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FASHION COMMUNICATION
Lesson 1

2013
POLIMODA

03/09/13

Daniela Ghidoli

|

Fashion Communication 2013

1
Objectives of the Course
1. STRATEGY: To identify fashion marketing strategies from
initial concept to a final proposal
2. MARKET RESEARCH: To demonstrate a confident analytical
approach to assimilation and evaluation of research
material
3. PLANNING: To develop integrated communication plans,
media and creative
4. BRIEFING: To work from an externally-set brief or
formulate a brief to reflect a simulated business
solution
5. PRESENTATION: communicate effectively and with authority
in writing and orally during a pitch or a presentation

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

2
Agenda

 What is Strategic
Planning?
 What is
Communication?

POLIMODA | Fashion Communication 2013
03/09/13

3
“Strategic Planning is the process of
deciding on the objectives of the
organization, on changes in these
objectives, on the resources used to
attain these objectives, and on the
policies that are to govern the
acquisition, use, and disposition of
these resources.”
Robert Anthony
Planning and Control
(Harvard Business School, 1965)

CEO
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

Definition
4
“Strategic planning is a tool for
organizing the present on the basis of
the projections of the desired future.
That is, a strategic plan is a road
map to lead an organization from where
it is now to where it would like to be
in five or ten years..”
Wikipedia

Manager
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

5
“Dear Planner,
you have the creativity to make big, bold
intuitive leaps. You have the numeracy to
make a business case for what you're
doing. And you have the chutzpah and charm
to sell it to a nervous client who has
just survived three years of restructuring
and has been given an absurd stretch goal
by her billionaire CEO.”
senseworldwide.posterous.com

Creative
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

6
Michael Porter in “On Competition” (Harvard
Business School Publishing, Boston, MA, 2008)

STRATEGIC PLANNING IS
LEARNING TO BE DIFFERENT.
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

7
1. Have an holistic view

Communication
Marketing

Creative

03/09/13

Media

Fashion Communication 2013

8
2. Simplify
PROBLEM:
What is the gap
between the actual
situation and the
ideal?

03/09/13

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Draw the ideal
See the actual
Believe it is possible
Think how to close the gap
Plan
Act
Monitoring

Fashion Communication 2013

9
3. Knowing the Professional Roles
IN A COMPANY

IN AN AGENCY

Usually the Strategic Planner in
a Company is not a concrete job
profile, but a role covered by
someone inside or outside the
Company (consultant).
03/09/13

The Strategic Planning is an
Agency Division. The Strategic
Planners work with the Creative
Team, the Account Team and the
Production Team.

Fashion Communication 2013

10
4. No sacred cows

There is NOTHING immune
from criticism.
Everything's on the
table.

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

11
5. Have models and format
Everyone has to
create their own
personal models
BUT
It’s better to
start by using the
most common ones.

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

12
What is Communication?
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

13
What is the difference?
Daniela
Female, white, 26-35 years old, high education,
city(more than one million inhabitants),
middle-income, one credit card, average
spending capacity, high cultural consumption,
own car, 3 trips/year, buy online, never
married, no children

Degree in communications and PhD in Semiotics, she
does not like to write, she spends hours on the
iPhone, she prefers paper books, she works on brand
positioning & strategic valuation, using the
semiotic square,she likes sailing, she knows
Synoptic, Blogmeter, radiant6, lexicon, Google
trends, she has done a course in graphic design for
the Internet, she was media planner, call rarely,
she loves cats, she writes hundreds of emails every
day, she loves dancing

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

14
What are the differences?

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

15
A sign is…
A SIGN is a dyad:
SIGNIFIER + SIGNIFIED

SIGNIFIER

A SIGNIFIER is:
the thoroughly material
aspect of a sign

SIGNIFIED

A SIGNIFIED is:
a mental concept.

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

16
Material Aspect VS Mental Concept
Magritte and Surrealism.

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

17
Codes through Shifters


Making signification consists of build complex and
overlapping structures:

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

18
Jakobson

Conventional

Relationship:

the sign signifies by virtue of
its difference from other
signs.

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

19
Communiation Models: Roman Jakobson


How does the Communication work?

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

20
Emotive Function (Addresser)
The emotive function dominates in
a communication when there is a
focus on the ADDRESSER/SENDER
e.g.
«I’m very happy with my new
shoes.»
Which express an addresser’s
dismay and are primarily selfserving.

On blogs
Regular Codes





First person
Self projection
monologue
POV shot or a subjective
camera

Typical topics



03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

To talk about himself
To talk about own emotions/
feeling
21
Vogue Italia
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

22
On stage
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

23
Conative Function (Addressee)
The conative function dominates in
a communication when there is a
focus on the ADDRESSEE/RECEIVER

On advertising

e.g.
«Stop!»
«Are you ready to go?»
«Touch me…»

Regular Codes

It is also called persuasive, the
focus is to achieve an action or a
mentality change.





Typical topics




03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

Imperative
Second person
Questions

prayers, exhortations
orders or advices
seduction

24
Look at me…
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

25
Phatic Function (Contact)
The phatic function dominates when
there is emphasis on the CONTACT, in
order to establish or maintain
communication
On survey/email/radio

e.g.
«Lend me your ears!»
«Are you listening?»
«Do you know what I mean?»
It’s about the channel, about its
functionality (e.g. trying the
phone).
«It’s not important what you say,
but the fact that you say something»

Regular Codes



Typical topics




03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

Common phrases about
listening/speaking
Use of exhortative
proxemics

Call to action
Irony
Frequency

26
Metalinguistic Function (Code)
The metalinguistic function
dominates when there is emphasis
on the CODE
e.g.
«Do you know what I mean?»
«Do you speak English?»
«Once upon a time…»
It establishes and refers to a
code of fiction and a conditional
probability that what is said is
not true nor false.

Dialogue/Narrative

Regular Codes



Working around typical
topics and themes




03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

Questions
Ambiguity

fairy tales
Interlinguistic situation
Misunderstanding situation

27
Poetic Function (Message)
The poetic function dominates when
there is a focus on the MESSAGE
e.g.
The campaign slogan
«I like Ike».

Ads/Creative Concept

It focuses attention on the noise
of words, the choice of words and
sentence structure. Its goal is to
communicate its shape, arouse
emotions or thoughts through the
musicality of words.

Regular Codes





Addition: repetition/
expansion/ superabundance
Omission: subtraction/
abridgment/ lack
Transposition: transferring
Permutation: switching/
interchange/ substitution/
transmutation

Typical topics and themes

03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

Quote (politics/arts/…)
28
Where is the line?
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

29
Referential Function (Context)
The referential function dominates
when there is emphasis on the
CONTEXT
e.g.
«The autumn leaves have all fallen
now.»

Everywhere
Regular Codes

It describes a situation, object
or mentale state.




Deixis: here, there, now,
tomorrow, this, that, own,
your, …
Simple Past (English)

Typical topics and themes




03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

Past
Present
Object which denotative an
historical period
30
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

31
What’s Next?
Every time you work in a Communication Strategy, remember:

1.

To select the correct style in order to say
what you want: it is not a simple selection of
words and images

2.

That we have to break up the Communication in
order to construct the correct Communication

3.

That

4.
03/09/13

Overlapping

is the way

That communication is not about writing a message,
but creating

Signification
Fashion Communication 2013

32
1. TRANSFERRING A VALUE
2. TELLING A STORY
3. REPRESENTING YOU AND YOUR RECEIVER
4. SELECTING THE CODES

COMMUNICATION IS BUILDING
SENSE
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

33
Thanks, DG.
03/09/13

Fashion Communication 2013

34

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Fashion Communication & Strategic Planning Course: Lesson 01

  • 1. FASHION COMMUNICATION Lesson 1 2013 POLIMODA 03/09/13 Daniela Ghidoli | Fashion Communication 2013 1
  • 2. Objectives of the Course 1. STRATEGY: To identify fashion marketing strategies from initial concept to a final proposal 2. MARKET RESEARCH: To demonstrate a confident analytical approach to assimilation and evaluation of research material 3. PLANNING: To develop integrated communication plans, media and creative 4. BRIEFING: To work from an externally-set brief or formulate a brief to reflect a simulated business solution 5. PRESENTATION: communicate effectively and with authority in writing and orally during a pitch or a presentation 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 2
  • 3. Agenda  What is Strategic Planning?  What is Communication? POLIMODA | Fashion Communication 2013 03/09/13 3
  • 4. “Strategic Planning is the process of deciding on the objectives of the organization, on changes in these objectives, on the resources used to attain these objectives, and on the policies that are to govern the acquisition, use, and disposition of these resources.” Robert Anthony Planning and Control (Harvard Business School, 1965) CEO 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 Definition 4
  • 5. “Strategic planning is a tool for organizing the present on the basis of the projections of the desired future. That is, a strategic plan is a road map to lead an organization from where it is now to where it would like to be in five or ten years..” Wikipedia Manager 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 5
  • 6. “Dear Planner, you have the creativity to make big, bold intuitive leaps. You have the numeracy to make a business case for what you're doing. And you have the chutzpah and charm to sell it to a nervous client who has just survived three years of restructuring and has been given an absurd stretch goal by her billionaire CEO.” senseworldwide.posterous.com Creative 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 6
  • 7. Michael Porter in “On Competition” (Harvard Business School Publishing, Boston, MA, 2008) STRATEGIC PLANNING IS LEARNING TO BE DIFFERENT. 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 7
  • 8. 1. Have an holistic view Communication Marketing Creative 03/09/13 Media Fashion Communication 2013 8
  • 9. 2. Simplify PROBLEM: What is the gap between the actual situation and the ideal? 03/09/13 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Draw the ideal See the actual Believe it is possible Think how to close the gap Plan Act Monitoring Fashion Communication 2013 9
  • 10. 3. Knowing the Professional Roles IN A COMPANY IN AN AGENCY Usually the Strategic Planner in a Company is not a concrete job profile, but a role covered by someone inside or outside the Company (consultant). 03/09/13 The Strategic Planning is an Agency Division. The Strategic Planners work with the Creative Team, the Account Team and the Production Team. Fashion Communication 2013 10
  • 11. 4. No sacred cows There is NOTHING immune from criticism. Everything's on the table. 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 11
  • 12. 5. Have models and format Everyone has to create their own personal models BUT It’s better to start by using the most common ones. 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 12
  • 14. What is the difference? Daniela Female, white, 26-35 years old, high education, city(more than one million inhabitants), middle-income, one credit card, average spending capacity, high cultural consumption, own car, 3 trips/year, buy online, never married, no children Degree in communications and PhD in Semiotics, she does not like to write, she spends hours on the iPhone, she prefers paper books, she works on brand positioning & strategic valuation, using the semiotic square,she likes sailing, she knows Synoptic, Blogmeter, radiant6, lexicon, Google trends, she has done a course in graphic design for the Internet, she was media planner, call rarely, she loves cats, she writes hundreds of emails every day, she loves dancing 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 14
  • 15. What are the differences? 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 15
  • 16. A sign is… A SIGN is a dyad: SIGNIFIER + SIGNIFIED SIGNIFIER A SIGNIFIER is: the thoroughly material aspect of a sign SIGNIFIED A SIGNIFIED is: a mental concept. 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 16
  • 17. Material Aspect VS Mental Concept Magritte and Surrealism. 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 17
  • 18. Codes through Shifters  Making signification consists of build complex and overlapping structures: 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 18
  • 19. Jakobson Conventional Relationship: the sign signifies by virtue of its difference from other signs. 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 19
  • 20. Communiation Models: Roman Jakobson  How does the Communication work? 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 20
  • 21. Emotive Function (Addresser) The emotive function dominates in a communication when there is a focus on the ADDRESSER/SENDER e.g. «I’m very happy with my new shoes.» Which express an addresser’s dismay and are primarily selfserving. On blogs Regular Codes     First person Self projection monologue POV shot or a subjective camera Typical topics   03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 To talk about himself To talk about own emotions/ feeling 21
  • 24. Conative Function (Addressee) The conative function dominates in a communication when there is a focus on the ADDRESSEE/RECEIVER On advertising e.g. «Stop!» «Are you ready to go?» «Touch me…» Regular Codes It is also called persuasive, the focus is to achieve an action or a mentality change.    Typical topics    03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 Imperative Second person Questions prayers, exhortations orders or advices seduction 24
  • 25. Look at me… 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 25
  • 26. Phatic Function (Contact) The phatic function dominates when there is emphasis on the CONTACT, in order to establish or maintain communication On survey/email/radio e.g. «Lend me your ears!» «Are you listening?» «Do you know what I mean?» It’s about the channel, about its functionality (e.g. trying the phone). «It’s not important what you say, but the fact that you say something» Regular Codes   Typical topics    03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 Common phrases about listening/speaking Use of exhortative proxemics Call to action Irony Frequency 26
  • 27. Metalinguistic Function (Code) The metalinguistic function dominates when there is emphasis on the CODE e.g. «Do you know what I mean?» «Do you speak English?» «Once upon a time…» It establishes and refers to a code of fiction and a conditional probability that what is said is not true nor false. Dialogue/Narrative Regular Codes   Working around typical topics and themes    03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 Questions Ambiguity fairy tales Interlinguistic situation Misunderstanding situation 27
  • 28. Poetic Function (Message) The poetic function dominates when there is a focus on the MESSAGE e.g. The campaign slogan «I like Ike». Ads/Creative Concept It focuses attention on the noise of words, the choice of words and sentence structure. Its goal is to communicate its shape, arouse emotions or thoughts through the musicality of words. Regular Codes     Addition: repetition/ expansion/ superabundance Omission: subtraction/ abridgment/ lack Transposition: transferring Permutation: switching/ interchange/ substitution/ transmutation Typical topics and themes  03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 Quote (politics/arts/…) 28
  • 29. Where is the line? 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 29
  • 30. Referential Function (Context) The referential function dominates when there is emphasis on the CONTEXT e.g. «The autumn leaves have all fallen now.» Everywhere Regular Codes It describes a situation, object or mentale state.   Deixis: here, there, now, tomorrow, this, that, own, your, … Simple Past (English) Typical topics and themes    03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 Past Present Object which denotative an historical period 30
  • 32. What’s Next? Every time you work in a Communication Strategy, remember: 1. To select the correct style in order to say what you want: it is not a simple selection of words and images 2. That we have to break up the Communication in order to construct the correct Communication 3. That 4. 03/09/13 Overlapping is the way That communication is not about writing a message, but creating Signification Fashion Communication 2013 32
  • 33. 1. TRANSFERRING A VALUE 2. TELLING A STORY 3. REPRESENTING YOU AND YOUR RECEIVER 4. SELECTING THE CODES COMMUNICATION IS BUILDING SENSE 03/09/13 Fashion Communication 2013 33