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Page 1
National Institute of Textile Engineering &Research
(NITER)
Nayarhat, Savar, Dhaka 1350
REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
DURATION: 2 MONTHS (10TH
JANUARY TO 9TH
MARCH, 2017)
WITH
AKH KNITTING & DYEING LTD. (AKH GROUP)
92, Rajphulbaria, Tetuljhora, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Phone: 7741727, 7741728, Fax: 7710788
SUPERVISING TEACHER
Md. Shamsuddin Kayes Chowdhury
LECTURER
APPAREL MANUFACTURING ENGINEERING
National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
Nayarhat,Savar,Dhaka 1350
Submitted By:
NAME Exam ID SESSION
Taosif Ahmed 649 2012-2013
Sadia Tabassum Tabin 683 2012-2013
Tahmina Sultana 686 2012-2013
Page 2
I. Acknowledgement
First of all we would like to express our gratitude to almighty Allah to do our industrial attachment
in one of the most reputed and well-known organizations in the country. We would like to express
our sincere gratitude to Prof. Dr. Mohammed Mizanur Rahman, Principal, National Institute of
Textile Engineering and Research (NITER) for allowing us to undertake this work. We are deeply
indebted to our supervisor Md. Shamsuddin Kayes Chowdhury & co-supervisor Md Anisur
Rahman Lecturer, National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research, for their stimulating
inspiration, kind guidance, valuable suggestions & guidance have made the report in a good
manner.
Special thanks to Honorable industrial supervisor Md. Zahid Al Hasan, AGM (Dyeing Division),
AKH knitting & Dyeing Ltd. for his relentless support and guidance without which the smoothness
of Internship and learning might not have been possible. We would like to special thanks to Mr.
Shadhan, Asstt. Manager of knitting section for guiding us. We put our special thanks to Md. Ziaur
Rahman, Sr. Manager of dyeing section, who has provide us a lot of information and his valuable
knowledge & suggestions. We put our special thanks to Mr. Aminur Rahman for his guiding about
Garments Division and also thanks to Mr. Khairul Islam for guiding us about IE Department.We
thank to Mr. Munir Ahamed, Merchandiser, AGM for his guidance and helps. We are also thankful
to other personnel of merchandising department for their helping attitude. We also thankful to Mr.
A.T.M Hasanuzzaman for guiding us about Dyeing Lab.
We would like to express our deep sense of gratitude and thanks to Mr. Md. Khalilur Rahman
Khan, Manager of HRM department for his kind cooperation and observation, for their guidance,
valuable knowledge & suggestions during our internship period. We would like to convey our best
regards to all the officials and workers of the AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. We specially like to
thank our parents & all of our family members for extending their helping hand at a time when we
need it most. We remember all the care and love of our brothers & friends who made our every
existence more meaningful and worthy. Finally we would like to put special thanks to the authority
of AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. for allowing us in their organization.
Page 3
II. Executive Summary
The internationally recognized buyers are looking for those countries for producing their apparel
products where different type of mills has established as a non-stop source for the global apparel
market, satisfy and meet customer expectation by developing and providing products and services
on time, which offer value in terms of quality, price, safety & environment impact. And also,
assure complete compliance with the international quality standards and also to provide the
employees internationally acceptable working condition. In Bangladesh, there are different types
of textile industries those are producing high-quality textile and apparel product AKH Knitting
& Dyeing Ltd. is one of them. AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. is a garments manufacturer &
exporter having all state of the art facilities with annual turnover 45 million USD. They have a
different type of cutting, sewing, and finishing machines supplied by mostly Japan, Taiwan,
Thailand, Germany, China, Greece etc. which are very latest. It has high production rate finished
garments are produced per day. The production is controlled by skill persons. Finishing is well
branded. They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from the
international market like UK, Belgium, Germany, Sweden .They follow all the system for their
machines maintenance’s so production cannot hamper.
In this report, we tried to give some information about AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. and we
have observed that AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. produce high-quality garment and fulfill the
special requirements of the different types of buyers according to the different internationally
recommended standard method.
Page 4
III. Table of Contents
Serial Subject Page
1.0 Description of Organization 10
2.0 Man Power Management 15
2.1 Shifting System 16
2.2 Responsibilities of Officer 16
2.3 Job Description of the Officers 16
3.0 Machine Description 17
3.1.1 Circular Knitting Machine 17
3.1.2 Flat Knitting Machine 22
3.1.3 Fabric Inspection Machine 22
3.2 Batch Section Machine 23
3.3 Dyeing Section Machine 23
3.4 Finishing Section Machine 24
3.5 Lab Equipment’s 24
3.6 Printing Section Machine 26
3.7 Embroidery Section Machine 26
3.8 Sample Section Machine 26
3.9 Cutting Machine 27
3.10 Sewing Machine 27
3.11 Others Equipment’s 28
4.0 Material Management 30
4.1 Introduction 30
4.2 Types 30
4.3 Prices of Yarn 30
4.4 Sources of Yarn 31
4.5 Sources of Dyes 32
4.6 Prices of Dyes 33
4.7 Garments Division Material 34
5.0 Production Planning Sequence & Operation 35
5.1 Knitting Section 35
5.1.1 Knitting 35
5.1.2 Knitting Types 35
5.1.3 Process Flow Chart of Knitting 36
5.1.4 Organogram of Knitting Section 37
5.1.5 Layout Plan of Circular Knitting Machine Floor-1 38
5.1.6 Layout Plan of Circular Knitting Machine Floor-2 39
Page 5
5.1.7 Layout Plan of Flat Knitting Machine 40
5.1.8 Shifting System 41
5.1.9 Responsibilities of Production Officer (Knitting) 41
5.1.10 Knitting Machine Types 41
5.1.11 Different Parts of Knitting Machine 42
5.1.12 Some Pictures of Knitting Section 49
5.1.13 Types of Knitted Fabric Produced by AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. 50
5.1.14 Different Types of Knitting Faults 50
5.1.15 Types of Knitted Stripe and Their Differences 51
5.1.16 Different Types of Knitting Faults & Remedies 52
5.1.17 GSM Control of Knitted Fabric 53
5.1.18 Different Types of Cam Arrangement 53
5.1.19 Production Parameter 56
5.1.20 Knitting Machine Production Calculation 56
5.2 Batch Section 57
5.2.1 Batching or Batch 57
5.2.2 Types of Batching 57
5.2.3 Function or Purpose of Batch Section 57
5.2.4 Proper Batching Criteria 57
5.2.5 Batch Management 57
5.3 Color Lab Section 58
5.3.1 Color Lab 58
5.3.2 Sequence of Lab Operation 58
5.3.3 Working Flow Chart of Color Lab 60
5.3.4 Lab Dyeing Procedure for Cotton 61
5.4 Physical Lab Section 62
5.4.1 Fabric Strength Test 62
5.4.2 Pilling Test 62
5.4.3 PH Test 63
5.4.4 Rubbing Test 64
5.4.5 Perspiration Test 64
5.5 Dyeing Section 65
5.5.1 Organogram of Dyeing Section 65
5.5.2 Layout Plan of Dyeing Section 66
5.5.3 Working Flow Chart for Dyeing 67
5.5.4 Picture of Dyeing Section 68
5.5.5 Cotton Dyeing Procedure 69
5.5.6 Viscose Dyeing Procedure 70
5.5.7 Polyester Dyeing Procedure 71
Page 6
5.5.8 Dyeing Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used in Dyeing Section 73
5.5.9 Different Types of Dyeing Faults & Remedies 74
5.6 Dyeing Finishing Section 76
5.6.1 Finishing 76
5.6.2 Object of Finishing 76
5.6.3 Layout Plan of Finishing Section 76
5.6.4 Flow Chart of Finishing Section 77
5.6.5 Dyeing Finishing Machine Activities 77
5.6.6 Picture of Finishing Section 78
5.6.7 Chemical Used in Finishing Section 79
5.6.8 Heat Setting Parameter 79
5.6.9 Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Stenter Machine 79
5.6.10 Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Compactor Machine 80
5.7 Sample Section 81
5.7.1 Layout Plan of Sample Section 81
5.7.2 Organogram of Sample Section 82
5.7.3 Flow Chart of Sample Section 83
5.7.4 Types of Sample 84
5.7.5 The Details Attach to The Garments Sample 85
5.8 Pattern & Marker Section 85
5.8.1 Pattern 85
5.8.2 Pattern Making Depends On 85
5.8.3 Pattern Making by Hand (Basic T-Shirt) 86
5.8.4 Pattern Making by Lectra Modaris 87
5.8.5 Marker Making 87
5.9 Cutting Section 88
5.9.1 Layout Plan of Cutting Section 88
5.9.2 Organogram of Cutting Section 89
5.9.3 Flow Chart of Cutting Section 90
5.9.4 Lay Wise Fabric Consumption 91
5.9.5 Size Wise Cutting Quantity Calculation 92
5.9.6 Marker Attachment 93
5.9.7 Fabric Cutting 93
5.9.8 Photos of Cutting Section 95
5.10 Printing Section 96
5.10.1 Print Base on Three Types 96
5.10.2 Printing System 96
5.10.3 Types of Printing 96
5.10.4 Flow Chart of Printing 97
Page 7
5.10.5 Common Printing Defects 98
5.10.6 Major Causes of Printing Defects 99
5.11 Embroidery Section 99
5.11.1 Different Types of Stitch Used in Embroidery Section 100
5.12 Sewing Section 100
5.12.1 Layout Plan of Sewing Floor 101
5.12.2 Organogram of Sewing Section 102
5.12.3 Flow Chart of Sewing Section 103
5.12.4 Function of Different Sewing Machine 104
5.12.5 Needle Used in Sewing Section 104
5.12.6 Sewing Thread Consumption 105
5.12.7 Different Types of Sewing Faults, Causes & Remedies 105
5.12.8 Photos of Sewing Section 109
5.13 Industrial Engineering Section 110
5.13.1 Industrial Engineering 110
5.13.2 Objectives of IE 110
5.13.3 The Activities of IE 110
5.13.4 The Techniques of IE 110
5.13.5 Calculation of SMV, Target & Efficiency 111
5.13.6 Sewing Sequence for a Basic T-Shirt 112
5.13.7 Sewing Sequence for a Ladies Vest 114
5.14 Garments Finishing Section 116
5.14.1 Flow Process of Garments Finishing 117
5.14.2 Chemical Used to Remove Spot from Garments Finishing Section 118
5.14.3 Flow Process of Garments Packing 118
5.14.4 Poly Used in Garments Packing 119
5.14.5 Carton Used for Garments Packing 119
5.14.6 Assortment System 119
5.14.7 Photos of Finishing Section 120
6.0 Quality Assurance System 121
6.1 Quality Assurance 122
6.2 Objectives of Quality Assurance 122
6.3 Quality Control 122
6.3.1 Testing 122
6.3.2 Inspection 123
6.4 Quality Standard 124
6.5 Quality Report 125
6.5.1 Quality Report on Cutting 125
6.5.2 Quality Report on Sewing 125
Page 8
6.5.3 Quality Report on Finishing 125
6.6 Remarks 125
7.0 Maintenance 126
7.1 Maintenance of Machinery 127
7.2 Maintenance Routine 127
7.3 Organogram of Maintenance Section 128
7.4 Flow Chart of Maintenance 128
7.5 Maintenance Procedure 129
7.6 Maintenance Tools 129
8.0 Utility Services 133
8.1 Machine Description & Capacity of Utility Section 134
9.0 Store & Inventory Control 137
9.1 Inventory 138
9.2 Causes of Maintain Inventory 138
9.3 Scope of Inventory Control 138
9.4 Flow Chart of Store Department 138
9.5 Organogram of Inventory Section 139
9.6 Store Activity 139
9.7 Store Capacity 140
9.8 Remarks 140
10.0 Cost Analysis 141
10.1 Cost Analysis 142
10.2 Price of The Product 142
10.3 Cost of The Product 142
10.4 Knitting Cost of Different Fabric 143
10.5 Accessories/Trimmings Cost 144
10.6 Remarks 144
11.0 Marketing Activities 145
11.1 Marketing Information 146
11.2 Merchandising 146
11.4 Sequence of Merchandising Procedure 147
11.5 Consumption 148
11.6 Costing 149
11.7 Cost of Making Calculation 150
11.8 Swatch Card 151
11.9 Major Buyers 152
12.0 Others 153
12.1 Compliance 154
12.2 List of Compliance Issues 154
Page 9
12.3 Photos of Compliance Section 157
12.4 Water Treatment Plant 159
12.5 Methods of Water Softening 159
12.6 Sequence of Water Treatment Plant is Given Below 160
12.7 Effluent Treatment Plant 161
12.8 Flow Diagram of ETP 162
12.9 Different Things Checked in ETP 164
Impact of Internship 165
Conclusion 166
Page 10
CHAPTER ONE
DESCRIPTION OF ORGANIZATION
AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd.
Page 11
Factory Name : AKH KNITTING & DYEING LTD.
(A 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Factory)
Estimated Project Value 9.0 Million US $
Factory Location 92, Phulbaria, Tetuljhora, Savar, Dhaka‐1347, Bangladesh
Phone:+88 02 7741727‐8
Fax : +88 02 7710788
Head Office Address 133‐134, Hamayetpur, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Phone: 880‐2‐7744001‐8; 880‐2‐7741830‐31.
Fax: (880‐2) 8155640 –41.
Contact E‐mail ID alam@akhknit.com
kashem@akhfashions.com
hossain@akhfashions.com
ranju@akhknit.com
Management Md. Delwar Hossain(Chairman)
Md. Shamsul Alam (Managing Director)
Md. Abul Kashem (Deputy Managing Director)
Md. Shamim Haque(Director)
Legal Status Private Limited Company
Bonded Warehouse No. 106/CUS‐SBW/2001
E.R.C No. RA 53894
BGMEA Reg. No. 3890 (AKDL)
Bank Export Import Bank of Bangladesh
Gulshan Branch, 75, Gulahsn Avenue,
Dhaka 1212, Bangladesh.
Phone: 9886296, 9862262, 8819711.
Telex: 632125 EXN GL BJ. Fax: 880‐2‐8818703.
E‐mail: eximgul@bttb.net.bd
Swift # EXBKBDDH 007
Company Established In 2004
Annual Turnover 75Million US $ (2016)
Factory Type 100% Export Oriented
™ Knitting Fabric
™ Dyeing & Finishing
™ Cutting
Page 12
™ Printing & Embroidery
™ Sewing & Readymade Garments
Total Land Area Around –3.72 Acre.
Factory Size 3, 48,454.47Sft (32384.44Sqm.)
Manufacturing Area 2,05,000 Sft.
Office Area 6,000 Sft.
Canteen & Dining 7,000 Sft.
Total Nos. of workers 4949Persons (Incl. Knitting & Dyeing)
No. of male workers 3000 Persons
No. female workers 1949 Persons
Lead time 60‐90 days
Main Product Tee shirt; polo shirt; sweat shirt; tank top; dresses;
jog pant; hoody; jackets; fleeces; pajama sets etc.
Production Capacity 2.9million Pieces per month.
Fabric Capacity (for circ
ular knitting)
480‐500 ton per months.
Major Customers 1. T‐Chibo (Germany);
2. H&M (Sweden);
3. Sainsbury’s (UK);
4. ALDI (Germany);
5. M & Co (UK);
6.Others :‐ {Gustav Daiber (Germany); Ernsting’s Family G
mbH (Germany); B&C (Belgium), Bonmarch (UK); MS Mode (
NL); Prenatal (FR)}
Major Certificates Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS);
Organic Content Standard (OCS);
Flo‐Cert (Fair‐Trade) ;
Oeko‐Tex (Cotton Fabric);
Oeko‐Tex (Blended Fabric);
Oeko‐Tex (Garments) ;
ISO 9001:2008 (QMS) etc.
ACCORD Inspection ACCORD on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh
Category : Green
Factory Compliance Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) Ethical Trading
Initiative (ETI)(SEDEX)
Working Shift Garments + Embroidery –1(One), (8.00 am‐5.00 pm)
Print – 2 (Two) (8.00 am‐5.00 pm/ 8.00 pm‐
Page 13
5.00 am) Dyeing+Knitt.‐ 3 (Three) (6.00 am‐2.00 pm, 2.00 pm‐
10.00pm, 10.00 pm6.00 am.)
Total Warehouse area 60,000 sft.
Knitting Capacity 50 Tons per day (European machines like Mayers, Vignony, Ori
io etc.).
Dyeing Capacity 17 Tons per day (High temperature European machines like Sclav
os, Scholl etc.).
Garments Line 32 lines
Garments Production 2.9 million Pieces per month.
Product mix 100% cotton.
CVC (Chief value of cotton).
PC/TC (The more % of polyester).
Mélange :
Grey mélange: 10% viscose + 90% cotton.
15% viscose + 85% cotton.
Mission:
AKH is committed to venture out into the changing and challenging global market as a leading
enterprise in the world apparel industry by satisfying its valued customers.
Vision:
 To operate as one of the best sources of apparel in the global market.
 To meet compliance standards to assure an ideal work environment and obtain the optimum
level of productivity.
 To maintain the technology-led command in the industry.
 To promote development ensuring unprejudiced and equal opportunities for all.
 To continue growing nurturing competence in professionalism seeking win-win terms.
Page 14
Factory Location:
Factory Location in Google Map
Page 15
CHAPTER TWO
Page 16
2.1 Shifting System:
Shift Name Time
A 7.00 am - 2.00 pm
B 2.00 pm -10.00 pm
C 10.00 pm -7.00 am
General Shift 8.00 am - 6.00 pm
2.2 Responsibilities of officer:
 To give factory program slip.
 To match production sample with target product.
 To collect production sample for sample matching nest production.
 To observed production during finishing running & also after finishing.
 To identify disputed fabrics & report to production manager for necessary action.
 To discuss with production manager about overall production if necessary.
 To sign the store requisition.
 Also to execute overall floor works.
2.3 Job description of the officers:
 Report to : Assistant Production Manager
 Job Summary: To plan, execute & follow up the production activities & control the
quality.
Page 17
CHAPTER THREE
Machine Description
3.1 KNITTING SECTION
3.1.1 CIRCULAR KNITING MACHINE:
Sl. No. Description Brand Origin GG DIA No. of
Needle
Remarks
01. S/J SANTONI China 28 30 2639 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
02. S/J SANTONI China 28 34 2990 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
03. S/J SANTONI China 28 34 2990 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
04. S/J SANTONI China 28 34 2990 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
05. S/J SANTONI China 28 32 2815 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
06. S/J SANTONI China 28 30 2639 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
07. S/J SANTONI China 28 32 2815 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
08. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 32 2413 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
09. S/J SANTONI China 28 30 2639 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
Page 18
10. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 26 26 2124 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
11. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
12. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
13. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
14. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 28 34 3343 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
15. S/J Zentex Singapore 24 24 1810 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
16. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 28 34 3343 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
17. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
18. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 28 34 3343 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
19. Interlock Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
20. Interlock Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
21. Rib ORIZIO Italy 18 30 1697 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
22. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
23. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 32 2413 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
Page 19
24. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 28 34 3343 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
25. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 34 2564 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
26. S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
27. S/J Tayu China 20 34 2137 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
28. S/J Tayu China 24 34 2564 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
29. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
30. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
31. S/J Tayu China 24 44 3318 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
32. S/J Tayu China 20 44 2765 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
33. Rib Tayu China 18 38 2149 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
34. Rib Tayu China 18 44 2488 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
35. Rib Tayu China 18 42 2375 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
36. Rib Tayu China 18 42 2375 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
37. S/J Zentex Singapore 28 36 3166 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
Page 20
38. S/J Zentex Singapore 28 36 3166 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
39. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2261 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
40. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2261 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
41. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 36 2035 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
42. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 36 2035 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
43. S/J Tayu China 16 44 2212 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
44. S/J Tayu China 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
45. S/J Tayu China 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
46. Rib Tayu China 18 40 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
47. Rib Tayu China 18 40 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
48. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
49. Rib Tayu China 18 42 2376 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
50. Rib Tayu China 18 42 2376 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
51. Rib Tayu China 18 44 2488 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
Page 21
52. Rib Tayu China 18 44 2488 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
53. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
54. Auto
Stripe/Engineering
Stripe
Mayer &
Cie
Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
55. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
56. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
57. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
58. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
59. S/J Tayu China 24 34 2563 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
60. S/J Tayu China 24 34 2563 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
61. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
62. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
63. S/J Zentex Singapore 24 36 2715 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
64. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 34 1922 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
65. S/J Zentex Singapore 28 30 2638 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
Page 22
66. S/J ORIZIO Italy 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
67. Rib ORIZIO Italy 18 34 1922 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
68. Rib ORIZIO Italy 18 34 1922 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
69. S/J ORIZIO Italy 20 30 1884 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
70. S/J Zentex Singapore 24 30 2262 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
71. S/J Zentex Singapore 28 36 3166 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
72. S/J Zentex Singapore 24 26 1960 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
73. Rib SANTONI China 18 38 2148 Full Feeder
Lycra
attachment
3.1.2 FLAT KNITTING MACHINES:
Sl. No. Description Model Brand Qty. Remark
01. Flat Knitting
Machine
Model M 100 Matsuya
(Japan)
10
02. Flat Knitting
Machine
Model JL-203 JY-LEH
(Taiwan)
12
3.1.3 FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE:
Sl. No. Description Model Brand Qty. Remark
01. Cloth
Inspection
Machine
Model – UZ-
90031
Thailand 6
Page 23
3.2 BATCH SECTION:
Sl. No. Description Model Origin Rated
Power ( KW)
Qty. Remark
01. Back Sewing 00230F0 Italy 3 kw 1
02. Back Sewing CCSAP004
8B0121
Italy 3 kw 1
03. Air Tuning DNAT‐400 Korea 11 kw 1
04. Air Tuning Bangladesh 22 kw 1
05. Blower motor Bangladesh 7.5 kw 1
06. Air Tuning DNAT‐400 Korea 11 kw 1
07. Heat Setting DWH1400 Korea 7.5 kw 1
3.3 DYEING SECTION:
Sl.
No.
Description Brand Model Origin Capacity Quantity Remark
1 Dyeing M/C Sclavos Athena‐2 Greece 1000 Kg 1
2 Dyeing M/C Sclavos At‐750 H Greece 750 Kg 1
3 Dyeing M/C Sclavos At‐750 H Greece 750 Kg 1
4 Dyeing M/C Sclavos At‐150 H Greece 150 Kg 1
5 Dyeing M/C Fongs ECO-6-3T China 750 Kg 1
6 Dyeing M/C Fongs ECO‐6‐1T China 250 kg 1
7 Dyeing M/C Fongs Allfit‐30 China 30 kg 1
8 Dyeing M/C Fongs Allfit‐10 China 10 kg 1
9 Dyeing M/C Scholl Rc1420406 Switzerland 1140 kg 1
10 Dyeing M/C Scholl Rc1420406 Switzerland 760 kg 1
11 Dyeing M/C Scholl Rc1410206 Switzerland 380 kg 1
12 Dyeing M/C Scholl 10106 Switzerland 55 kg 1
13 Dyeing M/C Scholl 10106 Switzerland 20 kg 1
14 Dyeing M/C Labpro 212013 Switzerland 630 Kg 1
15 Dyeing M/C Labpro 212014 Switzerland 30 kg 1
Page 24
3.4 FINISHING SECTION:
Sl.
No.
Description Brand Model Origin Capacity Qty. Remark
1 Open Bianco TGLFPO0
046
BO120
Italy 10 ton 1
2 Open Lafer 10KS0277 Italy 10 ton 1
3 Csmevo111 h
2200
HAS 3 CS MO Turkey 3 ton 1
4 Rcmevo
111H2400
HAS 2287‐T Turkey 4 ton 1
5 TMBI125 HAS 4179‐T Turkey 30 kg 1
6 TMBI125 HAS 4178‐T Turkey 30 kg 1
7 S2600G8 TTM MRM‐131 Turkey 10 ton 1
8 Dryer Prato BRIO Italy 1
9 Open Bianco Teltpo,023
0 F0520
Turkey 10 ton 1
10 Open Lafer 10 kso,358 Turkey 10 ton 1
11 Power‐pad Brukner Germany 12 ton 1
12 Open Entema Turkey 6 ton 1
13 Santashr tnk 2 k/
240 gf, ir gas
Santex CH‐9555
Tobel
Switzerlan
d
6 ton 1
14 Tube Tubetex BM‐9875 U.S.A 10 ton 1
15 Santast
retch plus
Santex CH‐9555
Tobel
Switzerlan
d
10 ton 1
16 Light Box Frog, Is
land
CAC‐60 England 1
17 Sewding Lafer Italy 1
3.5 LAB EQUIPMENTS:
Name of Machine Description Brand Model Origin Qty. Remark
Quick wash plus Shrinkage Test SDLATLAS M22QW Sweden 1
Electrolux
washcator
Washing m/c SDLATLAS W 365 Sweden 1
Electrolux
washcator
Washing m/c Roaches H210052
0
U.K 1
Page 25
ELECTRO Lux Washing m/c Roaches 60055 Thailand 1
Verivide Pilling Roaches Pav England 1
Light box Verivide CAC60 1
Q‐SUN Q‐LAB Q‐SUN‐
B‐02
U.S.A 1
Infra‐
Red pyrotec2000
Sample Dyeing Roaches 420306 England 1
ECO‐
Ahiba Nuancc
Dyeing DATACOL
OR
3207 U.S.A 1
Laboratory
squeezer
Squzzing Rapid PA 1 China 1
Laboratory Dyeing
oven
Sample Dryer Rapid PA 1 China 1
Ahiba IR Sample dyeing DATACOL
OR
12 A 021 U.S.A 1
Incubator Oven Roaches 20301480 England 1
Electrolux Dryer Roaches 5300 Sweden 1
ICI Piling Tester Piling managem
ent
Roaches 376803 England 1
Wastec‐p Fastness to wash
ing Test
Roaches 3790-03 England 1
Wrap Reel Yarn count
Tester
Fangyuan
Yg 086e
China 1
Crock Meter Dry & wet Test Roaches 3137‐03 1
Opti‐Dry Dryer Roaches 5183‐11 England 1
Electrolux Dryer Roaches N‐
1130 E‐
17
Thailand 1
Ph Meter Ph‐check LABTECH LMS‐
1003
Korea 1
Electronic Balance Weighting Roaches AR‐2130 U.S.A 1
Electronic Digital
Pipette
Pipetting Dyes Rainin A 100001
3
U.S.A 1
Spectro Photometer SAV 8540 U.S.A 1
Circular Cutter INC
Board
INC Board
GSM Cutter
Roaches U.K 4
Page 26
3.6 PRINTING SECTION MACHINE:
Name of
Machine
Description Brand Model Origin Quantity Remark
Auto Printing AS K M/C FI‐0I‐I Taiwan 1
Belt Curing T‐2000 Fineart T‐2000 Taiwan 1
Belt Curing AS K M/C 3 C318 Taiwan 1
Belt Curing AS K M/C Tird‐3c318 Taiwan 1
Table D/yer Octading China 5
Table D/yer Octading China 1
Table D/yer Spark Tex China 2
Heat Press Dryer Enterprize Bangladesh 18
Auto Camera Victory River China 1
Dryer Dryer Victory River China 1
Hand Dryer Dryer GHG 500‐2 Romania 20
Exhaust Fan 16
Ever Bright Screen Print 130F5 China 1
Ink‐cups Auto B‐100 U.S.A 1
3.7 EMBROIDARY SECTION MACHINE:
Name of
Machine
Origin Model Quantity Remark
Tajima Japan TFGN (Sequin‐20 Head) 1
Tajima Japan TFKN(Cording & Boring‐
12 Head)
1
3.8 SAMPLE SECTION MACHINE:
Name of Machine Description Brand Quantity Remark
Auto pattern cutting machine Winda 1
Auto CAD Lecta ALYS‐30‐L 3
Page 27
3.9 CUTTING MACHINE:
Sl. No. Name of Machine Quantity Remarks
1 Straight Knife Cutting M/C 37
2 Label Cutting M/C 8
3 Band Knife M/C 3
4 Auto Pattern Cutting M/C 1
5 Laser Cutting M/C 1
3.10 SEWING MACHINE:
Sl. No. Name of Machine UNIT‐
1,2,4
UNIT‐3 Quantity Remark
1 PLAIN 473 124 597
2 OVER LOCK 369 116 485
3 FLAT LOCK 239 76 315
4 BUTTON HOLE 22 6 28
5 BUTTON STITCH 20 5 25
6 BAR TACK 4 2 6
7 ZIGZAG LOCK STITCH 6 0 6
8 FEET OF THE ARM 3 0 3
9 FLAT SEAMING 23 0 23
10 KANSAI PMD 9 0 9
11 KANSAI SMOKING 2 0 2
12 KANSAI PIN TACK 3 0 3
13 PEQUDING 6 0 6
14 RIB CUTTING 21 2 23
15 TWO NEEDLE 5 0 5
16 BACK TAPE 4 5 9
17 SNAP BUTTON 40 0 40
18 VELCO ATCHING 5 0 5
20 POCKET WEILTING MACSINE 5 0 5
21 GATHERING STITCH M/C 2 0 2
22 THREAD WINDDING 2 1 3
23 STAPING 2 0 2
25 FABRIC INSPECTION 2 0 2
26 THREAD SHAKING 5 0 5
Page 28
27 LABEL FOULDING 1 0 1
29 SPOT CLEANER 1 0 1
30 NEEDLE CHECK 1 2 3
31 HEAT TRANSFER 27 0 27
32 COMPREASER 1 0 1
33 LAMENITING M/C 1 0 1
34 MINI FUSING 1 1 2
35 PULL TAST M/C 1 1 2
37 HAND HOLD NEEDLE DETECTOR 1 1 2
38 BUTTON COUND M/C 1 0 1
39 AUTO LAY TABLE 4 2 6
40 IRON TABLE 98 94 132
41 PLOTTER:ALYS 30L+ 2 1 3
42 FABRICS INSPECTION MACHINE 1 0 1
3.11 OTHERS EQUIPMENTS:
Description Type of M/C Brand Model Capacity Qty Remarks
Air
Condition
(AC)
SPLIT
GENERAL
117.75 Tons 53
CASSETTE 36 Tons 15
WINDOW 58.5 Tons 31
PANEL AC 14 Tons 24
Lift
Passenger Sigma 1350kg 1
Passenger Sigma Di1‐SA24 1600kg 1
Passenger Hunyadi 1600kg 1
Passenger Hyundai 2000kg 1
Cargo Lift Modern Sl:70432348 1500kg 2
SP 202 200gm 12Pcs
Page 29
Electrical
Balance
Balance
DF 1500 R 500kg 3Pcs
CD 11 300kg 3Pcs
D 51 P 300kg 2Pcs
CH 150 R11 150kg 3Pcs
AR 2130 210gm 1Pes
CQ 250 X L
11
300kg 2Pcs
ARB 120 2100gm 1Pes
CH 30 R 11 300kg 1Pes
T 51 P 300kg 1Pes
PA 213 210gm 1Pes
PA‐153 150gm 1Pes
CH 15 R 11 15kg 2Pcs
Page 30
CHAPTER FOUR
Material Management
4.1 Introduction:
AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. takes yarn as its raw materials for its initial production of knitted
fabric to make garments. It has no spinning section of its own. So, it depends on different of
spinning mills of home and abroad to collect yarn as it requires. Here are the details.
4.2 Types:
Natural and synthetic, Cellulose and non-cellulose all kinds of yarn are used as raw materials in
this organization. Generally cotton, polyester, viscose, modal and spandex are mostly used in
knitting departments.
Material Composition Count
Cotton 100% combed 34s
Cotton 100% combed 28s
Cotton 100% carded 28s
Cotton 100% carded 30s
Cotton 100% combed 30s
CVC Cotton 60% - Viscose 40% 34s
Spandex 100% Elastane 20D
Spandex 100% Elastane 40D
PC Poly 65% - Cotton 35% 26s, 28s
Cotton – Modal Cotton 50% - Modal 50% 30s, 34s
Viscose 100% 36s
Grey mélange Cotton 90% - Viscose 10% 28s
Spandex 100% Elastane 70D
4.3 Prices of Yarn:
Price of yarn varies mill to mill and as different count. Here, we collect a price sheet of overall
price for all the spinning mills of home and abroad of different count from merchandising
section:
Page 31
Sl. No. Yarn Type Yarn count U.S Dollar per kg.
01. Combed 30 3.20
02. Carded 30 2.90
03. Combed 28 3.15
04. Carded 28 2.85
05. Combed 26 3.10
06. Carded 26 2.80
07. Combed 24 3.05
08. Carded 24 2.75
09. Combed 20 3.00
10. Carded 20 2.70
4.4 Sources of Yarn:
The main source of yarn for this mill is the country and neighboring country, India. Here is the
list of its source spinning mills:
Sl. No. Name of Spinning Mill
01. ARIF Spinning Mill Ltd.
02. SAGAR Spinning Mill Ltd.
03. PT-PRIMAYUDHA Spinning Mill Ltd.
04. PRECOT Spinning Mill Ltd.
05. MARAL Spinning Mill Ltd.
06. MSA Spinning Mill Ltd.
07. AA COARSE Spinning Mill Ltd.
08. SQUARE Spinning Mill Ltd.
09. V.MAN Spinning Mill Ltd.
10. ETAFIL Spinning Mill Ltd.
11. PRIME Spinning Mill Ltd.
12. KAMAL Spinning Mill Ltd.
13. OUTPACE Spinning Mill Ltd.
14. BADSHA Spinning Mill Ltd.
15. INVISTA
16. CREORA
Page 32
4.5 Sources of Dyes:
Sl. No. Name of Items Supplier’s Name
01. Remazol Blue RR Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
02. Remazol Bril. Blue RSPL Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
03. Remazol Red RR Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
04. Remazol Yellow RR Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
05. Remazol Bril. Yellow-3GL Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
06. Remazol Green 6BT Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
07. Remazol Orange SAM Tex Solution (Dystar)
08. Remazol Navy RGB Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
09. Remazol Ultra Red RGB Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
10. Remazol Navy Blue GG Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
11. Dyanix Br. Violet-R Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
12. Dyanix Cyanine-B Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd
13. Polafix Navy Blue-BS Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd
14. Polafix Red-3BS 150% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd
15. Polafix Yellow-3RS 150% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd
16. Polazol Black-B 150% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd
17. Polazol Black-GR 110% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd
18. Polazol Black-GRN 200% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd
19. Polazol Super Black-G Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd
20. Reactive-Red 3BSN -150% Aim Tech
21. Reactive-yellow 3RS-150% Aim Tech
22. Reactive Black –GR-150% Aim Tech
23. Reactive-Deep Red SB Aim Tech
24. Reactive Black –B-150% Aim Tech
25. ReactiveBlack-WNN Aim Tech
26. Rifalon Black-HWR Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
27. Rifalon Yellow Brown HW Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
28. Rifalon Rubine HW Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
29. Rifalon Yellow Brown S2RL 150 Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
30. Rifalon Blue EFBL Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
31. Rifalon Red EFBL Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
32. Rifalon Blue ACE Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
33. Rifalon Blue-HW Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
34. Rifalon Bluw-HW Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
35. Rifazol Blue EDRS Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
36. Rifazol Blue RDN Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
37. Rifazol Yellow RDN Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
38. Rifacoin Red HE-7B Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
Page 33
39. Rifacoin Yellow HE4G Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
40. Rifalon Navy Blue-HER Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
41. Elbezol Black –B-150% Elbe International Co. Ltd.
42. Elbezol Super Black –LCG Elbe International Co. Ltd.
43. Elbezol Super Black –HG Elbe International Co. Ltd.
44. Elbezol Red-3BSN-150% Elbe International Co. Ltd.
45. Elbezol Yellow 3RS-150% Elbe International Co. Ltd.
46. Imcozin Blue ENR-A Impocolor Dyes & Chemicals
47. Imcozin Red E-3BF Impocolor Dyes & Chemicals
48. Imcozin N/Blue E-2G Impocolor Dyes & Chemicals
49. Novacron Blue Ts 3G Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
50. Novacron Navy H2G Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
51. Novacron Navy WB Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
52. Novacron Navy FN BN Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
53. Avitera Yellow SE Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
54. Terasil Black BFE Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
55. Terasil Blue BGE 01 Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
56. Terasil Blue WBL-S Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
57. Terasil Blue WW-2GS Huntsman (Swiss Colour)
58. Bemacron Blue SBB CHT ( R.H Corporation )
59. Bemacron Black STL CHT ( R.H Corporation )
60. Bemacron Blue SBGL CHT ( R.H Corporation )
61. Solacion Crimcion –HEXL Chemitech Services
62. Solacion Blue – HEGN Chemitech Services
63. Jakazol Yellow LD Specialty Dyes & Chemical
64. Procion RED VEL Scarlet Service
65. Tanazym CS Tanatex Chemicals (India)
4.6 Prices of Dyes:
The prices of the dyes is very confidential matter of the industry. They are not interested to flash
the data. So we could not collect the prices of dyes.
Page 34
4.7 Garments Division Material:
Necessary Trims & Accessories in Sewing Section:
 Sewing Thread
 Lace
 Elastic
 Movilon Tape
 Back Tape
 Balvet Tape
 Twill Tape
 Goas Gant Tape
 Shading Tape
 Cotton Shoulder Tape
 Oven Tape
 Care Label
 Size Label
 Interlining
 Button
Necessary Finishing Accessories:
 Hang tag
 Price tag
 Tissue paper
 Poly bag
 Carton
 Hanger
 Gum tape
 Barcode sticker
 Tack pin
 Lock pin
 Power sticker
 Yes sticker
Page 35
CHAPTER FIVE
Production planning sequence & operation
5.1 KNITTING SECTION:
5.1.1 Knitting:
Knitting is the interloping of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The length wise columns of
stitches are called wales; the cross wise rows of stitches are called courses. Weft knits are those fabrics in
which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarn, while warp knits are those in which the wales
are composed of single strand of yarn. Gauge is defined as the number of needles in one inch of cloth. The
higher the gauge, the more compact and finer is the cloth.
5.1.2 Knitting Types:
There are two types-
 Weft knitting: In weft knitted structure, a horizontal raw of loops can be made by using one thread
and the thread runs in horizontal direction.
 Warp knitting: In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a
different thread and the no. of thread used to product such a fabric is at least equal to the number
of loops in horizontal raw. The thread runs thoroughly in a vertical direction.
Weft knit Warp knit
Page 36
5.1.3 Process Flow Chart of Knitting:
SAMPLE FABRIC
DESIGN & YARN ANALYSIS
MACHINE SELECTION
PREPARATING M/C FOR SPECIFIC
DESIGN
SMAPLE FABRIC PRODUCTION
SAMPLE APPROVAL
BULK ORDER SHEET RECIEVED
FROM MERCHANDISER
YARN QUALITY CHECK
MAKING KNITTING PROGRAM
ACCORDING TO ORDER SHEET
PLACE THE YARN IN CREEL
MACHINE SETTING AS PER
DESIGN & GSM
FABRIC PRODUCTION
FABRIC INSPECTION
GREY FABRIC DELIVERY TO
STORE
Page 37
5.1.4 Organogram of Knitting Section:
DGM
AGM
Manager
Deputy Manager
Asst. Manager
Sen. Production Officer
Production Officer
Incharge
Supervisor
Sen. Operator
Operator
Asst. Operator
Helper
Page 38
5.1.5 Layout Plan of Circular Knitting Machine Floor-1:
Page 39
5.1.6 Layout Plan of Circular Knitting Machine Floor-2:
Page 40
5.1.7 Layout Plan of Flat Knitting Machine:
Page 41
5.1.8 Shifting System:
 AGM, Manager, Production officer, Supervisors: 09.00 am to 07.00 pm
 Operators, Helpers, Fitter men and others workers:
Shift Name Time
A 7.00 am - 2.00 pm
B 2.00 pm – 10.00 pm
C 10.00 pm – 7.00 am
5.1.9 Responsibilities of Production Officer (Knitting):
He works with a troop of operators, helpers, and fitter men etc. to finish the target production
 Directly related with production, manpower
 Follow up knitting production
 Decide every machine utilization during production
 Regular observation of the knitting floor
 Follow up the program schedule
 Control the in charge, supervisors, operators and helper of knitting section
 Explain to the Sr. PO for any type of production hamper
5.1.10 Knitting Machine Types:
 Circular knitting machine ( single jersey )
 Single Jersey
 Engineering Stripe/ Auto Stripe Single Jersey
 Circular knitting machine ( double jersey )
 Double Jersey
 Engineering Stripe rib/ Interlock
 Flat knitting machine
 Computerized flat knitting
 Computerized semi-jacquard
Page 42
5.1.11 Different parts of knitting machine:
Creel: Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Yarn package are stored and ready to feed in the
machine.
Figure: Creel
VDQ Pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of the product.
Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves
towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M
will increase.
Figure: VDQ Pulley
Pulley Belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.

Figure: Pulley Belt
Page 43
Brush: Its clean the pulley belt
Figure: Brush
Tension Disk: It confronts the tension of the supply yarn.
Figure: Tension Disk
Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion: It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine
instantly when a yarn is broken
Figure: Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion
Yarn Guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the needle.
Figure: Yarn Guide
Page 44
MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.
Figure: MPF Wheel
MPF: It is manager positive feed. It is also an important part of the machine. It’s give positive
feed to the machine.
Figure: MPF
Feeder Ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together.
Figure: Feeder Ring
Feeder: Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.
Figure: Feeder
Page 45
Needle Track: Where all Needles is placed together in a decent design.
Figure: Needle Track
Needle: It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help the yarn to create a loop. And
by this way fabric are produce. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old loop
from the hook, and received the new loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then enclosed
in the needle hook as the needle starts to descend.
Figure: Needle
Sinker: It is most important element of the machine. Its help to loop forming, knocking over and
holding down the loop.
Figure: Sinker
Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together.
Figure: Sinker Ring
Page 46
Cam Box: Where the cam are set horizontally.
Figure: Cam Box
Cam: Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating
action for the needles and other elements.
Figure: Cam
Lycra Attachment Device: Lycra is placed here. And feeding to the machine.
Figure: Lycra Attachment Device
Lycra Stop Motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is break.
Figure: Lycra Stop Motion
Page 47
Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear.
Figure: Cylinder
Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.
Figure: Cylinder Balancer
Uniwave Lubrication: The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles, cam
tracks, lifters and other knitting machine components.
Figure: Uniwave Lubrication
Adjustable Fan: This part removes lint, hairy fibre from yarn and others. To clean the dust by
air flow.
Figure: Adjustable Fan
Page 48
Expander: To control the width of the knitted fabric. No distortion of the knitting courses.
Figure: Expander
Needle Detector: This part detect the any type of faults of needles.
Figure: Needle Detector
Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose.
Figure: Air Gun Nozzle
Tension Meter: Which is used to measure the tension of yarn and spandex.
Figure: Tension Meter
Page 49
5.1.12 Some Pictures of knitting section:
Figure: Double Jersey Circular Knitting M/C Figure: Single Jersey Circular Knitting M/C
Figure: Balance Figure: Matsuya Flat Knitting Machine
Figure: Fabric Inspection M/C
Page 50
5.1.13 Types of Knitted Fabric Produced By “AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd”:
 Plain Single Jersey
 1*1 Rib
 2*2 Rib
 Interlock
 Pique
 Fleece
 French Terry
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Waffle
 Mesh
 Lycra Single Jersey
 Lycra Rib
 Feeder Stripe
 Engineering Stripe
5.1.14 Different Types of Knitting Faults:
Defect Image
Holes
Barrie
Broken Needle
Dropped Stitch
Fly Yarn
Page 51
Oily Spot
Knots
Thin Yarn
Thick Yarn
5.1.15 Types of Knitted Stripe and Their Differences:
There are two types of knitted stripes
 Feeder Stripe
 Engineering Stripe
Feeder Stripe Engineering Stripe
Knitted on general circular knitting machine Knitted on auto/ engineering stripe machine
We can use a limited stripe or courses
Maximum 5 cm repeat length
Bigger than 5 cm
Theoretically: 16000 colored stripes
Practically: 500 colored stripes
The price is comparatively lower The price is substantially higher
Page 52
5.1.16 Different Types of Knitting Faults & Remedies:
Name of faults Cause of faults Remedies
Hole mark 1. Due to yarn crack or
breakage
2. Driving loop formation
yarn break in the region of
needle hook
3. Due to incompact count of
yarn or regarding structure,
gauge, course & density
4. Badly knit & badly feeder
setting
1. Yarn should be uniform
and strong
2. Proper count should be use
3. Correctly set of yarn feed
4. Knot should be guide
properly
Needle mark 1. Breakage of needle
2. Bending of needle hook
1. Needle should be straight
2. Broken latch needle should
be avoided
Sinker marks 1. Corrode sinker cannot hold
new loop, as a result sinker
mark comes
2. If sinker head bend then
sinker mark come
1. Sinker should be changed
2. Eliminate band sinker
Drop stitch 1. Defective needle
2. Improper yarn feeding
3. Take down mechanism too
loose
4. Insufficient yarn tension
1. Needle should be straight
& well
2. Proper feeding assurance
3. Compact take up & fabric
tension
Oil stain 1. When oil lick through the
needle trick then it pass on to
the fabric
1. Ensure that oil should not
pass on the fabric
Yarn contamination 1. If yarn contain foreign
yarn, it remains even after
finishing
2. Due to count minimizing
1. Avoid count mixing
2. Faultless spinning
Pin hole 1. Due to latch distortion pin
hole comes
1. Change the needle
Cloth fault out 1. Cloth fault –out occur after
drop stitch due to closed
latch. Where remove the yarn
out of the hook
1. Latch should be active
Page 53
Grease stain 1. Improper greasing
2. Excess greasing
1. Proper greasing
Yarn tension 1. Un-uniform yarn tension
produce faulty fabrics
1. Maintain same yarn tension
Fly yarn 1. Too much fly adhere to the
fabric which causes faults
1. Blowing should clean the
yarn.
5.1.17 GSM Control of Knitted Fabric:
 When the diameter of VDQ (Variable Diameter for Quality) pulley increases then the GSM
of fabric reduce due to more loop length.
 When the diameter of VDQ (Variable Diameter for Quality) pulley reduce then the GSM
of fabric increases due to small loop length.
5.1.18 Different Type of Cam Arrangement:
Single Jersey (plain):
Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c
Needle Type: latch needle
Cam Used: Knit cam
K K K K
K K K K
K K K K
K K K K
(For 4 butt needle)
Single Lacoste:
Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c
Needle Type: latch needle
Cam Used: Knit & tuck cam
Repeat: 4 course
Page 54
K T K K
K K K T
K T K K
K K K T
(For 4 butt needle)
Double Lacoste:
Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c
Needle Type: latch needle
Cam Used: Knit & tuck cam
Repeat: 6 course
K K K K T T
K T T K K K
K K K K T T
K T T K K K
(For 4 butt needle)
Polo Pique:
Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c
Needle Type: latch needle
Cam Used: Knit & tuck cam
Repeat: 4 course
K K T T
T T K K
K K T T
T T K K
(For 4 butt needle)
Page 55
3-Thread Fleece:
Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c
Needle Type: latch needle
Cam Used: Knit, miss & tuck cam
Repeat: 6 course
K k T K K M
K K M K K M
K K M K K T
K K M K K M
(For 4 butt needle) Here, k cam is used for binding purpose
French Terry:
Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c
Needle Type: latch needle
Cam Used: Knit, miss & tuck cam
Repeat: 4 course
K T K M
K M K M
K M K T
K T K M
(For 4 butt needle)
Page 56
5.1.19Production parameter:
 Machine Diameter
 Machine rpm (revolution per minute)
 No. of feeds or feeders in use
 Machine Gauge
 Count of yarn
 Required time (M/C running time)
 Machine running efficiency
5.1.20 Knitting Machine Production Calculation:
Production/shift =
Number of feeder x RPM x 3.14 x Diameter x Gauge x Stitch length(mm)x 60 x 8 x Efficiency(%)
10 x 2.54 x Count x 840 x 36 x 2.204
Efficiency Calculation:
Efficiency =
Actual production
Calculated production
x 100%
Example:
Calculated production/shift =
96 x 22 x 3.14 x 30 x 20 x 2.75 x 60 x 8
10 x 2.54 x 34 x 840 x 36 x 2.204
x 100%
=91 kg/shift
Actual production =76 kg/shift
Machine efficiency =
Actual production
Calculated production
x 100%
=
76
91
x 100%
=84%
Page 57
5.2 BATCHING OR BATCH SECTION:
5.2.1 Batching or Batch:
“A group of units of products of the same type, structure, color and finish, class and
composition, manufactured under essentially the same conditions and essentially at the same
time, and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing.”
5.2.2 Types of Batching:
1. Solid batch
2. Assort batch
5.2.3 Function or Purpose of Batch Section:
1. To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
2 .Turn the grey fabric if require.
3. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria –
o Order sheet (Received from buyer)
o Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
o MACHINE capacity
o MACHINE available
o Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
o Emergency
4. To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
5. To keep records for every previous dyeing.
5.2.4 Proper batching criteria:
- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing Machine.
- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & Machine stoppage time.
- To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
- To use a particular Machine for dyeing same shade.
5.2.5 Batch management
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under
consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing
manager. Sometime planning is adjusted according to Machine condition or emergency.
Page 58
5.3 COLOR LAB SECTION:
5.3.1 Color Lab:
Color is the pre stage of dyeing procedure. In color lab recipe is prepared for specific fabric
to achieve desired shade or color according to the buyer.
5.3.2 Sequence of Lab Operation:
A number of operations are done in lab section. These are-
Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the technician decision.
1. Swatch receives: Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab section
through the merchandiser.
Swatch receives (physical
std. Or reflectance value)
Fabrics & dyes selection
Recipe prediction
Sampling & pipetting
Dyeing
Dispatch
Page 59
2. Fabric & dye selection: According to the buyer swatch , the type of fabric is
selected & the dye selection depends on the following factor:
a. The dye stuff contains “Metamerism” or not.
b. The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color.
c. Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produce particular color.
d. The cost of dye stuff.
3. Recipe prediction: Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or
Spectrophotometer.
a. By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer.
b. Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found with the
best suitable recipe comes first & then others.
b. If the recipe shows “Metamerism” then changes the selected dye.
4. Sampling & pipetting: According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes & chemicals are
weighted & stock solutions are made. Then pipe ting is done according to the recipe. Stock
solutions are made according to the recipe%.
5. Dyeing: After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted fabric is taken
in sample dyeing Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt. 10gm & liquor
ratio 1:8.
6. Dispatch: After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by spectrophotometer or by
eye vision in verified matching cabinet. If it shows “Metamerism” then recipe correction is
done & again samples are prepared until no “Metamerism” & shade match occur. Then in a
lab dip card 3 samples are attached. One card is sent to merchandiser & another to buyer
through merchandiser.
If the buyer chooses the sample then the recipe is send to the dyeing section for bulk
production through lab dip program card.
Page 60
5.3.3 Working Flow Chart of Color Lab:
Fail
Collect Swatch from Merchandiser
Recipe Prediction (Data Color)
Recipe Calculation
Pipetting
Machine Load
Machine Unload (Soda Dosing)
Machine Load
Dyeing Finish
After Treatment
Dryer
Ironing
Lab dip Submit to Buyer
Lab Approved
Lab dip Sent to Dyeing Floor
Rejection
Light Box
Page 61
5.3.4 Lab Dyeing Procedure for Cotton:
Swatch receives
Recipe prediction
Pipetting
Add leveling agent &
salt
Took fabric (Left for
20 min)
Add soda
Load on m/c (At
60°C, run 60 min)
Unload
Cold wash
Hot wash at 95°C
with detergent
Cold wash
Squeezing
Drying
Page 62
5.4 PHYSICAL LAB SECTION:
5.4.1 Fabric Strength Test:
Sample Preparation:
 At first 4 sample (20x5) cm is cut.
 Then draw a vertical line up to 10cm from the middle part of the sample.
 After that draw a horizontal line below 2.5cm from top of the sample.
 Then cut the vertical line up to 10cm.
Fig: Fabric Strength Tester
Working Procedure:
 At first test sample are placed into two jaws. The upper jaw is moveable and lower jaw is
fixed. The distance between one jaws to another jaw is 10cm.
 Then apply force until tearing the marked line.
 Finally, we get the strength of the fabric.
5.4.2 Pilling Test:
Sample Preparation:
 At first 4 sample (5x5) cm is cut.
 Then this sample is entangling into a tube which is attached by PVC tape.
Page 63
 After that sample is placed into pilling box and start the machine where at least 18, 00
revolutions are given.
 Finally asses the sample by giving the rating (1-5).
Figure: Pilling Tester
5.4.3 PH Test:
 At first, take a PH
paper.
 Then immerse this PH
paper into dyeing solution.
 After that, we will match this PH
paper with PH
scale.
 Finally, we can measure the exact PH
of the solution.
Page 64
5.4.4 Rubbing Test
Figure: Crock Meter
 At first, a dyed sample (15× 5)cm is placed on the base of the crock meter.
 Then a un-dyed crocking cloth (5× 5)cm is attached to the finger( Which is used for
rubbing action) of the crocking cloth which is white, plain weave, scoured, de-sized,
bleached but without finishing.
 Rubbing is done to & fro motion for both warp and weft way, 10 cycles at 10 second that
mean 20 rubs in 20 s & finger pressure on the sample is 9 N.
5.4.5 Perspiration Test
Figure: Perspirometer
 At first perspiration solution that can be acidic or basic is taken into per-spirometer which
is 50 times the sample weight.
 Put the sample into solution 30 minute at room temperature.
 Then the liquor is drained and places the sample between two glass plate and applied 4.5
Kg pressure on the plate and gives the screw.
 After that perspirometer is kept into an incubator for 4 hrs. At (37±2)℃ temperature.
 Finally, take out the sample and dry.
 Then assess the sample by gray scale.
Page 65
5.5 DYEING SECTION:
5.5.1 Organogram of Dyeing Section:
AGM
Sr.
Manager
Asst.
Manager
Production
Officer
Shift
Incharge
Supervisor
Sr.
Operator
Operator
Helper
Page 66
5.5.2 Layout Plan of Dyeing Section:
Page 67
5.5.3 Working Flow Chart for Dyeing:
BATCHING
SELECT MACHINE
NO.
FABRIC LOADING
SELECT PRODUCTION
PROGRAMME
PRETREATMENT
SELECT RECIPE FOR
DYEING
RECIPE CONFIRMED
BY DM/PO
DYEING
POST TREATMENT
UNLOAD
Page 68
5.5.4 Picture of Dyeing Section:
Picture of Dyeing Section
Page 69
5.5.5 Cotton Dyeing Procedure:
Scouring & Bleaching- 95c*60
↓
Normal hot wash- 70c * 20
↓
Acetic Acid- 50c*20
↓
Enzyme Wash- 50c*60
↓
Normal wash- 70c * 20
↓
Dye bath- 60c*20
↓
Color dosing- 60c*30
↓
Run at- 60c* 30
↓
Salt dosing- 60c* 20
↓
Run at- 60c*15
↓
Soda dosing- 60c*15
↓
Swatch cutting
↓
Rinsing- 10min
↓
Normal wash- 40c*10
↓
N.S.K Hot wash- 95c* 30
↓
Acetic Acid- 50c*20
↓
Fixing- 40c* 20
↓
Softener- 40c*30
Page 70
5.5.6 Viscose Dyeing Procedure:
Scouring- 90c*30
↓
Normal hot wash- 70c*20
↓
Acid wash- 50c*20
↓
Dye bath- 60c*40
↓
Color dosing- 60c*40
↓
Salt dosing- 60c*20
↓
Soda dosing- 60c*60
↓
Shade matching- 90 min
↓
Color hot wash- 80c*30
↓
Acid wash- 50c*20
↓
Softener- 40c*20
↓
Unload
Page 71
5.5.7 Polyester Dyeing Procedure:
Scouring & Bleaching- 95c*60
↓
Normal hot wash- 70c*20
↓
Acetic Acid- 50c*20
↓
Dye Bath- 50c*10
↓
Color dosing- 50c*30
↓
Heating up to- 130c*60
↓
Reduction- 80c* 20
↓
Enzyme wash- 80c*20
↓
Dye bath- 60c*20
↓
Color dosing- 60c*30
↓
Run at- 60c* 30
↓
Salt dosing- 60c* 20
↓
Run at- 60c*15
↓
Soda dosing- 60c*15
↓
Swatch cutting
↓
Rinsing- 10min
↓
Page 72
Normal wash- 40c*10
↓
N.S.K Hot wash- 95c* 30
↓
Acetic Acid- 50c*20
↓
Fixing- 40c* 20
↓
Softener- 40c*30
↓
Unload
Page 73
5.5.8 Dyeing Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used in Dyeing Section:
Name of dyeing chemicals Example Functions
Scouring agent Caustic soda, Sodium
bicarbonate (NaHCO₃)
The scouring agent is used to
removing natural impurities
such as dirt, dust, fat, wax
etc.
Acid Sulfuric acid (H2SO4),
Hydrochloric acid (HCl).
Acid is used to control the pH
(1-7). Acid decreases the pH
of the solution. To neutralize
the solution
Electrolyte/ Salt Sodium chloride (NaCl),
Hydrochloric acid, Sodium
hydroxide.
Increase the exhaustion rate
of dying process. The amount
of salt depends on shade
percentage of the material.
Antifoaming agent Silicone(Si), Glycol Antifoaming agent is used to
preventing the foam
formation during, printing
bleaching. The foam formed
reduces the dying take up
percentage.
Sequestering agent Amino-carboxylic acids,
Hydroxyl-carboxylic acids.
Sequestering agent is used to
reducing hardness of water.
Wash/ Soaping agent Detergent The soaping agent is used for
washing to remove unfixed
dye from the material surface.
Soda ash Sodium carbonate, Na2CO3 It can be used in dying to help
the dye bond to the fabric
effectively.
Levelling agents Suffocated oils, carboxylic
acid, silicone etc.
Leveling agent is used to
controlling the exhaustion
rate of dye so that it can
penetrate evenly and slowly.
Anti-creasing agent Lubricant To reduce creasing tendency.
Page 74
5.5.9 Different Types of Dyeing Faults & Remedies:
Name of Faults Causes of Faults Remedies
Uneven Dyeing Uneven pretreatment (uneven
scouring & bleaching).
Improper color dosing.
Using dyes of high fixation
property.
Uneven heat-setting in case of
synthetic fibers.
Lack of control on dyeing
Machine.
By ensuring even
pretreatment.
By ensuring even heat-setting
in case of synthetic fibers.
Proper dosing of dyes and
chemicals.
Proper controlling of dyeing
Machine.
Batch to Batch Shade
Variation
Fluctuation of Temperature.
Improper dosing time of dyes
& chemicals.
Batch to batch weight
variation of dyes and
chemicals.
Dyes lot variation.
Improper reel speed, pump
speed, liquor ratio.
Improper pretreatment.
Use standard dyes and
chemicals.
Maintain the same liquor
ratio.
Follow the standard
pretreatment procedure.
Identical dyeing procedure
should be followed for the
same depth of the Shade.
The pH, hardness and sodium
carbonate content of supply
water should check daily.
Patchy Dyeing Effect Entanglement of fabric.
Faulty injection of alkali.
Improper addition of color.
Due to hardness of water.
Due to improper salt addition.
Dye migration during
intermediate dyeing.
Uneven heat in the machine,
etc.
By ensuring proper
pretreatment.
Proper dosing of dyes and
chemicals.
Heat should be same
throughout the dye liquor.
Proper salt addition.
Page 75
Roll to Roll Variation Poor migration property of
dyes.
Improper dyes solubility.
Hardness of water.
Faulty Machine speed, etc.
Use standard dyes and
chemicals.
Proper Machine speed.
Use of soft water.
Crease Mark Poor opening of the fabric
rope.
Shock cooling of synthetic
material.
If pump pressure & reel speed
is not equal.
Due to high speed Machine
running.
Maintaining proper reel sped
& pump speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling
the temperature.
Reducing the Machine load.
Higher liquor ratio.
Dye Spot Improper Dissolving of dye
particle in bath.
Improper Dissolving of
caustic soda particle in bath.
By proper dissolving of dyes
& chemicals.
By passing the dissolved
dyestuff through a fine
stainless steel mesh strainer,
so that the large un-dissolved
particles are removed.
Softener Mark Improper mixing of the
Softener.
Improper running time of the
fabric during application of
softener.
Entanglement of the fabric
during application of softener.
Maintaining proper mixing of
the softener.
Lower rate rising and cooling
the temperature.
Higher liquor ratio.
Wrinkle Mark Poor opening of the fabric
rope.
Shock cooling of synthetic
material.
Maintaining proper reel speed
& pump speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling
the temperature.
Higher liquor ratio.
Page 76
5.6 DYEING FINISHING SECTION:
5.6.1 Finishing:
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which
all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the
market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every
kind of fiber.
5.6.2 Objective of finishing:
Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc.
Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its softness, suppleness,
fullness, etc.
Wearing qualities, none — soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.
Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing, flame proofing, etc.
Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
Increasing the weight of the cloth.
5.6.3 Layout Plan of Finishing Section:
Page 77
5.6.4 Flow Chart of Finishing Section:
Finishing Section
Open fabric Tube fabric
Slitting machine Dewatering machine
Stentering Drying Machine
Compacting Tube compacting
machine machine
Final Final
Inspection Inspection
Fabric physical & chemical test
Finish fabric store
Finish fabric delivery.
5.6.5 Dyeing Finishing Machine activities:
1. Slitting machine/Dryer
2. Stenter machine (Control GSM & Dia & make fabric surface smooth by using Softener &
heat)
3. Compacting machine (control GSM & Dia without using any chemical. Also called
calendaring)
4. Brushing/ suiding machine (back side brush is called brushing & face side brush is called
suiding/ pitch finish)
5. QC light check.
Page 78
5.6.6 Picture of Finishing Section:
Slitting Machine Stenter Machine
Compactor Machine Brushing Machine
Page 79
5.6.7 Chemical Used in Finishing Section:
5.6.8 Heat Setting Parameter:
5.6.9 Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Stenter Machine:
Fabric Type GSM Dia Temperat Over Padder Speed Blower rpm
ure Feed Pressue (rpm)
Single jersey 115-150 2”+ 110-140 40-45% 2 bar 30-35 1100-1300
Single jersey 160-220 2”+ 120-170 40-45% 2.5 bar 25-30 1200-1400
Lycra Single 160-200 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 25-30 1200-1400
jersey
Lycra Single 200-250 4”+ 140-160 50% 2 bar 24-28 1200-1400
jersey
Pique 160-200 3”+ 130-160 40-45% 1.5-2bar 25-30 1200-1400
Lycra Pique 190-220 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400
Fleece/Terry 260-300 4”+ 140-170 40-45% 2 bar 20-25 1300-1400
1x1 Rib 160-220 2”+ 130-160 45% 2 bar 24-28 1300-1400
2x2 Rib 190-220 2”+ 140-160 45% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400
Interlock 190-220 3”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400
Chemical Name Function
Softener To soft the fabric.
GSP Especially soft the polyester fabric.
EMA To prevent yellowing specially for deep color shade.
Fiber name Temperature
CVC 180℃
Polyester 190℃
Viscose 180℃
Page 80
5.6.10 Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Open Compactor Machine:
Fabric type Color Speed Over Feed Temperature Blanket Teflon
Pressure Pressure
Single White 15-18 25-30 90-110 1.5-2bar 36psi
jersey Color 15-18 25-30 110-120
Pique White 15-18 30-35 100 1.5-2bar 36psi
(s/j,d/j) Color 15-18 30-35 110-120
Lycra s/j White 12-16 Full 100-110 1.5-2bar 36psi
Color 12-16 over feed 100-120
1x1 Rib White 15-20 20-30 100 1.5-2bar 36psi
Color 15-20 20-30 110-120
2x2 Rib White 12-15 25-30 25- 100 1.5-2bar 36psi
Color 12-15 30 110-120
Interlock White 12-16 Full 100 1.5-2bar 36psi
Color 12-16 over feed 110-120
Page 81
5.7 SAMPLE SECTION:
 The style done by designer or developer.
 Particular purchase order.
 Sample is the specimen of any work.
 Any revision to the style work.
 Sample is a specimen or we can say a part which shows that the whole is look like.
 Confirm with any specific requirement.
 Sample is the physical form of design.
5.7.1 Layout Plan of Sample Section:
Page 82
5.7.2 Organogram of Sample Section:
Manager
Asst. Manager
Shift Incharge
Supervisor
Sr. Operator
Operator
Helper
Page 83
5.7.3 Flow Chart of Sample Section:
Sketch/Design
(It is given by buyer for make sample and products are made according to that style of designed)
Basic block
(Without any allowance)
Working pattern
(To make of garment according to design)
Sample making
(sample is made by sample man)
Basic manufacturing difference
(Critical path is identify)
Consumption
(Marker man make marker and calculate the consumption)
Costing
(To estimate the making charge, fabric costing, trimmings and profit)
Approved sample
(Sample approved by buyer)
Page 84
5.7.4 Types of Sample:
Proto Sample:
Initial sample just to see the capabilities of the factory whether can make such sample and style
or not.
Fit sample:
To see the fittings of the garments especially in the dummy as such all the measurement gets the
first priority.
Size set sample:
All size are made individually in a set that is called size set sample.
Counter sample:
Mainly represents the sample which is made according to the measurement of approved size set
or pre-production sample.
Pre-production sample:
Pre-production sample have all sizes including all colors of fabric.
Production sample:
During production we should collect sample from production floor for sending it to buyer, these
are called production sample.
Test sample:
These are the samples pulled out from the bulk to carry out varies types of lab test of the
garments.
Shipment sample:
After final inspection when we ship out the goods to buyer’s destination 2 pieces of sample of
any size should be sent to buyer by air in advance that is called shipment sample.
After wash sample:
These are samples sent to the buyer after either dry or wet wash to approve the wash quality.
Page 85
5.7.5 The Details Attach to the Garments Sample:
After the conformation of order ,each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached
to it, with the help of tag .It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded
and what supplement fabric/trim etc. they have used ( If applicable)
 Ref no.
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quality
 Style no/size
 Store
There may be a separate sample department in a company .but as the merchandiser is a person
who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling
Department works under the supervision of merchandising department .Also as the sample is to
be made according to the buyers price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advice
sampling department suitably.
5.8 PATTERN & MARKER SECTION:
5.8.1 Pattern:
Pattern is the template of each and individual components of the garments, of exact dimensions
which is made on hand paper.
5.8.2 Pattern making depends on:
1. Personal skill.
2. Experience of garments making.
3. Technical and technological knowledge.
4. Knowledge of design analysis.
Page 86
5.8.3 Pattern Making by Hand (Basic T-Shirt):
Process:
 At first, take the measurement of length and width.
 Then take the measurement of front neck drop (A) and back neck drop (B).
 After that take the measurement of neck width (C) and added with front neck drop and
back neck drop.
 Take the measurement of across shoulder (D) and armhole straight (E).
 After that take the measurement of ½ waists (F) which is 40/48 cm down from the HPS.
 Finally, draw a curve by adding E, F & G.
Neck Rib
Page 87
Process:
 At first take the measurement of neck width (A-B).
 Then take the measurement of neck height (A-C).
Sleeve
Process:
 At first, take the measurement of sleeve length (A-B) and width (A-C).
 Then take the measurement of sleeve opening (B-D).
 After that take the measurement of underarm (D-E).
 Finally, draw a curve from (A-E).
5.8.4 Pattern Making By Lectra Modaris:
Process of pattern making by using Lectra Modaris is given bellow-
1. Preparation
2. Sketch
3. Fine Tuning
4. Finalization
5.8.5 Marker Making:
In AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. marker is made by using Lectra Diamino.
Page 88
5.9 CUTTING SECTION:
5.9.1 Layout Plan of Cutting Section:
Page 89
5.9.2 Organogram of Cutting Section:
Page 90
5.9.3 Flow Chart of Cutting Section:
Marker making
Fabric issue
Fabric receive
Fabric input to
cutting floor
Lay making
Set marker on lay
Clamping
Cutting
Inspection
Put sticker on cut
panel/Numbering
Sorting/Binding
Panel Checking
Re-Cutting
Storing
Send to sewing
line
Page 91
5.9.4 Lay Wise Fabric Consumption:
Lay wise consumption
Marker length(cm)x Fabric width(cm)x GSM x Total garments per marker 0r lay x Number of plies
100 x 100 x 1000
Example:
Suppose we have made a 10 pieces marker which length is 350cm? If fabric GSM is 120 and width
72’’ so calculate the fabric consumption for 50 plies?
Solution:
Lay wise consumption =
350 x 182.88 x 120 x 10 x 50
100 x 100 x 1000
= 384 kg
Fabric Lay Requirement Quantity & Relax Time:
Fabric GSM Lay Quantity Relax Time (hr)
S/J (Flat) 120-145 90-100 12-24
Lycra S/J (Flat) 145-180 80-90 24
S/J (Tube) 120-145 45-50 16-24
Lycra S/J (Tube) 145-180 40-45 24
1*1 Rib (Flat) 140-160 70-80 12-24
1*1 Rib (Flat) 165-200 50-60 16-24
1*1 Rib (Tube) 140-160 35-40 16-24
1*1 Rib (Tube) 165-200 25-30 16-24
1*1 Rib (Tube) 200-320 25-30 16-24
Pique (Tube) 160-200 35-40 24
Pique (Flat) 160-200 70-80 24
Interlock (Tube) 140-200 30-40 24
Fleece (All) 280-360 25-30 24
Maximum Cutting Lay Height……………2.5”
Maximum Cutting Lay Length………………07 Yds.
Page 92
5.9.5 Size Wise Cutting Quantity Calculation:
Suppose we have received a production order of 12000 pcs and the order size ratio is S: M: L: XL
respectively 1:2:2:1
Procedure:
 At first, calculate the sum of size ratio.
 Then divided the order quantity by sum of size ratio.
 Finally, multiply the result by particular size ratio.
Example:
For small size=
12000
6
x 1
= 2000
For small size=
12000
6
x 2
= 4000
For small size=
12000
6
x 2
= 4000
For small size=
12000
6
x 1
= 2000
Finally we can write the formula:
Size quantity =
Total order quantity
Sum of size ratio
x Particular size ratio
Page 93
5.9.6 Marker Attachment:
After laying down the specific number of fabric on the cutting table the marker paper is overlaid
on the fabric. Then the marker paper is attached to the fabric by some adhesive.
Observations & Suggestions:
 Excessive manpower allocated in this department.
 Hand shears are used instead of end cutters leading to increasing of manpower need.
Suggestion:
 Keep the length of the spread between 7-8 m. this will help in faster and precise lay.
 Spiral rollers should be used instead of plane surface rollers. To ensure even lay.
 Two different lays of tubular knits can be spread at a time to utilize maximum width laying
capacity of the spreader.
5.9.7 Fabric Cutting:
Fabric cutting methods are as follows:
Manual Method Computerized Method
Scissor Knife Cutting
Round knife water jet
Band knife Laser cutting
Straight knife Plasma torch cutting
Cutting Section Quality Section:
The step by step process by which we check quality in the Cutting Section.
During Cutting:
 Miss cut.
 Matching plies.
 Ragged Cutting.
 Notches.
 Pattern Check.
After Cutting:
 100% part Checking.
 Numbering & Bundle Quality Control.
 Reject Panel Replacement.
Page 94
Summary of Working Procedure of Cutting Section:
 Follow production planning.
 Sample collect from sample section with pattern and garments approved.
 Lay order sheet/ratio sheet fill up by cutting section (fabric width, Item, Color, Size, Style,
etc.).
 Lay order sheet fills up ok then send to cad section for marker making.
 Marker making ok.
 Fabric requisition from cutting section to store for cutting according to plan.
 The fabric is coming in cutting table as per marker and cutting plan.
 Fabric matches to trim card by merchandiser approved fabric width & length as per marker.
 Then layering starts manual & machines all fabric. Pocketing and interlining.
 After lay then spread marker upon on the fabric.
 Marker checks by the pattern in quality people.
 Keep all document make & style, color, & size wise send report to store & sewing line.
 Before cutting cutter man attaches clamp. Gum tap on the layer.
 If marker has drill mark then need to drill.
 Cutting starts by cutterman.
 Then group and ratio wise stricken.
 As per lay, order sheet makes bundle chart and send to i.e. Section for bundle card printing.
 As per bundle chart wise numbering.
 Then panel check.
 If have any fault need to replace cut bundle roll and shade wise then bundle and send to the
line by input girl.
 If has any fusing, embroidery than send to this section.
When the cutting process is complete, the entire garment components are inspected for
required production.
Page 95
5.9.8 Photos of Cutting Section:
Fig-1: Receive Finished Fabric Fig-2: Fabric Spreading
Fig-3: Cutting Scissor Fig-4: Metal Hand Gloves
Fig-5: Straight Knife Cutting Machine Fig-6: Sticker Tagging for Batching
Page 96
5.10 PRINTING SECTION:
5.10.1 Print base on three type:
1) Water base
2) Rubber base
3) Oil base
5.10.2 Printing System:
Screen Printing
Hand screen printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing
5.10.3 Types of Printing:
 Rubber Print
 Pigment print
 Plastisol Print
 Apson Print
 Crack Print
 Discharge Print
 Flock Print
 Foil Print
 Glitter Print
 Hidensity
 Puff Print
 Photo Print
Page 97
5.10.4 Flow Chart of Printing:
Design: In design section, Designer divide the design according to color and print on tracing
paper according to per color on per page. For photo print there will be positive on the place of
tracing paper. For tracing paper solid color & size should be on A3 size. If want to make dot
design, color percentage have to decrease.
Design Expose: Frames are made in design Expose section. Frames make with different types
of mesh fabric according to print. After making frame, TXR apply on mesh fabric. Dry TXR.
Tracing paper put on the frame and heat the frame. Wash the frame & dry. Frames will be
ready for use.
Color Rope:
Pigment print- Pigment pest→ Thickener+ Binder+ Water. Use Oxalic for fixing. Use any
kind of color.
Rubber print- 2 Ready pest→ i) NK Cobalt (594) ii) White pest (101). Use any kind of color
Design
Design
Expose
Color Rope
Apply on
Fabric
Page 98
Discharge print- 2 Ready pest→ i) Fluro Tex DBC (Clear) ii) Floro Tex BEW (White). To
discharge use RNS powder. Use color. Discharge print use on dark color fabric to show real
color.
Foil print- For machine use- plastisy sol Foil pest (ON421) pest.
For Table use- Rubber Foil Pest (SPTOP Nk2)
Plastisy sol print- White & Clear. There are direct color in plastisy sol.
High-density print- We make hydensity print with plastisy sol. This print is make for
density.
Flock print- Ready flock pest (650).
Metallic print- It is used by mixing Metallic powder, MK Binder 60TQ & liquid.
Sublimation print- It’s used in polyester fabric. Its print on 100/80/60 GSM paper.
Glitter print- It’s use by mixing Glitter pest (NK Nesine 6 AN) & Glitter.
5.10.5 Common Printing Defects:
Measuring fault
Print missing
Wrong color
Hand feel not correct
Color migration problem
Not properly attach
Dirty marks
Uneven print
Air bubble
Air hole
Shade variation
Page 99
5.10.6 Major Causes of Printing Defects:
Screen & print body are not in same axis.
Irregular wash of screen frame.
Wrong color recipe.
Insufficient drying of previous color.
Inaccurate composition of fixture.
Improper heat & pressure.
5.11 EMBROIDERY SECTION:
Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or
yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins.
Today, embroidery is most often seen on caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts, denim,
stockings, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available with a wide variety of thread or yarn color.
Page 100
5.11.1 Different Types of Stitch Used in Embroidery Section:
 Run stitch
 Satin stitch
 Tatami stitch
 Motif stitch
 Applique
 Patch
 Hand cutting
 Sequin attach stitch
 Terry EMB
 Chain stitch
 Zigzag stitch.
5.12 SEWING SECTION:
Page 101
5.12.1 Layout Plan of Sewing Floor:
Page 102
5.12.2 Organogram of Sewing Section:
Page 103
5.12.3 Flow Chart of Sewing Section:
Cut Fabric Load in
Sewing Section
Line Plan According to
Style or Design
Marking
Batching According to
Bundle Number
Sewing According to
Garments Design or Style
Quality Inspection
During Sewing
Quality Inspection After
Sewing
Excess Thread Cutting
Remove Dirts & Dusts
from Garments Surface
Quality Audit
Send to Next Process
Page 104
5.12.4 Function of Different Sewing Machine:
Serial Machine Name Function
01. Plain Machine Attaching label into T-shirt, shirt, attaching the zipper,
pocket, placket join, the bottom hem of pant etc.
02. Over Lock Machine T-shirt shoulder joins, side seam of sleeve & body, yoke
join of pant etc.
03. Flat Lock Machine Neck piping of T-shirt (Flat bar), All type of top stitch
(Cylinder), Bottom hem of T-shirt (Compressor) etc.
04. Bar Tack Machine Pocket, fly & loop corner, crutch point etc.
05. Button Hole Machine For making a button hole.
06. Button Attaching Machine For attaching button.
07. Kansai Machine For attaching elastic into waist belt.
5.12.5 Needle Used in Sewing Section:
Serial No. Needle Name Machine Name Length
1 DB x 7 Plain Machine 3.8
2 DB x 9 Plain Machine 3.8
3 DB x 11 Plain Machine 3.8
4 DB x 14 Plain Machine 3.8
5 DC x 7 Over lock M/C 3.4
6 DC x 9 Over lock M/C 3.4
7 DC x 11 Over lock M/C 3.4
8 UY x 7 Flat lock M/C 4.5
9 UY x 9 Flat lock M/C 4.5
10 UY x 11 Flat lock M/C 4.5
11 UY x 14 Flat lock M/C 4.5
12 UO x 11 Kansai Machine 4.2
13 DP x 5 x Button Hole M/C 3.9
14 DP x 17 x 11 Bar tack M/C 4.4
15 DP x 5 x 9 Button Hole M/C 3.9
16 DP x 17 x 11 Bar tack M/C 4.4
Page 105
5.12.6 Sewing Thread Consumption:
For 1” Sewing Required Thread(Inch)
Flat Lock (2T) 12
Flat Lock (3T) 17
Flat Lock (4T) 20-22
Flat Lock (5T) 24
Plain Machine 3
Flat Seam (5T) 28
Over Lock (3T) 15
Over Lock (4T) 18
Over Lock (5T) 22
5.12.7 Different Types of Sewing Faults, Causes and Remedies:
 Skip Stitch
Causes:
 If the distance between one loop to another loop is more.
 It the hook cannot pick the thread timely.
 If the tension varies in lopper and needle thread.
Remedies:
 The timing of hook or lopper with a needle should be adjusted properly.
 Adjust tension properly.
Page 106
 Broken Stitch
Causes:
 Used lower quality thread.
 The improper unwinding of thread from the package.
Remedies:
 Used higher quality thread.
 The Proper unwinding of thread from the package.
 Seam Pucker
Causes:
 When two or more plies of fabrics are sewn together then one ply will be feed more than
other so uneven stitch takes place as a result seam pucker create.
 When two or more layers of fabric are sewn together then one layer shrinks more than
others as a result different seam pucker is formed.
Remedies:
 The improved feed mechanism of the sewing machine.
 Skill operator so that he can handle the fabric properly.
 We have to test both fabrics shrinkage percentage before sewing and it should be less than
2%.
Page 107
 Unequal/Unbalance Stitch
Causes:
 Incorrect thread tension.
 Incorrect passage of thread.
Remedies:
 Adjust thread tension.
 Correct the passage of thread.
 Open Seam
Causes:
 Lack of sewing allowance.
Remedies:
 Taking proper sewing allowance.
Page 108
 Fabric Damage at Seam Line
Causes:
 Mainly due to needle damage we can see this type of fault at seam line.
 For this fabric damage, sewing strength becomes low and due to more fabric damage, fabric
may be tearing off at the sewing line.
Remedies:
 Reduced machine or needle speed.
 Proper selection of needle size, point etc.
 Application of lubricant.
Page 109
5.12.8 Photos of Sewing Section:
Fig-1: Flat Lock Machine Fig-2: Over Lock Machine
Fig-3: Plain Machine Fig-4: Button Attaching Machine
Fig-5: Bar Tack Machine Fig-6: Button Hole Machine
Fig-7: Kansai Sewing Machine Fig-8: Sample (Basic T-shirt)
Page 110
5.13 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING SECTION:
5.13.1 Industrial engineering: according to American institute of industrial engineering’s
(AIIE) defines “industrial engineering is concerned with the design, improvement and
installation of integrated system of men, materials and equipment. It draws upon specializes
knowledge and skills in the mathematical, physical science together with the principles and
methods of engineering analysis and design to specify , predict and evaluate the results to be
obtained from such systems”
5.13.2 Objective of industrial engineering: the prime objective of industrial engineering is to
increase the productivity by eliminating waste and non-value adding operations and improving
the effective utilization of resources.
5.13.3 The activities of industrial engineering: The primary activities are spelled out by AIIE
are:
1. Selection of process and assembling methods.
2. Selection and design of tools and equipment.
3. Design of facilities including plant location, layout of building machines and equipment’s,
material handling system raw materials and finished goods storage facilities. 4
4. Design and improvement of planning and control system for productions, inventory,
quality and plants maintenance and distributing systems.
5. Developing a cost control system such as budgetary control, cost analysis and standard
costing.
6. Performance evaluation.
7. Installation of wage incentives schemes.
5.13.4 The Techniques of Industrial Engineering:
1. Method study: To establish a standard method of performing a job or an operation after
thoroughly analysis of the jobs and to establish the layout of production facilities to have
a uniform flow of material without back tracking.
2. Time study: This is a technique used to establish a standard time for a job or for an
operation.
3. Motion study: This is used to analysis the motion employed by operators do the work.
4. Inventory control: To find the economic lot size and the recorders level for the item so
that the item should be made available to the production at the right time and quantity to
avoid stock out situation and with minimum capital lock up.
Page 111
5. Job evaluation: This is a technique which is used to determine the relative worth of jobs
of the organization to aid in matching jobs and personal and to arrive at sound wage
policy.
6. Ergonomics:
It is concerned with study of relationship between man and his working conditions to
Minimize mental and physical stress. It is concerned with man machine system.
5.13.5 Calculation of SMV, Target & Efficiency
 SMV (Standard Minute Value) :
SMV is the time taken by a qualified worker to perform a specified task in a defined level of
performance.
 SMV calculation:
SMV calculation of a basic T-shirt from a time study sheet of a garments industry. Following
formulas are use-
Normal time =Average observed time × performance rating factor
SMV =Basic time + (Allowance × Basic time)
 Observed time :
Observed time comes from a direct observation by an observer that an operator takes to complete
his/her relevant operation or elements.
 Performance Rating:
Observed rating
Performance rating factor
Standard rating

Page 112
 Target calculation:
 Efficiency Calculation:
5.13.6 Sewing Sequence for a Basic T-Shirt:
Sequence of a Basic T-Shirt is given bellow-
 
60
Capacity
Average of the observed time % of Allowance


No. of worker * work hours *60
Target * Expected Efficiency
SMV

Produced minute *100
Overall Efficiency
Used minutes

 
Produced minute *100
On standard Efficiency
Used minutes – Non productive time

Page 113
SUBTOTAL 25 5.94 TARGET 202
OP
No.
Description M/C Attachment Man or
M/C
QTY
SMV TGT/HR/MC TGT%
(80%)
Total
01. Front & back part
match
HP Hand 1 0.24 250 1 250
02. Care label
attachment at left
seam
S/N Plain feed 1 0.21 286 1 286
03. Both shoulder join
with tape
O/L Pr. feed 1 0.29 207 1 207
04. Both shoulder
scissoring
HP Scissor 1 0.22 273 1 273
05. Neck rib make S/N Plain feed 1 0.19 316 1 316
06. Neck rib fold HP Hand 1 0.18 333 1 333
07. Neck rib join with
body
O/L Pr. feed 2 0.45 133 2 267
08. Back neck piping &
cut
S/N Folder 1 0.21 286 1 286
09. Main lebel make &
back neck mark
S/N Plain feed 1 0.28 214 1 214
10. Back neck piping end
point tack & cut
S/N Plain feed 1 0.28 214 1 214
11. Back neck top setting
& main lebel insert
S/N Plain feed 2 0.45 133 2 267
Machine
Description
Single needle 9
Over lock 8
Flat lock 2
Total
machines
19
Helper(s) 6
Total Man
Power
25
Buyer : H&M
Item : Junior Cotton T-shirt (Adult)
Style Number : 2222389
Fabric Type : Junior/Adult
Order Quantity : 24280 pcs
Finish GSM : 180
Production Rate : 82%
Factory : AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd.
SMV
Operators 4.64
Helpers 1.3
Total SMV 5.94
Page 114
12. Sleeve open hem F/L D. set 1 0.26 231 1 231
13. Thread cut, sleeve &
body match
HP Cutter 1 0.23 261 1 261
14. Sleeve join O/L Pr. feed 2 0.50 120 2 240
15. Side seam O/L Pr. feed 3 0.77 78 3 234
16. Sleeve opening close
tack
S/N Plain feed 1 0.23 261 1 261
17. Sleeve opening press
tack & thread cut
S/N Plain feed 1 0.28 214 1 214
18. Thread cut & body
fold
HP Cutter 1 0.22 273 1 273
19. Bottom hem F/L D. set 1 0.24 250 1 250
20. Thread cut after hem HP Cutter 1 0.21 286 1 268
5.13.7 Sewing Sequence for a Ladies vest:
Sequence of a ladies vest is given bellow-
Page 115
OP
No.
Description M/C Name Man or M/C
QTY
SMV TTL CP/H
01. Care level tack with helper LSA RUMI 2 0.24 0.24 300
02. Care label attachment at left
seam
LSA FATEMA 1 0.21 0.21 353
03. Main label attach at bk nk LSA JORINA 2 0.29 0.29 200
04. Back part bk binding FL KALEDA 1 0.22 0.22 171
05. Front part bk binding FL SAIFUL 2 0.19 0.19 130
06. Right shoulder join OL KOLI 1 0.18 0.18 300
07. Armhole binding front part FL RATNA 2 0.45 0.45 120
08. Armhole binding bk part FL SOHEL 1 0.21 0.21 200
09. Left shoulder join OL SABANA 1 0.28 0.28 300
10. Nk close tack LSA NUR
NAHAR
1 0.28 0.28 214
11. Side seam LSA KORIM 1 0.45 0.45 214
12. Armhole close tack OL BONNA 2 0.26 0.26 73
Machine
Description
Plain machine 14
Over lock 5
Flat lock 7
Total
machines
26
Helper(s) 52
Total Man
Power
78
Buyer : Sainsbury’s
Item : Ladies vest
Style Number : Jer110
Fabric Type : Junior/Adult
Order Quantity : 24280 pcs
Finish GSM : 150
Production Rate : 82%
Factory : AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd.
SMV
Operators 1.92
Helpers 1.3
Total SMV 2.95
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13. Armhole close tack AKRAM 1 0.23 0.23 300
14. Armhole chap tack LSA LILY 1 0.50 0.50 300
15. Hanger loop attach at
shoulder
FL MIZAN 1 0.77 0.77 150
16. Btm hem LSA RAHIMA 1 0.23 0.23 250
17. Both shoulder psn close
tack
LSA KALEDA 1 0.28 0.28 200
18. Ring close at sholder psm LSA JESMIN 1 0.22 0.22 200
19. Ring cattach at chap tack LSA NIRI 1 0.24 0.24 71
20. Shoulder psn piping close LSA SOHEL 1 0.21 0.21 100
5.14 GARMENTS FINISHING SECTION:
Page 117
5.14.1 Flow Process of Garments Finishing:
Style Wise Goods
Received
Trimming
Sucking
Ironing
Hang to Dry
Quality Check
Measurement
Get up Check
Labeling
Metal Detecting
Final Hanger
Moisture Check
Blister
Poly
Hang to Store
Pre-final
Inspection
Final Inspection
Page 118
5.14.2 Chemical Used to Remove Spot from Garments in Finishing Section:
Spot name Chemical used
Oil spot Spot lifter
Dirty spot Thinner
5.14.3 Flow Process of Garments Packing:
Receive finished
garments
Quality check(AQL)
Folding
Poly packing
Cartoning
Apply Scotch Tape on
carton
Packing completed
Page 119
5.14.4 Poly Used in Garments Packing:
 Piece poly
 Size poly
5.14.5 Carton Used for Garments Packing:
According to size:
 Master carton
 Inner carton
 Box carton
According to ply:
 3-ply carton
 5-ply carton
 7-ply carton
5.14.6 Assortment System:
1. Solid Color Solid Size
2. Solid Color Assort Size
3. Assort Color Solid Size
4. Assort Color Assort Size
Page 120
5.14.7 Photos of Finishing:
Fig-1: Remove spot by using Chemical Fig-2: Ironing
Fig-3: Attaching hang tag Fig-4: Inspection
Fig-5: Folding Fig-6: Packing
Page 121
CHAPTER SIX
Quality Assurance System
Page 122
6.1 Quality Assurance:
In AKH GROUP Ltd. is more concern about quality. In this factory quality assurance is
more preferred than quality control, but both are in advancement. This is a system to assure that
products and services meet buyer requirements. To maintain the buyer quality to approve the
sample. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality
of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
6.2 Objective of quality assurance:
 To ensure aligning with the quality standards.
 To plan and systematic quality activities.
 To provide the confidence that the standards will be met.
6.3 Quality Control:
Quality control is the operational techniques and activities that are used to fulfill
requirements for quality.
To control the quality of garments or products to techniques are followed, such as:
 Testing &
 Inspection
6.3.1 Testing:
Maximum garments manufacturers apply inspection method due to high cost of testing
equipment. In AKH GROUP are following the tests, such as:
 Color fastness to light test
 Rubbing test
 Pilling test
 pH test
 Abrasion test
 Phenolic yellowing test
 Color fastness to wash test
 Shrinkage test
 Perspiration test
 Color fastness to saliva test
 Dimensional stability to washing
 Water test
 GSM check
 Color fastness to household laundering
 Pull test
Page 123
6.3.2 Inspection:
Inspection may be defined as the visual examination in relation to some standards.
Mainly inspections are done in three steps in garments industries. The steps are:
1) Raw material Inspection
2) In process inspection
3) Final inspection
1. Raw material inspection:
In garments industries, mainly raw material means fabric but sewing thread, zipper or
chain, interlining, buttons and so on are fall under consideration.
a. Fabric inspection:
There are a number of systems available to inspect the fabric but AKH GROUP
follow the FOUR POINT system:
4 point system Acceptance calculation TTL PST X36X100
0-3’’ 1 UP TO 20 POINTS = A ROLL LENGTH(YDS) X
ACTUAL WIDTH
>3”-6” 2 20-30 POINTS = B
>6”-9” 3 30-40 POINTS = C
>9” 4 ACCEPTABLE
HOLE<1” 2 ABOVE = REJECTED NOT ACCEPTABLE
HOLE>1” 4
2. In process inspection:
It must examine different parts of garments before sewing is called in process inspection.
In AKH GROUP they are following the three steps of garments making to gain the desired
quality:
A. Cutting process inspection: In cutting section quality is insure in two stages:
A.1 Spreading quality control: Following points are checked during spreading.
I. Table marking. II. Ends III. Tension IV. Leaning V. Narrow Goods VI. Counts
VI. Ply height VII. Remnants VIII. Fabric flaws IX. Market placing
A.2 After cutting quality control: After each cutting blocks and bundles are checks on the
following points.
I. Miss-cut II. Ragged cutting III. Pattern checks IV. Matching Plies V. Notches
Page 124
B. Sewing process inspection: The following parameters are also checked in sewing process –
a) Machine check. b) Tension. c) SPI checks d) Needle check. e) Cleanness. d) Table
inspection. f) Inspection before wash.
C. Finishing process inspection: The following parameters are also checked in finishing
process – a) after wash garments must be keep in the box / table covering. b) Thread sucking. c)
Iron inspection. d) Measurements inspection. e) Poly inspection of top of garments.
f) Inspection before cartooning.
3. Final inspection: This is most important to the buyer side. Mainly size, from fitting and other
Defects of a garments are inspected in the final inspection. In final inspection AKH GROUP are
following the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level):
ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL(AQL)
LOT SIZE SAMPLE AQL 1.0 AQL 1.5 AQL 2.5 AQL 4.5 AQL 6.5
2-8 2 0 0 0 0 0
9-15 3 0 0 0 0 0
16-25 5 0 0 0 0 0
26-50 8 0 0 0 0 0
51-90 13 0 0 0 0 0
91-150 20 0 1 1 2 3
151-280 32 1 1 2 3 5
281-500 50 1 2 3 5 7
501-1200 80 2 3 5 7 10
1201-3200 125 3 5 7 10 14
3201-10000 200 5 7 10 14 21
10001-35000 315 7 10 14 21 21
35001-150000 500 10 14 21 21 21
150001-500000 800 14 21 21 21 21
500000-OVER 1250 21 21 21 21 21
6.4 Quality Standard:
There are many different kinds of management systems and quality models. They are
ISO 9001:2008-sets out the requirements of a quality management system.
ISO 9004:2009-focuses on how to make a quality management system more efficient and
effective.
ISO 9000:2005-covers the basic concepts and language.
But AKH GROUP in H&M buyer will not require a full ISO 9001 system is standard which is
used globally and can be read as a reference.
Page 125
6.5 Quality report:
6.5.1 Quality report on cutting:
 Print test report
 Laboratory report
 In line inspection report
 Shrinkage report
 Daily marking checking report
 Daily cut panel measurement report.
 Spreading quality report
6.5.2 Quality report on sewing:
 Inspection report (line and table)
 Defect reduction report
 7 pcs check report
 Daily machine oil remover report
 Quality audit report
 Daily end line DHU (Defect hundred unit) report
 Hourly production report
 Daily rejection report
 Line ways quality in hand report
6.5.3 Quality report on finishing:
 Shrinkage report
 In line inspection report
 Quality audit report
 Sharp tools control log report
 Rejected good status report
 Daily end line DHU report (finishing)
 Final inspection report for garments
 Country ways routine follow up.
6.6 Remarks:
In AKH GROUP does not compromise with quality. They are assuring the best quality
possible in all the processes.
Page 126
CHAPTER SEVEN
Maintenance
Page 127
7.1 Maintenance of Machinery:
Maintenance is the actions taken to prevent a device or component from failing or
repair normal equipment degradation experienced with the operation of the device to keep it in
proper working order all machine & machine parts of knitting, dyeing and garments are
maintained with extreme care. AKH GROUP leads maintenance with a troop of skilled
mechanical fitters.
Three types of maintenance are performed in AKH GROUP. They are;
1. Preventive maintenance
2. Break down maintenance.
3. Schedule maintenance.
1. Preventive maintenance:
Actions performed periodically (or continuously) prior to functional failure to achieve
the desired level of safety and reliability for an item. These actions are performed to prevent or
reduce consequences of failures.
2. Break down maintenance:
Breakdown maintenance is maintenance performed on equipment that has broken
down and is unusable. It may be either planned or it can be unplanned. This type of maintenance
is carried out only when machine remains stop due to-
a. Break down for mechanical fault
b. Break down for design changing
3. Schedule Maintenance:
Every machine has a definite maintenance schedule which is performed after a certain
periodic interval to ensure –
a. Smooth production process
b. Sound running of machine
c. Longer useful life of machine
d. Better quality of product
e. Lower rejection of machine parts
f. Lower load on operator
7.2 Maintenance Routine:
Page 128
7.3 Organogram of Maintenance Section:
7.4 Flow Chart of Maintenance:
GM
AGM
Manager
Asst. Manager
Shift Engineer
Incharge
Supervisor
Operator
Helper
Inform to maintenance department
Detect problem
Problem can be repairing or replacing
Repair can be solved immediately, replacing requires
time
Problem of machinery
Page 129
7.5 Maintenance Procedure:
1) For there is any mechanical fault of machine which is responsible for production
hamper, operator informs mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitters come and observe the
problem firstly, and then they begin to fix it.
2) If mechanical fitters be unable to fix it, then they inform technical in-charge, he
then comes in spot and fix it.
3) For there is any electrical problem of machine or serious founding mechanical
problem, mechanical and electrical department are informed, they come and fix the problem.
They commence at work after informing of knitting manager. There are two mechanical
engineers in the department.
4) For restorative maintenance, senior production officer orders mechanical fitters to fit
required machine for cam and needle arrangement and other necessary requirements in case of
new design development.
7.6 Maintenance Tools/Equipment & Their Function:
Maintenance Tools are that tools used in maintenance of a machine. Different types of
maintenance tools are used in AKH Knitting & Dyeing for different machines every day. Name
of some maintenance tools used in textile machine and their function are given below:
Page 130
Tools Name & function Images
Combination tools (Spanner) :
 It is usually made of forged
steel.
 The size of spanners
denotes the size of the bolt
on which it can work.
Function: Tightening & Loosening of
Nuts & bolts
Socket Ratchet set
Function: Tightening of Nuts & bolts
Slide Wrench :
 They may consist of a slot,
socket, pins, or moveable jaw
for grasping the nut, with the
rest of the tool serving as a
handle applying pressure.
Function: Tightening & Loosening of
Nuts & bolts
Hammer :
Function: Forging hot metal, riveting,
bending, Straightening, peening,
stretching and swaging.
Page 131
Screw driver:
 Made of steel.
 The blade is shaped on flattened
to fit recesses in the head of
screws on bolts.
Function: Is a hand tool, designed to
turn or release screws or bolts.
L-Key:
 Generally made of steel.
Function: For loosing & tighten the
screw
Steel Tape:
Function: To measure the length
Pliers:
Function: To grip anything & cut metal
wires
Hacksaw blade:
Function: To cut any metal thing
Punch:
Function: Used to fit any worm out shaft
Oil Can & Grease Gun :
Function: For Oiling & greasing of
moving Parts of M/C.
Page 132
Drill M/C and Drill bit:
Function: For Drilling.
Toolbox:
Function: Generally all necessary
maintenance tools are kept in a box it is
called tool box. Generally it is made of
steel.
7.7 Remarks:
AKH GROUP controls the machine problem in a systematic way. Because of standard
machine maintenance system they suffer less.
Page 133
CHAPTER EIGHT
Utility Services
Page 134
8.1 Machine Description & Capacity of Utility Section:
Sl. No. Machine Name Brand Model Origin Capacity Qty.
1 Air Compressor Kaeser ASD‐47 Germany 11 Bar 5
2 Air Compressor Kaeser ASD‐32 12 Bar 3
3 Air Compressor AtlasCopco GA‐30C India 10 Bar 1
4 Air Dryer Kaeser TC‐44 Germany 10 Bar 3
5 Air Dryer Kaeser TD‐61 Germany 18 Bar 5
6 Air Dryer Friul air
dryer
DFE‐61 India 16 Bar 1
7 BOILER Thermak SM‐80 B India 8 Ton 1
8 BOILER Forbus JNM‐891 India 6300 kg 1
9 BOILER Hurst 13952 American 1252 kg 1
10 BOILER Modan Bangladesh 250 kg 1
11 BOILER Thir mooil H‐2000 Germany 2000 kg 1
12 BOILER Hurst 16440 American 782 kg 1
13 Generator Caterpillar 3516 U.S.A 1030 KW 1
14 Generator Jenbacher J 320GS Austria 1065 KW 1
15 Generator Caterpillar 700 F U.S.A 508 KW 1
16 Generator Olympian GFP700‐1 U.K 508 KW 1
17 Generator Scania sp 500sc‐s Sweden 400 KW 1
18 REB Energypac Banladesh 400 KW 1
AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd has various types of utility service starting from Steam generator,
Boiler, Air Compressor & other types of machines used for knitting, dyeing, finishing & sewing
process. These utilities help to facilitate the production process as well as material management
system. Heavy machineries like boiler, steam generators are in ground floor while the exhaust
fan, cooling and humidifying air conditioner & other small machineries situated in required
floor.
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Industrial Attachment

  • 1. Page 1 National Institute of Textile Engineering &Research (NITER) Nayarhat, Savar, Dhaka 1350 REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT DURATION: 2 MONTHS (10TH JANUARY TO 9TH MARCH, 2017) WITH AKH KNITTING & DYEING LTD. (AKH GROUP) 92, Rajphulbaria, Tetuljhora, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Phone: 7741727, 7741728, Fax: 7710788 SUPERVISING TEACHER Md. Shamsuddin Kayes Chowdhury LECTURER APPAREL MANUFACTURING ENGINEERING National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research Nayarhat,Savar,Dhaka 1350 Submitted By: NAME Exam ID SESSION Taosif Ahmed 649 2012-2013 Sadia Tabassum Tabin 683 2012-2013 Tahmina Sultana 686 2012-2013
  • 2. Page 2 I. Acknowledgement First of all we would like to express our gratitude to almighty Allah to do our industrial attachment in one of the most reputed and well-known organizations in the country. We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Prof. Dr. Mohammed Mizanur Rahman, Principal, National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER) for allowing us to undertake this work. We are deeply indebted to our supervisor Md. Shamsuddin Kayes Chowdhury & co-supervisor Md Anisur Rahman Lecturer, National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research, for their stimulating inspiration, kind guidance, valuable suggestions & guidance have made the report in a good manner. Special thanks to Honorable industrial supervisor Md. Zahid Al Hasan, AGM (Dyeing Division), AKH knitting & Dyeing Ltd. for his relentless support and guidance without which the smoothness of Internship and learning might not have been possible. We would like to special thanks to Mr. Shadhan, Asstt. Manager of knitting section for guiding us. We put our special thanks to Md. Ziaur Rahman, Sr. Manager of dyeing section, who has provide us a lot of information and his valuable knowledge & suggestions. We put our special thanks to Mr. Aminur Rahman for his guiding about Garments Division and also thanks to Mr. Khairul Islam for guiding us about IE Department.We thank to Mr. Munir Ahamed, Merchandiser, AGM for his guidance and helps. We are also thankful to other personnel of merchandising department for their helping attitude. We also thankful to Mr. A.T.M Hasanuzzaman for guiding us about Dyeing Lab. We would like to express our deep sense of gratitude and thanks to Mr. Md. Khalilur Rahman Khan, Manager of HRM department for his kind cooperation and observation, for their guidance, valuable knowledge & suggestions during our internship period. We would like to convey our best regards to all the officials and workers of the AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. We specially like to thank our parents & all of our family members for extending their helping hand at a time when we need it most. We remember all the care and love of our brothers & friends who made our every existence more meaningful and worthy. Finally we would like to put special thanks to the authority of AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. for allowing us in their organization.
  • 3. Page 3 II. Executive Summary The internationally recognized buyers are looking for those countries for producing their apparel products where different type of mills has established as a non-stop source for the global apparel market, satisfy and meet customer expectation by developing and providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of quality, price, safety & environment impact. And also, assure complete compliance with the international quality standards and also to provide the employees internationally acceptable working condition. In Bangladesh, there are different types of textile industries those are producing high-quality textile and apparel product AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. is one of them. AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. is a garments manufacturer & exporter having all state of the art facilities with annual turnover 45 million USD. They have a different type of cutting, sewing, and finishing machines supplied by mostly Japan, Taiwan, Thailand, Germany, China, Greece etc. which are very latest. It has high production rate finished garments are produced per day. The production is controlled by skill persons. Finishing is well branded. They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from the international market like UK, Belgium, Germany, Sweden .They follow all the system for their machines maintenance’s so production cannot hamper. In this report, we tried to give some information about AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. and we have observed that AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. produce high-quality garment and fulfill the special requirements of the different types of buyers according to the different internationally recommended standard method.
  • 4. Page 4 III. Table of Contents Serial Subject Page 1.0 Description of Organization 10 2.0 Man Power Management 15 2.1 Shifting System 16 2.2 Responsibilities of Officer 16 2.3 Job Description of the Officers 16 3.0 Machine Description 17 3.1.1 Circular Knitting Machine 17 3.1.2 Flat Knitting Machine 22 3.1.3 Fabric Inspection Machine 22 3.2 Batch Section Machine 23 3.3 Dyeing Section Machine 23 3.4 Finishing Section Machine 24 3.5 Lab Equipment’s 24 3.6 Printing Section Machine 26 3.7 Embroidery Section Machine 26 3.8 Sample Section Machine 26 3.9 Cutting Machine 27 3.10 Sewing Machine 27 3.11 Others Equipment’s 28 4.0 Material Management 30 4.1 Introduction 30 4.2 Types 30 4.3 Prices of Yarn 30 4.4 Sources of Yarn 31 4.5 Sources of Dyes 32 4.6 Prices of Dyes 33 4.7 Garments Division Material 34 5.0 Production Planning Sequence & Operation 35 5.1 Knitting Section 35 5.1.1 Knitting 35 5.1.2 Knitting Types 35 5.1.3 Process Flow Chart of Knitting 36 5.1.4 Organogram of Knitting Section 37 5.1.5 Layout Plan of Circular Knitting Machine Floor-1 38 5.1.6 Layout Plan of Circular Knitting Machine Floor-2 39
  • 5. Page 5 5.1.7 Layout Plan of Flat Knitting Machine 40 5.1.8 Shifting System 41 5.1.9 Responsibilities of Production Officer (Knitting) 41 5.1.10 Knitting Machine Types 41 5.1.11 Different Parts of Knitting Machine 42 5.1.12 Some Pictures of Knitting Section 49 5.1.13 Types of Knitted Fabric Produced by AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. 50 5.1.14 Different Types of Knitting Faults 50 5.1.15 Types of Knitted Stripe and Their Differences 51 5.1.16 Different Types of Knitting Faults & Remedies 52 5.1.17 GSM Control of Knitted Fabric 53 5.1.18 Different Types of Cam Arrangement 53 5.1.19 Production Parameter 56 5.1.20 Knitting Machine Production Calculation 56 5.2 Batch Section 57 5.2.1 Batching or Batch 57 5.2.2 Types of Batching 57 5.2.3 Function or Purpose of Batch Section 57 5.2.4 Proper Batching Criteria 57 5.2.5 Batch Management 57 5.3 Color Lab Section 58 5.3.1 Color Lab 58 5.3.2 Sequence of Lab Operation 58 5.3.3 Working Flow Chart of Color Lab 60 5.3.4 Lab Dyeing Procedure for Cotton 61 5.4 Physical Lab Section 62 5.4.1 Fabric Strength Test 62 5.4.2 Pilling Test 62 5.4.3 PH Test 63 5.4.4 Rubbing Test 64 5.4.5 Perspiration Test 64 5.5 Dyeing Section 65 5.5.1 Organogram of Dyeing Section 65 5.5.2 Layout Plan of Dyeing Section 66 5.5.3 Working Flow Chart for Dyeing 67 5.5.4 Picture of Dyeing Section 68 5.5.5 Cotton Dyeing Procedure 69 5.5.6 Viscose Dyeing Procedure 70 5.5.7 Polyester Dyeing Procedure 71
  • 6. Page 6 5.5.8 Dyeing Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used in Dyeing Section 73 5.5.9 Different Types of Dyeing Faults & Remedies 74 5.6 Dyeing Finishing Section 76 5.6.1 Finishing 76 5.6.2 Object of Finishing 76 5.6.3 Layout Plan of Finishing Section 76 5.6.4 Flow Chart of Finishing Section 77 5.6.5 Dyeing Finishing Machine Activities 77 5.6.6 Picture of Finishing Section 78 5.6.7 Chemical Used in Finishing Section 79 5.6.8 Heat Setting Parameter 79 5.6.9 Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Stenter Machine 79 5.6.10 Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Compactor Machine 80 5.7 Sample Section 81 5.7.1 Layout Plan of Sample Section 81 5.7.2 Organogram of Sample Section 82 5.7.3 Flow Chart of Sample Section 83 5.7.4 Types of Sample 84 5.7.5 The Details Attach to The Garments Sample 85 5.8 Pattern & Marker Section 85 5.8.1 Pattern 85 5.8.2 Pattern Making Depends On 85 5.8.3 Pattern Making by Hand (Basic T-Shirt) 86 5.8.4 Pattern Making by Lectra Modaris 87 5.8.5 Marker Making 87 5.9 Cutting Section 88 5.9.1 Layout Plan of Cutting Section 88 5.9.2 Organogram of Cutting Section 89 5.9.3 Flow Chart of Cutting Section 90 5.9.4 Lay Wise Fabric Consumption 91 5.9.5 Size Wise Cutting Quantity Calculation 92 5.9.6 Marker Attachment 93 5.9.7 Fabric Cutting 93 5.9.8 Photos of Cutting Section 95 5.10 Printing Section 96 5.10.1 Print Base on Three Types 96 5.10.2 Printing System 96 5.10.3 Types of Printing 96 5.10.4 Flow Chart of Printing 97
  • 7. Page 7 5.10.5 Common Printing Defects 98 5.10.6 Major Causes of Printing Defects 99 5.11 Embroidery Section 99 5.11.1 Different Types of Stitch Used in Embroidery Section 100 5.12 Sewing Section 100 5.12.1 Layout Plan of Sewing Floor 101 5.12.2 Organogram of Sewing Section 102 5.12.3 Flow Chart of Sewing Section 103 5.12.4 Function of Different Sewing Machine 104 5.12.5 Needle Used in Sewing Section 104 5.12.6 Sewing Thread Consumption 105 5.12.7 Different Types of Sewing Faults, Causes & Remedies 105 5.12.8 Photos of Sewing Section 109 5.13 Industrial Engineering Section 110 5.13.1 Industrial Engineering 110 5.13.2 Objectives of IE 110 5.13.3 The Activities of IE 110 5.13.4 The Techniques of IE 110 5.13.5 Calculation of SMV, Target & Efficiency 111 5.13.6 Sewing Sequence for a Basic T-Shirt 112 5.13.7 Sewing Sequence for a Ladies Vest 114 5.14 Garments Finishing Section 116 5.14.1 Flow Process of Garments Finishing 117 5.14.2 Chemical Used to Remove Spot from Garments Finishing Section 118 5.14.3 Flow Process of Garments Packing 118 5.14.4 Poly Used in Garments Packing 119 5.14.5 Carton Used for Garments Packing 119 5.14.6 Assortment System 119 5.14.7 Photos of Finishing Section 120 6.0 Quality Assurance System 121 6.1 Quality Assurance 122 6.2 Objectives of Quality Assurance 122 6.3 Quality Control 122 6.3.1 Testing 122 6.3.2 Inspection 123 6.4 Quality Standard 124 6.5 Quality Report 125 6.5.1 Quality Report on Cutting 125 6.5.2 Quality Report on Sewing 125
  • 8. Page 8 6.5.3 Quality Report on Finishing 125 6.6 Remarks 125 7.0 Maintenance 126 7.1 Maintenance of Machinery 127 7.2 Maintenance Routine 127 7.3 Organogram of Maintenance Section 128 7.4 Flow Chart of Maintenance 128 7.5 Maintenance Procedure 129 7.6 Maintenance Tools 129 8.0 Utility Services 133 8.1 Machine Description & Capacity of Utility Section 134 9.0 Store & Inventory Control 137 9.1 Inventory 138 9.2 Causes of Maintain Inventory 138 9.3 Scope of Inventory Control 138 9.4 Flow Chart of Store Department 138 9.5 Organogram of Inventory Section 139 9.6 Store Activity 139 9.7 Store Capacity 140 9.8 Remarks 140 10.0 Cost Analysis 141 10.1 Cost Analysis 142 10.2 Price of The Product 142 10.3 Cost of The Product 142 10.4 Knitting Cost of Different Fabric 143 10.5 Accessories/Trimmings Cost 144 10.6 Remarks 144 11.0 Marketing Activities 145 11.1 Marketing Information 146 11.2 Merchandising 146 11.4 Sequence of Merchandising Procedure 147 11.5 Consumption 148 11.6 Costing 149 11.7 Cost of Making Calculation 150 11.8 Swatch Card 151 11.9 Major Buyers 152 12.0 Others 153 12.1 Compliance 154 12.2 List of Compliance Issues 154
  • 9. Page 9 12.3 Photos of Compliance Section 157 12.4 Water Treatment Plant 159 12.5 Methods of Water Softening 159 12.6 Sequence of Water Treatment Plant is Given Below 160 12.7 Effluent Treatment Plant 161 12.8 Flow Diagram of ETP 162 12.9 Different Things Checked in ETP 164 Impact of Internship 165 Conclusion 166
  • 10. Page 10 CHAPTER ONE DESCRIPTION OF ORGANIZATION AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd.
  • 11. Page 11 Factory Name : AKH KNITTING & DYEING LTD. (A 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Factory) Estimated Project Value 9.0 Million US $ Factory Location 92, Phulbaria, Tetuljhora, Savar, Dhaka‐1347, Bangladesh Phone:+88 02 7741727‐8 Fax : +88 02 7710788 Head Office Address 133‐134, Hamayetpur, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Phone: 880‐2‐7744001‐8; 880‐2‐7741830‐31. Fax: (880‐2) 8155640 –41. Contact E‐mail ID alam@akhknit.com kashem@akhfashions.com hossain@akhfashions.com ranju@akhknit.com Management Md. Delwar Hossain(Chairman) Md. Shamsul Alam (Managing Director) Md. Abul Kashem (Deputy Managing Director) Md. Shamim Haque(Director) Legal Status Private Limited Company Bonded Warehouse No. 106/CUS‐SBW/2001 E.R.C No. RA 53894 BGMEA Reg. No. 3890 (AKDL) Bank Export Import Bank of Bangladesh Gulshan Branch, 75, Gulahsn Avenue, Dhaka 1212, Bangladesh. Phone: 9886296, 9862262, 8819711. Telex: 632125 EXN GL BJ. Fax: 880‐2‐8818703. E‐mail: eximgul@bttb.net.bd Swift # EXBKBDDH 007 Company Established In 2004 Annual Turnover 75Million US $ (2016) Factory Type 100% Export Oriented ™ Knitting Fabric ™ Dyeing & Finishing ™ Cutting
  • 12. Page 12 ™ Printing & Embroidery ™ Sewing & Readymade Garments Total Land Area Around –3.72 Acre. Factory Size 3, 48,454.47Sft (32384.44Sqm.) Manufacturing Area 2,05,000 Sft. Office Area 6,000 Sft. Canteen & Dining 7,000 Sft. Total Nos. of workers 4949Persons (Incl. Knitting & Dyeing) No. of male workers 3000 Persons No. female workers 1949 Persons Lead time 60‐90 days Main Product Tee shirt; polo shirt; sweat shirt; tank top; dresses; jog pant; hoody; jackets; fleeces; pajama sets etc. Production Capacity 2.9million Pieces per month. Fabric Capacity (for circ ular knitting) 480‐500 ton per months. Major Customers 1. T‐Chibo (Germany); 2. H&M (Sweden); 3. Sainsbury’s (UK); 4. ALDI (Germany); 5. M & Co (UK); 6.Others :‐ {Gustav Daiber (Germany); Ernsting’s Family G mbH (Germany); B&C (Belgium), Bonmarch (UK); MS Mode ( NL); Prenatal (FR)} Major Certificates Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS); Organic Content Standard (OCS); Flo‐Cert (Fair‐Trade) ; Oeko‐Tex (Cotton Fabric); Oeko‐Tex (Blended Fabric); Oeko‐Tex (Garments) ; ISO 9001:2008 (QMS) etc. ACCORD Inspection ACCORD on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh Category : Green Factory Compliance Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI)(SEDEX) Working Shift Garments + Embroidery –1(One), (8.00 am‐5.00 pm) Print – 2 (Two) (8.00 am‐5.00 pm/ 8.00 pm‐
  • 13. Page 13 5.00 am) Dyeing+Knitt.‐ 3 (Three) (6.00 am‐2.00 pm, 2.00 pm‐ 10.00pm, 10.00 pm6.00 am.) Total Warehouse area 60,000 sft. Knitting Capacity 50 Tons per day (European machines like Mayers, Vignony, Ori io etc.). Dyeing Capacity 17 Tons per day (High temperature European machines like Sclav os, Scholl etc.). Garments Line 32 lines Garments Production 2.9 million Pieces per month. Product mix 100% cotton. CVC (Chief value of cotton). PC/TC (The more % of polyester). Mélange : Grey mélange: 10% viscose + 90% cotton. 15% viscose + 85% cotton. Mission: AKH is committed to venture out into the changing and challenging global market as a leading enterprise in the world apparel industry by satisfying its valued customers. Vision:  To operate as one of the best sources of apparel in the global market.  To meet compliance standards to assure an ideal work environment and obtain the optimum level of productivity.  To maintain the technology-led command in the industry.  To promote development ensuring unprejudiced and equal opportunities for all.  To continue growing nurturing competence in professionalism seeking win-win terms.
  • 14. Page 14 Factory Location: Factory Location in Google Map
  • 16. Page 16 2.1 Shifting System: Shift Name Time A 7.00 am - 2.00 pm B 2.00 pm -10.00 pm C 10.00 pm -7.00 am General Shift 8.00 am - 6.00 pm 2.2 Responsibilities of officer:  To give factory program slip.  To match production sample with target product.  To collect production sample for sample matching nest production.  To observed production during finishing running & also after finishing.  To identify disputed fabrics & report to production manager for necessary action.  To discuss with production manager about overall production if necessary.  To sign the store requisition.  Also to execute overall floor works. 2.3 Job description of the officers:  Report to : Assistant Production Manager  Job Summary: To plan, execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality.
  • 17. Page 17 CHAPTER THREE Machine Description 3.1 KNITTING SECTION 3.1.1 CIRCULAR KNITING MACHINE: Sl. No. Description Brand Origin GG DIA No. of Needle Remarks 01. S/J SANTONI China 28 30 2639 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 02. S/J SANTONI China 28 34 2990 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 03. S/J SANTONI China 28 34 2990 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 04. S/J SANTONI China 28 34 2990 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 05. S/J SANTONI China 28 32 2815 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 06. S/J SANTONI China 28 30 2639 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 07. S/J SANTONI China 28 32 2815 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 08. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 32 2413 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 09. S/J SANTONI China 28 30 2639 Full Feeder Lycra attachment
  • 18. Page 18 10. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 26 26 2124 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 11. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 12. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 13. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 14. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 28 34 3343 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 15. S/J Zentex Singapore 24 24 1810 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 16. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 28 34 3343 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 17. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 18. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 28 34 3343 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 19. Interlock Mayer & Cie Germany 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 20. Interlock Mayer & Cie Germany 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 21. Rib ORIZIO Italy 18 30 1697 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 22. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 23. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 32 2413 Full Feeder Lycra attachment
  • 19. Page 19 24. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 28 34 3343 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 25. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 34 2564 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 26. S/J Mayer & Cie Germany 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 27. S/J Tayu China 20 34 2137 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 28. S/J Tayu China 24 34 2564 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 29. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 30. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 31. S/J Tayu China 24 44 3318 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 32. S/J Tayu China 20 44 2765 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 33. Rib Tayu China 18 38 2149 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 34. Rib Tayu China 18 44 2488 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 35. Rib Tayu China 18 42 2375 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 36. Rib Tayu China 18 42 2375 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 37. S/J Zentex Singapore 28 36 3166 Full Feeder Lycra attachment
  • 20. Page 20 38. S/J Zentex Singapore 28 36 3166 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 39. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2261 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 40. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2261 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 41. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 36 2035 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 42. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 36 2035 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 43. S/J Tayu China 16 44 2212 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 44. S/J Tayu China 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 45. S/J Tayu China 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 46. Rib Tayu China 18 40 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 47. Rib Tayu China 18 40 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 48. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 49. Rib Tayu China 18 42 2376 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 50. Rib Tayu China 18 42 2376 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 51. Rib Tayu China 18 44 2488 Full Feeder Lycra attachment
  • 21. Page 21 52. Rib Tayu China 18 44 2488 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 53. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 54. Auto Stripe/Engineering Stripe Mayer & Cie Germany 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 55. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 56. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 57. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 58. S/J Tayu China 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 59. S/J Tayu China 24 34 2563 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 60. S/J Tayu China 24 34 2563 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 61. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 62. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 40 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 63. S/J Zentex Singapore 24 36 2715 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 64. Rib SANTONI Italy 18 34 1922 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 65. S/J Zentex Singapore 28 30 2638 Full Feeder Lycra attachment
  • 22. Page 22 66. S/J ORIZIO Italy 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 67. Rib ORIZIO Italy 18 34 1922 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 68. Rib ORIZIO Italy 18 34 1922 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 69. S/J ORIZIO Italy 20 30 1884 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 70. S/J Zentex Singapore 24 30 2262 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 71. S/J Zentex Singapore 28 36 3166 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 72. S/J Zentex Singapore 24 26 1960 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 73. Rib SANTONI China 18 38 2148 Full Feeder Lycra attachment 3.1.2 FLAT KNITTING MACHINES: Sl. No. Description Model Brand Qty. Remark 01. Flat Knitting Machine Model M 100 Matsuya (Japan) 10 02. Flat Knitting Machine Model JL-203 JY-LEH (Taiwan) 12 3.1.3 FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE: Sl. No. Description Model Brand Qty. Remark 01. Cloth Inspection Machine Model – UZ- 90031 Thailand 6
  • 23. Page 23 3.2 BATCH SECTION: Sl. No. Description Model Origin Rated Power ( KW) Qty. Remark 01. Back Sewing 00230F0 Italy 3 kw 1 02. Back Sewing CCSAP004 8B0121 Italy 3 kw 1 03. Air Tuning DNAT‐400 Korea 11 kw 1 04. Air Tuning Bangladesh 22 kw 1 05. Blower motor Bangladesh 7.5 kw 1 06. Air Tuning DNAT‐400 Korea 11 kw 1 07. Heat Setting DWH1400 Korea 7.5 kw 1 3.3 DYEING SECTION: Sl. No. Description Brand Model Origin Capacity Quantity Remark 1 Dyeing M/C Sclavos Athena‐2 Greece 1000 Kg 1 2 Dyeing M/C Sclavos At‐750 H Greece 750 Kg 1 3 Dyeing M/C Sclavos At‐750 H Greece 750 Kg 1 4 Dyeing M/C Sclavos At‐150 H Greece 150 Kg 1 5 Dyeing M/C Fongs ECO-6-3T China 750 Kg 1 6 Dyeing M/C Fongs ECO‐6‐1T China 250 kg 1 7 Dyeing M/C Fongs Allfit‐30 China 30 kg 1 8 Dyeing M/C Fongs Allfit‐10 China 10 kg 1 9 Dyeing M/C Scholl Rc1420406 Switzerland 1140 kg 1 10 Dyeing M/C Scholl Rc1420406 Switzerland 760 kg 1 11 Dyeing M/C Scholl Rc1410206 Switzerland 380 kg 1 12 Dyeing M/C Scholl 10106 Switzerland 55 kg 1 13 Dyeing M/C Scholl 10106 Switzerland 20 kg 1 14 Dyeing M/C Labpro 212013 Switzerland 630 Kg 1 15 Dyeing M/C Labpro 212014 Switzerland 30 kg 1
  • 24. Page 24 3.4 FINISHING SECTION: Sl. No. Description Brand Model Origin Capacity Qty. Remark 1 Open Bianco TGLFPO0 046 BO120 Italy 10 ton 1 2 Open Lafer 10KS0277 Italy 10 ton 1 3 Csmevo111 h 2200 HAS 3 CS MO Turkey 3 ton 1 4 Rcmevo 111H2400 HAS 2287‐T Turkey 4 ton 1 5 TMBI125 HAS 4179‐T Turkey 30 kg 1 6 TMBI125 HAS 4178‐T Turkey 30 kg 1 7 S2600G8 TTM MRM‐131 Turkey 10 ton 1 8 Dryer Prato BRIO Italy 1 9 Open Bianco Teltpo,023 0 F0520 Turkey 10 ton 1 10 Open Lafer 10 kso,358 Turkey 10 ton 1 11 Power‐pad Brukner Germany 12 ton 1 12 Open Entema Turkey 6 ton 1 13 Santashr tnk 2 k/ 240 gf, ir gas Santex CH‐9555 Tobel Switzerlan d 6 ton 1 14 Tube Tubetex BM‐9875 U.S.A 10 ton 1 15 Santast retch plus Santex CH‐9555 Tobel Switzerlan d 10 ton 1 16 Light Box Frog, Is land CAC‐60 England 1 17 Sewding Lafer Italy 1 3.5 LAB EQUIPMENTS: Name of Machine Description Brand Model Origin Qty. Remark Quick wash plus Shrinkage Test SDLATLAS M22QW Sweden 1 Electrolux washcator Washing m/c SDLATLAS W 365 Sweden 1 Electrolux washcator Washing m/c Roaches H210052 0 U.K 1
  • 25. Page 25 ELECTRO Lux Washing m/c Roaches 60055 Thailand 1 Verivide Pilling Roaches Pav England 1 Light box Verivide CAC60 1 Q‐SUN Q‐LAB Q‐SUN‐ B‐02 U.S.A 1 Infra‐ Red pyrotec2000 Sample Dyeing Roaches 420306 England 1 ECO‐ Ahiba Nuancc Dyeing DATACOL OR 3207 U.S.A 1 Laboratory squeezer Squzzing Rapid PA 1 China 1 Laboratory Dyeing oven Sample Dryer Rapid PA 1 China 1 Ahiba IR Sample dyeing DATACOL OR 12 A 021 U.S.A 1 Incubator Oven Roaches 20301480 England 1 Electrolux Dryer Roaches 5300 Sweden 1 ICI Piling Tester Piling managem ent Roaches 376803 England 1 Wastec‐p Fastness to wash ing Test Roaches 3790-03 England 1 Wrap Reel Yarn count Tester Fangyuan Yg 086e China 1 Crock Meter Dry & wet Test Roaches 3137‐03 1 Opti‐Dry Dryer Roaches 5183‐11 England 1 Electrolux Dryer Roaches N‐ 1130 E‐ 17 Thailand 1 Ph Meter Ph‐check LABTECH LMS‐ 1003 Korea 1 Electronic Balance Weighting Roaches AR‐2130 U.S.A 1 Electronic Digital Pipette Pipetting Dyes Rainin A 100001 3 U.S.A 1 Spectro Photometer SAV 8540 U.S.A 1 Circular Cutter INC Board INC Board GSM Cutter Roaches U.K 4
  • 26. Page 26 3.6 PRINTING SECTION MACHINE: Name of Machine Description Brand Model Origin Quantity Remark Auto Printing AS K M/C FI‐0I‐I Taiwan 1 Belt Curing T‐2000 Fineart T‐2000 Taiwan 1 Belt Curing AS K M/C 3 C318 Taiwan 1 Belt Curing AS K M/C Tird‐3c318 Taiwan 1 Table D/yer Octading China 5 Table D/yer Octading China 1 Table D/yer Spark Tex China 2 Heat Press Dryer Enterprize Bangladesh 18 Auto Camera Victory River China 1 Dryer Dryer Victory River China 1 Hand Dryer Dryer GHG 500‐2 Romania 20 Exhaust Fan 16 Ever Bright Screen Print 130F5 China 1 Ink‐cups Auto B‐100 U.S.A 1 3.7 EMBROIDARY SECTION MACHINE: Name of Machine Origin Model Quantity Remark Tajima Japan TFGN (Sequin‐20 Head) 1 Tajima Japan TFKN(Cording & Boring‐ 12 Head) 1 3.8 SAMPLE SECTION MACHINE: Name of Machine Description Brand Quantity Remark Auto pattern cutting machine Winda 1 Auto CAD Lecta ALYS‐30‐L 3
  • 27. Page 27 3.9 CUTTING MACHINE: Sl. No. Name of Machine Quantity Remarks 1 Straight Knife Cutting M/C 37 2 Label Cutting M/C 8 3 Band Knife M/C 3 4 Auto Pattern Cutting M/C 1 5 Laser Cutting M/C 1 3.10 SEWING MACHINE: Sl. No. Name of Machine UNIT‐ 1,2,4 UNIT‐3 Quantity Remark 1 PLAIN 473 124 597 2 OVER LOCK 369 116 485 3 FLAT LOCK 239 76 315 4 BUTTON HOLE 22 6 28 5 BUTTON STITCH 20 5 25 6 BAR TACK 4 2 6 7 ZIGZAG LOCK STITCH 6 0 6 8 FEET OF THE ARM 3 0 3 9 FLAT SEAMING 23 0 23 10 KANSAI PMD 9 0 9 11 KANSAI SMOKING 2 0 2 12 KANSAI PIN TACK 3 0 3 13 PEQUDING 6 0 6 14 RIB CUTTING 21 2 23 15 TWO NEEDLE 5 0 5 16 BACK TAPE 4 5 9 17 SNAP BUTTON 40 0 40 18 VELCO ATCHING 5 0 5 20 POCKET WEILTING MACSINE 5 0 5 21 GATHERING STITCH M/C 2 0 2 22 THREAD WINDDING 2 1 3 23 STAPING 2 0 2 25 FABRIC INSPECTION 2 0 2 26 THREAD SHAKING 5 0 5
  • 28. Page 28 27 LABEL FOULDING 1 0 1 29 SPOT CLEANER 1 0 1 30 NEEDLE CHECK 1 2 3 31 HEAT TRANSFER 27 0 27 32 COMPREASER 1 0 1 33 LAMENITING M/C 1 0 1 34 MINI FUSING 1 1 2 35 PULL TAST M/C 1 1 2 37 HAND HOLD NEEDLE DETECTOR 1 1 2 38 BUTTON COUND M/C 1 0 1 39 AUTO LAY TABLE 4 2 6 40 IRON TABLE 98 94 132 41 PLOTTER:ALYS 30L+ 2 1 3 42 FABRICS INSPECTION MACHINE 1 0 1 3.11 OTHERS EQUIPMENTS: Description Type of M/C Brand Model Capacity Qty Remarks Air Condition (AC) SPLIT GENERAL 117.75 Tons 53 CASSETTE 36 Tons 15 WINDOW 58.5 Tons 31 PANEL AC 14 Tons 24 Lift Passenger Sigma 1350kg 1 Passenger Sigma Di1‐SA24 1600kg 1 Passenger Hunyadi 1600kg 1 Passenger Hyundai 2000kg 1 Cargo Lift Modern Sl:70432348 1500kg 2 SP 202 200gm 12Pcs
  • 29. Page 29 Electrical Balance Balance DF 1500 R 500kg 3Pcs CD 11 300kg 3Pcs D 51 P 300kg 2Pcs CH 150 R11 150kg 3Pcs AR 2130 210gm 1Pes CQ 250 X L 11 300kg 2Pcs ARB 120 2100gm 1Pes CH 30 R 11 300kg 1Pes T 51 P 300kg 1Pes PA 213 210gm 1Pes PA‐153 150gm 1Pes CH 15 R 11 15kg 2Pcs
  • 30. Page 30 CHAPTER FOUR Material Management 4.1 Introduction: AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. takes yarn as its raw materials for its initial production of knitted fabric to make garments. It has no spinning section of its own. So, it depends on different of spinning mills of home and abroad to collect yarn as it requires. Here are the details. 4.2 Types: Natural and synthetic, Cellulose and non-cellulose all kinds of yarn are used as raw materials in this organization. Generally cotton, polyester, viscose, modal and spandex are mostly used in knitting departments. Material Composition Count Cotton 100% combed 34s Cotton 100% combed 28s Cotton 100% carded 28s Cotton 100% carded 30s Cotton 100% combed 30s CVC Cotton 60% - Viscose 40% 34s Spandex 100% Elastane 20D Spandex 100% Elastane 40D PC Poly 65% - Cotton 35% 26s, 28s Cotton – Modal Cotton 50% - Modal 50% 30s, 34s Viscose 100% 36s Grey mélange Cotton 90% - Viscose 10% 28s Spandex 100% Elastane 70D 4.3 Prices of Yarn: Price of yarn varies mill to mill and as different count. Here, we collect a price sheet of overall price for all the spinning mills of home and abroad of different count from merchandising section:
  • 31. Page 31 Sl. No. Yarn Type Yarn count U.S Dollar per kg. 01. Combed 30 3.20 02. Carded 30 2.90 03. Combed 28 3.15 04. Carded 28 2.85 05. Combed 26 3.10 06. Carded 26 2.80 07. Combed 24 3.05 08. Carded 24 2.75 09. Combed 20 3.00 10. Carded 20 2.70 4.4 Sources of Yarn: The main source of yarn for this mill is the country and neighboring country, India. Here is the list of its source spinning mills: Sl. No. Name of Spinning Mill 01. ARIF Spinning Mill Ltd. 02. SAGAR Spinning Mill Ltd. 03. PT-PRIMAYUDHA Spinning Mill Ltd. 04. PRECOT Spinning Mill Ltd. 05. MARAL Spinning Mill Ltd. 06. MSA Spinning Mill Ltd. 07. AA COARSE Spinning Mill Ltd. 08. SQUARE Spinning Mill Ltd. 09. V.MAN Spinning Mill Ltd. 10. ETAFIL Spinning Mill Ltd. 11. PRIME Spinning Mill Ltd. 12. KAMAL Spinning Mill Ltd. 13. OUTPACE Spinning Mill Ltd. 14. BADSHA Spinning Mill Ltd. 15. INVISTA 16. CREORA
  • 32. Page 32 4.5 Sources of Dyes: Sl. No. Name of Items Supplier’s Name 01. Remazol Blue RR Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 02. Remazol Bril. Blue RSPL Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 03. Remazol Red RR Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 04. Remazol Yellow RR Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 05. Remazol Bril. Yellow-3GL Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 06. Remazol Green 6BT Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 07. Remazol Orange SAM Tex Solution (Dystar) 08. Remazol Navy RGB Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 09. Remazol Ultra Red RGB Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 10. Remazol Navy Blue GG Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 11. Dyanix Br. Violet-R Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 12. Dyanix Cyanine-B Dystar Singapore Pte Ltd 13. Polafix Navy Blue-BS Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd 14. Polafix Red-3BS 150% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd 15. Polafix Yellow-3RS 150% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd 16. Polazol Black-B 150% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd 17. Polazol Black-GR 110% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd 18. Polazol Black-GRN 200% Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd 19. Polazol Super Black-G Jin Won Trading Co. Ltd 20. Reactive-Red 3BSN -150% Aim Tech 21. Reactive-yellow 3RS-150% Aim Tech 22. Reactive Black –GR-150% Aim Tech 23. Reactive-Deep Red SB Aim Tech 24. Reactive Black –B-150% Aim Tech 25. ReactiveBlack-WNN Aim Tech 26. Rifalon Black-HWR Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 27. Rifalon Yellow Brown HW Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 28. Rifalon Rubine HW Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 29. Rifalon Yellow Brown S2RL 150 Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 30. Rifalon Blue EFBL Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 31. Rifalon Red EFBL Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 32. Rifalon Blue ACE Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 33. Rifalon Blue-HW Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 34. Rifalon Bluw-HW Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 35. Rifazol Blue EDRS Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 36. Rifazol Blue RDN Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 37. Rifazol Yellow RDN Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 38. Rifacoin Red HE-7B Rifa Ind. Co. LTD.
  • 33. Page 33 39. Rifacoin Yellow HE4G Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 40. Rifalon Navy Blue-HER Rifa Ind. Co. LTD. 41. Elbezol Black –B-150% Elbe International Co. Ltd. 42. Elbezol Super Black –LCG Elbe International Co. Ltd. 43. Elbezol Super Black –HG Elbe International Co. Ltd. 44. Elbezol Red-3BSN-150% Elbe International Co. Ltd. 45. Elbezol Yellow 3RS-150% Elbe International Co. Ltd. 46. Imcozin Blue ENR-A Impocolor Dyes & Chemicals 47. Imcozin Red E-3BF Impocolor Dyes & Chemicals 48. Imcozin N/Blue E-2G Impocolor Dyes & Chemicals 49. Novacron Blue Ts 3G Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 50. Novacron Navy H2G Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 51. Novacron Navy WB Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 52. Novacron Navy FN BN Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 53. Avitera Yellow SE Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 54. Terasil Black BFE Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 55. Terasil Blue BGE 01 Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 56. Terasil Blue WBL-S Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 57. Terasil Blue WW-2GS Huntsman (Swiss Colour) 58. Bemacron Blue SBB CHT ( R.H Corporation ) 59. Bemacron Black STL CHT ( R.H Corporation ) 60. Bemacron Blue SBGL CHT ( R.H Corporation ) 61. Solacion Crimcion –HEXL Chemitech Services 62. Solacion Blue – HEGN Chemitech Services 63. Jakazol Yellow LD Specialty Dyes & Chemical 64. Procion RED VEL Scarlet Service 65. Tanazym CS Tanatex Chemicals (India) 4.6 Prices of Dyes: The prices of the dyes is very confidential matter of the industry. They are not interested to flash the data. So we could not collect the prices of dyes.
  • 34. Page 34 4.7 Garments Division Material: Necessary Trims & Accessories in Sewing Section:  Sewing Thread  Lace  Elastic  Movilon Tape  Back Tape  Balvet Tape  Twill Tape  Goas Gant Tape  Shading Tape  Cotton Shoulder Tape  Oven Tape  Care Label  Size Label  Interlining  Button Necessary Finishing Accessories:  Hang tag  Price tag  Tissue paper  Poly bag  Carton  Hanger  Gum tape  Barcode sticker  Tack pin  Lock pin  Power sticker  Yes sticker
  • 35. Page 35 CHAPTER FIVE Production planning sequence & operation 5.1 KNITTING SECTION: 5.1.1 Knitting: Knitting is the interloping of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The length wise columns of stitches are called wales; the cross wise rows of stitches are called courses. Weft knits are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarn, while warp knits are those in which the wales are composed of single strand of yarn. Gauge is defined as the number of needles in one inch of cloth. The higher the gauge, the more compact and finer is the cloth. 5.1.2 Knitting Types: There are two types-  Weft knitting: In weft knitted structure, a horizontal raw of loops can be made by using one thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction.  Warp knitting: In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the no. of thread used to product such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in horizontal raw. The thread runs thoroughly in a vertical direction. Weft knit Warp knit
  • 36. Page 36 5.1.3 Process Flow Chart of Knitting: SAMPLE FABRIC DESIGN & YARN ANALYSIS MACHINE SELECTION PREPARATING M/C FOR SPECIFIC DESIGN SMAPLE FABRIC PRODUCTION SAMPLE APPROVAL BULK ORDER SHEET RECIEVED FROM MERCHANDISER YARN QUALITY CHECK MAKING KNITTING PROGRAM ACCORDING TO ORDER SHEET PLACE THE YARN IN CREEL MACHINE SETTING AS PER DESIGN & GSM FABRIC PRODUCTION FABRIC INSPECTION GREY FABRIC DELIVERY TO STORE
  • 37. Page 37 5.1.4 Organogram of Knitting Section: DGM AGM Manager Deputy Manager Asst. Manager Sen. Production Officer Production Officer Incharge Supervisor Sen. Operator Operator Asst. Operator Helper
  • 38. Page 38 5.1.5 Layout Plan of Circular Knitting Machine Floor-1:
  • 39. Page 39 5.1.6 Layout Plan of Circular Knitting Machine Floor-2:
  • 40. Page 40 5.1.7 Layout Plan of Flat Knitting Machine:
  • 41. Page 41 5.1.8 Shifting System:  AGM, Manager, Production officer, Supervisors: 09.00 am to 07.00 pm  Operators, Helpers, Fitter men and others workers: Shift Name Time A 7.00 am - 2.00 pm B 2.00 pm – 10.00 pm C 10.00 pm – 7.00 am 5.1.9 Responsibilities of Production Officer (Knitting): He works with a troop of operators, helpers, and fitter men etc. to finish the target production  Directly related with production, manpower  Follow up knitting production  Decide every machine utilization during production  Regular observation of the knitting floor  Follow up the program schedule  Control the in charge, supervisors, operators and helper of knitting section  Explain to the Sr. PO for any type of production hamper 5.1.10 Knitting Machine Types:  Circular knitting machine ( single jersey )  Single Jersey  Engineering Stripe/ Auto Stripe Single Jersey  Circular knitting machine ( double jersey )  Double Jersey  Engineering Stripe rib/ Interlock  Flat knitting machine  Computerized flat knitting  Computerized semi-jacquard
  • 42. Page 42 5.1.11 Different parts of knitting machine: Creel: Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Yarn package are stored and ready to feed in the machine. Figure: Creel VDQ Pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of the product. Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase. Figure: VDQ Pulley Pulley Belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel. Figure: Pulley Belt
  • 43. Page 43 Brush: Its clean the pulley belt Figure: Brush Tension Disk: It confronts the tension of the supply yarn. Figure: Tension Disk Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion: It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine instantly when a yarn is broken Figure: Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion Yarn Guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the needle. Figure: Yarn Guide
  • 44. Page 44 MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel. Figure: MPF Wheel MPF: It is manager positive feed. It is also an important part of the machine. It’s give positive feed to the machine. Figure: MPF Feeder Ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together. Figure: Feeder Ring Feeder: Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine. Figure: Feeder
  • 45. Page 45 Needle Track: Where all Needles is placed together in a decent design. Figure: Needle Track Needle: It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help the yarn to create a loop. And by this way fabric are produce. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook, and received the new loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then enclosed in the needle hook as the needle starts to descend. Figure: Needle Sinker: It is most important element of the machine. Its help to loop forming, knocking over and holding down the loop. Figure: Sinker Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together. Figure: Sinker Ring
  • 46. Page 46 Cam Box: Where the cam are set horizontally. Figure: Cam Box Cam: Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements. Figure: Cam Lycra Attachment Device: Lycra is placed here. And feeding to the machine. Figure: Lycra Attachment Device Lycra Stop Motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is break. Figure: Lycra Stop Motion
  • 47. Page 47 Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear. Figure: Cylinder Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment. Figure: Cylinder Balancer Uniwave Lubrication: The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles, cam tracks, lifters and other knitting machine components. Figure: Uniwave Lubrication Adjustable Fan: This part removes lint, hairy fibre from yarn and others. To clean the dust by air flow. Figure: Adjustable Fan
  • 48. Page 48 Expander: To control the width of the knitted fabric. No distortion of the knitting courses. Figure: Expander Needle Detector: This part detect the any type of faults of needles. Figure: Needle Detector Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose. Figure: Air Gun Nozzle Tension Meter: Which is used to measure the tension of yarn and spandex. Figure: Tension Meter
  • 49. Page 49 5.1.12 Some Pictures of knitting section: Figure: Double Jersey Circular Knitting M/C Figure: Single Jersey Circular Knitting M/C Figure: Balance Figure: Matsuya Flat Knitting Machine Figure: Fabric Inspection M/C
  • 50. Page 50 5.1.13 Types of Knitted Fabric Produced By “AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd”:  Plain Single Jersey  1*1 Rib  2*2 Rib  Interlock  Pique  Fleece  French Terry  Single Lacoste  Double Lacoste  Waffle  Mesh  Lycra Single Jersey  Lycra Rib  Feeder Stripe  Engineering Stripe 5.1.14 Different Types of Knitting Faults: Defect Image Holes Barrie Broken Needle Dropped Stitch Fly Yarn
  • 51. Page 51 Oily Spot Knots Thin Yarn Thick Yarn 5.1.15 Types of Knitted Stripe and Their Differences: There are two types of knitted stripes  Feeder Stripe  Engineering Stripe Feeder Stripe Engineering Stripe Knitted on general circular knitting machine Knitted on auto/ engineering stripe machine We can use a limited stripe or courses Maximum 5 cm repeat length Bigger than 5 cm Theoretically: 16000 colored stripes Practically: 500 colored stripes The price is comparatively lower The price is substantially higher
  • 52. Page 52 5.1.16 Different Types of Knitting Faults & Remedies: Name of faults Cause of faults Remedies Hole mark 1. Due to yarn crack or breakage 2. Driving loop formation yarn break in the region of needle hook 3. Due to incompact count of yarn or regarding structure, gauge, course & density 4. Badly knit & badly feeder setting 1. Yarn should be uniform and strong 2. Proper count should be use 3. Correctly set of yarn feed 4. Knot should be guide properly Needle mark 1. Breakage of needle 2. Bending of needle hook 1. Needle should be straight 2. Broken latch needle should be avoided Sinker marks 1. Corrode sinker cannot hold new loop, as a result sinker mark comes 2. If sinker head bend then sinker mark come 1. Sinker should be changed 2. Eliminate band sinker Drop stitch 1. Defective needle 2. Improper yarn feeding 3. Take down mechanism too loose 4. Insufficient yarn tension 1. Needle should be straight & well 2. Proper feeding assurance 3. Compact take up & fabric tension Oil stain 1. When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on to the fabric 1. Ensure that oil should not pass on the fabric Yarn contamination 1. If yarn contain foreign yarn, it remains even after finishing 2. Due to count minimizing 1. Avoid count mixing 2. Faultless spinning Pin hole 1. Due to latch distortion pin hole comes 1. Change the needle Cloth fault out 1. Cloth fault –out occur after drop stitch due to closed latch. Where remove the yarn out of the hook 1. Latch should be active
  • 53. Page 53 Grease stain 1. Improper greasing 2. Excess greasing 1. Proper greasing Yarn tension 1. Un-uniform yarn tension produce faulty fabrics 1. Maintain same yarn tension Fly yarn 1. Too much fly adhere to the fabric which causes faults 1. Blowing should clean the yarn. 5.1.17 GSM Control of Knitted Fabric:  When the diameter of VDQ (Variable Diameter for Quality) pulley increases then the GSM of fabric reduce due to more loop length.  When the diameter of VDQ (Variable Diameter for Quality) pulley reduce then the GSM of fabric increases due to small loop length. 5.1.18 Different Type of Cam Arrangement: Single Jersey (plain): Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c Needle Type: latch needle Cam Used: Knit cam K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K (For 4 butt needle) Single Lacoste: Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c Needle Type: latch needle Cam Used: Knit & tuck cam Repeat: 4 course
  • 54. Page 54 K T K K K K K T K T K K K K K T (For 4 butt needle) Double Lacoste: Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c Needle Type: latch needle Cam Used: Knit & tuck cam Repeat: 6 course K K K K T T K T T K K K K K K K T T K T T K K K (For 4 butt needle) Polo Pique: Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c Needle Type: latch needle Cam Used: Knit & tuck cam Repeat: 4 course K K T T T T K K K K T T T T K K (For 4 butt needle)
  • 55. Page 55 3-Thread Fleece: Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c Needle Type: latch needle Cam Used: Knit, miss & tuck cam Repeat: 6 course K k T K K M K K M K K M K K M K K T K K M K K M (For 4 butt needle) Here, k cam is used for binding purpose French Terry: Req. m/c: single jersey circular Knitting m/c Needle Type: latch needle Cam Used: Knit, miss & tuck cam Repeat: 4 course K T K M K M K M K M K T K T K M (For 4 butt needle)
  • 56. Page 56 5.1.19Production parameter:  Machine Diameter  Machine rpm (revolution per minute)  No. of feeds or feeders in use  Machine Gauge  Count of yarn  Required time (M/C running time)  Machine running efficiency 5.1.20 Knitting Machine Production Calculation: Production/shift = Number of feeder x RPM x 3.14 x Diameter x Gauge x Stitch length(mm)x 60 x 8 x Efficiency(%) 10 x 2.54 x Count x 840 x 36 x 2.204 Efficiency Calculation: Efficiency = Actual production Calculated production x 100% Example: Calculated production/shift = 96 x 22 x 3.14 x 30 x 20 x 2.75 x 60 x 8 10 x 2.54 x 34 x 840 x 36 x 2.204 x 100% =91 kg/shift Actual production =76 kg/shift Machine efficiency = Actual production Calculated production x 100% = 76 91 x 100% =84%
  • 57. Page 57 5.2 BATCHING OR BATCH SECTION: 5.2.1 Batching or Batch: “A group of units of products of the same type, structure, color and finish, class and composition, manufactured under essentially the same conditions and essentially at the same time, and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing.” 5.2.2 Types of Batching: 1. Solid batch 2. Assort batch 5.2.3 Function or Purpose of Batch Section: 1. To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. 2 .Turn the grey fabric if require. 3. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria – o Order sheet (Received from buyer) o Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) o MACHINE capacity o MACHINE available o Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) o Emergency 4. To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. 5. To keep records for every previous dyeing. 5.2.4 Proper batching criteria: - To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing Machine. - To minimize the washing time or preparation time & Machine stoppage time. - To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. - To use a particular Machine for dyeing same shade. 5.2.5 Batch management Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Sometime planning is adjusted according to Machine condition or emergency.
  • 58. Page 58 5.3 COLOR LAB SECTION: 5.3.1 Color Lab: Color is the pre stage of dyeing procedure. In color lab recipe is prepared for specific fabric to achieve desired shade or color according to the buyer. 5.3.2 Sequence of Lab Operation: A number of operations are done in lab section. These are- Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the technician decision. 1. Swatch receives: Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab section through the merchandiser. Swatch receives (physical std. Or reflectance value) Fabrics & dyes selection Recipe prediction Sampling & pipetting Dyeing Dispatch
  • 59. Page 59 2. Fabric & dye selection: According to the buyer swatch , the type of fabric is selected & the dye selection depends on the following factor: a. The dye stuff contains “Metamerism” or not. b. The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color. c. Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produce particular color. d. The cost of dye stuff. 3. Recipe prediction: Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or Spectrophotometer. a. By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer. b. Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found with the best suitable recipe comes first & then others. b. If the recipe shows “Metamerism” then changes the selected dye. 4. Sampling & pipetting: According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes & chemicals are weighted & stock solutions are made. Then pipe ting is done according to the recipe. Stock solutions are made according to the recipe%. 5. Dyeing: After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted fabric is taken in sample dyeing Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt. 10gm & liquor ratio 1:8. 6. Dispatch: After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by spectrophotometer or by eye vision in verified matching cabinet. If it shows “Metamerism” then recipe correction is done & again samples are prepared until no “Metamerism” & shade match occur. Then in a lab dip card 3 samples are attached. One card is sent to merchandiser & another to buyer through merchandiser. If the buyer chooses the sample then the recipe is send to the dyeing section for bulk production through lab dip program card.
  • 60. Page 60 5.3.3 Working Flow Chart of Color Lab: Fail Collect Swatch from Merchandiser Recipe Prediction (Data Color) Recipe Calculation Pipetting Machine Load Machine Unload (Soda Dosing) Machine Load Dyeing Finish After Treatment Dryer Ironing Lab dip Submit to Buyer Lab Approved Lab dip Sent to Dyeing Floor Rejection Light Box
  • 61. Page 61 5.3.4 Lab Dyeing Procedure for Cotton: Swatch receives Recipe prediction Pipetting Add leveling agent & salt Took fabric (Left for 20 min) Add soda Load on m/c (At 60°C, run 60 min) Unload Cold wash Hot wash at 95°C with detergent Cold wash Squeezing Drying
  • 62. Page 62 5.4 PHYSICAL LAB SECTION: 5.4.1 Fabric Strength Test: Sample Preparation:  At first 4 sample (20x5) cm is cut.  Then draw a vertical line up to 10cm from the middle part of the sample.  After that draw a horizontal line below 2.5cm from top of the sample.  Then cut the vertical line up to 10cm. Fig: Fabric Strength Tester Working Procedure:  At first test sample are placed into two jaws. The upper jaw is moveable and lower jaw is fixed. The distance between one jaws to another jaw is 10cm.  Then apply force until tearing the marked line.  Finally, we get the strength of the fabric. 5.4.2 Pilling Test: Sample Preparation:  At first 4 sample (5x5) cm is cut.  Then this sample is entangling into a tube which is attached by PVC tape.
  • 63. Page 63  After that sample is placed into pilling box and start the machine where at least 18, 00 revolutions are given.  Finally asses the sample by giving the rating (1-5). Figure: Pilling Tester 5.4.3 PH Test:  At first, take a PH paper.  Then immerse this PH paper into dyeing solution.  After that, we will match this PH paper with PH scale.  Finally, we can measure the exact PH of the solution.
  • 64. Page 64 5.4.4 Rubbing Test Figure: Crock Meter  At first, a dyed sample (15× 5)cm is placed on the base of the crock meter.  Then a un-dyed crocking cloth (5× 5)cm is attached to the finger( Which is used for rubbing action) of the crocking cloth which is white, plain weave, scoured, de-sized, bleached but without finishing.  Rubbing is done to & fro motion for both warp and weft way, 10 cycles at 10 second that mean 20 rubs in 20 s & finger pressure on the sample is 9 N. 5.4.5 Perspiration Test Figure: Perspirometer  At first perspiration solution that can be acidic or basic is taken into per-spirometer which is 50 times the sample weight.  Put the sample into solution 30 minute at room temperature.  Then the liquor is drained and places the sample between two glass plate and applied 4.5 Kg pressure on the plate and gives the screw.  After that perspirometer is kept into an incubator for 4 hrs. At (37±2)℃ temperature.  Finally, take out the sample and dry.  Then assess the sample by gray scale.
  • 65. Page 65 5.5 DYEING SECTION: 5.5.1 Organogram of Dyeing Section: AGM Sr. Manager Asst. Manager Production Officer Shift Incharge Supervisor Sr. Operator Operator Helper
  • 66. Page 66 5.5.2 Layout Plan of Dyeing Section:
  • 67. Page 67 5.5.3 Working Flow Chart for Dyeing: BATCHING SELECT MACHINE NO. FABRIC LOADING SELECT PRODUCTION PROGRAMME PRETREATMENT SELECT RECIPE FOR DYEING RECIPE CONFIRMED BY DM/PO DYEING POST TREATMENT UNLOAD
  • 68. Page 68 5.5.4 Picture of Dyeing Section: Picture of Dyeing Section
  • 69. Page 69 5.5.5 Cotton Dyeing Procedure: Scouring & Bleaching- 95c*60 ↓ Normal hot wash- 70c * 20 ↓ Acetic Acid- 50c*20 ↓ Enzyme Wash- 50c*60 ↓ Normal wash- 70c * 20 ↓ Dye bath- 60c*20 ↓ Color dosing- 60c*30 ↓ Run at- 60c* 30 ↓ Salt dosing- 60c* 20 ↓ Run at- 60c*15 ↓ Soda dosing- 60c*15 ↓ Swatch cutting ↓ Rinsing- 10min ↓ Normal wash- 40c*10 ↓ N.S.K Hot wash- 95c* 30 ↓ Acetic Acid- 50c*20 ↓ Fixing- 40c* 20 ↓ Softener- 40c*30
  • 70. Page 70 5.5.6 Viscose Dyeing Procedure: Scouring- 90c*30 ↓ Normal hot wash- 70c*20 ↓ Acid wash- 50c*20 ↓ Dye bath- 60c*40 ↓ Color dosing- 60c*40 ↓ Salt dosing- 60c*20 ↓ Soda dosing- 60c*60 ↓ Shade matching- 90 min ↓ Color hot wash- 80c*30 ↓ Acid wash- 50c*20 ↓ Softener- 40c*20 ↓ Unload
  • 71. Page 71 5.5.7 Polyester Dyeing Procedure: Scouring & Bleaching- 95c*60 ↓ Normal hot wash- 70c*20 ↓ Acetic Acid- 50c*20 ↓ Dye Bath- 50c*10 ↓ Color dosing- 50c*30 ↓ Heating up to- 130c*60 ↓ Reduction- 80c* 20 ↓ Enzyme wash- 80c*20 ↓ Dye bath- 60c*20 ↓ Color dosing- 60c*30 ↓ Run at- 60c* 30 ↓ Salt dosing- 60c* 20 ↓ Run at- 60c*15 ↓ Soda dosing- 60c*15 ↓ Swatch cutting ↓ Rinsing- 10min ↓
  • 72. Page 72 Normal wash- 40c*10 ↓ N.S.K Hot wash- 95c* 30 ↓ Acetic Acid- 50c*20 ↓ Fixing- 40c* 20 ↓ Softener- 40c*30 ↓ Unload
  • 73. Page 73 5.5.8 Dyeing Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used in Dyeing Section: Name of dyeing chemicals Example Functions Scouring agent Caustic soda, Sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO₃) The scouring agent is used to removing natural impurities such as dirt, dust, fat, wax etc. Acid Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), Hydrochloric acid (HCl). Acid is used to control the pH (1-7). Acid decreases the pH of the solution. To neutralize the solution Electrolyte/ Salt Sodium chloride (NaCl), Hydrochloric acid, Sodium hydroxide. Increase the exhaustion rate of dying process. The amount of salt depends on shade percentage of the material. Antifoaming agent Silicone(Si), Glycol Antifoaming agent is used to preventing the foam formation during, printing bleaching. The foam formed reduces the dying take up percentage. Sequestering agent Amino-carboxylic acids, Hydroxyl-carboxylic acids. Sequestering agent is used to reducing hardness of water. Wash/ Soaping agent Detergent The soaping agent is used for washing to remove unfixed dye from the material surface. Soda ash Sodium carbonate, Na2CO3 It can be used in dying to help the dye bond to the fabric effectively. Levelling agents Suffocated oils, carboxylic acid, silicone etc. Leveling agent is used to controlling the exhaustion rate of dye so that it can penetrate evenly and slowly. Anti-creasing agent Lubricant To reduce creasing tendency.
  • 74. Page 74 5.5.9 Different Types of Dyeing Faults & Remedies: Name of Faults Causes of Faults Remedies Uneven Dyeing Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). Improper color dosing. Using dyes of high fixation property. Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Lack of control on dyeing Machine. By ensuring even pretreatment. By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. Proper controlling of dyeing Machine. Batch to Batch Shade Variation Fluctuation of Temperature. Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals. Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals. Dyes lot variation. Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio. Improper pretreatment. Use standard dyes and chemicals. Maintain the same liquor ratio. Follow the standard pretreatment procedure. Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily. Patchy Dyeing Effect Entanglement of fabric. Faulty injection of alkali. Improper addition of color. Due to hardness of water. Due to improper salt addition. Dye migration during intermediate dyeing. Uneven heat in the machine, etc. By ensuring proper pretreatment. Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor. Proper salt addition.
  • 75. Page 75 Roll to Roll Variation Poor migration property of dyes. Improper dyes solubility. Hardness of water. Faulty Machine speed, etc. Use standard dyes and chemicals. Proper Machine speed. Use of soft water. Crease Mark Poor opening of the fabric rope. Shock cooling of synthetic material. If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal. Due to high speed Machine running. Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature. Reducing the Machine load. Higher liquor ratio. Dye Spot Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath. By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals. By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed. Softener Mark Improper mixing of the Softener. Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener. Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener. Maintaining proper mixing of the softener. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature. Higher liquor ratio. Wrinkle Mark Poor opening of the fabric rope. Shock cooling of synthetic material. Maintaining proper reel speed & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature. Higher liquor ratio.
  • 76. Page 76 5.6 DYEING FINISHING SECTION: 5.6.1 Finishing: Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber. 5.6.2 Objective of finishing: Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc. Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its softness, suppleness, fullness, etc. Wearing qualities, none — soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc. Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing, flame proofing, etc. Covering of the faults in the original cloth. Increasing the weight of the cloth. 5.6.3 Layout Plan of Finishing Section:
  • 77. Page 77 5.6.4 Flow Chart of Finishing Section: Finishing Section Open fabric Tube fabric Slitting machine Dewatering machine Stentering Drying Machine Compacting Tube compacting machine machine Final Final Inspection Inspection Fabric physical & chemical test Finish fabric store Finish fabric delivery. 5.6.5 Dyeing Finishing Machine activities: 1. Slitting machine/Dryer 2. Stenter machine (Control GSM & Dia & make fabric surface smooth by using Softener & heat) 3. Compacting machine (control GSM & Dia without using any chemical. Also called calendaring) 4. Brushing/ suiding machine (back side brush is called brushing & face side brush is called suiding/ pitch finish) 5. QC light check.
  • 78. Page 78 5.6.6 Picture of Finishing Section: Slitting Machine Stenter Machine Compactor Machine Brushing Machine
  • 79. Page 79 5.6.7 Chemical Used in Finishing Section: 5.6.8 Heat Setting Parameter: 5.6.9 Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Stenter Machine: Fabric Type GSM Dia Temperat Over Padder Speed Blower rpm ure Feed Pressue (rpm) Single jersey 115-150 2”+ 110-140 40-45% 2 bar 30-35 1100-1300 Single jersey 160-220 2”+ 120-170 40-45% 2.5 bar 25-30 1200-1400 Lycra Single 160-200 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 25-30 1200-1400 jersey Lycra Single 200-250 4”+ 140-160 50% 2 bar 24-28 1200-1400 jersey Pique 160-200 3”+ 130-160 40-45% 1.5-2bar 25-30 1200-1400 Lycra Pique 190-220 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400 Fleece/Terry 260-300 4”+ 140-170 40-45% 2 bar 20-25 1300-1400 1x1 Rib 160-220 2”+ 130-160 45% 2 bar 24-28 1300-1400 2x2 Rib 190-220 2”+ 140-160 45% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400 Interlock 190-220 3”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400 Chemical Name Function Softener To soft the fabric. GSP Especially soft the polyester fabric. EMA To prevent yellowing specially for deep color shade. Fiber name Temperature CVC 180℃ Polyester 190℃ Viscose 180℃
  • 80. Page 80 5.6.10 Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Open Compactor Machine: Fabric type Color Speed Over Feed Temperature Blanket Teflon Pressure Pressure Single White 15-18 25-30 90-110 1.5-2bar 36psi jersey Color 15-18 25-30 110-120 Pique White 15-18 30-35 100 1.5-2bar 36psi (s/j,d/j) Color 15-18 30-35 110-120 Lycra s/j White 12-16 Full 100-110 1.5-2bar 36psi Color 12-16 over feed 100-120 1x1 Rib White 15-20 20-30 100 1.5-2bar 36psi Color 15-20 20-30 110-120 2x2 Rib White 12-15 25-30 25- 100 1.5-2bar 36psi Color 12-15 30 110-120 Interlock White 12-16 Full 100 1.5-2bar 36psi Color 12-16 over feed 110-120
  • 81. Page 81 5.7 SAMPLE SECTION:  The style done by designer or developer.  Particular purchase order.  Sample is the specimen of any work.  Any revision to the style work.  Sample is a specimen or we can say a part which shows that the whole is look like.  Confirm with any specific requirement.  Sample is the physical form of design. 5.7.1 Layout Plan of Sample Section:
  • 82. Page 82 5.7.2 Organogram of Sample Section: Manager Asst. Manager Shift Incharge Supervisor Sr. Operator Operator Helper
  • 83. Page 83 5.7.3 Flow Chart of Sample Section: Sketch/Design (It is given by buyer for make sample and products are made according to that style of designed) Basic block (Without any allowance) Working pattern (To make of garment according to design) Sample making (sample is made by sample man) Basic manufacturing difference (Critical path is identify) Consumption (Marker man make marker and calculate the consumption) Costing (To estimate the making charge, fabric costing, trimmings and profit) Approved sample (Sample approved by buyer)
  • 84. Page 84 5.7.4 Types of Sample: Proto Sample: Initial sample just to see the capabilities of the factory whether can make such sample and style or not. Fit sample: To see the fittings of the garments especially in the dummy as such all the measurement gets the first priority. Size set sample: All size are made individually in a set that is called size set sample. Counter sample: Mainly represents the sample which is made according to the measurement of approved size set or pre-production sample. Pre-production sample: Pre-production sample have all sizes including all colors of fabric. Production sample: During production we should collect sample from production floor for sending it to buyer, these are called production sample. Test sample: These are the samples pulled out from the bulk to carry out varies types of lab test of the garments. Shipment sample: After final inspection when we ship out the goods to buyer’s destination 2 pieces of sample of any size should be sent to buyer by air in advance that is called shipment sample. After wash sample: These are samples sent to the buyer after either dry or wet wash to approve the wash quality.
  • 85. Page 85 5.7.5 The Details Attach to the Garments Sample: After the conformation of order ,each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of tag .It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc. they have used ( If applicable)  Ref no.  Color  Fabric  Composition  Description  Quality  Style no/size  Store There may be a separate sample department in a company .but as the merchandiser is a person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling Department works under the supervision of merchandising department .Also as the sample is to be made according to the buyers price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advice sampling department suitably. 5.8 PATTERN & MARKER SECTION: 5.8.1 Pattern: Pattern is the template of each and individual components of the garments, of exact dimensions which is made on hand paper. 5.8.2 Pattern making depends on: 1. Personal skill. 2. Experience of garments making. 3. Technical and technological knowledge. 4. Knowledge of design analysis.
  • 86. Page 86 5.8.3 Pattern Making by Hand (Basic T-Shirt): Process:  At first, take the measurement of length and width.  Then take the measurement of front neck drop (A) and back neck drop (B).  After that take the measurement of neck width (C) and added with front neck drop and back neck drop.  Take the measurement of across shoulder (D) and armhole straight (E).  After that take the measurement of ½ waists (F) which is 40/48 cm down from the HPS.  Finally, draw a curve by adding E, F & G. Neck Rib
  • 87. Page 87 Process:  At first take the measurement of neck width (A-B).  Then take the measurement of neck height (A-C). Sleeve Process:  At first, take the measurement of sleeve length (A-B) and width (A-C).  Then take the measurement of sleeve opening (B-D).  After that take the measurement of underarm (D-E).  Finally, draw a curve from (A-E). 5.8.4 Pattern Making By Lectra Modaris: Process of pattern making by using Lectra Modaris is given bellow- 1. Preparation 2. Sketch 3. Fine Tuning 4. Finalization 5.8.5 Marker Making: In AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. marker is made by using Lectra Diamino.
  • 88. Page 88 5.9 CUTTING SECTION: 5.9.1 Layout Plan of Cutting Section:
  • 89. Page 89 5.9.2 Organogram of Cutting Section:
  • 90. Page 90 5.9.3 Flow Chart of Cutting Section: Marker making Fabric issue Fabric receive Fabric input to cutting floor Lay making Set marker on lay Clamping Cutting Inspection Put sticker on cut panel/Numbering Sorting/Binding Panel Checking Re-Cutting Storing Send to sewing line
  • 91. Page 91 5.9.4 Lay Wise Fabric Consumption: Lay wise consumption Marker length(cm)x Fabric width(cm)x GSM x Total garments per marker 0r lay x Number of plies 100 x 100 x 1000 Example: Suppose we have made a 10 pieces marker which length is 350cm? If fabric GSM is 120 and width 72’’ so calculate the fabric consumption for 50 plies? Solution: Lay wise consumption = 350 x 182.88 x 120 x 10 x 50 100 x 100 x 1000 = 384 kg Fabric Lay Requirement Quantity & Relax Time: Fabric GSM Lay Quantity Relax Time (hr) S/J (Flat) 120-145 90-100 12-24 Lycra S/J (Flat) 145-180 80-90 24 S/J (Tube) 120-145 45-50 16-24 Lycra S/J (Tube) 145-180 40-45 24 1*1 Rib (Flat) 140-160 70-80 12-24 1*1 Rib (Flat) 165-200 50-60 16-24 1*1 Rib (Tube) 140-160 35-40 16-24 1*1 Rib (Tube) 165-200 25-30 16-24 1*1 Rib (Tube) 200-320 25-30 16-24 Pique (Tube) 160-200 35-40 24 Pique (Flat) 160-200 70-80 24 Interlock (Tube) 140-200 30-40 24 Fleece (All) 280-360 25-30 24 Maximum Cutting Lay Height……………2.5” Maximum Cutting Lay Length………………07 Yds.
  • 92. Page 92 5.9.5 Size Wise Cutting Quantity Calculation: Suppose we have received a production order of 12000 pcs and the order size ratio is S: M: L: XL respectively 1:2:2:1 Procedure:  At first, calculate the sum of size ratio.  Then divided the order quantity by sum of size ratio.  Finally, multiply the result by particular size ratio. Example: For small size= 12000 6 x 1 = 2000 For small size= 12000 6 x 2 = 4000 For small size= 12000 6 x 2 = 4000 For small size= 12000 6 x 1 = 2000 Finally we can write the formula: Size quantity = Total order quantity Sum of size ratio x Particular size ratio
  • 93. Page 93 5.9.6 Marker Attachment: After laying down the specific number of fabric on the cutting table the marker paper is overlaid on the fabric. Then the marker paper is attached to the fabric by some adhesive. Observations & Suggestions:  Excessive manpower allocated in this department.  Hand shears are used instead of end cutters leading to increasing of manpower need. Suggestion:  Keep the length of the spread between 7-8 m. this will help in faster and precise lay.  Spiral rollers should be used instead of plane surface rollers. To ensure even lay.  Two different lays of tubular knits can be spread at a time to utilize maximum width laying capacity of the spreader. 5.9.7 Fabric Cutting: Fabric cutting methods are as follows: Manual Method Computerized Method Scissor Knife Cutting Round knife water jet Band knife Laser cutting Straight knife Plasma torch cutting Cutting Section Quality Section: The step by step process by which we check quality in the Cutting Section. During Cutting:  Miss cut.  Matching plies.  Ragged Cutting.  Notches.  Pattern Check. After Cutting:  100% part Checking.  Numbering & Bundle Quality Control.  Reject Panel Replacement.
  • 94. Page 94 Summary of Working Procedure of Cutting Section:  Follow production planning.  Sample collect from sample section with pattern and garments approved.  Lay order sheet/ratio sheet fill up by cutting section (fabric width, Item, Color, Size, Style, etc.).  Lay order sheet fills up ok then send to cad section for marker making.  Marker making ok.  Fabric requisition from cutting section to store for cutting according to plan.  The fabric is coming in cutting table as per marker and cutting plan.  Fabric matches to trim card by merchandiser approved fabric width & length as per marker.  Then layering starts manual & machines all fabric. Pocketing and interlining.  After lay then spread marker upon on the fabric.  Marker checks by the pattern in quality people.  Keep all document make & style, color, & size wise send report to store & sewing line.  Before cutting cutter man attaches clamp. Gum tap on the layer.  If marker has drill mark then need to drill.  Cutting starts by cutterman.  Then group and ratio wise stricken.  As per lay, order sheet makes bundle chart and send to i.e. Section for bundle card printing.  As per bundle chart wise numbering.  Then panel check.  If have any fault need to replace cut bundle roll and shade wise then bundle and send to the line by input girl.  If has any fusing, embroidery than send to this section. When the cutting process is complete, the entire garment components are inspected for required production.
  • 95. Page 95 5.9.8 Photos of Cutting Section: Fig-1: Receive Finished Fabric Fig-2: Fabric Spreading Fig-3: Cutting Scissor Fig-4: Metal Hand Gloves Fig-5: Straight Knife Cutting Machine Fig-6: Sticker Tagging for Batching
  • 96. Page 96 5.10 PRINTING SECTION: 5.10.1 Print base on three type: 1) Water base 2) Rubber base 3) Oil base 5.10.2 Printing System: Screen Printing Hand screen printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing 5.10.3 Types of Printing:  Rubber Print  Pigment print  Plastisol Print  Apson Print  Crack Print  Discharge Print  Flock Print  Foil Print  Glitter Print  Hidensity  Puff Print  Photo Print
  • 97. Page 97 5.10.4 Flow Chart of Printing: Design: In design section, Designer divide the design according to color and print on tracing paper according to per color on per page. For photo print there will be positive on the place of tracing paper. For tracing paper solid color & size should be on A3 size. If want to make dot design, color percentage have to decrease. Design Expose: Frames are made in design Expose section. Frames make with different types of mesh fabric according to print. After making frame, TXR apply on mesh fabric. Dry TXR. Tracing paper put on the frame and heat the frame. Wash the frame & dry. Frames will be ready for use. Color Rope: Pigment print- Pigment pest→ Thickener+ Binder+ Water. Use Oxalic for fixing. Use any kind of color. Rubber print- 2 Ready pest→ i) NK Cobalt (594) ii) White pest (101). Use any kind of color Design Design Expose Color Rope Apply on Fabric
  • 98. Page 98 Discharge print- 2 Ready pest→ i) Fluro Tex DBC (Clear) ii) Floro Tex BEW (White). To discharge use RNS powder. Use color. Discharge print use on dark color fabric to show real color. Foil print- For machine use- plastisy sol Foil pest (ON421) pest. For Table use- Rubber Foil Pest (SPTOP Nk2) Plastisy sol print- White & Clear. There are direct color in plastisy sol. High-density print- We make hydensity print with plastisy sol. This print is make for density. Flock print- Ready flock pest (650). Metallic print- It is used by mixing Metallic powder, MK Binder 60TQ & liquid. Sublimation print- It’s used in polyester fabric. Its print on 100/80/60 GSM paper. Glitter print- It’s use by mixing Glitter pest (NK Nesine 6 AN) & Glitter. 5.10.5 Common Printing Defects: Measuring fault Print missing Wrong color Hand feel not correct Color migration problem Not properly attach Dirty marks Uneven print Air bubble Air hole Shade variation
  • 99. Page 99 5.10.6 Major Causes of Printing Defects: Screen & print body are not in same axis. Irregular wash of screen frame. Wrong color recipe. Insufficient drying of previous color. Inaccurate composition of fixture. Improper heat & pressure. 5.11 EMBROIDERY SECTION: Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. Today, embroidery is most often seen on caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts, denim, stockings, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available with a wide variety of thread or yarn color.
  • 100. Page 100 5.11.1 Different Types of Stitch Used in Embroidery Section:  Run stitch  Satin stitch  Tatami stitch  Motif stitch  Applique  Patch  Hand cutting  Sequin attach stitch  Terry EMB  Chain stitch  Zigzag stitch. 5.12 SEWING SECTION:
  • 101. Page 101 5.12.1 Layout Plan of Sewing Floor:
  • 102. Page 102 5.12.2 Organogram of Sewing Section:
  • 103. Page 103 5.12.3 Flow Chart of Sewing Section: Cut Fabric Load in Sewing Section Line Plan According to Style or Design Marking Batching According to Bundle Number Sewing According to Garments Design or Style Quality Inspection During Sewing Quality Inspection After Sewing Excess Thread Cutting Remove Dirts & Dusts from Garments Surface Quality Audit Send to Next Process
  • 104. Page 104 5.12.4 Function of Different Sewing Machine: Serial Machine Name Function 01. Plain Machine Attaching label into T-shirt, shirt, attaching the zipper, pocket, placket join, the bottom hem of pant etc. 02. Over Lock Machine T-shirt shoulder joins, side seam of sleeve & body, yoke join of pant etc. 03. Flat Lock Machine Neck piping of T-shirt (Flat bar), All type of top stitch (Cylinder), Bottom hem of T-shirt (Compressor) etc. 04. Bar Tack Machine Pocket, fly & loop corner, crutch point etc. 05. Button Hole Machine For making a button hole. 06. Button Attaching Machine For attaching button. 07. Kansai Machine For attaching elastic into waist belt. 5.12.5 Needle Used in Sewing Section: Serial No. Needle Name Machine Name Length 1 DB x 7 Plain Machine 3.8 2 DB x 9 Plain Machine 3.8 3 DB x 11 Plain Machine 3.8 4 DB x 14 Plain Machine 3.8 5 DC x 7 Over lock M/C 3.4 6 DC x 9 Over lock M/C 3.4 7 DC x 11 Over lock M/C 3.4 8 UY x 7 Flat lock M/C 4.5 9 UY x 9 Flat lock M/C 4.5 10 UY x 11 Flat lock M/C 4.5 11 UY x 14 Flat lock M/C 4.5 12 UO x 11 Kansai Machine 4.2 13 DP x 5 x Button Hole M/C 3.9 14 DP x 17 x 11 Bar tack M/C 4.4 15 DP x 5 x 9 Button Hole M/C 3.9 16 DP x 17 x 11 Bar tack M/C 4.4
  • 105. Page 105 5.12.6 Sewing Thread Consumption: For 1” Sewing Required Thread(Inch) Flat Lock (2T) 12 Flat Lock (3T) 17 Flat Lock (4T) 20-22 Flat Lock (5T) 24 Plain Machine 3 Flat Seam (5T) 28 Over Lock (3T) 15 Over Lock (4T) 18 Over Lock (5T) 22 5.12.7 Different Types of Sewing Faults, Causes and Remedies:  Skip Stitch Causes:  If the distance between one loop to another loop is more.  It the hook cannot pick the thread timely.  If the tension varies in lopper and needle thread. Remedies:  The timing of hook or lopper with a needle should be adjusted properly.  Adjust tension properly.
  • 106. Page 106  Broken Stitch Causes:  Used lower quality thread.  The improper unwinding of thread from the package. Remedies:  Used higher quality thread.  The Proper unwinding of thread from the package.  Seam Pucker Causes:  When two or more plies of fabrics are sewn together then one ply will be feed more than other so uneven stitch takes place as a result seam pucker create.  When two or more layers of fabric are sewn together then one layer shrinks more than others as a result different seam pucker is formed. Remedies:  The improved feed mechanism of the sewing machine.  Skill operator so that he can handle the fabric properly.  We have to test both fabrics shrinkage percentage before sewing and it should be less than 2%.
  • 107. Page 107  Unequal/Unbalance Stitch Causes:  Incorrect thread tension.  Incorrect passage of thread. Remedies:  Adjust thread tension.  Correct the passage of thread.  Open Seam Causes:  Lack of sewing allowance. Remedies:  Taking proper sewing allowance.
  • 108. Page 108  Fabric Damage at Seam Line Causes:  Mainly due to needle damage we can see this type of fault at seam line.  For this fabric damage, sewing strength becomes low and due to more fabric damage, fabric may be tearing off at the sewing line. Remedies:  Reduced machine or needle speed.  Proper selection of needle size, point etc.  Application of lubricant.
  • 109. Page 109 5.12.8 Photos of Sewing Section: Fig-1: Flat Lock Machine Fig-2: Over Lock Machine Fig-3: Plain Machine Fig-4: Button Attaching Machine Fig-5: Bar Tack Machine Fig-6: Button Hole Machine Fig-7: Kansai Sewing Machine Fig-8: Sample (Basic T-shirt)
  • 110. Page 110 5.13 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING SECTION: 5.13.1 Industrial engineering: according to American institute of industrial engineering’s (AIIE) defines “industrial engineering is concerned with the design, improvement and installation of integrated system of men, materials and equipment. It draws upon specializes knowledge and skills in the mathematical, physical science together with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify , predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems” 5.13.2 Objective of industrial engineering: the prime objective of industrial engineering is to increase the productivity by eliminating waste and non-value adding operations and improving the effective utilization of resources. 5.13.3 The activities of industrial engineering: The primary activities are spelled out by AIIE are: 1. Selection of process and assembling methods. 2. Selection and design of tools and equipment. 3. Design of facilities including plant location, layout of building machines and equipment’s, material handling system raw materials and finished goods storage facilities. 4 4. Design and improvement of planning and control system for productions, inventory, quality and plants maintenance and distributing systems. 5. Developing a cost control system such as budgetary control, cost analysis and standard costing. 6. Performance evaluation. 7. Installation of wage incentives schemes. 5.13.4 The Techniques of Industrial Engineering: 1. Method study: To establish a standard method of performing a job or an operation after thoroughly analysis of the jobs and to establish the layout of production facilities to have a uniform flow of material without back tracking. 2. Time study: This is a technique used to establish a standard time for a job or for an operation. 3. Motion study: This is used to analysis the motion employed by operators do the work. 4. Inventory control: To find the economic lot size and the recorders level for the item so that the item should be made available to the production at the right time and quantity to avoid stock out situation and with minimum capital lock up.
  • 111. Page 111 5. Job evaluation: This is a technique which is used to determine the relative worth of jobs of the organization to aid in matching jobs and personal and to arrive at sound wage policy. 6. Ergonomics: It is concerned with study of relationship between man and his working conditions to Minimize mental and physical stress. It is concerned with man machine system. 5.13.5 Calculation of SMV, Target & Efficiency  SMV (Standard Minute Value) : SMV is the time taken by a qualified worker to perform a specified task in a defined level of performance.  SMV calculation: SMV calculation of a basic T-shirt from a time study sheet of a garments industry. Following formulas are use- Normal time =Average observed time × performance rating factor SMV =Basic time + (Allowance × Basic time)  Observed time : Observed time comes from a direct observation by an observer that an operator takes to complete his/her relevant operation or elements.  Performance Rating: Observed rating Performance rating factor Standard rating 
  • 112. Page 112  Target calculation:  Efficiency Calculation: 5.13.6 Sewing Sequence for a Basic T-Shirt: Sequence of a Basic T-Shirt is given bellow-   60 Capacity Average of the observed time % of Allowance   No. of worker * work hours *60 Target * Expected Efficiency SMV  Produced minute *100 Overall Efficiency Used minutes    Produced minute *100 On standard Efficiency Used minutes – Non productive time 
  • 113. Page 113 SUBTOTAL 25 5.94 TARGET 202 OP No. Description M/C Attachment Man or M/C QTY SMV TGT/HR/MC TGT% (80%) Total 01. Front & back part match HP Hand 1 0.24 250 1 250 02. Care label attachment at left seam S/N Plain feed 1 0.21 286 1 286 03. Both shoulder join with tape O/L Pr. feed 1 0.29 207 1 207 04. Both shoulder scissoring HP Scissor 1 0.22 273 1 273 05. Neck rib make S/N Plain feed 1 0.19 316 1 316 06. Neck rib fold HP Hand 1 0.18 333 1 333 07. Neck rib join with body O/L Pr. feed 2 0.45 133 2 267 08. Back neck piping & cut S/N Folder 1 0.21 286 1 286 09. Main lebel make & back neck mark S/N Plain feed 1 0.28 214 1 214 10. Back neck piping end point tack & cut S/N Plain feed 1 0.28 214 1 214 11. Back neck top setting & main lebel insert S/N Plain feed 2 0.45 133 2 267 Machine Description Single needle 9 Over lock 8 Flat lock 2 Total machines 19 Helper(s) 6 Total Man Power 25 Buyer : H&M Item : Junior Cotton T-shirt (Adult) Style Number : 2222389 Fabric Type : Junior/Adult Order Quantity : 24280 pcs Finish GSM : 180 Production Rate : 82% Factory : AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. SMV Operators 4.64 Helpers 1.3 Total SMV 5.94
  • 114. Page 114 12. Sleeve open hem F/L D. set 1 0.26 231 1 231 13. Thread cut, sleeve & body match HP Cutter 1 0.23 261 1 261 14. Sleeve join O/L Pr. feed 2 0.50 120 2 240 15. Side seam O/L Pr. feed 3 0.77 78 3 234 16. Sleeve opening close tack S/N Plain feed 1 0.23 261 1 261 17. Sleeve opening press tack & thread cut S/N Plain feed 1 0.28 214 1 214 18. Thread cut & body fold HP Cutter 1 0.22 273 1 273 19. Bottom hem F/L D. set 1 0.24 250 1 250 20. Thread cut after hem HP Cutter 1 0.21 286 1 268 5.13.7 Sewing Sequence for a Ladies vest: Sequence of a ladies vest is given bellow-
  • 115. Page 115 OP No. Description M/C Name Man or M/C QTY SMV TTL CP/H 01. Care level tack with helper LSA RUMI 2 0.24 0.24 300 02. Care label attachment at left seam LSA FATEMA 1 0.21 0.21 353 03. Main label attach at bk nk LSA JORINA 2 0.29 0.29 200 04. Back part bk binding FL KALEDA 1 0.22 0.22 171 05. Front part bk binding FL SAIFUL 2 0.19 0.19 130 06. Right shoulder join OL KOLI 1 0.18 0.18 300 07. Armhole binding front part FL RATNA 2 0.45 0.45 120 08. Armhole binding bk part FL SOHEL 1 0.21 0.21 200 09. Left shoulder join OL SABANA 1 0.28 0.28 300 10. Nk close tack LSA NUR NAHAR 1 0.28 0.28 214 11. Side seam LSA KORIM 1 0.45 0.45 214 12. Armhole close tack OL BONNA 2 0.26 0.26 73 Machine Description Plain machine 14 Over lock 5 Flat lock 7 Total machines 26 Helper(s) 52 Total Man Power 78 Buyer : Sainsbury’s Item : Ladies vest Style Number : Jer110 Fabric Type : Junior/Adult Order Quantity : 24280 pcs Finish GSM : 150 Production Rate : 82% Factory : AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. SMV Operators 1.92 Helpers 1.3 Total SMV 2.95
  • 116. Page 116 13. Armhole close tack AKRAM 1 0.23 0.23 300 14. Armhole chap tack LSA LILY 1 0.50 0.50 300 15. Hanger loop attach at shoulder FL MIZAN 1 0.77 0.77 150 16. Btm hem LSA RAHIMA 1 0.23 0.23 250 17. Both shoulder psn close tack LSA KALEDA 1 0.28 0.28 200 18. Ring close at sholder psm LSA JESMIN 1 0.22 0.22 200 19. Ring cattach at chap tack LSA NIRI 1 0.24 0.24 71 20. Shoulder psn piping close LSA SOHEL 1 0.21 0.21 100 5.14 GARMENTS FINISHING SECTION:
  • 117. Page 117 5.14.1 Flow Process of Garments Finishing: Style Wise Goods Received Trimming Sucking Ironing Hang to Dry Quality Check Measurement Get up Check Labeling Metal Detecting Final Hanger Moisture Check Blister Poly Hang to Store Pre-final Inspection Final Inspection
  • 118. Page 118 5.14.2 Chemical Used to Remove Spot from Garments in Finishing Section: Spot name Chemical used Oil spot Spot lifter Dirty spot Thinner 5.14.3 Flow Process of Garments Packing: Receive finished garments Quality check(AQL) Folding Poly packing Cartoning Apply Scotch Tape on carton Packing completed
  • 119. Page 119 5.14.4 Poly Used in Garments Packing:  Piece poly  Size poly 5.14.5 Carton Used for Garments Packing: According to size:  Master carton  Inner carton  Box carton According to ply:  3-ply carton  5-ply carton  7-ply carton 5.14.6 Assortment System: 1. Solid Color Solid Size 2. Solid Color Assort Size 3. Assort Color Solid Size 4. Assort Color Assort Size
  • 120. Page 120 5.14.7 Photos of Finishing: Fig-1: Remove spot by using Chemical Fig-2: Ironing Fig-3: Attaching hang tag Fig-4: Inspection Fig-5: Folding Fig-6: Packing
  • 121. Page 121 CHAPTER SIX Quality Assurance System
  • 122. Page 122 6.1 Quality Assurance: In AKH GROUP Ltd. is more concern about quality. In this factory quality assurance is more preferred than quality control, but both are in advancement. This is a system to assure that products and services meet buyer requirements. To maintain the buyer quality to approve the sample. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing. 6.2 Objective of quality assurance:  To ensure aligning with the quality standards.  To plan and systematic quality activities.  To provide the confidence that the standards will be met. 6.3 Quality Control: Quality control is the operational techniques and activities that are used to fulfill requirements for quality. To control the quality of garments or products to techniques are followed, such as:  Testing &  Inspection 6.3.1 Testing: Maximum garments manufacturers apply inspection method due to high cost of testing equipment. In AKH GROUP are following the tests, such as:  Color fastness to light test  Rubbing test  Pilling test  pH test  Abrasion test  Phenolic yellowing test  Color fastness to wash test  Shrinkage test  Perspiration test  Color fastness to saliva test  Dimensional stability to washing  Water test  GSM check  Color fastness to household laundering  Pull test
  • 123. Page 123 6.3.2 Inspection: Inspection may be defined as the visual examination in relation to some standards. Mainly inspections are done in three steps in garments industries. The steps are: 1) Raw material Inspection 2) In process inspection 3) Final inspection 1. Raw material inspection: In garments industries, mainly raw material means fabric but sewing thread, zipper or chain, interlining, buttons and so on are fall under consideration. a. Fabric inspection: There are a number of systems available to inspect the fabric but AKH GROUP follow the FOUR POINT system: 4 point system Acceptance calculation TTL PST X36X100 0-3’’ 1 UP TO 20 POINTS = A ROLL LENGTH(YDS) X ACTUAL WIDTH >3”-6” 2 20-30 POINTS = B >6”-9” 3 30-40 POINTS = C >9” 4 ACCEPTABLE HOLE<1” 2 ABOVE = REJECTED NOT ACCEPTABLE HOLE>1” 4 2. In process inspection: It must examine different parts of garments before sewing is called in process inspection. In AKH GROUP they are following the three steps of garments making to gain the desired quality: A. Cutting process inspection: In cutting section quality is insure in two stages: A.1 Spreading quality control: Following points are checked during spreading. I. Table marking. II. Ends III. Tension IV. Leaning V. Narrow Goods VI. Counts VI. Ply height VII. Remnants VIII. Fabric flaws IX. Market placing A.2 After cutting quality control: After each cutting blocks and bundles are checks on the following points. I. Miss-cut II. Ragged cutting III. Pattern checks IV. Matching Plies V. Notches
  • 124. Page 124 B. Sewing process inspection: The following parameters are also checked in sewing process – a) Machine check. b) Tension. c) SPI checks d) Needle check. e) Cleanness. d) Table inspection. f) Inspection before wash. C. Finishing process inspection: The following parameters are also checked in finishing process – a) after wash garments must be keep in the box / table covering. b) Thread sucking. c) Iron inspection. d) Measurements inspection. e) Poly inspection of top of garments. f) Inspection before cartooning. 3. Final inspection: This is most important to the buyer side. Mainly size, from fitting and other Defects of a garments are inspected in the final inspection. In final inspection AKH GROUP are following the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level): ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL(AQL) LOT SIZE SAMPLE AQL 1.0 AQL 1.5 AQL 2.5 AQL 4.5 AQL 6.5 2-8 2 0 0 0 0 0 9-15 3 0 0 0 0 0 16-25 5 0 0 0 0 0 26-50 8 0 0 0 0 0 51-90 13 0 0 0 0 0 91-150 20 0 1 1 2 3 151-280 32 1 1 2 3 5 281-500 50 1 2 3 5 7 501-1200 80 2 3 5 7 10 1201-3200 125 3 5 7 10 14 3201-10000 200 5 7 10 14 21 10001-35000 315 7 10 14 21 21 35001-150000 500 10 14 21 21 21 150001-500000 800 14 21 21 21 21 500000-OVER 1250 21 21 21 21 21 6.4 Quality Standard: There are many different kinds of management systems and quality models. They are ISO 9001:2008-sets out the requirements of a quality management system. ISO 9004:2009-focuses on how to make a quality management system more efficient and effective. ISO 9000:2005-covers the basic concepts and language. But AKH GROUP in H&M buyer will not require a full ISO 9001 system is standard which is used globally and can be read as a reference.
  • 125. Page 125 6.5 Quality report: 6.5.1 Quality report on cutting:  Print test report  Laboratory report  In line inspection report  Shrinkage report  Daily marking checking report  Daily cut panel measurement report.  Spreading quality report 6.5.2 Quality report on sewing:  Inspection report (line and table)  Defect reduction report  7 pcs check report  Daily machine oil remover report  Quality audit report  Daily end line DHU (Defect hundred unit) report  Hourly production report  Daily rejection report  Line ways quality in hand report 6.5.3 Quality report on finishing:  Shrinkage report  In line inspection report  Quality audit report  Sharp tools control log report  Rejected good status report  Daily end line DHU report (finishing)  Final inspection report for garments  Country ways routine follow up. 6.6 Remarks: In AKH GROUP does not compromise with quality. They are assuring the best quality possible in all the processes.
  • 127. Page 127 7.1 Maintenance of Machinery: Maintenance is the actions taken to prevent a device or component from failing or repair normal equipment degradation experienced with the operation of the device to keep it in proper working order all machine & machine parts of knitting, dyeing and garments are maintained with extreme care. AKH GROUP leads maintenance with a troop of skilled mechanical fitters. Three types of maintenance are performed in AKH GROUP. They are; 1. Preventive maintenance 2. Break down maintenance. 3. Schedule maintenance. 1. Preventive maintenance: Actions performed periodically (or continuously) prior to functional failure to achieve the desired level of safety and reliability for an item. These actions are performed to prevent or reduce consequences of failures. 2. Break down maintenance: Breakdown maintenance is maintenance performed on equipment that has broken down and is unusable. It may be either planned or it can be unplanned. This type of maintenance is carried out only when machine remains stop due to- a. Break down for mechanical fault b. Break down for design changing 3. Schedule Maintenance: Every machine has a definite maintenance schedule which is performed after a certain periodic interval to ensure – a. Smooth production process b. Sound running of machine c. Longer useful life of machine d. Better quality of product e. Lower rejection of machine parts f. Lower load on operator 7.2 Maintenance Routine:
  • 128. Page 128 7.3 Organogram of Maintenance Section: 7.4 Flow Chart of Maintenance: GM AGM Manager Asst. Manager Shift Engineer Incharge Supervisor Operator Helper Inform to maintenance department Detect problem Problem can be repairing or replacing Repair can be solved immediately, replacing requires time Problem of machinery
  • 129. Page 129 7.5 Maintenance Procedure: 1) For there is any mechanical fault of machine which is responsible for production hamper, operator informs mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitters come and observe the problem firstly, and then they begin to fix it. 2) If mechanical fitters be unable to fix it, then they inform technical in-charge, he then comes in spot and fix it. 3) For there is any electrical problem of machine or serious founding mechanical problem, mechanical and electrical department are informed, they come and fix the problem. They commence at work after informing of knitting manager. There are two mechanical engineers in the department. 4) For restorative maintenance, senior production officer orders mechanical fitters to fit required machine for cam and needle arrangement and other necessary requirements in case of new design development. 7.6 Maintenance Tools/Equipment & Their Function: Maintenance Tools are that tools used in maintenance of a machine. Different types of maintenance tools are used in AKH Knitting & Dyeing for different machines every day. Name of some maintenance tools used in textile machine and their function are given below:
  • 130. Page 130 Tools Name & function Images Combination tools (Spanner) :  It is usually made of forged steel.  The size of spanners denotes the size of the bolt on which it can work. Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts Socket Ratchet set Function: Tightening of Nuts & bolts Slide Wrench :  They may consist of a slot, socket, pins, or moveable jaw for grasping the nut, with the rest of the tool serving as a handle applying pressure. Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts Hammer : Function: Forging hot metal, riveting, bending, Straightening, peening, stretching and swaging.
  • 131. Page 131 Screw driver:  Made of steel.  The blade is shaped on flattened to fit recesses in the head of screws on bolts. Function: Is a hand tool, designed to turn or release screws or bolts. L-Key:  Generally made of steel. Function: For loosing & tighten the screw Steel Tape: Function: To measure the length Pliers: Function: To grip anything & cut metal wires Hacksaw blade: Function: To cut any metal thing Punch: Function: Used to fit any worm out shaft Oil Can & Grease Gun : Function: For Oiling & greasing of moving Parts of M/C.
  • 132. Page 132 Drill M/C and Drill bit: Function: For Drilling. Toolbox: Function: Generally all necessary maintenance tools are kept in a box it is called tool box. Generally it is made of steel. 7.7 Remarks: AKH GROUP controls the machine problem in a systematic way. Because of standard machine maintenance system they suffer less.
  • 134. Page 134 8.1 Machine Description & Capacity of Utility Section: Sl. No. Machine Name Brand Model Origin Capacity Qty. 1 Air Compressor Kaeser ASD‐47 Germany 11 Bar 5 2 Air Compressor Kaeser ASD‐32 12 Bar 3 3 Air Compressor AtlasCopco GA‐30C India 10 Bar 1 4 Air Dryer Kaeser TC‐44 Germany 10 Bar 3 5 Air Dryer Kaeser TD‐61 Germany 18 Bar 5 6 Air Dryer Friul air dryer DFE‐61 India 16 Bar 1 7 BOILER Thermak SM‐80 B India 8 Ton 1 8 BOILER Forbus JNM‐891 India 6300 kg 1 9 BOILER Hurst 13952 American 1252 kg 1 10 BOILER Modan Bangladesh 250 kg 1 11 BOILER Thir mooil H‐2000 Germany 2000 kg 1 12 BOILER Hurst 16440 American 782 kg 1 13 Generator Caterpillar 3516 U.S.A 1030 KW 1 14 Generator Jenbacher J 320GS Austria 1065 KW 1 15 Generator Caterpillar 700 F U.S.A 508 KW 1 16 Generator Olympian GFP700‐1 U.K 508 KW 1 17 Generator Scania sp 500sc‐s Sweden 400 KW 1 18 REB Energypac Banladesh 400 KW 1 AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd has various types of utility service starting from Steam generator, Boiler, Air Compressor & other types of machines used for knitting, dyeing, finishing & sewing process. These utilities help to facilitate the production process as well as material management system. Heavy machineries like boiler, steam generators are in ground floor while the exhaust fan, cooling and humidifying air conditioner & other small machineries situated in required floor.