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Making	
  Soap	
  Using	
  Beeswax	
  and	
  
Honey	
  
How	
  Beekeepers	
  Clean	
  up	
  with	
  
Value-­‐Added	
  Products	
  
Prepared	
  by	
  Landi	
  Simone,	
  Master	
  Beekeeper,	
  Gooserock	
  Farm	
  
Why	
  Make	
  Soap?	
  
•  Luxury	
  Value-­‐Added	
  Product	
  
•  Excellent	
  return	
  for	
  small	
  amount	
  of	
  beeswax	
  or	
  
honey	
  
•  Fun	
  to	
  make	
  
•  Adds	
  to	
  variety	
  in	
  product	
  line	
  
•  Smells	
  great!	
  
•  Like	
  your	
  honey,	
  handmade	
  soaps	
  are	
  of	
  the	
  very	
  
best	
  quality	
  –	
  milder	
  than	
  any	
  commercial	
  soap	
  –	
  
and	
  you	
  and	
  your	
  customers	
  will	
  become	
  
addicted	
  to	
  them!	
  
How	
  do	
  Beeswax	
  and	
  Honey	
  Make	
  
Soap	
  BeMer?	
  
•  All	
  handmade	
  soaps,	
  even	
  those	
  with	
  no	
  beeswax	
  
or	
  honey,	
  are	
  naturally	
  1/3	
  glycerin,	
  a	
  humectant	
  
which	
  aMracts	
  moisture	
  to	
  the	
  skin	
  
•  Honey	
  is	
  hygroscopic.	
  	
  Adding	
  it	
  to	
  any	
  cosmeRc	
  
increases	
  that	
  product’s	
  condiRoning/
moisturizing	
  properRes	
  
•  Beeswax	
  does	
  three	
  things	
  in	
  soap:	
  
–  It	
  makes	
  the	
  soap	
  gentler	
  on	
  the	
  skin	
  
–  It	
  makes	
  the	
  soap	
  harder	
  and	
  longer-­‐lasRng	
  
–  It	
  helps	
  the	
  soapmaker	
  by	
  decreasing	
  the	
  Rme	
  it	
  takes	
  
the	
  soap	
  to	
  “trace.”	
  (More	
  on	
  this	
  later.)	
  
What	
  is	
  Soap?	
  
•  Soap	
  is	
  a	
  salt	
  of	
  a	
  faMy	
  
acid	
  used	
  as	
  a	
  surfactant	
  
for	
  washing,	
  bathing,	
  and	
  
cleaning.	
  
•  Soap	
  is	
  the	
  result	
  of	
  a	
  
chemical	
  process	
  called	
  
saponifica)on.	
  
•  Soapmakers	
  combine	
  
various	
  fats	
  and	
  oils	
  with	
  
lye	
  (sodium	
  hydroxide)	
  
and	
  water	
  to	
  create	
  soap.	
  
All	
  Soap	
  is	
  Made	
  with	
  Lye	
  
•  BUT,	
  correctly	
  made	
  soap	
  does	
  not	
  CONTAIN	
  
lye!	
  
•  Transparent	
  (glycerin)	
  soaps	
  are	
  also	
  made	
  using	
  
lye	
  and	
  are	
  then	
  further	
  treated	
  with	
  alcohol.	
  
•  All	
  the	
  lye	
  added	
  in	
  soapmaking,	
  if	
  the	
  correct	
  
amount	
  is	
  used,	
  is	
  chemically	
  bound	
  with	
  the	
  
faMy	
  acids	
  in	
  the	
  oils	
  and	
  fats	
  and	
  
becomes…..soap!	
  Only	
  if	
  too	
  much	
  lye	
  is	
  used	
  in	
  
the	
  first	
  place	
  will	
  there	
  be	
  lye	
  in	
  your	
  soap.	
  
Basic	
  Soapmaking	
  101	
  
•  WEIGH	
  the	
  fats	
  and	
  oils	
  in	
  your	
  recipe,	
  put	
  them	
  in	
  a	
  
pot	
  and	
  set	
  them	
  to	
  melt.	
  	
  Then	
  let	
  them	
  cool.	
  
•  WEIGH	
  the	
  correct	
  amount	
  of	
  lye.	
  
•  MEASURE	
  the	
  right	
  amount	
  of	
  water.	
  
•  COMBINE	
  the	
  lye	
  and	
  water	
  and	
  set	
  it	
  aside	
  to	
  cool.	
  
•  When	
  the	
  lye	
  water	
  and	
  the	
  fats	
  have	
  cooled	
  to	
  the	
  
right	
  temperature,	
  COMBINE	
  them	
  and	
  STIR.	
  This	
  starts	
  
the	
  chemical	
  reacRon.	
  
•  When	
  the	
  soap	
  TRACES,	
  pour	
  it	
  into	
  your	
  MOLDS.	
  
•  Next	
  day,	
  unmold	
  and	
  cut	
  the	
  soap	
  into	
  bars.	
  	
  Let	
  cure.	
  
Making Soap Using Beeswax & Honey - A Guidebook to Making your Own Beeswax Soap
Making Soap Using Beeswax & Honey - A Guidebook to Making your Own Beeswax Soap
“Trace”:	
  What	
  is	
  it?	
  
•  Tracing	
  is	
  a	
  change	
  in	
  the	
  
texture	
  of	
  the	
  liquid	
  soap	
  in	
  
the	
  pot.	
  	
  It	
  becomes	
  thicker	
  
so	
  that	
  a	
  spoonful	
  of	
  the	
  
soap	
  drizzled	
  on	
  the	
  surface	
  
will	
  leave	
  a	
  “trace.”	
  
•  When	
  the	
  soap	
  has	
  traced,	
  
the	
  chemical	
  reacRon	
  has	
  
advanced	
  to	
  the	
  point	
  that	
  
the	
  soap	
  can	
  be	
  poured	
  into	
  
the	
  molds.	
  
•  Beeswax	
  makes	
  soap	
  trace	
  
much	
  faster!	
  
Soapmaking	
  Tools	
  
Your	
  Most	
  Important	
  Tool	
  
•  Choose	
  a	
  scale	
  that	
  has	
  the	
  
capacity	
  to	
  weigh	
  the	
  
largest	
  batch	
  of	
  soap	
  you	
  
think	
  you	
  might	
  want	
  to	
  
make.	
  
•  Accuracy	
  to	
  .02	
  pounds	
  for	
  
larger	
  scales	
  or	
  .01	
  ounce	
  	
  	
  (.
006	
  pounds)	
  for	
  smaller	
  
capacity	
  scales.	
  
•  Should	
  have	
  a	
  “tare”	
  
feature.	
  
•  Should	
  have	
  an	
  A/C	
  outlet.	
  
•  Should	
  be	
  big	
  enough	
  to	
  
securely	
  hold	
  your	
  pot.	
  
What	
  fats	
  go	
  into	
  soap?	
  
•  All	
  fats	
  are	
  composed	
  of	
  different	
  combinaRons	
  of	
  faMy	
  
acids,	
  like	
  oleic	
  acid,	
  linoleic	
  acid,	
  lauric	
  acid,	
  etc.	
  	
  
These	
  faMy	
  acids	
  contribute	
  different	
  properRes	
  to	
  
soap	
  such	
  as	
  hardness,	
  condiRoning,	
  lathering.	
  	
  	
  
•  If	
  you	
  “get	
  into	
  it”	
  and	
  design	
  your	
  own	
  soap	
  recipes,	
  
you	
  will	
  need	
  to	
  have	
  a	
  working	
  knowledge	
  of	
  the	
  
properRes	
  of	
  the	
  various	
  fats	
  and	
  what	
  they	
  contribute	
  
to	
  your	
  soap.	
  
•  You,	
  can,	
  however,	
  make	
  a	
  great	
  soap	
  by	
  incorporaRng	
  
several	
  basic,	
  important	
  fats.	
  
•  There	
  are	
  many	
  excellent	
  proven	
  recipes	
  on-­‐line	
  and	
  in	
  
books.	
  
Commonly	
  Used	
  Fats	
  
•  Coconut	
  Oil:	
  	
  Makes	
  for	
  a	
  quick,	
  fluffy	
  lather.	
  	
  
EssenRal	
  in	
  a	
  soap	
  that	
  lathers	
  well.	
  Too	
  much	
  
can	
  be	
  drying.	
  Most	
  recipes	
  contain	
  coconut	
  oil.	
  
•  Palm	
  Oil:	
  	
  Makes	
  smaller,	
  long-­‐lasRng	
  bubbles.	
  
Makes	
  a	
  briMle,	
  hard	
  soap	
  that	
  is	
  mild.	
  
•  Olive	
  Oil:	
  	
  Great	
  moisturizing	
  properRes.	
  	
  Poor	
  
lathering	
  qualiRes.	
  	
  Soap	
  made	
  with	
  all	
  olive	
  oil	
  is	
  
“casRle”	
  soap	
  and	
  is	
  very	
  mild.	
  Use	
  “pure”	
  grade,	
  
not	
  extra	
  virgin.	
  Used	
  alone,	
  takes	
  very	
  long	
  to	
  
trace	
  (someRmes	
  weeks!)	
  
And	
  More	
  Fats….	
  
•  Castor	
  Oil:	
  Makes	
  a	
  beauRfully	
  emollient,	
  hard	
  bar	
  of	
  
soap	
  when	
  used	
  in	
  combinaRon	
  with	
  other	
  oils.	
  
•  Palm	
  Kernel	
  Oil:	
  Makes	
  a	
  white,	
  very	
  hard	
  soap	
  with	
  
great	
  lather	
  but	
  can	
  be	
  drying	
  if	
  used	
  in	
  excess.	
  	
  Similar	
  
to	
  coconut.	
  
•  Other	
  oils:	
  CoMonseed,	
  soy,	
  hemp,	
  cocoa	
  buMer,	
  
sunflower,	
  tallow,	
  lard,	
  peanut,	
  safflower,	
  jojoba,	
  corn,	
  
etc.	
  
•  Beeswax	
  is	
  treated	
  as	
  a	
  fat	
  in	
  soapmaking.	
  
•  We	
  COMBINE	
  fats	
  to	
  get	
  the	
  qualiRes	
  we	
  want.	
  	
  Note	
  
that	
  the	
  majority	
  of	
  the	
  fats	
  in	
  your	
  recipe	
  should	
  be	
  
SOLID	
  	
  (hydrogenated)	
  at	
  room	
  temperature.	
  
SaponificaRon	
  Values	
  (SAP)	
  
•  SAP	
  =	
  Milligrams	
  of	
  potassium	
  hydroxide	
  required	
  
to	
  saponify	
  1g	
  of	
  a	
  parRcular	
  fat.	
  
•  SAP	
  values	
  are	
  used	
  to	
  calculate	
  how	
  much	
  lye	
  is	
  
needed	
  in	
  your	
  soap	
  recipe.	
  	
  	
  
•  Most	
  “soapers”	
  use	
  sodium	
  hydroxide	
  (lye),	
  not	
  
potassium	
  hydroxide,	
  so	
  a	
  liMle	
  math	
  is	
  needed	
  to	
  
convert	
  the	
  units.	
  
•  There	
  are	
  many	
  easy-­‐to-­‐use	
  lye	
  calculators	
  
available	
  on-­‐line:	
  www.thesage.com	
  or	
  
www.brambleberry.com	
  are	
  two	
  websites	
  with	
  
good	
  ones.	
  
Lye	
  DiscounRng	
  or	
  	
  
“Super-­‐falng”	
  
•  These	
  terms	
  mean	
  the	
  same	
  thing	
  and	
  refer	
  to	
  
the	
  pracRce	
  of	
  adding	
  a	
  liMle	
  less	
  lye	
  than	
  you	
  
need	
  to	
  saponify	
  all	
  the	
  fats	
  in	
  your	
  recipe.	
  In	
  
pracRce,	
  it	
  means	
  adding	
  a	
  liMle	
  more	
  fat	
  than	
  
you	
  need.	
  	
  	
  Lye	
  discounRng	
  is	
  a	
  guarantee	
  that	
  
you	
  will	
  not	
  have	
  an	
  excess	
  of	
  lye	
  in	
  your	
  soap.	
  	
  	
  
•  Most	
  soapers	
  add	
  5%	
  to	
  8%	
  extra	
  fat	
  as	
  a	
  lye	
  
discount.	
  	
  Less	
  than	
  this	
  risks	
  a	
  harsh	
  soap.	
  	
  
More	
  will	
  result	
  in	
  a	
  soap	
  that	
  is	
  sop	
  or	
  greasy.	
  
Let’s	
  Design	
  a	
  Soap!	
  
•  Most	
  soap	
  recipes	
  are	
  designed	
  by	
  the	
  pound,	
  and	
  then	
  the	
  
“unit	
  recipe”	
  is	
  just	
  mulRplied	
  for	
  producRon.	
  	
  Let’s	
  try:	
  
–  6	
  ounces	
  palm	
  oil	
  (long-­‐lasRng	
  lather,	
  hardness)	
  
–  5	
  ounces	
  coconut	
  oil	
  (big	
  bubbles	
  right	
  away)	
  
–  4	
  ½	
  	
  ounces	
  pure	
  olive	
  oil	
  (great	
  condiRoning)	
  
–  ½	
  ounce	
  beeswax	
  (condiRoning,	
  hardness)	
  
•  16	
  ounces	
  total	
  
•  This	
  should	
  produce	
  a	
  hard,	
  mild	
  soap	
  with	
  good	
  lather.	
  	
  
How	
  much	
  lye	
  will	
  we	
  need?	
  
Use	
  www.thesage.com’s	
  lye	
  calculator:	
  
We	
  enter	
  the	
  
amounts	
  of	
  the	
  
various	
  fats	
  and	
  oils,	
  
known	
  as	
  “fixed	
  
oils”	
  by	
  soapmakers,	
  
and	
  hit	
  the	
  
“calculate	
  lye”	
  
buMon	
  at	
  the	
  
boMom,	
  and….	
  
Voila!	
  	
  Out	
  pops	
  the	
  answer!	
  
We’ll	
  use	
  2.36	
  oz	
  of	
  lye,	
  
a	
  6%	
  lye	
  discount.	
  
Making	
  the	
  Soap	
  Smell	
  Wonderful	
  
•  Many	
  people	
  comment	
  on	
  how	
  
great	
  our	
  Honey	
  House	
  smells,	
  
and	
  are	
  drawn	
  to	
  our	
  booth	
  at	
  
crap	
  fairs	
  and	
  farm	
  markets.	
  
•  Use	
  essenRal	
  oils	
  for	
  all-­‐natural	
  
fragrance.	
  
•  Use	
  fragrance	
  oils	
  for	
  some	
  great	
  
smells	
  not	
  available	
  in	
  essenRal	
  
oils	
  (like	
  vanilla.)	
  
•  Be	
  careful	
  with	
  certain	
  spicy	
  or	
  
citrus	
  essenRal	
  oils	
  and	
  some	
  
fragrance	
  oils.	
  	
  They	
  can	
  make	
  
your	
  soap	
  curdle,	
  separate,	
  or	
  
seize.	
  ALWAYS	
  make	
  a	
  test	
  batch	
  
of	
  a	
  pound	
  or	
  two!	
  
Adding	
  Fragrance	
  
•  Rule	
  of	
  thumb:	
  Add	
  1	
  
tablespoon	
  of	
  fragrance/
essenRal	
  oil	
  per	
  pound	
  of	
  
soap	
  
•  Use	
  less	
  for	
  things	
  like	
  
clove	
  or	
  	
  cinnamon	
  e.o.	
  	
  
•  ALWAYS	
  test	
  a	
  new	
  recipe	
  
in	
  a	
  small	
  one	
  or	
  two	
  
pound	
  batch.	
  
•  Add	
  fragrance	
  to	
  your	
  fats	
  
just	
  before	
  combining	
  
with	
  the	
  lye-­‐water.	
  
Adding	
  Botanicals	
  
•  “Botanicals”	
  are	
  dried	
  
goodies	
  like	
  oatmeal,	
  flower	
  
petals,	
  herbs,	
  ground	
  
scrubby	
  things	
  (like	
  apricot	
  
kernel)	
  that	
  act	
  as	
  an	
  
exfoliant	
  and/or	
  make	
  the	
  
soap	
  preler.	
  
•  Add	
  them	
  to	
  the	
  cooled	
  fats	
  
when	
  you	
  add	
  your	
  
fragrance.	
  
•  Be	
  aware	
  that	
  many	
  
botanicals	
  will	
  discolor	
  
under	
  the	
  acRon	
  of	
  the	
  lye.	
  
Always	
  make	
  a	
  TEST	
  batch!	
  
Coloring	
  the	
  Soap	
  
Soap	
  Colorants	
  
•  Soap	
  can	
  be	
  colored	
  in	
  many	
  ways,	
  or	
  not	
  at	
  all.	
  
•  Some	
  use	
  natural	
  colorants	
  like	
  carrot	
  juice	
  or	
  beet	
  juice.	
  	
  Honey	
  
added	
  to	
  the	
  lye	
  water	
  colors	
  soap	
  a	
  rich	
  brown.	
  
•  Natural	
  mineral	
  pigments	
  such	
  as	
  iron	
  oxide	
  or	
  ultramarine	
  make	
  
beauRful	
  colors,	
  as	
  do	
  mica	
  powders.	
  
•  FD	
  &	
  C	
  colors	
  are	
  arRficial,	
  but	
  very	
  vivid.	
  
•  Some	
  soapers	
  even	
  use	
  crayons!	
  
•  Colors	
  can	
  be	
  layered	
  or	
  marbleized	
  for	
  a	
  dramaRc	
  touch.	
  
•  All	
  colorants	
  are	
  either	
  water-­‐soluble	
  and	
  added	
  to	
  the	
  lye	
  water	
  
or	
  fat-­‐soluble	
  and	
  blended	
  into	
  the	
  melted	
  fats.	
  	
  Glycerin	
  is	
  a	
  good	
  
vehicle	
  for	
  pre-­‐mixing	
  both	
  types.	
  
•  Follow	
  recommended	
  usage	
  guidelines	
  for	
  the	
  type	
  of	
  color	
  you	
  
are	
  using.	
  Do	
  not	
  use	
  so	
  much	
  that	
  the	
  soap’s	
  lather	
  is	
  not	
  white	
  
or	
  color	
  comes	
  off	
  on	
  a	
  washcloth.	
  	
  In	
  the	
  case	
  of	
  soap	
  coloring,	
  
less	
  is	
  more!	
  ½	
  to	
  1	
  tsp	
  per	
  pound	
  is	
  a	
  good	
  starRng	
  point.	
  
Now	
  let’s	
  make	
  some	
  soap!	
  
First	
  we	
  weigh	
  the	
  fats.	
  
•  The	
  pot	
  is	
  the	
  “tare.”	
  	
  It	
  
goes	
  directly	
  on	
  the	
  scale.	
  
•  Be	
  neat	
  and	
  precise.	
  	
  
Accurate	
  measurements	
  are	
  
criRcal	
  for	
  making	
  good	
  
soap.	
  
•  Don’t	
  walk	
  away	
  in	
  the	
  
middle	
  of	
  a	
  measurement.	
  	
  
Many	
  scales	
  automaRcally	
  
turn	
  off	
  if	
  lep	
  for	
  a	
  period	
  of	
  
Rme.	
  
•  Put	
  the	
  pot	
  of	
  fats	
  on	
  the	
  
stove	
  over	
  medium	
  heat	
  to	
  
melt.	
  
Next,	
  we	
  weigh	
  out	
  the	
  lye	
  and	
  
measure	
  the	
  water.	
  
•  It’s	
  a	
  good	
  idea	
  to	
  wear	
  safety	
  
goggles	
  and	
  plasRc	
  gloves	
  
whenever	
  handling	
  lye,	
  even	
  in	
  
the	
  dry	
  phase.	
  
•  We	
  usually	
  measure	
  6	
  to	
  8	
  
fluid	
  ounces	
  of	
  water	
  per	
  
pound	
  of	
  soap	
  in	
  the	
  batch.	
  	
  
The	
  higher	
  amount	
  will	
  take	
  
longer	
  to	
  cure	
  but	
  is	
  less	
  likely	
  
to	
  do	
  undesirable	
  things	
  like	
  
curdle	
  or	
  seize.	
  	
  	
  
•  Precision	
  measurement	
  of	
  
water	
  is	
  not	
  as	
  important	
  as	
  
accuracy	
  in	
  weighing	
  lye	
  and	
  
fats.	
  
Pour	
  the	
  water	
  into	
  a	
  thick	
  plasRc	
  
bucket	
  or	
  container	
  
•  Remember	
  that	
  once	
  
you	
  add	
  the	
  lye,	
  the	
  
mixture	
  will	
  get	
  very	
  hot	
  
–	
  almost	
  boiling!	
  	
  Do	
  
NOT	
  use	
  glass	
  or	
  
anything	
  that	
  might	
  
break.	
  
•  You	
  can	
  test	
  a	
  container	
  
by	
  pouring	
  boiling	
  water	
  
into	
  it	
  and	
  lelng	
  it	
  sit	
  
for	
  a	
  while.	
  
Now	
  we	
  combine	
  the	
  lye	
  and	
  the	
  
water	
  and	
  sRr	
  
•  ALWAYS	
  ADD	
  LYE	
  TO	
  WATER,	
  NOT	
  
WATER	
  TO	
  LYE!	
  (unless	
  you	
  are	
  fond	
  
of	
  explosions.)	
  Remember:	
  
•  “It’s	
  always	
  smart	
  to	
  add	
  lye	
  to	
  
water.	
  	
  Add	
  water	
  to	
  lye,	
  and	
  you	
  
may	
  die!”	
  
•  Wear	
  safety	
  goggles,	
  gloves,	
  shoes.	
  
•  Smoothly	
  pour	
  the	
  lye	
  into	
  a	
  thick	
  
plasRc	
  container	
  containing	
  the	
  
water,	
  hold	
  your	
  breath,	
  and	
  sRr	
  
the	
  mixture	
  unRl	
  combined.	
  
•  The	
  fumes	
  are	
  VERY	
  CHOKEY.	
  Do	
  
not	
  breath	
  them.	
  	
  Do	
  not	
  let	
  
children	
  or	
  animals	
  near	
  the	
  area.	
  
•  It’s	
  best	
  to	
  do	
  this	
  outside	
  if	
  
possible..	
  
Unhappy,	
  but	
  safe!	
  
More	
  Safety	
  Notes	
  
•  Lye	
  is	
  the	
  scariest	
  part	
  of	
  making	
  soap.	
  	
  SRngs	
  are	
  the	
  
reason	
  more	
  people	
  don’t	
  keep	
  bees	
  and	
  lye	
  is	
  the	
  
reason	
  more	
  people	
  don’t	
  make	
  soap.	
  
•  Lye	
  is	
  a	
  causRc	
  chemical	
  that	
  can	
  burn	
  or	
  blind	
  you.	
  
•  Use	
  basic	
  common	
  sense	
  and	
  you	
  will	
  be	
  fine.	
  
•  Adding	
  lye	
  to	
  water	
  is	
  an	
  exothermic	
  process,	
  i.e.,	
  	
  it	
  
generates	
  HEAT.	
  	
  The	
  lye	
  water	
  will	
  immediately	
  heat	
  
up	
  to	
  around	
  200º.	
  Water	
  boils	
  at	
  212º.	
  
•  Even	
  a	
  slight	
  whiff	
  of	
  the	
  causRc	
  fumes	
  will	
  set	
  you	
  
coughing.	
  	
  Test	
  the	
  direcRon	
  of	
  the	
  wind	
  and	
  stand	
  
upwind.	
  	
  Hold	
  your	
  breath	
  as	
  an	
  added	
  precauRon.	
  	
  
Mixing	
  the	
  lye	
  water	
  only	
  takes	
  a	
  few	
  seconds.	
  	
  Do	
  it	
  
and	
  walk	
  away.	
  

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Making Soap Using Beeswax & Honey - A Guidebook to Making your Own Beeswax Soap

  • 1. Making  Soap  Using  Beeswax  and   Honey   How  Beekeepers  Clean  up  with   Value-­‐Added  Products   Prepared  by  Landi  Simone,  Master  Beekeeper,  Gooserock  Farm  
  • 2. Why  Make  Soap?   •  Luxury  Value-­‐Added  Product   •  Excellent  return  for  small  amount  of  beeswax  or   honey   •  Fun  to  make   •  Adds  to  variety  in  product  line   •  Smells  great!   •  Like  your  honey,  handmade  soaps  are  of  the  very   best  quality  –  milder  than  any  commercial  soap  –   and  you  and  your  customers  will  become   addicted  to  them!  
  • 3. How  do  Beeswax  and  Honey  Make   Soap  BeMer?   •  All  handmade  soaps,  even  those  with  no  beeswax   or  honey,  are  naturally  1/3  glycerin,  a  humectant   which  aMracts  moisture  to  the  skin   •  Honey  is  hygroscopic.    Adding  it  to  any  cosmeRc   increases  that  product’s  condiRoning/ moisturizing  properRes   •  Beeswax  does  three  things  in  soap:   –  It  makes  the  soap  gentler  on  the  skin   –  It  makes  the  soap  harder  and  longer-­‐lasRng   –  It  helps  the  soapmaker  by  decreasing  the  Rme  it  takes   the  soap  to  “trace.”  (More  on  this  later.)  
  • 4. What  is  Soap?   •  Soap  is  a  salt  of  a  faMy   acid  used  as  a  surfactant   for  washing,  bathing,  and   cleaning.   •  Soap  is  the  result  of  a   chemical  process  called   saponifica)on.   •  Soapmakers  combine   various  fats  and  oils  with   lye  (sodium  hydroxide)   and  water  to  create  soap.  
  • 5. All  Soap  is  Made  with  Lye   •  BUT,  correctly  made  soap  does  not  CONTAIN   lye!   •  Transparent  (glycerin)  soaps  are  also  made  using   lye  and  are  then  further  treated  with  alcohol.   •  All  the  lye  added  in  soapmaking,  if  the  correct   amount  is  used,  is  chemically  bound  with  the   faMy  acids  in  the  oils  and  fats  and   becomes…..soap!  Only  if  too  much  lye  is  used  in   the  first  place  will  there  be  lye  in  your  soap.  
  • 6. Basic  Soapmaking  101   •  WEIGH  the  fats  and  oils  in  your  recipe,  put  them  in  a   pot  and  set  them  to  melt.    Then  let  them  cool.   •  WEIGH  the  correct  amount  of  lye.   •  MEASURE  the  right  amount  of  water.   •  COMBINE  the  lye  and  water  and  set  it  aside  to  cool.   •  When  the  lye  water  and  the  fats  have  cooled  to  the   right  temperature,  COMBINE  them  and  STIR.  This  starts   the  chemical  reacRon.   •  When  the  soap  TRACES,  pour  it  into  your  MOLDS.   •  Next  day,  unmold  and  cut  the  soap  into  bars.    Let  cure.  
  • 9. “Trace”:  What  is  it?   •  Tracing  is  a  change  in  the   texture  of  the  liquid  soap  in   the  pot.    It  becomes  thicker   so  that  a  spoonful  of  the   soap  drizzled  on  the  surface   will  leave  a  “trace.”   •  When  the  soap  has  traced,   the  chemical  reacRon  has   advanced  to  the  point  that   the  soap  can  be  poured  into   the  molds.   •  Beeswax  makes  soap  trace   much  faster!  
  • 11. Your  Most  Important  Tool   •  Choose  a  scale  that  has  the   capacity  to  weigh  the   largest  batch  of  soap  you   think  you  might  want  to   make.   •  Accuracy  to  .02  pounds  for   larger  scales  or  .01  ounce      (. 006  pounds)  for  smaller   capacity  scales.   •  Should  have  a  “tare”   feature.   •  Should  have  an  A/C  outlet.   •  Should  be  big  enough  to   securely  hold  your  pot.  
  • 12. What  fats  go  into  soap?   •  All  fats  are  composed  of  different  combinaRons  of  faMy   acids,  like  oleic  acid,  linoleic  acid,  lauric  acid,  etc.     These  faMy  acids  contribute  different  properRes  to   soap  such  as  hardness,  condiRoning,  lathering.       •  If  you  “get  into  it”  and  design  your  own  soap  recipes,   you  will  need  to  have  a  working  knowledge  of  the   properRes  of  the  various  fats  and  what  they  contribute   to  your  soap.   •  You,  can,  however,  make  a  great  soap  by  incorporaRng   several  basic,  important  fats.   •  There  are  many  excellent  proven  recipes  on-­‐line  and  in   books.  
  • 13. Commonly  Used  Fats   •  Coconut  Oil:    Makes  for  a  quick,  fluffy  lather.     EssenRal  in  a  soap  that  lathers  well.  Too  much   can  be  drying.  Most  recipes  contain  coconut  oil.   •  Palm  Oil:    Makes  smaller,  long-­‐lasRng  bubbles.   Makes  a  briMle,  hard  soap  that  is  mild.   •  Olive  Oil:    Great  moisturizing  properRes.    Poor   lathering  qualiRes.    Soap  made  with  all  olive  oil  is   “casRle”  soap  and  is  very  mild.  Use  “pure”  grade,   not  extra  virgin.  Used  alone,  takes  very  long  to   trace  (someRmes  weeks!)  
  • 14. And  More  Fats….   •  Castor  Oil:  Makes  a  beauRfully  emollient,  hard  bar  of   soap  when  used  in  combinaRon  with  other  oils.   •  Palm  Kernel  Oil:  Makes  a  white,  very  hard  soap  with   great  lather  but  can  be  drying  if  used  in  excess.    Similar   to  coconut.   •  Other  oils:  CoMonseed,  soy,  hemp,  cocoa  buMer,   sunflower,  tallow,  lard,  peanut,  safflower,  jojoba,  corn,   etc.   •  Beeswax  is  treated  as  a  fat  in  soapmaking.   •  We  COMBINE  fats  to  get  the  qualiRes  we  want.    Note   that  the  majority  of  the  fats  in  your  recipe  should  be   SOLID    (hydrogenated)  at  room  temperature.  
  • 15. SaponificaRon  Values  (SAP)   •  SAP  =  Milligrams  of  potassium  hydroxide  required   to  saponify  1g  of  a  parRcular  fat.   •  SAP  values  are  used  to  calculate  how  much  lye  is   needed  in  your  soap  recipe.       •  Most  “soapers”  use  sodium  hydroxide  (lye),  not   potassium  hydroxide,  so  a  liMle  math  is  needed  to   convert  the  units.   •  There  are  many  easy-­‐to-­‐use  lye  calculators   available  on-­‐line:  www.thesage.com  or   www.brambleberry.com  are  two  websites  with   good  ones.  
  • 16. Lye  DiscounRng  or     “Super-­‐falng”   •  These  terms  mean  the  same  thing  and  refer  to   the  pracRce  of  adding  a  liMle  less  lye  than  you   need  to  saponify  all  the  fats  in  your  recipe.  In   pracRce,  it  means  adding  a  liMle  more  fat  than   you  need.      Lye  discounRng  is  a  guarantee  that   you  will  not  have  an  excess  of  lye  in  your  soap.       •  Most  soapers  add  5%  to  8%  extra  fat  as  a  lye   discount.    Less  than  this  risks  a  harsh  soap.     More  will  result  in  a  soap  that  is  sop  or  greasy.  
  • 17. Let’s  Design  a  Soap!   •  Most  soap  recipes  are  designed  by  the  pound,  and  then  the   “unit  recipe”  is  just  mulRplied  for  producRon.    Let’s  try:   –  6  ounces  palm  oil  (long-­‐lasRng  lather,  hardness)   –  5  ounces  coconut  oil  (big  bubbles  right  away)   –  4  ½    ounces  pure  olive  oil  (great  condiRoning)   –  ½  ounce  beeswax  (condiRoning,  hardness)   •  16  ounces  total   •  This  should  produce  a  hard,  mild  soap  with  good  lather.     How  much  lye  will  we  need?  
  • 18. Use  www.thesage.com’s  lye  calculator:   We  enter  the   amounts  of  the   various  fats  and  oils,   known  as  “fixed   oils”  by  soapmakers,   and  hit  the   “calculate  lye”   buMon  at  the   boMom,  and….  
  • 19. Voila!    Out  pops  the  answer!   We’ll  use  2.36  oz  of  lye,   a  6%  lye  discount.  
  • 20. Making  the  Soap  Smell  Wonderful   •  Many  people  comment  on  how   great  our  Honey  House  smells,   and  are  drawn  to  our  booth  at   crap  fairs  and  farm  markets.   •  Use  essenRal  oils  for  all-­‐natural   fragrance.   •  Use  fragrance  oils  for  some  great   smells  not  available  in  essenRal   oils  (like  vanilla.)   •  Be  careful  with  certain  spicy  or   citrus  essenRal  oils  and  some   fragrance  oils.    They  can  make   your  soap  curdle,  separate,  or   seize.  ALWAYS  make  a  test  batch   of  a  pound  or  two!  
  • 21. Adding  Fragrance   •  Rule  of  thumb:  Add  1   tablespoon  of  fragrance/ essenRal  oil  per  pound  of   soap   •  Use  less  for  things  like   clove  or    cinnamon  e.o.     •  ALWAYS  test  a  new  recipe   in  a  small  one  or  two   pound  batch.   •  Add  fragrance  to  your  fats   just  before  combining   with  the  lye-­‐water.  
  • 22. Adding  Botanicals   •  “Botanicals”  are  dried   goodies  like  oatmeal,  flower   petals,  herbs,  ground   scrubby  things  (like  apricot   kernel)  that  act  as  an   exfoliant  and/or  make  the   soap  preler.   •  Add  them  to  the  cooled  fats   when  you  add  your   fragrance.   •  Be  aware  that  many   botanicals  will  discolor   under  the  acRon  of  the  lye.   Always  make  a  TEST  batch!  
  • 24. Soap  Colorants   •  Soap  can  be  colored  in  many  ways,  or  not  at  all.   •  Some  use  natural  colorants  like  carrot  juice  or  beet  juice.    Honey   added  to  the  lye  water  colors  soap  a  rich  brown.   •  Natural  mineral  pigments  such  as  iron  oxide  or  ultramarine  make   beauRful  colors,  as  do  mica  powders.   •  FD  &  C  colors  are  arRficial,  but  very  vivid.   •  Some  soapers  even  use  crayons!   •  Colors  can  be  layered  or  marbleized  for  a  dramaRc  touch.   •  All  colorants  are  either  water-­‐soluble  and  added  to  the  lye  water   or  fat-­‐soluble  and  blended  into  the  melted  fats.    Glycerin  is  a  good   vehicle  for  pre-­‐mixing  both  types.   •  Follow  recommended  usage  guidelines  for  the  type  of  color  you   are  using.  Do  not  use  so  much  that  the  soap’s  lather  is  not  white   or  color  comes  off  on  a  washcloth.    In  the  case  of  soap  coloring,   less  is  more!  ½  to  1  tsp  per  pound  is  a  good  starRng  point.  
  • 25. Now  let’s  make  some  soap!   First  we  weigh  the  fats.   •  The  pot  is  the  “tare.”    It   goes  directly  on  the  scale.   •  Be  neat  and  precise.     Accurate  measurements  are   criRcal  for  making  good   soap.   •  Don’t  walk  away  in  the   middle  of  a  measurement.     Many  scales  automaRcally   turn  off  if  lep  for  a  period  of   Rme.   •  Put  the  pot  of  fats  on  the   stove  over  medium  heat  to   melt.  
  • 26. Next,  we  weigh  out  the  lye  and   measure  the  water.   •  It’s  a  good  idea  to  wear  safety   goggles  and  plasRc  gloves   whenever  handling  lye,  even  in   the  dry  phase.   •  We  usually  measure  6  to  8   fluid  ounces  of  water  per   pound  of  soap  in  the  batch.     The  higher  amount  will  take   longer  to  cure  but  is  less  likely   to  do  undesirable  things  like   curdle  or  seize.       •  Precision  measurement  of   water  is  not  as  important  as   accuracy  in  weighing  lye  and   fats.  
  • 27. Pour  the  water  into  a  thick  plasRc   bucket  or  container   •  Remember  that  once   you  add  the  lye,  the   mixture  will  get  very  hot   –  almost  boiling!    Do   NOT  use  glass  or   anything  that  might   break.   •  You  can  test  a  container   by  pouring  boiling  water   into  it  and  lelng  it  sit   for  a  while.  
  • 28. Now  we  combine  the  lye  and  the   water  and  sRr   •  ALWAYS  ADD  LYE  TO  WATER,  NOT   WATER  TO  LYE!  (unless  you  are  fond   of  explosions.)  Remember:   •  “It’s  always  smart  to  add  lye  to   water.    Add  water  to  lye,  and  you   may  die!”   •  Wear  safety  goggles,  gloves,  shoes.   •  Smoothly  pour  the  lye  into  a  thick   plasRc  container  containing  the   water,  hold  your  breath,  and  sRr   the  mixture  unRl  combined.   •  The  fumes  are  VERY  CHOKEY.  Do   not  breath  them.    Do  not  let   children  or  animals  near  the  area.   •  It’s  best  to  do  this  outside  if   possible..  
  • 30. More  Safety  Notes   •  Lye  is  the  scariest  part  of  making  soap.    SRngs  are  the   reason  more  people  don’t  keep  bees  and  lye  is  the   reason  more  people  don’t  make  soap.   •  Lye  is  a  causRc  chemical  that  can  burn  or  blind  you.   •  Use  basic  common  sense  and  you  will  be  fine.   •  Adding  lye  to  water  is  an  exothermic  process,  i.e.,    it   generates  HEAT.    The  lye  water  will  immediately  heat   up  to  around  200º.  Water  boils  at  212º.   •  Even  a  slight  whiff  of  the  causRc  fumes  will  set  you   coughing.    Test  the  direcRon  of  the  wind  and  stand   upwind.    Hold  your  breath  as  an  added  precauRon.     Mixing  the  lye  water  only  takes  a  few  seconds.    Do  it   and  walk  away.