Management and technical procedure in apparel industry ( Merchandising )

MANAGEMENT AND TECHNICAL PROCEDURE
IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

MANAGEMENT AND TECHNICAL PROCEDURE
IN APPAREL INDUSTRY
Prepared For:-
Mr. Suhal Ahmed
Lecturer of the AMMT Department
Course Teacher:-AMM-421
Prepared by : -
Name : Md.Belal uddin
ID : 101011338
Group : D
Semester : 7th
11th
September, 2013
Shanto – Mariam University of Creative Technology
11th
September, 2013.

Mr. Suhal Ahmed
Lecturer of the AMM Department
Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology
Uttara, Dhaka.
Subject: INTERNSHIP PEPORT ON MANAGEMENT AND TECHINCAL PPROCEDURE IN APPARE
INDUSTRY.
Dear Sir,
With due respect to state that I am a student of SMUCT in 7th
semester, ID No, is 101011338,Group : D
department of AMM. You tell us to make an interne ship report on this semester. Now I would like to get
an opportunity to search ―Management and technical procedure in apparel industry‖.
I request to you that please give me permission to take the opportunity due to learn and search
information in apparel industry.
sincerely
……………………
MD.Belal uddin

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Topic name Page number
1. INTRODUCTION……………………………………………… 1
1.1.Objective ……………………………………………… 2
1.2.Methodology…………………………………………… 2
1.3.Scope…………………………………………………… 2
1.4.Limitation ……………………………………………… 2
2. COMPANY PROFILE………………………………………… 3
2.1.Corporate profile……………………………………… 4
2.2.Product & Buyer …………………………… 9
2.3.Organ gram Divine Textile LTD ………………………………… 28
2.4.Clients ……………………………………………… 31
3. DESIGN & PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT………………… 33
3.1.Design development…………………………………… 33
3.2. Responsibility of design & product development manager 35
3.3.G-star raw……………………………………………… 35
3.4.Debenhams……………………………………………… 36
3.5.Marks & Spencer……………………………………… 37
3.6.Decathlon………………………………………………… 38
3.7.Puma……………………………………………………… 39
3.8.Responsibility of design &product development 39
4. SAMPLE DEPARTMENT…………………………………… 40
4.1.Sample…………………………………………………… 40
4.2.Sample approval………………………………………… 40
4.3.Responsibility of sample room ………………………….. 43
4.4.Types of sample and their use ………………………… 43
4.5.Sample Procedure……………………………………… 44
4.6.Type of machine in sample department………………… 45
4.7.Sampling stages of different buyers……………………….. 46

5. PATTERN………………………………………………………... 49
5.1.Pattern……………………………………………………… 49
5.2.Pattern making flow chart…………………………………. 50
5.3.Consumption……………………………………………… 50
5.4.Hard ware and software used in pattern making…………… 55
5.5.Personal opinion ………………………………………….. 56
6. COMPUTER-AIDED DESIGN COMPUTER-AIDED DESIGN 57
6.1.CAD………………………………………………………… 57
6.2.Software used in CAD…………………………………… 57
6.3.Responsibility of CAD manager………………………… 57
6.4.Types of marker…………………………………………… 58
6.5.Total capacity in CAD room…………………………… 59
6.6.Work flow of pattern……………………………………… 59
6.7.1. Basic t shirt……………………………………………… 60
6.7.2. Sleeve………………………………………………………...… 61
6.8. Things to be concern for T-shirt……………………… 61
6.9. Pattern making stage…………………………………… 61
6.10. Responsibility of pattern room………………………… 62
7. DYEING DEPARTMENT………………………………………… 62
7.1 Dyeing…………………………………………………… 62
7.2 Dyes………………………………………………………… 62
7.3 Natural dye………………………………………………… 62
7.4 Synthetic dyes…………………………………………… 63
7.5 Dyeing method…………………………………………… 64
7.5.1 Piece dye…………………………..…………………… 64
7.5.2 Yarn dye………………………………………………… 65
7.5.3 Space dyeing………………………………………… 65
7.5.4 Pad dyeing……………………………………………… 65
7.6 Dyeing procedure flow chart…………………………… 67
7.7 Pre treatment process…………………………………… 67

7.8 Material names related to dyeing……………………… 69
7.9 Dying fault………………………………………………… 74
7.10 Finishing floor…………………………………………… 74
7.11 Finishing M/C description……………………………… 76
7.12 Process flow chart of final inspection……………… 77
7.13 Organogram of QAD……………………………………… 78
8 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT…………………………… 80
8.1 Merchandising…………………………………………… 80
8.2 Apparel merchandiser …………………………… 80
8.3 Production flow of Sales & distribution ………………………… 82
8.4 Major Products VS Customer Base…………………… 85
8.5 Merchandising Seasons………………………………… 88
9. PRODUCTION PLANNING DEPARTMENT…………………… 89
9.1. Production Planning……………………………………… 89
9.2. Types of production plan………………………………… 90
9.3. Daily production plan…………………………………… 91
9.4. Weekly production plan………………………………… 91
9.5. Monthly production……………………………………… 91
9.6. Yearly Production plan…………………………………… 93
9.7. Projection plan…………………………………………… 94
9.8. Details Production plan………………………………… 95
9.9. Work flow………………………………………………… 96
Some Image Of Different Section 97
10. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT………………… 108
10.1. Industrial engineering…………………………………… 108
10.2. SOP (Standard operating procedure)…………………… 109
10.3. Goals of IE department…………………………………… 109
10.4. IE team in Divine Group……………………………………… 110
10.5. SMV calculation…………………………………………… 111
10.6. Software used in Divine Group …………………………… 113

10.7. Lean management………………………………………… 117
11. CUTTING DEPARTMENT………………………………………… 119
11.1. Cutting method…………………………………………… 119
11.2. Capacity of Divine Group ……………………………………….. 119
11.3. Work procedure of cutting department…………………… 120
11.4. SOP of cutting Department………………………………….. 122
12. PRINTING DEPARTMENT………………………………………….. 128
12.1. Printing ………………………………………………………. 128
12.2. General Overview…………………………………………. 128
12.3. Machine Information…………………………………… 129
12.4. Methods of printing…………………………………… 130
12.5. Preparation of cloth for printing…………………………. 130
12.6. Types of print…………………………………………… 132
12.7. Total print in Divine Group ……………………………… 133
13. 135EMBROIDERY…………………………… 135
13.1. Types of embroidery………………………… 135
13.2. Capacity of Divine Group …………………………… 136
13.3. Material used…………………………………… 137
13.4. Interlining used…………………………………… 137
13.5. Design analysis……………………………………… 138
13.6. Defect…………………………………………… 139
14. STORE………………………………………………………………… 139
14.1. Store /ware house……………………………………… 139
14.2. Work flow process……………………………………… 141
14.3. Software use in store…………………………………… 142
15. SEWING DEPARTMENT………………………………………… 143
15.1. Sewing……………………………………………………… 143
15.2. Types of stitches………………………………………… 144
15.3. Total production…………………………………………… 144
15.4. Sewing work flow………………………………………… 145

15.5. Sewing Lay- outs………………………………………… 146
15.6. Products are made in Divine Group …………………… 148
16. FINISHING DEPARTMENT……………………………………… 148
16.1. Finishing…………………………………………………… 148
16.2. Finishing flow chart……………………………………… 149
16.3. Packing list………………………………………………… 150
16.4. Assortment………………………………………………… 150
17. WASHING DEPARTMENT………………………………………… 151
17.1. Washing…………………………………………………… 151
17.2. Washing layout…………………………………………… 152
17.3. Capacity…………………………………………………… 154
17.4. Types of washing………………………………………… 155
17.5. Faults……………………………………………………… 155
17.6. Quality Control…………………………………………… 156
17.7. WASHING instruction……………………………………… 157
18. QUALITY DEPARTMENT………………………………………… 162
18.1. Quality……………………………………………………… 162
18.2. Activities of quality department……………………… 164
18.3. Liaison with other departments……………………… 165
18.4. Sewing line quality related person & their responsibility 167
18.5. Acceptable quality level………………………………… 168
18.6. Traffic light system……………………………………… 170
19. LABORATORY…………………………………………………… 171
19.1. Lab work flow……………………………………………… 171
19.2. Works of LAB……………………………………………… 173
20. COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT…………………………………… 175
21. BANGLADESH TEXTILE MILLS ASSOCIATION…………… 181
22. BANGLADESH KNITWEAR MANUFACTURERS & EXPORTERS
ASSOCIATION
186
23. CUSTOMS………………………………………………………… 189

24. BANK& INSURANCE……………………………………………… 190
25. CONCLUSION……………………………………………………… 193
26. APPENDIX…………………………………………………………… 194

1
1. INTRODUCTION.
The ready-made garment (RMG) industry of Bangladesh started in the late 1970s and
became a prominent player in the economy within a short period of time. The industry has
contributed to export earnings, foreign exchange earnings, employment creation, poverty
alleviation and the empowerment of women. The export-quota system and the availability
of cheap labor are the two main reasons behind the success of the industry. In the 1980s,
the RMG industry of Bangladesh was concentrated mainly in manufacturing and exporting
woven products. Since the early 1990s, the knit section of the industry has started to
expand. Shirts, T-shirts, trousers, sweaters and jackets are the main products manufactured
and exported by the industry.
Bangladesh exports its RMG products mainly to the United States of America and the
European Union. These two destinations account for more than a 90 per cent share of the
country’s total earnings from garment exports. The country has achieved some product
diversification in both the United States and the European Union. Recently, the country has
achieved some level of product upgrading in the European Union, but not to a significant
extent in the United States. Bangladesh is less competitive compared with China or India in
the United States and it is somewhat competitive in the European Union.
The phase-out of the export-quota system from the beginning of 2005 has raised the
competitiveness issue of the Bangladesh RMG industry as a top priority topic. The most
important task for the industry is to reduce the lead time of garment manufacturing. The
improvement of deep-level competitiveness through a reduction in total “production and
distribution” time will improve surface-level competitiveness by reducing lead time. Such a
strategy is important for long-term stable development of the industry, but its
implementation will take time. In contrast, the establishment of a central or common
bonded warehouse will improve surface-level competitiveness by reducing lead time, but
deep-level competitiveness will not be improved and long-term industry development will
be delayed. Therefore, granting permission to establish in the private sector such
warehouses with special incentives, such as the duty-free import of raw materials usable in
the export-oriented garment industry for reducing the lead time in garment manufacturing
is a critical issue for Bangladesh.
Second, Bangladesh needs to improve the factory working environment and various social
issues related to the RMG industry. International buyers are very particular about
compliance with codes of conduct. Third, issues related to product and market
diversification as well as upgrading products needs to be addressed with special care.
Moreover, the Government of Bangladesh needs to strengthen its support. The
development of the port and other physical infrastructure, the smooth supply of utilities, a
corruption-free business environment and political stability are some priority concerns for
the Government to consider in its efforts to attract international buyers and investors.

2
1.1 .Objectives
The goal of the project is to know management & production system standards for garment
industry. The impact envisaged is an overall Procedure & management of the garment industry
of Bangladesh. The industries need to be award of good working environment-management
procedure. Deference between practical &theoretical knowledge.
1.2. Methodology
To achieve those Objectives some Methodology should be maintained. They are written below-
 Reading books, searching the internet, taking help from teachers the concept can be clarified.
 For the information about the industry many sources like internet, Business journals, local
magazines & newspapers etc can help.
 To know about the culture and need, some research & survey can be made.
 For creative thinking a proper place & environment is necessary.
 To analyze the target area different type of research, survey can be made.
 To spread the awareness, TV, Radio, newspaper, magazines, different websites etc can be
used.
1.3. Scope
The scope of this research is limited. As per the research will help all of us to understand the
promising management system of garment industries. I want to make a proper mirror of
Bangladesh garment industry management and what steps should we take to make it a
standard management.
1.4. Limitations
Time had been the major limitation in preparing this report. It was mostly impossible to
interview every staff or management of the garment manufacturing units, as they were
apprehensive of speaking without management permissions. Transport was a big problem.

28
2.3. Organ gram Divine Textile LTD.
Basic Organizational organogram of Divine Textile LTD.
Managing
Director
Hangtag man
Admin Purchase Accounts
A/M S/M A/M
P/M
APM
Technician W/S/I
Cutting In charge AFM
Cutting Sewing W/S Finishing Maintenance
Q/C PDS Store
QCM
Technician
Shift in charge
Finishing in
charge

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CUTTING DEPARTMENT ORGANOGRAM

Cutting Manager
Marker Man
Cutting In charge
Cutting co-coordinator
Cutting Supervisor
Cutter Man
Fabric Receiver
Cutting Assistance
Bundle Witter
Bundle Operator
Number Attach Operator
Input operator
Spreading operator

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SEWING DEPARTMENT ORGANOGRAM
Measurement checker
Production manager
A Production manager
Quality controller
Quality inspector
Super visor
Operator
Line chief
Q.C. Super visor
Helper

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FINISHING DEPARTMENT ORGANOGRAM
Finishing in charge
Finishing coordinator
Finishing supervisor Thread sucker
Spot remover
Cartoon man
Size man
Hangtag man
Polly man
Helper
Iron man
Folding man
Assortment &
packing
Shade matching
man

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2.4. CLIENTS:
 Target Australia
 Carrefour
 Lindex
 Charles Vogele
 Mark’s Work Wearhouse
 Calvin Klien
 K-Mart
 TCHIBO
 H & M (Hennes & Mauritz)
Approximately twenty departments are available in the company
Location of all departments:
Ground floor:
 Cutting section
 Store room
 Sample section
 Pattern and marker making section
 Sewing section
 Knitting section

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1st
floor:
 Director room
 HR department
 Admin department
 Production department
 Accounts department
 IT department
 Compliance
 Sewing section
 Machine maintenance section
2nd
floor:
 Work study department
 Welfare department
 Finishing section
 Quality inspection section
 Buyer inspection
DESIGN & PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
3.1. Design development
D- Determination.
E- Ethics.
S- Sensitivity.
I- Innovation
G-Generation
N-Negotiation
1.
a. A drawing or sketch.
b. A graphic representation, especially a detailed plan for construction or
manufacture.

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2. The purposeful or inventive arrangement of parts or details: the aerodynamic design
of an automobile; furniture of simple but elegant design.
1. The art or practice of designing or making designs.
2. Something designed especially a decorative or an artistic work.
3. An ornamental pattern. See
4. A basic scheme or pattern that affects and controls function or development: the overall design
of an epic poem.
5. A plan; a project. See synonyms at plan.
6. To form a strategy for: blueprint, cast, chart, conceive, contrive, devise, formulate, frame, lay,
plan, project, scheme, strategize, work out. Informal dope out. Idioms: lay plans.
7. To work out and arrange the parts or details of: blueprint, lay out, map (out), plan, set out.
8. To have in mind as a goal or purpose: aim, contemplate, intend, mean, plan, project, propose,
purpose, target. Regional mind.
9. An element or a component in a decorative composition: device, figure, motif, motive, pattern.
10. A method for making, doing, or accomplishing something: blueprint, game plan, idea, layout,
plan, project, schema, scheme, strategy.
11. What one intends to do or achieve: aim, ambition, end, goal, intent, intention, mark, meaning,
object, objective, point, purpose, target, view, why. Idioms: end in view, why and wherefore.
Design, plan or arrangement of line, form, mass, color, and space in a pattern. A design may be created
to serve a functional purpose as in architecture and in industrial designs or else purely to provide
aesthetic pleasure. The design may refer to preparatory stages for a work of art or it may be extended to
include the compositional elements in a finished work of art.
Design is the planning that lays the basis for the making of every object or system. In a broader
way, it means applied arts and engineering .As a verb, "to design" refers to the process of
originating and developing a plan for a product, structure, system, or component with intention.
As a noun, "a design" is used for either the final (solution) plan (e.g. proposal, drawing, model,
description) or the result of implementing that plan in the form of the final product of a design
process. This classification aside, in its broadest sense no other limitations exist and the final
product can be anything from clothing to graphical user interfaces to skyscrapers. Even virtual
concepts such as corporate identity and cultural traditions such as celebration of certain holidays
are sometimes designed. More recently, processes (in general) have also been treated as products
of design, giving new meaning to the term process design.
The person designing is called a designer, which is also a term used for people who work
professionally in one of the various design areas, usually also specifying which area is being
dealt with (such as a fashion designer, concept designer or web designer). Designing often
requires a designer to consider the aesthetic, functional, and many other aspects of an object or a
process, which usually requires considerable research, thought, modeling, interactive adjustment,
and re-design. With such a broad definition, there is no universal language or unifying institution
for designers of all disciplines. This allows for many differing philosophies and approaches
toward the subject. However, serious study of design demands increased focus on the design
process
Typical stages of the design process include:
 Pre-production design

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o Design brief – an early often the beginning statement of design goals
o Analysis – analysis of current design goals
o Research – investigating similar design solutions in the field or related topics
o Specification – specifying requirements of a design solution for a product (product
design specification[6]
) or service.
o Problem solving – conceptualizing and documenting design solutions
o Presentation – presenting design solutions
 Design during production
o Development – continuation and improvement of a designed solution
o Testing – in situ testing a designed solution
 Post-production design feedback for future designs
o Implementation – introducing the designed solution into the environment
o Evaluation and conclusion – summary of process and results, including constructive
criticism and suggestions for future improvements
 Redesign – any or all stages in the design process repeated (with corrections made) at any time
before, during, or after production.
These stages are not universally accepted but do relate typical design process activities. For each
activity there are many best practices for completing them
3.2. Responsibility of design & product development manager:
1. Mail correspondent.
2. Distribute responsibility among the sub-ordinates.
3. Production development.
4. Contact with buyer.
5. Design negotiation with buyer.
6. Make the design production friendly.
7. Booking sample.
8. Feed back to customer.
9. To aware the production line.
10. Improvise product flow
G-star raw:
Work flow of G-star raw:
Fabric development meeting
Proto Tec pack [art work development]

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Sells man sample
Production book
Sealer sample
Size set sample
Production
Buying seasons are mainly two types:
1. Summer [main]
2. Winter[main]
3. Fall [pre]
4. Autumn[pre]
Buyer gives seals during seal sample for G-star raw
Silver seal – is for free to cut product.
Golden seal- is for to go on production.
3.4. Debenhams:
They have two seasons
1. SS: spring, summer.
2. AW: autumn, winter.
Work flow:
Tec pack comes through buyer

Brief


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Development/proto sample

Order confirm

Fit sample

Green seal [actual materials

Size set

Production

Revise proto [if any problem occurs]

Sells and distribution

Gold seal
3.5. Marks & Spencer:
Tec pack receive
Fabric& accessories booking
Pattern

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Cutting
Sample [3piecs buying sample] [1 pc counter copy, 1copy for Dhaka office, 1 pc for UK office]
Remake buying sample [if any comment have]
Give stoke number
Contract seal sample [after confirmation] [5pices medium size sample, 2pices excel size]
Pilot run sample [if any change]
Rack sample
Approval [all approval gather from design &product development]
3.6. Decathlon:
Size set
Master sample

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3.7. Puma:
Pre proto sample *1o to 12 time’s technical change+
Proto sample [1color]
Plm [product line manager for size setting sample]
Preview sample
Sms sample [sells man sample]
3.8. Responsibility of design &product development:
 Production development
 Perfect development
 Transfer paper/sketch to garments
 Feed back to customer
 Booking sample
 Make the design & production friends

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SAMPLE DEPARTMENT
4.1. Sample
A sample is a subset of a population. Typically, the population is very large, making a census or a
complete enumeration of all the values in the population impractical or impossible. The sample
represents a subset of manageable size. Samples are collected and statistics are calculated from the
samples so that one can make inferences or extrapolations from the sample to the population. This
process of collecting information from a sample is referred to as sampling.
The best way to avoid a biased or unrepresentative sample is to select a random sample, also known as
a probability sample. A random sample is defined as a sample where the probability that any individual
member from the population being selected as part of the sample is exactly the same as any other
individual member of the population. Several types of random samples are simple random samples,
systematic samples, stratified random samples, and cluster random samples.
Sampling is the ultimate important to express our products and quality to our customer. As per the
customers requirement perfection and taste we produce the samples and provide to them has many as
they required. Usually samples are asked to know whether a company is fit to produce the customers
required product. We have inbuilt sampling division with experience quality controller and skilled labors
to make out good quality products.
Samples are mainly six types:-
I. Proto sample.
II. Size set sample.
III. Pre-production sample.
IV. Production sample.
V. Conformity sample.
VI. Shipping sample.
Proto sample
To see your product quality buyer want it and if buyer satisfy with its quality then buyer want
salesman samples. Proto sample is the initial sample made by the manufacturer as per as the
details of the export order, and send to the buyer, to check whether the styling of the garment is
ok as per the requirement of the buyer. Proto Sample can be made in alternative fabric &
accessories, which is not with the original fabric and accessories. That is as per the sketch &
space in the production order (P.O) sheet).
4.2. Approval sample:
The manufacturing must produce sample prior to communication of the mass scale production of
a particular style. The number of samples required, vary from buyer to buyer. Most of the time
buyers ask for 3-5 samples from the manufacturer. When constructing these samples the
manufacture’s instruction should be followed.

41
The original patterns, original sample & the specification are required to produce these samples.
After constructing these samples manufacturer should send them to the buyer or to the agents to
get the approval for the mass production. There are two main types of approval samples and they
are known as:
- Fit approval samples
- Size series samples.
When an order is placed and confirmed, the manufacturer has to produce samples for the buyer.
The required size of the samples is generally given by the buyer. If the size of samples is not
given the middle size of the order range is taken as the appropriate size. That is if an order is
given for a range of sizes, then the sample garment is made from the middle size. The samples
produce for the given size or the middle sizes of the order are known as fit approval samples.
Once fit approval samples are approved by the buyers, request for samples in all the sizes of the
order before the mass production starts. Then they are in a position to see the quality of the
samples of all size of the order. These samples are known as size series samples. Even if there is
no such request from the buyer, it is batter to produce to size series samples for use within the
factory. Then they can identify the problem that might occur, when they produce different size in
the mass production.
Size Set Samples:
The Samples before a mass production is carried on to ensure whether the fit and size is been obtained.
Manufacturers produce different size from an order, style and color and get them approved from
revenant customer.
Size set sample contains all the size of the export order contains sizes small, medium, large size. Then
the size set is sample will contain all the size, the sample S are made by grading the M size sample.
Alternative fabric & accessories can make this Sample.
Pre-production Samples:
Manufacturer produces samples before the production of the order when carried out. A Pilot run is
been made to ensure that the quality, Fit, Size of the garment is be obtained in mass production.
Original fabric & Accessories make PP Sample, and this sample is made just before the Bulk
production. This sample represents the original garment to be made in Bulk production. The
buyer checks the PP samples & after the Buyer gives approval on PP sample, and then only the
manufacture goes for bulk production of the export order. PP sample should include all the
colors of the style.
Production Sample:
Production Sample is taken from production unit, by the bulk production is continuing,
production sample represents the original production pieces to be exported to Buyer. Usually the
exporter send production sample to Buyer once only, during the Bulk production, But in some

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cases where the export order quantity is large enough for single style for example in case of
Buyer – Wal-Mart,
The production samples were sent three times during the Bulk production. First Sample sent
during 20% to 30% of Bulk production. Second fit sample sent during 50% to 60% of Bulk
production and third production sample sent during 70% to 80% of Bulk Production.
Offer Samples:
If the factory wants to attract new buyers, they have to be won by showing samples of garments
that the manufacturer can offer. For this purpose they produce on their own, samples of new
designs. These samples are known as offer samples. The ultimate objective of producing these
offer samples is to attract new buyers to find new markets.
Shipment Samples:
This Sample the manufacture keeps with them, covering all sizes & colors of the style of garments they
exported. It is for the reference pieces, just to keep record for future reference. Garment produces this
samples to the customer after all the requirements like accessories, poly bag, tag etc is been made and
kept ready to ship the good before dispatched.
Sample approval:
Sample approval is a process whereby the supplier will make a sample of the agreed design for
the purchaser to approval before mass production. The reason is the sample needs to be made as
per agreement for whatever material, size, color. If factory is not able to make sample as per
agreed in the agreement, they should inform the purchaser as soon as possible (A.S.A.P.) of the
reason for not being about to make a actual agreed sample. It could be due to lack of the agreed
material in the market to make sample. Factory needs ask the material factory to make the
customize material in order to make samples Or Due to certain process it is not possible to make
sample for 1 or 2 pieces.
While fabric and trim ordering is happening, simultaneously the sample approval procedure is also
underway. The moment a style is selected it goes to the tech department for fitting. Here models wear
the samples and they are evaluated in terms of fit, construction, measurement. The buyer then sends
out comments, which are called as fit comments. In case another sample is requested the factory makes
the same incorporating the comments and send again to buyer. This process is called fit cycle. Different
customers have different no of fit cycles.
In DIVINE :
Sample:Sample is the proto type or model of garment upon what the buyer can decide on how and
whether to confirm the order or not

43
In DIVINE:
Sample:
Sample is the proto type or model of garment upon what the buyer can decide on how and whether to
confirm the order or not.
4.3 Responsibility of sample room:
1. Mail corresponding
2. Deals with byre
3. All goods should be as per buyer requirement
4. Analysis all comment of buyer.
5. Revising sample.
4.4. Types of sample and their use:
Serial no. sample use
1. Proto sample To convert the pattern into actual garment.
2. Size set /grade/ fitting sample To fit the styling of the garment.
3. Additional sample (white only
magazine proto shot)
All these samples are made to show garment on
rack.
4. Contract seal/seal sample To gain approval before the bulk production.
5. Pre production sample To gain approval before the bulk production
6. Production sample To gain approval for shipping the garment.
7. Sales man sample To gain approval for the bulk production
8. Rack sample To show the garment on the rack

44
4.5 Sample Procedure:
Sourcing the fabric and accessories for making the garment
Cutting (for sample only)
Embellishment
Sewing
Iron
Quality controller
Pre check from
sBuyer QC
Forwarding collects from the merchandiser
Sending sample to the buyer

45
4.6 Type of machine in sample department in Divine Par Line :
Serial no Types of machine Qty in paces use
1. Single needle lock stitch 52 Single stitch
2. 4thread over lock 20 Using 4 threads to lock the joint
3. Flat lock 17 Normal stitch
4. Blind lock 1 Straight over lock hem
5. Chain stitch machine(single needle) 2 Making chain stitch in garment
6. Over lock open stitch 1 Over lock
7. PMD Kansai 1 Attaching button in the
garment
8. Bar tack 1 Heavy stitch
9. Button attach 1 Attaching button in the
garment
10. Button hole 1 Making button hole
11. Shadle stitch 1 Straight sewing
12. Thread recone 1 Thread transferring between
bobbins
13. Snap button 1 Metal button attachment
14. Plain machine zigzag 1 Crosses sewing
15. Back neck tape attach 1 Attaching back neck tape
Total 102

46
4.7 Sampling stages of different buyers
S. Oliver:
Proto/development sample (2pices)
Salesman sample (sms)[4o pieces ]
Size set [3pices]
Pre production sample [3pices]
Marks &Spencer:
Buying/development sample
Fit sample (to fit on the best size) [2 pieces]
Grading sample [1set]
Contract seal [1pices]

47
Go for production
Rack sample [2pices]
Espirit:
Proto/development sample [1 pieces]
Salesman sample (sms) [70 or 80 pieces]
Fit pilot Run [1pieces]
Go for production [1pieces]
Pre production sample [1pieces]
G. star-raw:
Proto Tec pack [art work development]
Sells man sample.

48
Production book
Sealer sample
Size set sample
Puma:
Price tips sample [1pieces]
Pre proto sample [1-3 pieces]
Proto sample [3 pieces]
Production line meeting (before sms)[2-4 pieces]
SLM (sms) [2-80 pieces]
Size set [1-3set]
Seal sample [3pieces]

49
PATTERN
5.1. Pattern
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is an original garment from which other garments of a
similar style are copied, or the paper or cardboard templates from which the parts of a garment
are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling (sometimes called paper patterns).
Pattern making, pattern making or pattern cutting is the art of designing patterns. A custom-fitted
basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be created is called a sloper or
block.
A custom dressmaker frequently employs one of three pattern creation methods. The flat-pattern
method begins with the creation of a sloper or block, a basic pattern for a fitted, jewel-neck
bodice and narrow skirt, made to the wearer's measurements. The sloper is usually made of
lightweight cardboard or tag board, without nom seam allowances or style details. Once the
shape of the sloper has been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toiles (UK)
or muslins (US), the final sloper can be used in turn to create patterns for many styles of
garments with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so on.
Although it is also used for women's' clothing, the drafting method is more commonly employed
in men's garments and involves drafting a pattern directly onto pattern paper using a variety of
straightedges and curves.
The pattern draping method is used for more elaborate and unique designs that are hard to obtain
through the flat pattern method. This is because it is nearly impossible to account for the way a
fabric will drape or hang on the body without an actual 3-dimensional test run. It involves
creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring
the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.
The making of industrial patterns begins with an existing block pattern that most closely resembles the
designer's vision. Patterns are cut of oak-tag (manila folder) paper, punched with a hole and stored by
hanging with a special hook. The pattern is first checked for accuracy, then it is cut out of sample fabrics
and the resulting garment is fit tested. Once the pattern meets the designer's approval, a small
production run of selling samples are made and the style is presented to buyers in wholesale markets.
Once the
style has demonstrated sales potential, the pattern is graded for sizes, usually by computer with an
apparel industry specific CAD program. Following grading, the pattern must be vetted; the accuracy of
each size and the direct comparison in laying seam lines is done. Once these steps have been followed
and any errors corrected, the pattern is approved for production. When the manufacturing company is
ready to manufacture the style, all of the sizes of each given pattern piece are arranged into a marker,
usually by computer. The marker is then laid on top of the layers of fabric and cut. Once the style has
been sold and delivered to stores – and if it proves to be quite popular – the pattern of this style will
itself become a block, with subsequent generations of patterns developed from it.

50
5.2. Pattern making flow chart:
Tec Pack receiver
Sketching pattern
Printing /plotter
Pattern cutting
5.3. Consumption:
There are two type of fabric consumption:-
 Marker planning system (actual)
 Mathematical system / estimation
Basic principle of marker planning:-
Pattern set (small, medium, large & XL)
Place it on marker paper
Measure marker paper to length wise
Find a consumption/dz from the calculation.
Basic principle of mathematical system:-
 Rough estimation
 Consumption calculation by following a sample or size sheet

51
 Measuring the area of each part for each piece of garment
 Find consumption /dz from the calculation
Example:-
For a long sleeve shirt:-
Spec. sheet:-
Collar = 16"
Chest = 48"
Center back length = 31"
Sleeve length = 34.5"
Drop shoulder = 21"(yoke)
Arm hole depth (1/2) = 10.5"
Cuff = 9"
Pocket = 6" × 5.5"
Yoke is all time = 4"
[Area means- L× W]
Back part
Formula:-
(Center back length + allowance) × (½ chest + allowance) / 36
= {L} x {W}
44
= (31" + 2") × (24" + 2" ) /36
44
= 0.541yds
Yoke:
Formula:-
(Yoke length + allowance) × (yoke width + allowance) / 36

52
44
= (21" + 4") × (4"+ 1") / 36
44
= 0.079 ydz
Front part:
Formula:-
= Body length + allowance) × (¼ chest + allowance) × 2 /36
44
= [{31"- 1 ¼" + 1"} ×{ 12" + 2 ½" }] 2" /36
44
=0.562 yds
Sleeve:
Formula:-
=(Sleeve length + allowance) × (arm hole depth full + allowance) ×2 / 36
44
={sleeve length – (½ drop shoulder + ½") × (arm hole depth + allowance)} ×2 /36
44
= [{34 ½" - 11"} +1"] × {21" +1"} × 2 /36
44
= 0.68yds
Cuff:
Formula:-
= (Cuff length + allowance) × (cuff width + allowance) ×2 / 36
44

53
= (9" + 3") × (2 ½" + ½" ) ×2 /36
44
= 0.05yds
Collar:
Formula:-
= (Collar length + allowance)× (collar width + allowance) × 2 /36
44
= collar length + allowance) × (collar width + allowance) ×4 / 36
44
= 16" + 5") × (2" +1") × 4/36
44
= 0.159yds
Pocket:
Formula:-
=Pocket length + allowance) × (pocket width +allowance) / 36
44
= (6" +2") (5½" +1") /36
44
= 0.032yds
Total consumption for one garment
= 0.541+0.079+0.562+0.68+0.05+0.159+0.032
= 2.100 yds/ per garment
Per dz = 2.100 ×12
= 25.20/dz (ypd) + 5%
= {25.20 ×5 / 100} + 25.20

54
= 1.26 + 25.20
=.46
Consumption calculation for trouser:-
Measurements:-
Out seam = 42"
In seam = 32"
Waist = 36"
Hip = 40"
Bottom = 20"
Find out fabric consumption /dz if fabric width = 58"
Formula:
Out seam × thigh × 4 / 36"
57"
= (42" + 2" + 2") × (Hip/4 + 1.5" + 1.5" ) × 4 / 36"
57"
= 46" × (40"/4 + 3") × 4 / 36"
57"
= 46" × 13" × 4 / 36"
57"
= 1.165 yd / per trouser
1.165 yd / per trouser + zipper fly (2) + pocket facing (4) + back pocket bone + belt loop
= 1.165 × 5% (for regular trouser)
{= 0.058}
1.165 + 0.058 = 1.21
1.21 + 5%
=1.21 +0.060 = 1.270 × 12 (per dz) =15.24 ypd
Knit Fabric

55
For, T-shirt {(s/j) 30/1 combed yarn}
Measurement:-
Length = 70 cm
½ chest = 60 cm / dia
Sleeve length = 25 cm
Arm hole width = 40 cm
GSM = 145
Find out consumption / dz in kg
Formula:
(Back length + sleeve length) × ½ chest × 2 × GSM ×12
10000000
= {(70 +5) + (25 +5)} × 60 × 2 ×145 ×12 {B.L + S.L × chest × GSM×12}
10000000 100 100 1000
= 2.28 kg + 7%
= 2.28 kg +0.159
= 2.439 kg [neck and sleeve are made rib so add 0.10]
All time collar in rib = (350-400)
5.4. Hard ware and software used in pattern making:
1. CAD soft ware (Gerber garment technology)[GGT]
2. Marker making software [3pcs]
3. Gerbar plotter [5pcs]
4. Gerber digitizer [1pcs]

56
5. Pattern design software (PSD)opti tex [5cs]
Additional information:
 The sample department produces 550 to 600pieces of samples every including SMS & the
capacity is increasing day by day.
 About 8000pcs of samples dispatches every month with a negligible rate of rejection of blow
2%
 Sometimes buyer’s requirements cannot be interpreted from the tac pack then own creativity
should be implemented.
 It is very important to prioritize the buyer’s comments.
 Sometimes available machines cannot do the required job
5.5. Personal opinion
 Sample department is the central body of the garments .without the proper operations
of this department no garment can be made
 This is the most specialized area of the garment.
 All the employees and workers are highly skilled here.
 Women are lagging behind in this segment due to adequate job experience.
The department can be more dynamic with the help of modern cad software and machineries

57
COMPUTER-AIDED DESIGN COMPUTER-AIDED
DESIGN
6.1. CAD
Computer-aided design (CAD), also known as computer-aided design and drafting (CADD), is the use of
computer technology for the process of design and design-documentation. Computer Aided Drafting
describes the process of drafting with a computer. CADD software, or environments, provides the user
with input-tools for the purpose of streamlining design processes; drafting, documentation, and
manufacturing processes. CADD output is often in the form of electronic files for print or machining
operations. The development of CADD-based software is in direct correlation with the processes it seeks
to economize; industry-based software (construction, manufacturing, etc.) typically uses vector-based
(linear) environments whereas graphic-based software utilizes raster-based (pixielated) environments.
Stand outs in the CAD /CAM technology sector and used by small, medium and large companies
throughout the world, Cad related with merchandising and cutting departmental booking and
production. Merchandiser used cad for costing and consumption.
6.2 Software used in CAD:
PDS
GERBER.
Optitex also
6.3 Responsibility of CAD manager:
1. Merchandiser gives him spread sheet.
2. Then he checked
3. Help the subordinate

58
6.4 Types of marker:
1. Side to side marker.
2. Head to Head marker
3. Group marker
4. All garment one way

59
5. One garment one way
6.5 Total capacity in CAD room:
Garber -4[8.1]
Plotter-2[8.0]
Digitiger-1[8.3, 7.5]
Optitex-3
Plotter-2[for optitex
Pattern:
6.6 Work flow of pattern:
Merchandiser
Pattern
Sample
Buyer
Spec will be bold .then make sample from buyer comment comes. Rectify it then again to buyer .size set
samples made by pattern department then to CAD.

60
Flow chart
Basic t shirt:
Rectangular
Front neck
Back neck
Curve
Shoulder slop
Arm hole
Waist
Add seam

61
Sleeve:
Rectangular
Muscle
Sleeve open
6.8 Things to be concern for T-shirt:
Ladies sloop: 3.5-4 cm.
Seam allowance down: specified by buyer
Seam allowance others -1cm
Sleeve down-: 13.5 -14cm
Sleeve open: 2cm
Side seam: 1cm
6.9 Pattern making stage:
Proto/development sample [comment]
Sells men sample [rectify]
Size set sample [comment]
Fit sample/seals sample [rectify]

62
[All the stage has to pass during pattern making .During iron need finish pattern. They draw it on the
table s’oliver &Esprit needs this requirement+
6.10 Responsibility of pattern room:
1. Total process depends on pattern until shipment
2. Any fault in garment shape pattern is needed.
PUMA: they give the measurement with code number according to their instruction.
DYEING DEPARTMENT
7.1. Dyeing
Dyeing is the process in order to dye textile production like fibers, yarns, fabrics. Dyeing is normally done
in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have
uncut Chemical bond with fiber molecules. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in
dyeing. There are mainly two classes of dye, natural and man-made.
Dyeing is a method which imparts beauty to the textile by applying various colors and their shades on to
a fabric. Dyeing can be done at any stage of the manufacturing of textile- fiber, yarn, fabric or a finished
textile product including garments and apparels. The property of color fastness depends upon two
factors- selection of proper dye according to the textile material to be dyed and selection of the method
for dyeing the fiber, yarn or fabric.
7.2.Dyes:
Dyes are used for coloring the fabrics. Dyes are molecules which absorb and reflect light at specific
wavelengths to give human eyes the sense of color. There are two major types of dyes - natural and
synthetic dyes. The natural dyes are extracted from natural substances such as plants, animals, or
minerals. Synthetic dyes are made in a laboratory. Chemicals are synthesized for making synthetic dyes.
Some of the synthetic dyes contain metals too.
7.3. Natural Dyes
Direct Printing It is the most common approach to apply a color pattern onto a fabric. If done on colored
fabric, it is known as overprinting. The desired pattern is produced by pressing dye on the fabric in a
paste form. To prepare the print paste, a thickening agent is added to a limited amount of water and

63
dye is dissolved in it. Earlier starch was preferred as a thickening agent for printing. Nowadays gums or
alginates derived from seaweed are preferred as they allow better penetration of color and are easier to
wash out. Most pigment printing is done without thickeners because the mixing up of resins, solvents
and water produces thickening anyway.
7.4. Synthetic Dyes:
Synthetic dyes are classified based upon their chemical composition and the method of their application
in the dyeing process.
Basic (Cationic) Dyes:
Basic (Cationic) Dyes Basic dyes are water-soluble and are mainly used to dye acrylic fibers. They are
mostly used with a mordant. A mordant is a chemical agent which is used to set dyes on fabrics by
forming an insoluble compound with the dye. With mordant, basic dyes are used for cotton, linen,
acetate, nylon, polyesters, acrylics and modacrylics. Other than acrylic, basic dyes are not very suitable
for any other fiber as they are not fast to light, washing or perspiration. Thus, they are generally used for
giving an after treatment to the fabrics that have already been dyed with acid dyes.
Direct (substantive) Dyes
Direct (substantive) Dyes Direct dyes color cellulose fibers directly without the use of mordants. They
are used for dyeing wool, silk, nylon, cotton, rayon etc. These dyes are not very bright and have poor
fastness to washing although they are fairly fast to light.
Mordant Dyes:
Mordant Dyes The mordant or chrome dyes are acidic in character. Sodium or potassium bichromate is
used with them in the dyebath or after the process of dyeing is completed. This is done for getting the
binding action of the chrome. They are mostly used for wool which gets a good color fastness after
treatment with mordant dyes. They are also used for cotton, linen, silk, rayon and nylon but are less
effective for them.
Vat Dyes:
Vat Dyes Vat dyes are insoluble in water and cannot dye fibers directly. However, They can be made
soluble by reduction in alkaline solution which allows them to affix to the textile fibers. Subsequent
oxidation or exposure to air restore the dye to its insoluble form. Indigo is the original vat dye. These
dyes are the fastest dyes for cotton, linen and rayon. They are used with mordants to dye other fabrics
such as wool, nylon, polyesters, acrylics and modacrylics.
Reactive Dyes:
Reactive Dyes Reactive dyes react with fiber molecules to form a chemical compound. These dyes, they
are either applied from alkaline solution or from neutral solutions which are then alkalized in a separate
process. Sometimes heat treatment is also used for developing different shades. After dyeing, the fabric
is washed well with soap so as to remove any unfixed dye. Reactive dyes were originally used for

64
cellulose fibers only but now their various types are used for wool, silk, nylon, acrylics and their blends
as well.
Disperse Dyes:
Disperse Dyes Disperse dyes are water insoluble. These dyes are finely ground and are available as a
paste or a powder that gets dispersed in water. These particles dissolve in the fibers and impart color to
them. These dyes were originally developed for the dyeing of cellulose acetate but now they are used to
dye nylon, cellulose triacetate, and acrylic fibers too.
Sulfur Dyes:
Sulfur Dyes Sulfur Dyes are insoluble and made soluble by the help of caustic soda and sodium sulfide.
Dyeing is done at high temperature with large quantities of salt so that the color penetrates into the
fiber. After dyeing the fabric is oxidized for getting desired shades by exposure to air or by using
chemicals. Excess dyes and chemicals are removed by thorough washing. These dyes are fast to light,
washing and perspiration and are mostly used for cotton and linen.
Pigment Dyes:
Pigment Dyes Although pigments are not dyes in a true sense, they are extensively used for coloring
fabrics like cotton, wool and other manmade fibers due to their excellent light fastness. They do not
have any affinity to the fibers and are affixed to the fabric with the help of resins. After dyeing, the
fabrics are subjected to high temperatures.
7.5 Dyeing Methods:
Color is applied to fabric by different methods and at different stages of the textile manufacturing
process.
Stock dyeing:
Stock dyeing the fiber is dyed even before it is spun.
Top dyeing:
Top is the combed wool. In this method, the fiber is dyed in the stage just before the appearance of
finished yarn.
Piece dyeing:
Piece dyeing In this method, small batches of constructed natural colored fabric are dyed according to
the demands for a given color.
Solution pigments or dope dyeing:
Dye is added to the solution before it is extruded through the spinnerets for making synthetic filaments
Garment dyeing:

65
Garment dyeing Dye is applied to finished products such as apparels and garments.
Stock dyeing:
Stock dyeing is used to dye fibers. In this process, the staple fibers are packed into a vessel and then dye
liquid is forced through them. Although the dye solution is pumped in large quantities, the dye may not
penetrate completely into the fibers and some areas may be left without dyeing. However, the following
blending and spinning processes mix up the fibers in such a thorough way that it results in an overall
even color. Woolens are usually stock dyed.
Top dyeing:
Top is the combed wool sliver. It is wound on perforated spools and the dye solution is circulated
through it. This method results in very even dyeing.
7.5. Yarn dyeing
Stock dyeing is used to dye fibers. In this process, the staple fibers are packed into a vessel and then dye
liquid is forced through them. Although the dye solution is pumped in large quantities, the dye may not
penetrate completely into the fibers and some areas may be left without dyeing. However, the following
blending and spinning processes mix up the fibers in such a thorough way that it results in an overall
even color. Woolens are usually stock dyed.
When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, it is called yarn dyeing. In this method, the
dyestuff penetrates the fibers to the core of the yarn. There are many forms of yarn dyeing- Skein
(Hank) Dyeing, Package Dyeing, Warp-beam Dyeing, and Space Dyeing.
7.6. Skein (Hank) Dyeing:
The yarns are loosely arranged in skeins or coils. These are then hung over a rung and immersed in a dye
bath in a large container. In this method, the colour penetration is the best and the yarns retain a softer,
loftier feel. It is mostly used for bulky acrylic and wool yarns.
Package Dyeing:
The yarns are wound on spools, cones or similar units and these packages of yarn are stacked on
perforated rods in a rack and then immersed in a tank. In the tank, the dye is forced outward from the
rods under pressure through the spools and then back to the packages towards the center to penetrate
the entire yarn as thoroughly as possible. Mostly, the carded and combed cotton which are used for
knitted outerwear is dyed through this method.
7.7. Warp-beam Dyeing:
It is similar to package dyeing but more economical. Here, the yarn is wound on to a perforated warp
beam and then immersed in a tank for dyeing it applying pressure.

66
Space Dyeing:
In this method, the yarn is dyed at intervals along its length. For these two procedures- knit- deknit
method and OPI Space-Dye Applicator- are adopted. In the first method, the yarn is knitted on either a
circular or flat-bed knitting machine and the knitted cloth is then dyed and subsequently it is knitted.
Since the dye does not readily penetrate the areas of the yarn where it crosses itself, alternated dyed
and undyed spaces appear. The OPI Space-Dye Applicator technique produces multi coloured space-
dyed yarns. The yarns are dyed intermittently as they run at very high speeds through spaced dyebaths.
They are continuously subjected to shock waves produced by compressed air having supersonic
velocities.
Piece Dyeing
The constructed fabrics are piece dyed for the flexibility they provide. The textile manufacturer can dye
the whole fabric in batches according to the fashion demands of the time thus avoiding wastage and
resultantly loss. There are several methods prevalent or piece dyeing.
Beck dyeing:
It is used for dyeing long yards of fabric. The fabric is passed in rope form through the dyebath. This rope
of the fabric moves over a rail onto a reel which immerses it into the dye and then draws the fabric up
and forward and brings it to the front of the machine. This process is repeated many times until the
desired color intensity is obtained.
Jig dyeing:
It is similar to the process of beck dyeing with a slight variation. The fabric in jig dyeing is held on rollers
at full width rather than in rope form as it is passed through the dyebath.
Pad dyeing:
Padding is also done while holding the fabric at full width. The fabric is passed through a trough having
dye in it. Then it is passed between two heavy rollers which force the dye into the cloth and squeeze out
the excess dye. Then it is passed through a heat chamber for letting the dye to set. After that it is passed
through washer, rinser and dryer for completing the process.
Jet dyeing
Fabric is placed in a heated tube where jets of dye solution are forced through it at high pressures. The
fabric too moves along the tube. The solution moves faster than the cloth while coloring it thoroughly.
Solution pigmenting or dope dyeing

67
This is a method applied for dyeing the synthetic fibers. Dye is added to the solution before it is
extruded through the spinnerets for making synthetic filaments. This gives a colorfast fiber as the
pigments are used which are the fastest known colors.
Garment dyeing:
When the finished textile products such as hosiery or sweaters are dyed, it is called garment dyeing. A
number of garments are packed loosely in a nylon net and put into a dyestuff filled tub with a motor
driven paddle. The dye is thrown upon the garments by the moving paddles' effect.
7.6 Dyeing procedure flow chart:
Pre treatment process
Fabric loading
Fill the water
Wetting agent, detergent, per oxide stabilizer (40c, 5min)[NOF ]
Caustic soda (60c, 5min)
H2O2 (105c, 30min)
Cooling

68
Wash
Neutralization
Peroxide killer
Neutralization
Biopolishing
Dyeing process:
CS hot wash [45c-55c, 40min]{cs -sequestering agent }
Leveling +Anticrease[Cibafluid,kappvon]
Color dosing [salt, soda][60min- 40min ]
Shade check

69
Bath drain
After treatment:
Wash [normal]
Wash {hot wash]
Acid
Softener
Wash
Neutral
Softener fixing agent
7.8.Material Names Related To Dyeing:
Item Brands Country
Wetting agent Felson NOF Germany

70
Leveling agent Sorabid LDR,PDC China
Anticreasing Kapavon-cl
cibafluid
Germany
Per-oxide stabilizer Kapazon H-33,CBB
Rucoritwez
Germany
Caustic caustic China
Soda ash Soda ash china
H2O2 H2O2 korea
Brightening agent Uvitex BAM
Uvitex BBBHV
Uvitex BBT
Switzerland
H2O2 killer Kapatex ,pks Germany
Acitic acid Acitic acid India
Sequestering agent CS, securer 540 China
Enzyme Bio-Ace, Biopolish China
Electrdyte / salt Sodium ,Sulphate , Anhydrous India
Detergent Rukozer-wbl, Diwet plus Germany, India

71
Soappning agent Rukozen,Dekolsn Germany ,china
Softener Nerosoft JS[anlonic] China
Fixing agent Sandofix Ec
,protan FCE
Germany
Fleece fabric dyeing:
Color navy
Terry fleece weight (600kg), water (3600lit)
Scouring [wetting agent –NOF, H-53direct,temp-60c
Caustic (soda dosing, temp-60c,10min)
H202 [per oxide dosing emp70o
c,min5]
Steam (temp-105c, 30min)

72
Cooling [temp 78o
c] Drain
Reload water
Rinsing water [5min]
Peroxide killer hot
Acid [tepm -60min, 10min]
CS hot temp [90min,10min]

73
Cooling [tepm-78c,drain]
Rinsing
Drain
Leveling
Ph check
Leveling run
Salt dosing
Color dosing [tepm-60o
c, 30min]
Soda dosing [temp-60o
c,45min]

74
Sample cut
[Note: low GSM- crease mark high, lycra fabric crease mark high]
Finishing floor
Dying fault
 Uneven
 Softener sport
 Crease mark
 Soda sport
 Hole
 Uneven scouring
 Soda dosing
 Dyeing temperature not
control
 Operator negligence
 Softener sport
 Color sport
 Soda sport
 Poly contamination
 Fly color
 Line mark
 Fabric hole
 Fly yarn
 Grey line
 White slub
 Yarn contamination
 Iron stain
 Big hole pin hole
 Dirt satin
 Compactor crease

75
Open line Tube line
Slittering [cut & open Dewatering m/c
Dewatering [squeeze m/c] squeezing
Stenter [diameter, finishing, shrinkage gsm control] Dryer
Open compacting [closer the fabric loop] Tube compacting
Final inspection Final inspection
Packing Packing

76
Delivery Delivery
Finishing M/C description:
Santex m/c parameter esprit buyer :
1. Passing without pin frame and normal width
2. Temp:
1st
cham130c
2nd
cham130c
3rd
cham140c
4th
Cham 150c
5th
Cham 150c
3. M/c speed: 15min
4. over feed: 50%
M/c name M/C Brand Number of M/C
Stenter m/c Bruckner ,sun-super 2
Open competing Heliot, Feraro 2
Dryer Hiliot, suntex 2
Tube compacting Hiliot 2
Rising m/c Lafet 2
Suedingm/c 1
Dewatering &sleeting 2

77
5. Vibration: 800
6.shrinkage& spirality check after santex
Dyeing Quality Section:
4 point system
Size of defect penalty
>3 1
3>9 2
6>9 3
9< 4
7.9.Process flow chart of final inspection:
After completing finishing process here firstly check the shade as per buyer standard with dimension
stability from lab
2nd
check dia/width fabric weight or gsm
3rd
check fabric surface or appearance as per buyer standard
The every roll with every meter check as per 4 point system
Make a report
If ok ready to delivery

78
If not identify the fault
If it is knitting fault then inform the knitting department by job card and mail requested the
fabric for fault
If it is dyeing fault &if we make sure that it is reprocess able then report dying department, if not then
inform the dyeing to replace the reject quality
Organogram of QAD:
Executive director
Manager/assistant manager
Senior principle officer/ Production officer

Finished fabric finished collar
/cuff

79
Sr.supervisor/supervisor/jr.
supervisor
QC
Senior supervisor / sr.supervior/ supervisor/
Supervisor jr supervisor Jr.supervisor AQC
QC QC
AQC AQC
Online system offline system

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MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
8.1. Merchandising:
Merchandising refers to the techniques used to sell products to consumers. A merchandiser is someone
who purchases a product from a manufacturer, and then sells it to shoppers. There are numerous
techniques that a merchandiser may use to convince shoppers to buy the products he or she is selling. It
is usually more than just setting products on a shelf and hoping that they are purchased.
The simplest way to define merchandising is to say that it is the way a product is sold. From the
time a product is created, there will be people developing part of that product's merchandising
plan. The type of packaging, colors, and slogans are all part of this process. Later on, it will be
which stores will carry it, where the product is placed in the store aisles, and how the retail store
will promote the product that become important factors in the process. Products need to be
visible if the store expects people to buy them. A product will be merchandised to a target
audience, or the people most likely to purchase the goods and services being offered.
Merchandising assures that the right product is available in the right place to the right people,
and at the right time. It wouldn't make sense to have a huge stock of turkeys, stuffing, cranberry
sauce, and pumpkin pies in July, but it makes a lot of sense in November, when customers are
looking to buy those things.
Products targeted for kids are a great example of merchandising that is available year round.
Child-oriented products, such as cereals, crackers and cookies, or other products, are lined up on
shelves low enough for a child to see and reach them. The packages are brightly colored, and
often have cartoon characters on them. Toy stores typically do not have many items on hard to
reach shelves, because they want children to be able to see all of the toys that they offer.
Merchandising is more complicated than just figuring out where to put products on store shelves.
It involves a lot of careful planning. Order too much of an item, and it might spoil or go out of
style before it is sold out, wasting money. Order too little of an item, and people will buy it
elsewhere once you have sold out, costing you sales. A merchandiser has to be knowledgeable
about statistics, good at math, and have a keen eye for details to be successful in the field.
8.2. Apparel merchandiser:
An apparel merchandiser, also known as a fashion merchandiser, is the person who conceives
and implements merchandising displays in retail environments focused on the sales of clothing
and accessories. She may dress mannequins, create fashion-focused scenes in store windows and
design promotional graphics for in-store promotions.
This position normally involves much more than merchandising. An apparel merchandiser is
often the pulse of the retail environment, the person depended upon to predict fashion trends and

81
incorporate her vision into the store’s inventory. A large part of her job is to keep her educated
on the latest fashion fads and styles around the world and make sure her store is the first to carry
cutting-edge clothing and accessories. When new inventory is being chosen, the apparel
merchandiser is commonly consulted. She provides input on ordering fabrics, colors, sizes and
styles based on her analysis of what is in vogue, coupled with style trends in local demographics.
Every time the season changes, she is relied upon to have the latest information on what is
fashionable and what will bring in the highest revenues.
As her reputation for successful fashion predictions grows, she is normally given increased
responsibilities. These often include providing input on the overall appearance of the store, ways
to market and sell slow-moving inventory and adding or removing certain retail lines or
designers. She may also be asked to assist in tracking profits and losses or confer with
management on personnel matters. Aside from working in a retail store, apparel merchandisers
regularly find lucrative careers in fashion consulting firms, import and export companies or
working for a beauty or fashion magazine. They may also find employment in related industries,
such as textile and fabric purchasing or apparel design and production. Many professional
window dressers and personal fashion consultants have backgrounds in apparel merchandising.
A keen eye for spotting the next fashion craze is imperative to be successful in this position, but
expertise in more practical areas is also required. Good math skills, organizational abilities and
analytical acumen are highly-valued traits. The ability to effectively communicate with
executives, designers and retail personnel is essential for the job.
Departments of merchandising
 SD- sells & distribution
 MM- material management
 PP- Production processing
Sales & distribution
A merchandiser should be concerned about such things
 Knitting capacity
 Knitting strength
 Knitting weakness
 Dyeing capacity
 Dyeing strength
 Dyeing weakness
 Sewing capacity
 Sewing strength
 Sewing weakness

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 Lead time
Generally productions are
 Make to stock
 Make to order
Make to Stock:
In MTS (Make to Stock), products are manufactured based on demand forecasts. Since accuracy of the
forecasts will prevent excess inventory and opportunity loss due to stock out, the issue here is how to
forecast demands accurately. MTS (Make to Stock) literally means to manufacture products for stock
based on demand forecasts, which can be regarded as push-type production. MTS has been required to
prevent opportunity loss due to stock out and minimize excess inventory using accurate forecasts. In the
industrialized society of mass production and mass marketing, this forecast mass production urged
standardization and efficient business management such as cost reduction.
Make To Order:
A business production strategy that typically allows consumers to purchase products that are
customized to their specifications. The make to order (MTO) strategy only manufactures the end
product once the customer places the order. This creates additional wait time for the consumer to
receive the product, but allows for more flexible customization compared to purchasing from retailers'
shelves. The make to order (MTO) strategy relieves the problems of excessive inventory that is common
with the traditional make to stock (MTS) strategy
8.3. Production flow of Sales & distribution:
Order
SMS Sample
Open
Costing

83
Only price
Production book receive
Lab dip approval
Forecast
Greige book + production
Final order
Booking yarn
Fabric
Trims / accessories
Space booking
Sealer sample approval
AW approval
Bulk fabric approval with Test report
Special wash / overdye

84
Cutting
Sewing thread/
Trims in house
Size set
Embellishment
(Print/ Emb/Appliqué)
Sewing
Wash
Finishing
Final Inspection
Ex- factory
Shipment

85
Air Sea
Major Products VS Customer Base (Knit):
Product Type Ratio Name of Buyer Supply (%)
Men’s wear= 50%
Lady’s wear= 30%
School & Kids wear = 20%
G-Star 35%
Puma 25%
Marks & Spencer 15%
S.Oliver 10%
Esprit 4.5%
Gerry Webber 5%
Others 5.5%
Major Products VS Customer Base (Woven):
Product Type Ratio Name of Buyer Supply (%)
Men’s wear = 50%
School & Kids wear = 30%
Lady’s wear = 20%
Marks & Spencer 40%
PVH 35%
WWSA 10%
Esprit 5%
Tesco 5%
Others 5%
Main area of concerns for Sales & distribution team of Ananta Garments
Buying Mood
NOOS- never out of stock
Regular
Design No- 40. 105. 32. 0668

86
Dept Season Style Style No
Season
2011 January -> 101
February -> 102
March -> 103
October -> 110
December -> 112
Style
31 -> long sleeve
32 -> short sleeve
34 -> tank top
39 -> 1/3 sleeve
Procedure
Total lead time 65 – 85 days
Sample develops in two steps (DPD portion)
Tech pack
Sample (costing needs size chart + consumption)
Consumption on the basis of 12 pcs
Buying sample comments (sent from UK)

87
Lead time starts
Contract seal sample (sent to UK)
Contract seal comments comes from Dhaka office
Final comments come from UK
Confirmation for bulk production
(SD portion)
Negotiation about shipment
Style No. stroke No. price all in excel sheet, break down of total qty confirmation
Fabric booking (MM portion)
Arrange PP meeting (by IE)
Proceed to bulk

88
Proceed for size set
Bulk cutting
Printing/ Embroidery
Sewing
Rack sample (shipment)
Contract sample
Shipment
8.4 Merchandising Seasons:
The calendar has two six months seasons: spring, which runs from February through July and fall, which
runs from August through January.
The overall operation of clothing company has a fixed cycle which is dedicated by unchanging sequence
& durations that is called season. For clothing manufacturers, this means that certain deadlines have to
be met if merchandise is to reach retailers at the right time to meet the seasonal demand of the general
people.
For many years, most of the clothing industry worked on three-phase year which covered four seasons
as follows:

89
 Phase-1: Spring merchandise.
 Phase 2: summer merchandise.
 Phase 3: Combined autumn & winter merchandise.
But in the recent years selling pattern is to have three seasons during the year, with each season divided
into two seasons so as to introduce new merchandise to the public during the seasons. The patterns are:
 Spring 1: spring merchandise.
 Spring 2: late spring & early summer merchandise.
 Summer 1: summer merchandise.
 Summer 2: late summer & early autumn merchandise.
 Winter 1: Autumn & early winter merchandise.
 Winter 2: winter merchandise
PRODUCTION PLANNING DEPARTMENT
1.1. Production Planning:
Production planning incorporates a multiplicity of production elements, ranging from the everyday
activities of staff to the ability to realise accurate delivery times for the customer. With an effective
production planning operation at its nucleus, any form of manufacturing process has the capability to
exploit its full potential.
A production plan is that portion of your intermediate-range business plan that your
manufacturing / operations department is responsible for developing. The plan states in general
terms the total amount of output that the manufacturing department is responsible to produce for
each period in the planning horizon.
The output is usually expressed in terms of pesos or other units of measurement (e.g. dozons,
tons, liters, kgs.) or units of the aggregate product (this refers to the weighted average of all the
products in your company). The production plan is the authorization of your manufacturing
department to produce the items at a rate consistent with your company's overall corporate plan.
This production plan needs to be translated into a master production schedule so as to schedule
the items for completion promptly, according to promised delivery dates; to avoid the
overloading or under loading of the production facility; and so that production capacity is
efficiently utilized and low production costs result.
Key factors of a production plan:
Effective planning hinges on a sound understanding of key activities that entrepreneurs and
business managers should apply to the planning process. Here are some examples:

90
Forecast market expectations: To plan effectively you will need to estimate potential sales
with some reliability. Most businesses don't have firm sales or service figures. However, they
can forecast sales based on historical information, market trends and/or established orders.
Inventory control: Reliable inventory levels feeding the pipeline have to be established and a
sound inventory system should be in place.
Availability of equipment and human resources: open time, this is the period of time allowed
between processes so that all orders flow within your production line or service. Production
planning helps you manage open time, ensuring it is well-utilized, while being careful not to
create delays. Planning should maximize your operational capacity but not exceed it. It's also
wise not to plan for full capacity and leave room for the unexpected priorities and changes that
may arise.
Standardized steps and time: Typically, the most efficient means to determine your production
steps is to map processes in the order that they happen and then incorporate the average time it
took to complete the work. Remember that all steps don't happen in sequence and that many may
occur at the same time.
Risk factors: Evaluate these by collecting historical information on similar work experiences,
detailing the actual time, materials and failures encountered. Where risks are significant, you
should conduct a failure mode effect analysis method (FMEA) and ensure that controls are put in
place to eliminate or minimize them.
A carefully developed production plan will allow your company to meet the following objectives:
 Minimize costs / maximize profits
 Maximize customer service
 Minimize inventory investment
 Minimize changes in production rates
 Minimize changes in work-force levels
 Maximize the utilization of plant and equipment
1.2. Types of production plan:-
Mainly there are six types of production plan.
1. Daily production plan.
2. Weekly production plan.
3. Monthly production.
4. Yearly production plan
5. Projection plan.

91
6. Detail production plan.
Daily production plan
The production plans which are being made on hourly production base are called daily production plan.
Line No 10.00 11.00 12.00 13.00 15.00 16.00 17.00
1
Target
120
Achv
78
Achv
80
Achv
85
Achv
90
Achv
85
Achv
100
Achv
105
2
Target 80
Achv
59
Achv
65
Achv
60
Achv
65
Achv
60
Achv
70
Achv
70
3
Target
100
Achv
75
Achv
79
Achv
85
Achv
85
Achv
80
Achv
85
Achv
90
Weekly production plan
The production plans which are being made on weekly production base are called weekly production
plan.
Date 01/06/10 02/06/10 03/06/10 04/06/10 05/06/10 06/06/10 07/06/10
Plan 1500 1500 1500 1500 1500 1500 off
Acv 1300 1400 1500 1500 1600 1700 off
Monthly production
The production plan which is made on the basis of one month is called Monthly production plan.
Example of monthly production plan for four buyers at a time:
Buyer: Levi's Buyer: H&M
Date Day Line-1 Line-1
Plan Achv Total % Plan Achv Total %
8/1/2010 Sun 1400 1220 1220 3.38888 1500 1320 1320 3.47368
8/2/2010 Mon 1400 1270 2490 6.91666 1500 1390 2710 7.13157
8/3/2010 Tue 1400 1330 3820 10.6111 1500 1470 4180 11

92
8/4/2010 Wed 1400 1400 5220 14.5 1500 1520 5700 15
8/5/2010 Thu 1400 1300 6520 18.1111 1500 1320 7020 18.4736
8/6/2010 Fri 0 0 6520 18.1111 7020 18.4736
8/7/2010 Sat 1400 1400 7920 22 1500 1500 8520 22.4210
8/8/2010 Sun 1400 1450 9370 26.0277 1500 1520 10040 26.4210
8/9/2010 Mon 1400 1450 10820 30.0555 1500 1520 11560 30.4210
8/10/2010 Tue 1400 1460 12280 34.1111 1500 1540 13100 34.4736
8/11/2010 Wed 1400 1460 13740 38.1666 1500 1550 14650 38.5526
8/12/2010 Thu 1400 1100 14840 41.2222 1500 1200 15850 41.7105
8/13/2010 Fri 0 0 14840 41.2222 15850 41.7105
8/14/2010 Sat 1400 1430 16270 45.1944 1500 1520 17370 45.7105
8/15/2010 Sun 1400 1450 17720 49.2222 1500 1540 18910 49.7631
8/16/2010 Mon 1400 1450 19170 53.25 1500 1540 20450 53.81579
8/17/2010 Tue 1400 1460 20630 57.3055 1500 1550 22000 57.8947
8/18/2010 Wed 1400 1460 22090 61.3611 1500 1550 23550 61.9736
8/19/2010 Thu 1400 1200 23290 64.6944 1500 1350 24900 65.5263
8/20/2010 Fri 0 0 23290 64.6944 24900 65.5263
8/21/2010 Sat 1400 1440 24730 68.6944 1500 1530 26430 69.5526
8/22/2010 Sun 1400 1460 26190 72.75 1500 1540 27970 73.6052
8/23/2010 Mon 1400 1460 27650 76.8055 1500 1550 29520 77.6841
8/24/2010 Tue 1400 1460 29110 80.8611 1500 1550 31070 81.7631
8/25/2010 Wed 1400 1460 30570 84.9166 1500 1550 32620 85.8421
8/26/2010 Thu 1400 1230 31800 88.3333 1500 1400 34020 89.5263
8/27/2010 Fri 31800 88.3333 34020 89.5263
8/28/2010 Sat 1400 1450 33250 92.3611 1500 1530 35550 93.5526
8/29/2010 Sun 1400 1450 34700 96.3888 1500 1550 37100 97.6315

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8/30/2010 Mon 1400 1300 36000 100 1500 900 38000 100
Yearly Production plan
Factory production plan depends on Buyer forecast and Capacity Roll up of a factory. Capacity roll up
means how much quantity of garments can be made by for its buyer.
Month Buyer
Levi's H&M GAP D&G Total
January Pec Qu. Pec 30000 25000 20000 25000 100000
Item T-shirt Baby pant T-shirt Baby pant
February Pec Qu. Pec 40000 18000 22000 20000 100000
Item Baby pant T-shirt Baby pant T-shirt
March Pec Qu. Pec 15000 25000 16000 24000 80000
Item Polo shirt Polo shirt Polo shirt Polo shirt
April Pec Qu. Pec 16000 24000 15000 25000 80000
May Pec Qu. Pec 20000 15000 25000 20000 80000
June Pec Qu. Pec 36000 38000 34000 32000 140000
Item Denim Skirt Denim Skirt
July Pec Qu. Pec 36000 32000 34000 38000 140000
Item Skirt Denim Skirt Denim
August Pec Qu. Pec 40000 40000 35000 45000 160000
September Pec Qu. Pec 25000 20000 30000 25000 100000
October Pec Qu. Pec 15000 45000 40000 20000 120000

94
November Pec Qu. Pec 35000 25000 20000 22000 102000
December Pec Qu. Pec 20000 15000 30000 35000 100000
Total Pec Qu. Pec 328000 322000 321000 331000 1302000
Projection plan
Month Buyer
Levi's H&M GAP D&G Total
2009 Pec Qu. 315000 262500 210000 262500 1050000
Item T-shirt Baby pant T-shirt Baby pant
2010 Pec Qu. 420000 189000 231000 210000 1050000
2011 Pec Qu. 157500 262500 168000 252000 840000
2012 Pec Qu. 168000 252000 157500 262500 840000
2013 Pec Qu. 210000 157500 262500 210000 840000
2014 Pec Qu. 378000 399000 357000 336000 1470000
2015 Pec Qu. 378000 336000 357000 399000 1470000
Item Skirt Denim Skirt Denim
Total Pec Qu. 3444000 3381000 3370500 3475500 13671000

95
Details Production plan:
ISW OPD TOD Comments
Week 32 (2nd
Aug) Week13(22nd
March) Week26(20th
June) For foreign fabric
Line Buyer Item P.O. No. Qty Pec PP sample
Line-1 H&M Denim 55467 21000 Approved
Fabric and Accessories details:
Fabric Status Access. Status
B. Date ETD ETA IHD B. Date ETD ETA IHD
22/3/2010 19/4/2010 15/5/2010 20/5/2010 22/3/2010 19/4/2010 15/5/2010 20/5/2010
Cutting status:
Statu
s
26/5/201
0
27/5/201
0
28/5/201
1
29/5/201
1
30/5/201
2
31/5/201
2
1/6/201
3 2/6/2013
Plan 1500 1500 Off 1500 1500 1500 1500 1500
Ach 900 1100 0 1200 1400 1500 1500 1500
Statu
s 3/6/2010 4/6/2010 5/6/2011 6/6/2011 7/6/2010 8/6/2010
9/6/201
0
10/6/201
0
Plan 1500 Off 1500 1500 1500 1500 1500 1500
Ach 1600 0 1700 1800 2000 2100 2100 2100
Sewing Status:
Status
5/29/201
0
5/30/201
0
5/31/201
0 6/1/2010 6/2/2010 6/3/2010 6/4/2010 6/5/2010
Plan 1200 1200 1200 1200 1200 1200 off 1200
Ach 1100 1150 1200 1250 1250 1000 0 1200
Status 6/6/2010 6/7/2010 6/8/2010 6/9/2010
6/10/201
0
6/11/201
0
6/12/201
0
6/13/201
0

96
Plan 1200 1200 1200 1200 1200 off 1200 1200
Ach 1250 1250 1250 1250 1100 0 1250 1250
Status
6/14/201
0
6/15/201
0
6/16/201
0
6/17/201
0
6/18/201
0
6/19/201
0 Total
Plan 1200 1200 1200 1200 off 1200
Ach 1250 1250 1250 500 0 0 21000
Finishing Status:
Statu
s 6/2/2010 6/3/2010 6/4/2010 6/5/2010 6/6/2010 6/7/2010 6/8/2010 6/9/2010
Plan 1500 1500 off 1500 1500 1500 1500 1500
Ach 1500 1500 1500 1500 1600 1600 1600
Statu
s
6/10/201
0
6/11/201
0
6/12/201
0
6/13/201
0
6/14/201
0
6/15/201
0
6/16/201
0
6/17/201
0
Plan 1500 off 1500 1500 1500 1500 1500 1500
Ach 1700 1700 1700 1700 1700 0 1700
Inspection and Shipment:
Inspection date Shipment date
19/06/2010 at 9am 20/06/2010 before 12am
Work flow
Role player - for SD & DPD
Oder receive & execution role player – SD, MM, PP, QAD

97
Sales & distribution
SOME IMAGE OF WASHING & CUTTING SECTION

98
SOME IMAGE OF MERCHANDISING SECTION.

99
SOME IMAGE OF DYEING SECTION

100
SOME IMAGE OF FINISHING SECTION

102
SOME IMAGE OF PACKAGING SECTION

103
SOME IMAGE OF QUALITY CONTROL SECTION

104
SOME IMAGE OF SAMPLE SECTION

105
SOME IMAGE OF KNITTING SECTION

106
SOME IMAGE OF SEWING SECTION

107
SOME IMAGE OF ALLOVER PRINTING SECTION

108
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
10.1 Industrial engineering:
Industrial engineering is a branch of engineering dealing with the optimization of
complex processes or systems. It is concerned with the development,
improvement, implementation and evaluation of integrated systems of people,
money, knowledge, information, equipment, energy, materials, analysis and
synthesis, as well as the mathematical, physical and social sciences together with
the principles and methods of engineering design to specify, predict, and evaluate
the results to be obtained from such systems or processes. Its underlying
concepts overlap considerably with certain business-oriented disciplines such as
Operations Management, but the engineering side tends to emphasize extensive
mathematical proficiency and usage of quantitative methods. Depending on the
sub-specialty(ies) involved, industrial engineering may also be known as
operations management, management science, operations research, systems
engineering, or manufacturing engineering, usually depending on the viewpoint
or motives of the user. Recruiters or educational establishments use the names to
differentiate themselves from others. In health care, industrial engineers are
more commonly known as health management engineers or health systems
engineers.
While the term originally applied to manufacturing, nowadays the term "industrial"
in industrial engineering can be somewhat misleading. It has grown to encompass
any methodical or quantitative approach to optimizing how a process, system, or
organization operates. Some engineering universities and educational agencies
around the world have changed the term ―industrial‖ to the broader term
―production‖, leading to the typical extensions noted above. The various topics of
concern to industrial engineers include management science, financial engineering,
engineering management, supply chain management, process engineering,
operations research, systems engineering, ergonomics, cost and value engineering,
quality engineering, facilities planning, and the engineering design process.
Traditionally, a major aspect of industrial engineering was planning the layouts of
factories and designing assembly lines and other manufacturing paradigms. And
now, in so-called lean manufacturing systems, industrial engineers work to
eliminate wastes of time, money, materials, energy, and other resources.Industrial
engineers typically use, along with extensive mathematical tools and modeling and
computational methods for system analysis, evaluation, and optimization.

109
10.2SOP (Standard operating procedure)
An SOP is a written document or instruction detailing all steps and activities of a
process or procedure. is essentially requires the documentation of all procedures
used in any manufacturing process that could affect the quality of the product.
10.3Goals of IE department
 To reduce utilization.
 Waste reduction.
 For value adding mapping(VSM)
VSM- Total cycle time of a production.
 Reduce non- value added time.
 Reduce bottle neck.
 Reduce change over time.
 Improve productivity.
 Implementation of 5S.
 Reduce 7wastage.
 Implementing kaizen.
 Execute line layout.
 Execute line balance.
 Assessment works.
 Calculate SMV.
 Time study.
 Motion study.
 Method study.
 Setting target for a production line.
Latest system development in Divine
 Changeover time & standardization.
 Bottle neck process recording.
 Creating value string mapping.
5S 6S
 Sort
 Shine
 Set in
 Standardization.
 Sustain

110
 Safety.
7wastage (developed into 8)
 Excess inventory.
 Excess transport.
 Excess motion.
 Over production.
 Defective parts.
 Un-utilize talent.
 Waiting.
 Over-processing.
An example of IE
Productive = Output
Input
Input Output
3 9 (input material is 3 output product is 9)
10% 20% (input material increase10% output product increase 20%)
20% 10% (input material reduced20% output product reduce 10%)
IE team in divine
For working in divine garments IE divided into two parts.
Industrial
engineering
Analytical
team
Operational
team

111
SMV calculation
Standard minute value. Standard values are used in formulas for
_ scheduling,
_ Capacity planning,
_ costing.
Total cost wise: - the process wise cost.
CPM= total cost of a factory including m/c, labor cost, electricity
Total output product process number
= $ 0.3 of divine garments
Machine cost wise:-
CPM = total m/c cost
Output No.
= $20
Practical calculation
Suppose,
SMV= 1.5 min
Average time/ observation time= 60 sec
Basic time = observation time x 100%
= 60 sec x 100%
Standard time = basic time x (1 + allowance rate)
= 60 x (1+ 0.2)
= 60 x 1.2

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= 72 sec
SMV = 72
60
= 1.2
Hourly capacity = 60/1.2 or (3600/ standard time)
= 50 pcs.
Target = No. of worker x WH x 60 x efficiency
SMV
Efficiency = Production x SMV
No of worker x WH x 60- NTP
CM cost in SMV method
Garment SMV - 10 min
Cost - $ 5
Profit - CM’s 30%
CPM = Cost per min = $0.3
CM = SMV x CPM + Cost + profit
= 10 x 0.3 + $5 + profit
= $8 + 2.4
= $ 10.4
Per day per M/C cost
No of M/C used – 20
Output pieces - 1,000

113
Per day per M/C cost - $18
Cost = (Total cost include work hour / number running M/C)
= $18 x 20x 10 hr
1,000
= $ 3.6
Software used in divine garments:-
GSD - general sewing data
ESFS - efficient shop floor solution.
PMTS - Pre determined Motion time system.
A&E - Thread manufacturing
NPT calculation
Non producing time - No of M/C x off time x 60 x per minute M/C cost
= 20 x 3 x 60 x 1.42
= 3600 x $0.024
= $ 85
Operational team’s work
 Execute the layout by work study tools.
 Balancing the line by method study tools.
 Allocating by support by motion study.
 Capacity problem solving.
 Man-machine utilization.
 Work study tools.
 Reducing bottle neck.

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Other related things:-
Change over time (last piece output <-> next piece output) reduction.
NTP- Non Productive Time.
Efficiency= production x SMV .
No. of worker x WH x 60 – NPT
All the supportive material should be arranged. Others or co-ordination support
ensured. Bundle size reduction.
Target by IE
Basic / semi critical style 1st
day- 50% of pick target
2nd
day- 100% of pick target.
Critical style 1st
day- 33% of pick target
2nd
3rd
Super critical style 1st
2nd
3rd
4th
Achieved Target= Total worker x WH x 60 x 75%
SMV

115
Analysis team:-
 Operating GSD.
 Tread consumption.
 Risk analysis.
 PP meeting.
Cost per minute- $ 0.3
Link with sample
 Simplicity the operation.
 Reduce Non-Value added work.
 Production difficulties remove.
10.4IE in cutting department:-
Ratio
Small -> 100 pcs
Medium -> 200 pcs
Large -> 200 pcs
XL -> 100 pcs
XXL -> 100 pcs
In this case ratio in total is 7pc. So for 700 pcs number lay will be 100.
Cutting SAP
Development stage Bulk Stage

116
S M L XL XXL
1 2 2 1 1
The cutting ratio will be discussed in cutting department.
Laying method
I. Solid fabric
II. Stripe fabric
Manual
Solid fabric
Auto
Stripe fabric – Pin adjust
Cutting quality
1. Number of lay.
2. Marker piece.
Lay information
Lay height is between 7 to 9 cm & 12cm for fleece fabric.
Generally S/J (160 gsm) lay height -150 lay
1x1 rib (200gsm) (tube) height-55 lay
Interlock, lacoste, pique (200 gsm) -90 lay
Fleece (280 gsm)- 70 lay
Lay arrange time 1hr -2hr
15’ (depends on fabric gsm
Additional time 15’-20’ Cutting time 1 hr 15’

117
Lay time is the production time.
Lean management:
Lean manufacturing or lean production, often simply, "Lean," is a production
practice that considers the expenditure of resources for any goal other than the
creation of value for the end customer to be wasteful, and thus a target for
elimination. Working from the perspective of the customer who consumes a
product or service, "value" is defined as any action or process that a customer
would be willing to pay for. Basically, lean is centered on preserving value with
less work. Lean manufacturing is a management philosophy derived mostly from
the Toyota Production System (TPS) (hence the term Toyotism is also prevalent)
and identified as "Lean" only in the 1990s. It is renowned for its focus on reduction
of the original Toyota seven wastes to improve overall customer value, but there
are varying perspectives on how this is best achieved. The steady growth of
Toyota, from a small company to the world's largest automaker, has focused
attention on how it has achieved this.
Lean manufacturing is a variation on the theme of efficiency based on optimizing
flow; it is a present-day instance of the recurring theme in human history toward
increasing efficiency, decreasing waste, and using empirical methods to decide
what matters, rather than uncritically accepting pre-existing ideas. As such, it is a
chapter in the larger narrative that also includes such ideas as the folk wisdom of
thrift, time and motion study, Taylorism, the Efficiency Movement, and Fordism.
Lean manufacturing is often seen as a more refined version of earlier efficiency
efforts, building upon the work of earlier leaders such as Taylor or Ford, and
learning from their mistakes.
A lean implementation program could be:
With a tools-based approach
 Senior management to
agree and discuss their lean
vision
 Management brainstorm to
identify project leader and
set objectives
 Communicate plan and
vision to the workforce
 Ask for volunteers to form
With a muri or flow based approach (as
used in the TPS with suppliers.
 Sort out as many of the
visible quality problems as
you can, as well as
downtime and other
instability problems, and
get the internal scrap
acknowledged and its
management started.

118
the Lean Implementation
team (5-7 works best, all
from different departments)
 Appoint members of the
Lean Manufacturing
Implementation Team
 Train the Implementation
Team in the various lean
tools - make a point of trying
to visit other non competing
businesses that have
implemented lean
 Select a Pilot Project to
implement – 5S is a good
place to start
 Run the pilot for 2–3 months
- evaluate, review and learn
from your mistakes
 Roll out pilot to other
factory areas
 Evaluate results, encourage
feedback
 Stabilize the positive results
by teaching supervisors how
to train the new standards
you've developed with TWI
methodology
 Once you are satisfied that
you have a habitual
program, consider
introducing the next lean
tool. Select the one that
gives you the biggest return
for your business.
 Make the flow of parts
through the system or
process as continuous as
possible using workcells
and market locations
where necessary and
avoiding variations in the
operators work cycle
 Introduce standard work
and stabilise the work
pace through the system
 Start pulling work through
the system, look at the
production scheduling and
move toward daily orders
with kanban cards
 Even out the production
flow by reducing batch
sizes, increase delivery
frequency internally and if
possible externally, level
internal demand
 Improve exposed quality
issues using the tools
 Remove some people (or
increase quotas) and go
through this work again
(the Oh No !! moment)

119
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
11.1. Cutting method
A method and apparatus for cutting pieces of fabrics of uniform thickness and for
stacking these pieces. The method generally includes arranging and maintaining a
length of unrolled fabric on a cutting table which comprises a revolving cylinder
which rotates so that the length of fabric is positioned to face a cutting
instrument. The fabric is cut out according to one or more predetermined
patterns when the cylinder stops rotating. Displacement of the cutting instrument
over the circumference of a cylinder follows the generators of the cylinder during
its motion. After the fabric is cut, the cylinder rotates to deposit the cutout pieces
onto a fixed or mobile receiving/stacking table which is positioned under the
cylinder. During such deposition, a new length of fabric is simultaneously
arranged on the cylinder preparatory to being cut. Alternately, a conveyor belt
can be used in lieu of the cylinder.
11.2. Capacity of divinegarments
Spreading capacity
Basic – 32,000Kgs – 7.5Kgs/Dz
Critical – 20,000Kgs - 3Kg/Dz
Cutting capacity (average): - 10,000Kgs-12,000Kgs
Cutting capacity (highest): - 14,000Kgs-15,000Kgs
Cutting M/C
Garber cutter – 1 (USA)
Spreader – 4 (RPM – 75m)
Straight Knife – 17-18 (RPM – 3300)
Bend Knife – 1
Spreading M/C

120
M/C Name – Garber – 3 (USA)
Autex – 1 (SPAIN)
Table
Bundle – 3
Sticker – 3
Spreading – 4
Scissor – 2
Software – Garber, Opitex
Cutting effeciency – 75%
Marker effeciency – 80%
Fabric fault – 5%
11.3. Work procedure of cutting department:
Fabric receive
Shade checking
Count checking
Spreading/ lay checking
Marker checking

121
Marker set up
Cutting
Cutting inspection
Sticker attaching
Final inspection print & embroidery
Bundling problem
In case Re-cut counting
Input rack
Sewing line

122
11.4. SOP of cutting Department
Merchandising Tech-pack
IE PP sheet
Sample, master pattern fabric inspection
Trial cut
Trial cutting, sewing, print, embroidery, wash
Measurement Check
Bulk cutting PO
From store fabric receive, shade, GSM, width inspection
CAD Make pattern according ratio
Spreading
Maker lay

123
Manual, Straight knife, Garber cutting
Sticker with cut piece
Bundle Card
Bundling
Inspection
Again Match
Send to sewing
Solid color match
Separate reject
Print/ Embroidery
Inspection

124
Marker
Multiple layers of fabric upon which a pattern or guide is placed for production-
line cutting. In the process of fabric spreading, the variance of fabric yardage
between fabric rolls may lead to a difference in fabric loss during spreading. As
there are numerous combinations the arrangement of the fabric roll sequences
for each cutting lay, it is difficult to construct a roll planning to minimize the fabric
wastage during spreading in apparel manufacturing.
Maker length should be 10yds- 12 yds.
Marker Type
Head to head - for low twisting fabric
Group Marker – to reduce Shade variation

125
One garments one way – For fabric hand feel
All garment one way – for 1 set garment
Side to side – for stripe body
L
L
L
L
L

126
Suppose an order quantity is 10,000.
So the cutting consumption will be
QTY 1300 3100 1100 300 2500 1700
Size S M L XL XXL XXXL
Ratio 13% 31% 11% 3% 25% 17%
300 pcs 1 5 1 1 3 2
200 pcs 4 6 4 OK 6 4
100 pcs 2 4 OK OK 5 3
In case of the ratio is broken number like (S- 375 pcs) than the next size will be cut in larger portion the
cut it short.
Fabric spreading Fabric cutting

Management and technical procedure in apparel industry ( Merchandising )

Management and technical procedure in apparel industry ( Merchandising )

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