cutting technology

1. AKSUM UNIVERSITY
COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
Course Name: Garment Manufacturing Technology
Chapter three :CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Prepared by :kibrom g/her 1

2. Flow chart
Marker Receives
from The Pattern
and CAD
Department
Cutting ratio
received from
Concern authority
Fabric receives
from store
Fabric Spreading
Marker placing on
the lay
Cutting Numbering Bundling
Cut panel
inspection:
Replace defective
part
Send to the sewing
Line

3. Working procedure of cuttingsection
1. Marker Receives from The Pattern and CAD Department: Cutting
section first receive marker from the Pattern and CAD
department.
2. Cutting ratio received : Here cutting In-Charge receive cutting
ratio from the concern authority or merchandiser, or production
manager.
3. Fabric receives from store:
4. Fabric Spreading: After fabric measure, fabric is ready for
spreading and creating fabric lay.
5. Marker placing on the lay: After creating lay, marker is placed on
the lay for cutting.
6. Cutting: Here cutting master cut fabrics lay according to marker.

4. 7. Numbering: Here Cutting panel are numbered due to avoid shade
variations.
8. Bundling: As per the production line requirement a certain number
of pieces with all component are tied together. This process is known
as bundling. Each bundle is marked with bundle number, style name,
size number and quantity of pieces in that bundle.
9. Cut panel inspection:
10. Replace defective part: If found any weaving faults on the cut
panel, replace cut panel immediately from shade matching fabrics
11. Send to the sewing Line: In this stage, cut panel send to sewing
section according to bundling size
Working procedure of cuttingsection

5. Marker
• Marker A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern
pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut `in one spread.
• Marker is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces
for different sizes for a particular style of garments. It is planned in
such a way that fabric wastage would be least.
Objectives of marker making
There are different objectives of marker making.
It helps to minimize the fabric wastages.
Marker making is the guide of fabric cutting.
It save the production time and cost

6. Marker Making
Marker Making
Marker Making is the process of determining the most efficient layout
of pattern pieces for a specified style and distribution of sizes
(requires time, skill and concentration)
It is useful to break down marker making into:
1. Marker planning, or the placement of pattern pieces to meet
technical requirements and high utilization of fabric .
2. Marker production, which may include drawing the marker plan
directly on to fabric, drawing it on to a paper marker by automatic
plotter

7. Marker Efficiency
The ratio of area for pattern pieces that are placed on the marker to the total
area of the marker expressed as percentage is called marker efficiency.
Marker efficiency =
Area of the pattern in the marker plan
Total area of the marker plan
X 100%
Marker efficiency is the important part of garments manufacturing. Direct
cost of garments could be utilized by marker efficiency.
Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the
total fabric that is actually used in garment parts. The area not used in garment
parts is waste.
Marker efficiency depends on how tightly the pattern pieces fit together
within the marker.

8. Factors that affect marker efficiency
•Factors that affect Marker Efficiency
Fabric Characteristics
Characteristics of Pattern Pieces
Grain Line Orientation

9. 1. Fabric Characteristics(fabric design ) : The fabric design can affect the marker
efficiency for example for check and strip fabric , printed fabric and
asymmetrical fabric. These fabric characteristics(fabric design frequently limit
the arrangement of pattern pieces during marker making .so it needs Special
attention required to set pattern pieces on those fabric
2. Characteristics of Pattern Pieces: The shape of the pattern pieces determine can be fit
together or not (interlock). Irregular shaped pieces are difficult to fit together
with other pieces
3. Grain Line Orientation: Pattern pieces with a similar grain orientation, if grouped
together on the marker, generally produce better utilization. Combining
several bias pieces and straight grain pieces may not fit together as well and
create more fabric waste.
Factors that affect marker efficiency

10. Factors on which marker efficiency depends on
• Skill of marker makers: Marker efficiency mainly depends on the skill, cordiality, sense of
responsibility, experience and technical knowledge of marker maker. The more trail of marker
making, the more possibility of more marker efficiency.
• Sizes of garments: The more sizes of patterns are included in marker the possibility of more
marker efficiency. But increase of huge sizes patterns, the result may be opposite.
• Length of marker: When the marker length is more, then it’s easier to place the patterns in it
which causes more marker efficiency. But illegal increasing of marker length may decrease
the marker efficiency.
• Pattern engineering: Sometimes the patterns can be modified by changing its design,
dividing by pattern engineering technique which may be increase the marker efficiency.
• Types of fabric: Marker efficiency is more for symmetric fabric. Because here it is possible to
place the patterns in different directions. But for asymmetric fabric, marker efficiency is low
due to the difficulties of placing patterns marker.
• Method of marker making: Marker efficiency is more for computerized method than manual
method. But it is more time consuming system. Marker efficiency may be more than
computerized system in case of extremely skilled and experienced marker maker.

11. Different Methods of Marker Planning
1. Manual marker planning
• This is the oldest and mostly used
method for marker planning.
• In this process, fabric is spreader on
cutting table and setting up all
pattern pieces directly on to the
fabric.
• Marking is done by chalk, pen or
pencil. This methods needs more time
and experience.
There are two methods of marker planning:
1. Manual marker planning
2. Computerized marker planning

12. 2. Computerized marker planning
It is an integrated system which includes digitizing of
full size patterns into computer to generate all the sizes
which is required.
It is of two types:
I. Automatic Marker Making
II. Interactive Method
I. Automatic Marker Making
• In the automatic marker making system, the
computer makes the marker itself according to the
command given to computer.
• In this process, higher marker efficiency can be
achieved but it is a time-consuming method, because
computer use permutation – combination method to
produce marker.
II. Interactive Method
• It is a common process, here the marker planner
plan markers by interacting directly with the system
through a computer screen.

13. Difference between Computerizedand Manual Marker Planning
no Computerized Marker Planning Manual Marker Planning
1 Computerized is the best method of marker
making and widely used.
Manual is not the best method of marker
making and not widely used.
2 Suitable for large scale production. Suitable for small scale production.
3 Marker efficiency is higher than manual
method.
Marker efficiency is comparatively lower.
4 Least amount of wastage of fabric. Large amount of wastage of fabric.
5 If required, printout of marker is possible
anytime.
Printout of marker is not possible anytime.
6 Automatic grading. Only manual grading.
7 Less time required, so productivity is
higher.
Productivity is lower
8 High initial investment. Lower initial investment.
9 Skilled operator needed. Lower skilled or semi skilled labors

14. Fabric Spreading
•Spreading is the process of
superimposing lengths of fabric on
spreading table, for preparation of
cutting process.
OBJECTIVE OF SPREADING
To place the number of plies of fabric
to the length of the marker plan
correctly aligned as to length and
width and without tension.
To cut garments in bulk

15. Requirements of Spreading Process
1) Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of
fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width.
2) Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming
fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.
3) Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces
up, all faces down, face to face etc.
4) Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as
possible.
5) Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- during spreading the
fabric (synthetic fiber) can cause static electricity so we use polythene
sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with
the base plate of the knife.
6) Fabrics must be flat and free from any fold & crease- these cause defect in
garments due to variation in dimension.

16. REASONS CONSIDERED FOR LAY HEIGHT DETERMINATION:
• For fabric spreading we should consider some parameter. discussion regarding
fabric spreading and factors that influence the lay height as well:
 Thickness of the fabric.
Cutting knife length.
 Volume of production.
 Nature of the fabric
METHODS OF SPREADING
The methods of spreading which the industry uses can be divided into:
Manual spreading
Semi-automatic spreading machines
Fully automated spreading machines

17. Manual spreading
• Two operators runs from sides of the table holding one end of the fabric
• Two or more operator required unless the spread is too short
• Time consuming method

18. Semi-automatic spreading machines
• Carrying and moving of fabric is carried
out using a machine but controlling
spreading quality is the responsibility
of spreader
• Edge alignment, ply counting, end
cutting, tension controlling may be the
responsible of the spreader

19. Automatic spreaders
• It spreads automatically controlling all the factors that affect spreading
quality
• Automatic end catcher
• End cutter
• Automatic ply counter
• Alignment controlling device (edge guide)
• Tension controlling mechanism
• Turn table

20. Types of Spreading table
• Air floatation, Turntable and Vacuum
1. Turntable used
 turn the fabric 180 degree when the spreader performs from both ends of the
spreading and FOW or other spreading modes
2. Air Floatation table
It used to push the lay upward when the lay required to move to cutting table
3. Vacuum Table
It is used to compress the lay and retain the lay in position during cutting
It covered with plastic sheet on the top

21. Spreading Modes
• Face One Way, Nap One Way (F/O/W,
N/O/W)
• Face One Way, Nap UP and Down
(F/O/W, N/U/D)
• Face One Way, Nap UP and Down
(F/O/W, N/U/D)
• Face to Face, Nap Up and Down
(F/F, N/U/D)

22. Spreading Modes
• Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F,
N/O/W)
• Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F,
N/U/D)

23. What is fusing?
•Fusing is the process of fixing a fusible interlining to the
outer fabric by application heat & pressure.
•In this process the interlining & outer fabric composite is
heated up to a specified temperature; as recommended by
the manufacturer (depending upon the melting point of
adhesive used in the coating).
•After few seconds when the adhesive becomes plastic, then
it is forced inside the fabric texture by using pressure.
•After fusing is complete, the composite has to be gradually
cooled down to convert the plastic adhesive into its original
solid state to form a strong bonding.

24. Why Fusing?
• Fusing is done to achieve the following objectives in a garment:
1. Improve dimensional stability & shape retention / crease recovery property
of outer fabric
2. Improve aesthetic value, appearance and handle of fused part.
3. Value addition to the garment
4. Reduce stitch puckering & increase seam strength.
5. Valuable aid in production for eliminating some stitching operation & better
reliability of reproducing consistent good quality.
6. Increased ease of handling, faster & better production

25. Introduction to Cutting
 To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut out the
garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting templates. In
garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy and
properly which is termed as fabric cutting.
Cutting often is carried out in two stages: rough cutting (separating the
individual pieces) and the final cutting (accurate cutting of the individual
shapes).
Why fabric cutting is required?
 To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the dimension of
the marker
 To separate the bulk of fabric in to garment component
 To accomplish mass production (to get many garments’ components at a time)

26. Requirements of Cutting
⁂Precision of cut: Garment cannot be assembled satisfactorily and may not fit
the body correctly not been cut accurately to the pattern shape and size must be
as per original sketch.
⁂Clean edge: The edge of the fabric should not show fraying. such defects on
imperfectly knife. if the fabric cut in rough its difficult during sewing its affect
the seam allowance b/c of fraying so we have to avoid fraying and it must be
clean edge
⁂Unfused edge: The build up of heat in the knife blade comes from the friction
in between the blade and fabric lay specially for man –made fiber may
resulting fused edge so it be difficult to separate the cutting panels .
⁂Consistent cutting: To get consistency of cutting, marker are placed on lay
and see plies are clamped tightly with table so that all plies are cut at same
time and same pressure

27. Cutting machines are either portable or fixed
(stationary)
PORTABLE CUTTING MACHINES
• Portable cutting machines can be
moved by the operator
• Types of portable cutting
machines
• Hand shears
• Vertical reciprocating straight
knives
• Round knives
• Fixed: the fabric/lay pushed/moved to
the blade of the machine in order to
get the garment patterns cut.
• Types of fixed
• Band Knife
• Die cutter
FIXED CUTTING MACHINES

28. Technology OF CUTTING

29. FULLY MANUAL CUTTING
Fabric scissors
Hand Shears are used when cutting samples and limited
quantities of garments.
Hand shears are limited to the cutters physical strength, but
usually no more than two layers of fabric due to the loss of
accuracy as the shears lifts the fabric off the cutting table.
This method is flexible enough to accommodate any fabric
construction and pattern shape.
This method is slow and unproductive.

30. Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine:
Straight Knife of Cutting Machine:
• Straight knife cutting machine is the most popular and
versatile cutting machine. It is widely used in clothing
industry. Because it’s production speed is very high.
Higher lay of height can be cut very easily. Besides, knife
is comparatively cheap and can be transferred from one
place to another easily.
ADVANTAGE
1) Easily available
2)Cheaper
3)Can be used for various types
of fabrics & styles
4)Knife blades are easily
available & replaceable
5)Have the option of changing
the blade size within a machine
DISADVANTAGES:-
1. Problem with sharp turns
2. Not very safe for the
operator
3. It has a issue of grip on
the fabric (stretchable
fabrics)

31. Round Knife Cutting Machine
 Also known as Rotary Cutting machine
 Performance - Small Bulk Quantity/Sampling Cutting Multi layers
 Accuracy is decreased as the lay get higher
Advantage:
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher
no. Of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator
Cutting is not uniform in all plies
Blade changing is difficult

32. Band Knife Cutting Machine:
• Band knife blades are narrower than straight knife blades.
• Band knifes blades start with and tend to retain 90 degree cutting pitch.
• This permits more precise perpendicular cutting on small sophisticated curves
and angles
Advantages:-
 Speed is high
 Precision cutting
 Easier to cut very small pieces of pattern
 Cutting of single layer or multiple layers can be done easily
Disadvantages:-
 Expensive
 Supportive infrastructure is required, which adds to the cost
 More space is required
 Safety is a major issue

33. Die Cutting Machine
• Die cutting machine involves pressing a rigid blade through the lay of fabric.
It is useful where small motifs with particular shape and pattern are needed
for cutting. Die cutting is most useful to cut sharp and small parts.
• Die Cutting is another off-table cutting method that provides cutting quality
close to perfection.
• provided with pre-fabricated cutting tools; (cutting dies) having the exact
shape of the garment pieces.
• is the most accurate means of cutting because each and every piece is cut
to the exact same shape.

34. • Two basic type of die cutters-Clickers (impact)
& presses-(hydraulic and electronic)
• Clickers- a single press on the die.
• Presses- continuous pressure on the die until
it cuts the layers and make the contact with
the base.
• Mainly used for smaller parts like collars,
pockets flaps, appliqués etc.
• Leather goods are frequently die cut

35. Advantage and disadvantage
• Advantages:-
• Very high precision cutting
• Easily available
• Cost is low
• Disadvantages:-
• Cannot be used for very dense fabrics
• Cannot be used for knits fabric (dense material)
• With every style & size change, a new frame is required

36. Notcher and drill Cutting Machine:
•Notcher
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
•Drill Cutting Machine
• Sometimes it is needed to mark on the end of components
of dresses especially for the position of pockets, darts and
similar features, a hole is often drill through all the plies of
fabric in the lay.

37. Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
1. Computer Controlled Knife Cutting
This method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed
Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting
Cutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high & blade is made of stainless
steel
Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer memory
This m/c is CAM (computer aided manufacturing) system m/c & works through CAD system

38. Advantage and disadvantage Computer Controlled Knife Cutting
Advantage
 Very fast cutting operation
 Suitable for very large scale
production
 Intensity of accident is low
 No need of marker
 Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than
manual method
 Less labor cost
Disadvantage:
Very expensive m/c
Higher maintenance cost
Skilled manpower is required
If correct disc is not loaded in
the computer, error will be
indicated

39. Laser Cutting Machine:
• Features:
In this method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using a laser
Radius of spot of light is 0.25 mm & high powerful
When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the material & cutting is done by
vaporization
Fabric is cut at a speed of 13 meter per min
Cutting head is controlled by computer

40. Advantage:
Very fast cutting operation
Can be cut in a proper line as the cutting head is controlled by computer
 no need of sharpening operation
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric
For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge should be fused
Very expensive cutting method
Advantage and disadvantage Laser Cutting Machine

41. Water Jet Cutting Machine:
• Features:
In this system, thin jet of water is passes through a nozzle.
Water jet cutting is performed by pushing a tiny jet of water (0.0010-
0.0015 inch) through fabric at very high pressure (70,000 pounds per
square inch).
The forward edge of the jet stream shears the fabric as it moves
along the cutting line but does not wet the fabric, generate airborne
contaminant, or exert an significant force on the material.
Water jet is considered a "green" technology. Water jets produce no
hazardous waste, reducing waste disposal costs

42. Advantage:
Higher cutting speed
There is no need of knife to
cut fabric so that no need of
sharpening operations
Better to cut hard material
Disadvantage:
 Not suitable for higher depth of lay of
fabric
 Sometimes water spot should be seen in
the fabric
 Need of filtering & deionization of water
 Need of controlling the sound of jet

43. PLASMATORCHCUTTING
• Features:
This system, fabric are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is made by
argon gas
One or more fabric plies can be cut
Most useful for cutting single ply of fabric
Fabrics are cut by placing in a table, the surface (85%) of which must be
place in a perforated blanked place
Still now, this system is under research

45. Advantage and disadvantage Plasma torch
Cutting
Advantage:
Automatic torch height control system
Automatic torch explosion system
Easily networked
Disadvantage:
Synthetic fiber not cut
 Higher number of fabric lay is not cut
 Need higher skill operator
Costly