 4 point System Acceptable Range Not Acceptable range Grey fabrics Store Temporally Reject Zone Ready to Batch for Dyed Permanent Reject Consideration Approved
  56. 56. 56 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 56 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Grey Inspection: 2.Knitting Production 3.Inspection, 4 Point System 4.More than 28 points Reject 5.Major Problem Discuses with QAD Head 6.Keep Record in GPQ File Check Point for Grieg Fabrics 1.Order/Buyer wise Quality Check 2.4 point system Check 3.Top light Lux Value 1000+ & Back light No need Lux Value Just Need Yarn Variation & Hole Check 4.Two person Maximum Two hours continue Check then others two persons continue 5.Inspection – A. Yarn Variation/Count Mix B. Contaminations C. Knitting Hole D. Jumping E. Fly Contra/ Yarn Contra F. Sinker Mark G.Needle Mark H.Set off I. Lycra Out
  57. 57. 57 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 57 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Greige Fabrics inspection a) Two person together inspection continue maximum two hours & combined take decision. b) Another two person give to support fabrics for inspection & keeping for storage which is inspection complete also reject fabrics keeping Temporally Reject area for finial decision from Head of Quality. c) Keep record which person work two hours with sign d) Machine Speed should be limit 16 to 18 RPM, Means per one minute 16 to 18 meters inspection e) Inspection Machine Light Value Minimum 1000+ lux & Expired time one year or 1300 hours which is 1st valid f) Light Day light, Need to Register log book for time maintain & Lux Checking record g) If any major problem first communicate with online Quality controller h) Major Oil Sport check from Light box with UV light i) Yarn variation/ Patta & Hole, Oil spot check by back light j) Back light lux value not limitation k) Inspection 4 point system l) Keep all record, take sign from Head of Quality
  58. 58. 58 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 58 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd ‰Uó Zyjbv Kivi Rb¨ : 1. Kvjvi Iqvm cixÿv 2. ‡mW cwieZ©‡bi cwigvY Rvbvi Rb¨ 3. GK †mW †_‡K Ab¨ †m‡Wi `~iyZ¡ eySevi Rb¨ 4. ‡U‡ói cwigvY Rvbevi Rb¨
  59. 59. 59 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 59 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Knitting Basic Information 5.Warp Knit 6.Weft Knit
  60. 60. 60 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 60 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
  61. 61. 61 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 61 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
  62. 62. 62 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 62 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd myZvi UzBó : 1. evsjv‡`‡k e¨env‡ii 85% myZv †RW UzBó, Nwoi KvUvi w`‡K ¸b©vqgvb UzBó †RW UzBó| evsjv‡`‡k wbwUs †gwkb mg~n I Nwoi KvUvi w`‡K ¸b©vqgvb †gwkb| 2. myZvi KvD›U hZ †ewk Zvi UzBó I ZZ †ewk _v‡K| 3. ‡Kvg&W myZvi †_‡K KvW© myZvi UzBó †ewk _v‡K| 4. myZvi UzBó †ewk n‡j, Kvc‡oi I UzBó †ewk n‡e| 5. myZvi ¸bv¸‡b Dci wbf©i Ki‡e Kvc‡oi ¸bv¸b|
  63. 63. 63 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 63 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
  64. 64. 64 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 64 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Print (All over): 1. Pigment print 2.Reactive Print 3.Dispatch print 4.Fluent Print Check Point: 1. Customer Order 2. Design 3. Stricop 4. Repeat Measurement 5. Number of color 6. Shade of color with Approval copy 7. Rubbing fastness 8. Washing fastness 9. Print durability
  65. 65. 65 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 65 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd 10.Width & GSM fulfill as Requirement 11.Shrinkage 12. Phenolic Yellowing (White & Mélange) Testing Requirement: 1. Color Fastness a. Wash - Color Change - Staining - Cross Staining b. Water c. Rubbing d. Perspiration- Acid (Ladies) - Alkali (Boys) e. Sea Water f. Sublimation g. Light Fastness
  66. 66. 66 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 66 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd h. Sun test i. Saliva 2. Physical test a. Pilling – Martaindals - ICI Box b. Snagging Resistance c. Stretch Recovery d. Busting Strength 3. Dimensional Stability - Washing - Dry Cleaning - Dry Steam a. Shrinkage b. Spirality c. Twisting d. Skewness/ Bowing 4. Kids Item a. APEO/AP (Alkyl Phenol Ethoxylates) b. Formaldehyde
  67. 67. 67 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 67 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd c. Phenal d. pH 5. Chemical test a. Phenolic yellowing(White & Mélange) b. Composition/Fiber Content (CVC, PC, Lycra) c. Flammability- Fire proof within 30 Second d. Print Durability e. Chlorinated 6. Yarn test a. Single Strength b. TPI c. Count d. Appearance
  68. 68. 68 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 68 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Multifibre Test Fabrics: 1. Secondary Cellulose Acetate (Dicel) 2. Bleached unmercerized Cotton 3. Nylon 6.6 4. Polyster (Terylene) 5. Acrylic (Courtelle) 6. Wool Worsted Fabrics Consumption- 1. Body length + Sleeve length + 10 Cm (Folding, Sleeve & Bottom) x (Chest + 4CM)x2 ÷ 10,000 X GSM ÷1000x12x10%(Wastage = KG/Dozen (LengthxChestx2÷10,000xGSM÷1000x 12+15%) 2. (Length x Chest x 2 ÷ 1550 X GSM÷1000x12+15%)
  69. 69. 69 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 69 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd 3. Weight X 1550 ÷ Width ÷ GSM X 1000 ÷ 36 = Yards 4. Wight ÷ Width ÷ Length X 10,000 = GSM 5. Length X Width ÷ 10,000 X GSM = Wight 6. Needle Count= Dia x Gauge x ¶ (3.14) 7. Yarn Count Check= o.oo5905xyarn length (CM)/ Wight 8. Here,- 1 Meter = 39.37 inch = 100 CM = 1000 MM 1 inch = 2.54 CM 1 CM = 10 MM 1 KG = 1000 Grams = 2.2046 LBS 1550 = 39.37 x 39.37 10,000 = 100 x 100
  70. 70. 70 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 70 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Care Label Code (Symbol) 1. Washing Symbol- 95® 95®c Temperature at wash 60® 60®c Temperature Hand wash but not use machine X Don’t wash 2. Bleaching only in Cold water CL Bleaching only in cold water X Don’t Bleach 3. Ironing- Iron at max 110®c Temperature
  71. 71. 71 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 71 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Medium hot ironing at Max 150®C Hot iron at Max 200®c Not iron able 4. Dry Cleaning- A Dry Cleaning with any Solvent P Dry Cleaning only with per chloride benzene, pur alcohol F Dry Cleaning with Benzene, Pur Alcohol X Don’t dry Clean
  72. 72. 72 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 72 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd 5. Drying- High temperature Low temperature tumble Don’t tumble Spread to dry Hang to dry without Spin drying Dry on Clothes hanger
  73. 73. 73 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 73 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Goal of Quality department: 1. What about delivery, how much Complain from Garments a. Shade issue b. Inspection c. Width d. GSM e. Shrinkage issue 2. FTD submit vs Approved & Reject 3. Sample Submit vs Approved & Reject 4. Not delivery any wrong fabrics 5. Proper information's transfer to related department
  74. 74. 74 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 74 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd Avgiv cªwZÁve×, c‡b¨i ¸bv¸Y wbð©Z Kivi, hvnv †µZvi Pvwn`v|
  75. 75. 75 | P a g e Q u a l i t y A s s u r a n c e D e p a r t m e n t Page 75 of 75 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd GLv‡b D‡jøwLZ welqe¯Íy mgn ev¯ÍeZvi Ges AwfÁZvi Av‡jv‡K Av‡jvwPZ, msKjb GÛ Dc¯’vcbvq:- BwÄwbqvi ‡gvnv¤§` wgRvbyi ingvb wb‡UW †d«we· G·cvU© weGmwm Bb †U·UvBj BwÄwbqvwis (AZxk w`csKi) wW‡cøvgv Bb †U·UvBj BwÄwbqvwis (AvB wU B wU, †bvqvLvjx) GwRGg (‡Kvqv‡jwU GÛ ‡cªvWv± ‡Wvfví‡g›U) ‰PwZ K‡¤úvwRU wj: ‡mvubviMvuI, bvivqbMÄ evsjv‡`k AwfÁZv- dwKi wbUIqvi wj: 9 eQi - wdwbwms, †Kvqv‡jwU GÛ WvBs mnKvwi g¨v‡bRvi Bwcwjqb wb‡U· wj: 3 eQi- wdwbwms g¨v‡bRvi ‰PwZ K‡¤úvwRU wj: 5 eQi, wdwbwms wmwbqi g¨v‡bRvi gv Mv‡g©bm GÛ †U·UvBj, Bw_Iwcqv- 2 eQi, d¨vwe· wdwbwms G·cvU© (g¨v‡bRvi)
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Textile Quality

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