An Internship report on Concorde Garments Group

Internship Report on “How to run an Export Oriented RMG factory and why worker unrest happening in Bangladesh”
BY MD.MATIUR RAHMAN 1
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY:
The Readymade Garment (RMG) industry of Bangladesh tells an impressive story of country
successful transition towards a major export- oriented economy. Starting its journey in the
late 1970s with relatively small investment, the industry flourished in 1980 and 1990 and has
become the largest industry in Bangladesh. The contributory factors of the RMG industry in
Bangladesh are global trading agreement, cheap labor cost, government policy support and
dynamic private entrepreneurship. All these things have helped Bangladesh to gain a
handsome share in the global garment business. From early 1990 onwards the RMG industry
has become the largest foreign exchange earning sector in the economy. In 2005-06,
Bangladesh earned nearly $ 8 billion by exporting garment products and RMG cover 75
percent of the total export of the country, having the lion’s share of the country’s exchange.
Contribution of RMG is very positive in Bangladesh economy, sharing 13 percent of the total
national GDP. Moreover the industry has become a vehicle for further industrialization of the
country.
The focal point of Concorde Garments Group (CGG) has been founded in 1983 and since
then accelerated to its journey with the commitment to the society to build prosperous
Industrial backbone for socio-economic development of the country. After almost 21st
economic years, it has established a number of diversified and potential buyers throughout
the world for manufacturing and marketing of a wide variety of consumers and export
oriented products.
Presently, Concorde Garments Group (CGG) is one of the leading Garments Companies in
Bangladesh, which has been contributing buyer agency activities in a large extent of the
country by providing quality branded-generic Garments. The organization believes in
'Quality never ends' and refuses to settle for anything until it exceeds the existing standard.
The company has been awarded with the ISO-9001: 2000 Certificate in January 1985 for
serving its valued customers with products of excellent quality.
As the principal aims and objectives of Concorde Garments Group (CGG), are to improve
professionalism in the contemporary garments ware business arena as well as to realize the
authentic demands of garment goods throughout the 3rd world countries. Thus CGG
organizes seminars, discussion forums, workshops, professional training courses, continuing
education programs, cultural events and publishes newsletters etc. as parts of its professional

activities. All this activities has been done to observe out the actual current SWOT analysis
circumstances of the organization. By which the executive board gets some feasible idea of
future strategic moves of the organization.
However, CGG always believes that a creative Human Recourse can build a modern country.
Because, fairly a well-established human resource management can built a constructive
organization likewise some constructive organizations can build a modern country. However,
nowadays HR Department is considerate as the Mutual Bridge of making eventually
understandable decisions between all the departments among an organization. How and why
is that? The answer is – “Since each department is Human Oriented and HRM deals with
every individual human being or employee working in an organization, this statement is true
as well as valid one. So HRM decrease the distances and conflicts between the employees of
all the departments as well as enhance the work efficiency of the workforce which eventually
results a certain amount of profit maximization for the companionship. Finally a profitable
company must contribute to the economy of the country’s development.

PRESENT SITUATION OF RMG SECTOR IN BANGLADESH:
There is that old adage, don’t kill the golden goose. Why I compare Bangladesh garments
sector with the golden goose? The reason is the garment sector in Bangladesh has been giving
for many years. Bangladesh is the second largest exporter of readymade garment products
trailing China according to the McKinsey report (2011). Bangladesh’s garment exports
during July-June 2012-13 period climbed by about 12.7 percent to US$ 21.515 billion over
exports of US$ 19.089 billion made during the corresponding period of 2011-12. In 2012-13,
the top three export destinations for Bangladesh garments were Europe, which accounted for
US$ 12.56 billion, followed by the US and Canada, which accounted for US$ 4.99 billion
and US$ 980 million, respectively. But now it has received bad news. Recent incidents like
fire in the Tazreen Fashions factory in November 2012 that killed more than 110 and the
collapse of the Rana Plaza garment factory building in April 2013 that killed over 1,100
people and more than 2,500 were injured in the disaster. It may be the second biggest
industrial accident in recent history. As a result, The President Barack Obama-led US
government in last year June suspended Bangladesh from the Generalized System of
Preferences (GSP), which allows duty-free entry of over 5000 goods to the US market from
least developed countries. Now, RMG products (which make up most of the US import from
Bangladesh) are not included in the list of duty-free products in GSP, there will an export fall
of about $40 million .At present, Bangladesh exports about $5 billion worth of goods (mostly
RMG products) to the USA every year and hence, the suspension from US GSP will account
for a fall in export of about 0.8 %. Losing the GSP facility will cost Bangladesh millions of
dollars in taxes. It is also influence the European Union to take similar action, which would
have a much bigger impact on Bangladesh and its garment sector. In August, Garment factory
workers clashed demanding a Taka 8,000 minimum monthly wage. Many factories closed for
clashing. The owners finally agreed to pay Taka 5,300 as prescribed by a government-
endorsed wage board on Nov 4. In November, 18,800 people lost their work for fire in
Standard Group. The factory was among the ten biggest in the country and it was the biggest
supplier of Gap from Bangladesh. The loss to the firm could run into more than US$100
million. In December, The European Parliament has threatened to withdraw GSP, the duty
and quota-free access to EU market that Bangladesh enjoys. The European Union buys more
than $12 billion in Bangladeshi garments each year, or roughly three-fifths of the country’s
production. If the EU were to withdraw or suspend the facility, the price per unit of garment
will rise and this may lead to many European buyers turning their backs on our products.

So, Bangladesh would suffer a huge setback. Due to the recent political unrest, Bangladesh
RMG sector losses in billions of taka every day. The blockades have put the garment sector
in a tight corner as exporters are counting losses from order cancellation and rising transport
costs. Buyers are cancelling orders as exporters fail to meet the lead time due to transport
crisis. Some buyers are also imposing penalties in case of delayed shipment, cutting prices of
garment products and transport costs have surged by around 30 percent due to expensive air
shipment. Many factories have halted production as they can’t bring imported raw materials
from ports. The BGMEA’s research and development team has collected three-day data
(December 1-3) from 10 exporters to assess the overall losses caused by the blockade. Orders
worth $3.96 lakh were cancelled during the period, while the exporters spent $3.08 lakh on
air shipment. Many small factory owners may go bankrupt due to failing shipment on time.
So that’s the trap: the golden goose is caught between a rock and a hard.

PART: 01
ORGANIZATION PROFILE & OVERVIEW

01. INTRODUCTION:
At independence in 1971, most observers of the newly emerged country took a pessimistic
view about the developmental prospect of Bangladesh. Many thought that the country would
remain permanently locked in a ‘below poverty level equilibrium trap’. Although there is
little room for complacency Bangladesh has come a long way from there. About two-fifths of
the economy is now connected with the global economy through exports, imports, factor and
commodity markets; the degree of openness of the economy currently stands at 40%.
Bangladesh can now rightfully claim that she has graduated from a predominantly aid
receiving nation to a trading nation. The export-oriented RMG sector has made crucial
contribution to this above mentioned transformation of the Bangladesh economy. The role of
our RMG entrepreneurs, domestic fiscal and financial, institutional policy support and
incentives put in place by successive governments, substantial RMG-supportive linkage
activities within the domestic economy and global market opportunities combined to create a
story which is, to be honest and true, unparalleled in the developing world. When jute and
jute goods were losing their traditional markets, with the prospect of drastic fall in forex
earnings it is the RMG sector which came in first to replace it, and then to overtake it. While
traditional export sector could not yield expected results, the RMG sector gradually injected
dynamism in the export as well as in the domestic economy though backward and forward
linkage economic activities. The export-oriented readymade garments (RMG) sector in
Bangladesh started its journey in late 1970s as a small non-traditional sector of export.
Bangladesh exported RMG worth only US$ 69 thousand when Reaz Garments exported its
first consignment to USA in 1978. By FY 2002, within a span of about two decades exports
have gone up to US$4.5 billion. Over the past decade alone, the sector registered a
phenomenal growth rate of 15 percent per annum, which is impressive by any standard. In
fact, this was an exceptionally high growth rate for an emerging industry anywhere in the
world. The industrial base which sustained such high growths also enjoyed a robust
expansion, from less than 50 factories in 1983 to more than 3,400 in 2002, with the number
of RMG workers reaching approximately 1.5 million. Despite many difficulties faced by the
sector over the past years, it continued to show robust performance, competitive strength and,
of no less importance, social commitment. RMG’s contribution to Bangladesh economy is
well-known, well-appreciated and well-respected. However, often times the magnitude of its
multiplier impact and implications will justify the support that this sector has been given over
the past years and also the support it is currently seeking from the government? In FY2002

Bangladesh exported RMG products worth 4.5 billion US dollars. Here share in total US
imports of apparels was 3.2% in EU it was 3.3% and in Canada it was 3.0%. Bangladesh is
known in these countries as a small country with a strong presence. Everywhere, RMG serves
as a flagship product of our country, inducing people’s interest in Bangladesh both as a
tourist and investment destination. These are the impacts which are difficult to quantify, yet
without which the country perhaps would not have been able to project itself to a trajectory of
high growth and higher standards of living. Thus, RMG’s contribution to Bangladesh, both
direct and indirect, needs to be recognized for what it is. In the following pages, an attempt is
made to quantify the key role that RMG has come to play in the economy of Bangladesh. The
RMG sector has also played a significant role in the social metamorphosis in a broader
context. This paper attempts to qualify aspects such as women empowerment, population
control, education, environmental awareness, elimination of child labor which contributed to
overall improvement in the HDI (Human Development Index) Indicators. It should be noted
that the study is not exhaustive, and can be further improved upon.
01.01. THE RMG SECTOR IN BANGLADESH:
01.01.02. OVERVIEW OF THE RMG SECTOR:
The economy of Bangladesh is largely dependent on agriculture. However, in recent years, the
Ready-Made Garments (RMG) sector has emerged as the biggest earner of foreign currency. The
RMG sector has experienced an exponential growth since the 1980s. The sector contributes
significantly to the GDP. It also provides employment to around 4.2 million Bangladeshis. An
overwhelming number of workers in this sector are women. This has affected the social status of
many women coming from low income families. “The readymade garment (RMG) sector is one
of Bangladesh's most important industries for employment.”
(Reaz-Bin-Mahmud, Skills development in Bangladesh RMG sector, 2014)
01.01.03. HISTORY:
In the 1950s, labors in the Western World became highly organized; forming trade unions.
This and other changes provided workers greater rights including higher pay; which resulted
in higher cost of production. Retailers started searching for places where the cost of
production was cheaper. Developing economies like Hong Kong, Taiwan and South Korea

presented themselves as good destinations for relocations because they had open economic
policies and had non-unionized and highly disciplined labor force that could produce high
quality products at much cheaper costs. In order to control the level of imported RMG
products from developing countries into developed countries, Multi Fiber Agreement
(MFA) was made in 1974. The MFA agreement imposed an export rate 6 percent increase
every year from a developing country to a developed country. It also allowed developed
countries to impose quotas on countries that exported at a higher rate than the bilateral
agreements. In the face of such restrictions, producers started searching for countries that
were outside the umbrella of quotas and had cheap labor. This is when Bangladesh started
receiving investment in the RMG sector. In the early 1980s, some Bangladeshis received
free training from Korean Daewoo Company. After these workers came back to Bangladesh,
many of them broke ties with the factory they were working for and started their own
factories.
01.01.04. FACTS & FIGURES:
In the 1980s, there were only 50 factories employing only a few thousand people. Currently,
there are 4490 manufacturing units. The RMG sector contributes around 76 percent to the
total export earnings. In 2007 it earned $9.35 billion. This sector also contributes around 13
percent to the GDP, which was only around 3 percent in 1991. Of the estimated 4.2 million
people employed in this sector, about 50 percent of them are women from rural areas. In
2000, the industry consisting of some 3000 factories employed directly more than 1.5 million
workers of whom almost 80% were female. USA is the largest importer of Bangladeshi
RMG products, followed by Germany, UK, France and other E.U countries.
01.01.05. THE FUTURE:
The RMG sector is expected to grow as many small and medium industries have grown here
over the years. To meet high demand from low-end garment makers, zippers, buttons, labels,
hooks, hangers, elastic bands, thread, backboards, butterfly pins, clips, collar stands,
collarbones and cartons are the major garment accessories that are being produced in
Bangladesh. (Source: http://www.thefinancialexpress-bd.com/index.php)
Several studies have shown that Bangladesh has immense potentials for garment business in
the coming years. International buyers are shifting to Bangladesh with the increased orders,

as the cost of production in other competing countries including China has soared
abnormally. However, there is no dispute that the most vital role behind our RMG sector’s
success is playing by cheap labor, which has given the Bangladesh garments sector an extra
advantage with its rivals.
01.01.06. CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP PROFILE:
Concorde Garments Group, one of the oldest readymade garments manufacturer and
business houses in Bangladesh, is a market leader in the manufacturing and exporting of
garments, textiles, IT and glass products. CGG relentless pursuit towards high quality
products, created by talented and hard-working workforce, who are amongst the most
experience and well-trained in the country, have enabled CGG to be in the position that
enjoy today. Concorde Group, based in Bangladesh, is a group of Industries with sustained
goodwill and expertise in exports oriented ready-made garment manufacturer.
 Founded in 1983 by Mr. Sayeeful Islam, the current Managing Director.
 The 7th garment factory in Bangladesh.
 Set up with the help of German and Korean technicians.
 Located in Mirpur (Concorde Garments Ltd.) and Elephant Road area (Tulip
Garments Ltd.), which are at the center of Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Concorde Group post MFA strategy has been based on quality and reliability supported by
large production capacities, backward linkage, professional management, refined
technology, and market-oriented value-added basics.
 An ISO 9001:8000 certified factory
 Has three decades of manufacturing and exporting garments; one of the pioneers
in the garments industry in Bangladesh
 One of the few factories in Bangladesh that can make fully-taped shirts
 CGG is run by expats with decades of experience in this field
 Sample section is right next to CGG’s merchandising section; as such, CGG are
very good in developing new styles and products for their buyers.
 From 1st January, 2011, Bangladeshi products, even those with single-stage
conversion, will have duty free access to the EU.

CGG have been in the ethical shirt and blouse manufacturing business for over three decades
now, and the company believes that they can lay claim to be a market leader and trendsetter
in this industry in Bangladesh. Throughout the decades of their existence they concentrated
on specializing in the production of a single category: woven tops – shirts and blouses, and
created their own niche in the market. CGG’s biggest asset they feel their workers, many of
whom have been with them for decades, who with their training that CGG have provided
over the years, and their experience and efforts, have grown to be amongst the best in their
field, in the country. CGG’s total factory area, located in 2 centers in the heart of Dhaka, the
capital of Bangladesh in is approximately 125,000 square feet in two premises, which are
socially complied with all local laws, and as per the requirements of the best retailers in the
world. CGG has over 2500 employees and a highly trained, skilled, efficient & dedicated
manpower and management system. New and state of the art machinery enables them to
continue to sustain a high quality production & a prompt delivery schedule. CGG takes on
the challenges of change in the apparel industries and also keep up to date with current
fashion trends and requirements. CGG’s factory has achieved the below globally recognized
certifications with regards to social compliance:
 GSV
 ISO 9001: 2008
 CT-PAT
 WRAP – Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production
 WCA – Workers Conditions Assessment

01.01.07. STATISTIC / CAPACITY:
 CONCORDE GARMENTS LTD.
 15 production Lines;
 700 sewing machines, about 40% of which are auto-trimming.
 1850 employees
 95,000 sq. feet factory area.
 Monthly production capacity: 450,000 ~ 500,000 PCs. Specialized production
capacity out of total capacity.
 Armhole & Side Seam Fused shirts – 300,000 pieces each per month.
 Fully taped/Fused shirts – 2, 50,000 pieces/month.
 TULIP GARMENTS LTD.
 4 production Lines
 225 sewing machines, about 40% of which are auto-trimming.
 500 employees.
 35,000 sq. feet factory area.
 Monthly production capacity: 100,000 ~ 125,000 PCs.
 By mid-2014, with CGG’s new unit, CGG is expecting the combined capacity
will increase up to
 Total 30 production Lines;
 Total 900,000 PCs Shirts and Ladies Blouses per month
By mid-2014, with CGG’s new unit, CGG is expecting the combined capacity will increase
up to:
 Total 32 production Lines;
 Total 900,000 PCs Shirts and Ladies Blouses per month

01.01.07. LIST OF ALL MACHINE IN CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP:
Sl. No Name of Machine Quantity
1 SNLS(with thread trimmer) 1122
2 SNLS(with Edged cutter) 153
3 SNCS 153
4 DNLS 102
5 5 Needle Over lock 51
6 FOA(Feed of the arm) 102
7 MNLS (Kansai) 51
8 Button Hole machine 153
9 Button attach machine 102
10 Bartack machine 51
11 Fusing Machine(Coller and Calf) kannegiesser 4
12 Body part fusing machine 17
13 Electric fabric cutting machine 56
14 Coller forming machine 18
15 Coller turning machine 51
16 Thread shucker machine 15
17 Steam iron table and iron 135
18 Coller band machine 5
19 Metal detector machine 3
20 Barcode checking machine 4
Total Quantity of Machine in CGG Factory 2348
Fig 01.01: ALL MACHINE IN CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP

01.01.08. All MACHINE PICTURE WHICH USING IN CONCORDE GARMENTS:
Fig 01.02: All MACHINE PICTURE USING IN CONCORDE GARMENTS

01.01.09. ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE:
 CGG employ around two thousand one hundred skilled workers and one hundred and
fifty supervisory and managerial staff in CGG’s production facilities.
 Planning, Production, Procurement, Merchandising, Marketing, Human Resources,
and Administration are located at the Mirpur site while finance, shipping, logistics
and information systems are located in CGG corporate office at Karwan Bazar,
Dhaka.
 Eighty percent of the workforce is women, which is a significant contribution to
women's empowerment in a developing country like Bangladesh.
 Management staff consists of a healthy combination of national and international
recruits, designed to provide CGG with the necessary capacity to successfully
compete in global manufacturing and export.
01.01.10. ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL):
Concorde Garments group has been working with 2.5% AQL for their best quality
service to their customers.

01.02. BOARD OF DIRECTORS:
Sl. No. Name Designation
1 Mr. Sayeeful Islam Managing Director
2 Mr. Raiyan Islam Director
3 Brigadier general Rabbani (Ret.) CEO
4 AKM Sohan Alam CFO
5 Mr. Induka N Sudirikku Director Production
6 Major general Aktaruzzaman (Ret.) GM-HR
7 Mr. Aktar Hossain DGM- Marketing
Fig 01.03: BOARD OF DIRECTORS
01.03. ORGANOGRAM OF CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP:
Fig 01.04: ORGANOGRAM OF CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP

01.04. PRODUCTION PROCESS AND TECHNOLOGY:
Modern apparel manufacturing techniques have been adopted to ensure optimum
efficiency.
The factory has the latest in labor saving and time efficient machinery to enable it to
compete in the world market.
Style analysis, risk analysis, layout planning and production targets based on
Standard Minute Values (SMV) are defined by the Industrial Engineering department
to ensure that planning is meticulous and shipments are on time.
Production monitoring system using bar coded tickets ensures accurate recording of
work-in-progress and provides management with live production data. This helps
production management to be proactive in correcting potential imbalances within the
process and provides invaluable data to monitor operators' efficiency.
01.05. CGG UNIQENESS:
Bangladesh has a mature garment industry with a tradition of more than thirty years of
Export to international markets. Its society has a thousand year old history of harmony and
homogeneity among major religious and ethnic denominations, and is founded upon ethical,
social and family values. Bangladesh is a signatory to major international Treaties upholding
labor and human rights. Concorde Group has successfully harnessed the benefits of its
investments and managerial expertise to cater exclusively to ethically complied high street
retailers and department stores around the world. Innovative and Higher quality products,
response to fashion trends and market needs as well as large Production capacities have
established it as a well-known vendor of woven-tops from Asia.
 Best Quality
 Best Product Safety
 Best Price
 Training Production
 Process and Technology

01.06. CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP TIME LINE:
Year Progress
1983 Founded Concorde Garments Limited (Mirpur)
1985 Founded Tulip Garments Limited
1988 Formed in a Group of Company
1992 Founded Osman Interlinings Limited
1995 Opened C&F Agency
1998 Formed Architectural Glass Manufacturing Company
2003 OIL teamed Join ventured with Doublegull Interlinings Ltd
2004 Formed SSL Wireless
2005 Formed Osman Accessories Ltd
2014 Newly Inaugurate Concorde Garments Limited (Kathgora)
Fig 01.05: CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP TIME LINE
01.07. SISTER CONCERN OF CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP:
01. Concorde Garments Limited (Mirpur)
02. Tulip Garments
03. Osman Interning
04. Osman Accessories Limited
05. Architectural Glass
06. Concorde Garments Limited (Kathgora, Savar)
01.08. PRODUCTS:
Concorde Garments Group Produces vast category garments products ranging from
various types of shirts, pants, ladies blouses, knit wares, sweaters etc. to other products
like decorative glass and software. It is well-known for its uncompromising product
quality which uses state of the art technology in production.

01.09. GARMENTS:
The garments sections of Concorde Garments Group produces different types Of
shirts, blouses, Knits, pants, sweaters, suits, jackets and undergarments.
01.10. JUTE PRODUCTS:
With the growing demand for Eco-friendly products nowadays, Jute has become
extremely popular in the recent past, its demand being for products such as bags,
fabric, carpets, ropes, wine bags, etc. We will be able to fulfill all your needs with
regards to jute, also popularly known as The Golden Fiber and its related products.
Having an office in Bangladesh, the world leader in jute products, we are able to
provide the highest quality jute products at the most competitive prices.
01.11. SRATEGIC BUSINESS UNITES:
We have taken our manufacturing skills and expanded the knowledge and
management skills and have own various other strategic business units to produce
various products. We also have sound joint ventures with Chinese manufacturers to
produce Interlining. Each of the business units has kept to some degree of their unique
identities, which helps customers and staff to remember the long and proud histories
of CONCORDE GROUP.

01.12. INTERLINING:
Osman Interlinings Limited (OIL), a concern of Concorde Garments Group, was formed in
1992 to supply high quality interlinings to the garments industries. In 2003, OIL Teamed up
with Double gull Interlinings Ltd., the largest interlining manufacturer in the People’s
Republic of China, and formed OTL-Double gull Manufacturing Company, a Joint venture
company that currently manufactures interlinings, and is located in the Export Processing
Zone (EPZ) in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Currently, OTL-Double gull Manufacturing Company is
the largest manufacturers of woven and non-woven Interlinings in Bangladesh. OTL-Double
gull Manufacturing Company's interlinings are nominated for all high-end buyers, and
current manufactures about 200 types of Interlinings. Interlinings are made here under strict
quality controlling mechanisms. A Thorough company profile of OIL can be provided on
request.
01.13. ACCESSORIES:
 Keeping in mind the need for quick delivery of accessories, Concorde Garments
Group formed Osman Accessories Ltd. (OAL) in 2005 to source high quality
accessories for itself and the emerging garments factories of Bangladesh;
 OAL is currently sourcing all required accessories from different accessories factories
under strict quality monitoring processes and supplying to the leading garments
industries.

01.14. C & F AGENCY:
We have our own C&F agency to help import and export our products. Our C&F
personnel are located at all regulatory port areas like Dhaka Airport, Dhaka ICD,
Chittagong Port, Benapole Port, etc. Having own C&F agency helps us release
imported goods quickly, at relatively competitive cost. This also helps while
exporting the goods. We also have our partnered transport agency to transport our raw
materials from various ports to our production units and export the same to nominated
ports. This reduces the hassle to wait for transportation in case of urgency and during
rush season.
01.15. SOCIAL COMPLIANCE - CODE OF CONDUCT:
Concorde Garments Group is a responsible and ethical apparel producer and embodies, both
in spirit and practice, internationally established codes of social accountability and ethical
business practices. It recognizes and respects cultural differences and employs individuals
solely on the basis of their qualification for the job. It identifies and works with suppliers and
buyers who as individuals and in the conduct of their business abide by local laws and have
ethical standards compatible to its own.
The basis of the various parameters that comprise the code of conduct are drawn from the
following:
 Ethical Trading Initiative
 Global Sourcing Principles of Key Customers
 ILO Conventions
 Local Legislation
CGG factory has received the following high level certifications due to CGG quality and
social compliance standards, and CGG commitment to constantly improving the working
conditions of CGG employees:
 Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) – Gold level
 ISO 9001: 2008
 Workers Conditions Assessment (WCA) Assessment Award
 Global Security Verification (GSV)

The following are some characteristics of our factories: Safety features:
 Protective gear for Operators.
 Clearly marked aisles and exits.
 Separate spot removing room with exhaust fan.
 Boiler room surrounded by 10 inch thick concrete wall.
 Needle-guard for every sewing machine.
 Metal Hand-Gloves for Cutting Operators.
01.16. SECURITY FEATURES:
 CTPAT (Customs-Trade Partnership against Terrorism) – Approved.
 Barbed wire all along factory walls;
 Secure warehouse for safe storage of fabric, accessories and finished goods;
 Close Circuit TV for surveillance;
 Well trained security personnel;
 “Carton” and “Finished Goods Storage” section accessible ONLY by authorized
personnel
01.17. MICSLLENIOUS FEATURES:
 No child labor
 Time card system
 Employee notice board to keep them aware of their rights and latest developments
 Welfare officers constantly training the employees about their rights, and other
relevant issues facing them
 Loud speakers to make announcements if necessary
 2% of the workers are trained in using CPR
 Floor mats provided to all employees with standing jobs
 Training center for giving necessary education to employee
 Separate clean toilets with for males and females with liquid soap and hand dryers

 Lockers for all employees to safely keep their valuables
 “Water cooling” system to provide workers a comfortable temperature to work in
 About 4% of the workers are trained in how to administer First Aid. Employee
benefits:
 No excess overtime
 Paid Maternity leave benefit as per Govt. law
 Doctor’s room with full-time doctor, nurse and 1 bed for every 500 workers
 “Eid (religious festival for the Muslims) Bonus” given during the two Eids of the year
 Safe drinking water for all employees (ground water that further goes through a
Process of filtration)
 Childcare room with a bathroom, located near exit
 Canteen with seating arrangement for 30% of the workforce
 “Dry Food” shop for all employees
 Clean and congenial working environment
 Unused Annual Leave Payment
 Airy and well-lit workplaces
 First Aid Box for every 100 workers
Fig 01.06: YEAR ON YEAR PROGRASS
Year on Year Progress
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
1983-1990 1991-1995 1996-2000 2001-2005 2006-2010 2011-2013
Yearly Turnover In Million USD

01.18. MAJOR CLIENTS OF CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP:
Fig 01.07: MAJOR CLIENTS OF CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP

01.19. BUSINESS ACHIVEMENT OF THE GROUP:
In our constant endeavors to improve our factory and conditions of our workers, Concorde
Garments Ltd has achieved the following high-level certifications in the field of quality,
ethical trade and social compliance:
Certification Name Certificate
Global Group ISO 14001
ISO 9001:2008
WRAP
Sedex
GSV
WCA
(http://www.concordegarments.com/index.php/garments-units/achievements)

01.20. CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONCIBILITY:
Concorde Garments CSR commitments are as mentioned below:
 Recruitment of physically challenged individuals – TVET Project with CRP and ILO 
 Yearly Eye Camp for employees 
 Quarterly 0-5 Clinic for workers‟ children 
 Free ultra-sound and medicine for pregnant female workers 
 Sponsored IT laboratory in Dhaka University and BAF Shaheen School, Dhaka
 Distributing free newspapers among students and teachers in various universities 
 Contribution for SIDR effected people 
 Garments & Blankets for poor people during winter 
 Co-sponsored to Asian Games qualifying round Hockey Tournament in 2006 and
2010 
 Early Childhood Development (ECD) project with USAID and Save the Children.

01.21. GREEN (ENVIRONMENT) INITIATIVE:
CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP is one of most renowned environment friendly textile
production facility in Bangladesh. Our environment initiatives have been well recognized not
only by other international business organization but also by World Bank & Asian
Development Bank as well.
Few examples are:
 More than 280,000 liters of treated effluent water is being used for 8000 worker’s
toilet flush every day, saving 75M liters of underground water every year.
 250,000 square feet roof top is being used to collect approx. 45 million liters of rain
water which is later used in textile wet processing without utilizing the valuable
underground water and saving extra chemicals of water softening.
 5 MW gas generator exhaust used in co-generation chiller to support 750 MT of air
cooling in the Concorde Garments Group Spinning Mill. Also in the fabric plant, it is
planning to use 3MW generator exhaust in the Boiler. Both technology saves
substantial energy and reduced carbon emission.
 Re-condensed steam water is being transported to the boiler feeder tank which increases
the temperature by 15-20C, saves hefty energy and minimizes global warming.

 Fabric dryer exhaust is being redirected to air inlet and feed into the burner to reduce
the energy consumption. A simple innovative technique which Concorde Garments
Group started to use 3 years back and now incorporated by famous GMBH Textile
Machine Manufacturer, Bruckner in their latest series of Stinger.
 Per year approx. 50 Tons of food residue created during lunch of 7000 employees, are being
used to develop natural fertilizer and being distributed among the neighboring farmers at free
of cost-an initiative which avoids environment pollution and supports the community.
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PART: 02
DIFFERENT DIPERTMENT’S ACTIVITIES IN CGG

02. LIST OF DEPARTMENT OF CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP:
1. Finance and Commercial department
2. HR department
3. Merchandising department
4. Sample department
5. Store/warehouse
6. Cutting and Fusing department
7. Sewing and production department
8. Finishing and Packaging department
9. Quality control department
10. Compliance

02.01. FINANCE AND COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT:
Concorde garments group’s corporate house at Jahangir tower 4th
floor where the finance and
commercial department situated. Basically, finance department runs the financial accounting
system and perform functions such as:
02.01.01. ACTIVITIES OF THIS DEPARTMENT:
 Help in Management Decision Making.
CGG financial accounting system records all the transactions happening in the
organization on a day to day basis. To make decisions managers need information.
Necessary information can be generated through financial accounting system as it
record actual transactions happening in the company.
 Provide Information to Potential and Present Investors to Make Their
Investment Decisions.
MD sir expects a return on the investment they make. If the return is satisfactory they
hold/buy the investment. If it is not satisfactory they sell the investment. To decide
whether to buy/hold or sell the investment investors need information. This
investment information can be generated through financial accounting system.
 Meet Legal Obligations.
In certain period, it is a legal obligation of the companies to maintain ledger accounts
and final accounts. It is a legal obligation of the companies to carry out an
independent audit to obtain an opinion about financial statements. CGG are under
obligation to provide necessary accounting information to tax authorities to calculate
the tax liability of the organization.
 Forecast Future Performance.
When forecasting future performance, the CGG needs to analyze the past information
to find out the trend. For an example, if the company wants to forecast sales for a
future period they need the past sales records to identify the trend. In such a situation
relevant information can be generated through financial accounting system.

02.02. HR DEPARTMENT:
Concorde garments group’s current major production department at Mirpur-07 where the HR
department situated Major general AK Akhtaruzzaman (Retd.) is the head of HR department
of CGG. CGG HR is a critical component of employee well-being in RMG production
business, no matter how small or bigger. CGG HR dept. responsibilities include payroll,
benefits, hiring, firing, and keeping up to date with state and federal tax laws. Any mix-up
concerning these issues can cause major legal problems for CGG, as well as major employee
dissatisfaction. But small businesses often don't have the staff or the budget to properly
handle the nitty-gritty details of HR. Because of this, more and more small businesses are
beginning to outsource their HR needs. CGG HR outsourcing services generally fall into four
categories: PEOs, BPOs, ASPs or e-services. The terms are used loosely, so a big tip is to
know exactly what the outsourcing firm you're investigating offers, especially when it comes
to employee liability.
 A Professional Employer Organization (PEO)
 Business Process Outsourcing (BPO)
 Application service providers (ASPs)
 E-services
 Risk management
 Hiring and Firing of personnel
 Complaints & problems of workers
 Enforcement and compliance with employment laws
 Health care benefits
 Trained to worker and staffs
 Keep all bio data related all skill information individually

02.03. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:
Concorde garments group’s merchandising department situated near to their production
department at Mirpur-07. In elaborately, Merchandising is a process through which products
are planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyer. It includes directing and
overseeing the development of product line from start to finish. Marketing and merchandising
department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls
head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers
being handled. Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production
departments. Sometimes, merchandising department will have to do costing and pricing also.
In any case, the merchandiser is the person whose responsibility is to execute the orders
perfectly as per the costing and pricing. So it is a very valuable department.
 Product Development
 Market and product Analysis
 Selling the concept
 Booking orders
 Confirming Deliveries
 Designing and Sampling
 Costing(CM, C&F, CIF, FOB)
 Raw Material book
 Flow Monitoring
 Production Follow Ups
 Payments Follows
 Internal & external communication,
 Sampling
 Lab dips order
 Accessories & trims booking
 Preparing internal order sheets
 Preparing purchase orders
 Advising and assisting production,

 Advising quality department about quality level
 Mediating production and quality departments
 Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
 Helping documentation department
 Taking responsibility for inspections and
 Following up the shipment.
02.03.02. MERCHANDISING FUNCTION:
Fig 02.01: MERCHANDISING FUNCTION

02.03.02. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT STRUCTUR:
Fig 02.02: MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT STRUCTUR

02.03.03. MERCHANDISER SHOULD HAVE THE FOLLOWING BEASIC
QUALIFICATION:
 Good command in English and adequate knowledge of technical terms for accurate
and efficient communication.
 Good knowledge of fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, printing, finishing, dyes, different
fastness properties, garments production, etc.
 Clear conception of the usual potential quality problems in the garments
manufacturing.
 Good knowledge of the usual raw materials inspection systems and garments
inspection systems.
 Knowledge of the quota system used in each of the producing countries; duty rates;
customs regulations; shipping and banking documentation, etc.
02.03.04. MERCHANDISER IS A DATA BUS BETWEEN BUYER AND SELLER:
Merchandiser is he who builds up relationship with the buyer and acts as a seller. He
plays a vital role in an organization in a sense that he bears more responsibility than other
in regards to execution of an order.
The responsibilities which he bears on the job are as follows:
 He represents as a buyer to the factory.
 He represents as a seller to the buyers.
 He inspects all the qualities as a buyer (from the buyer¡¦s point of view);
 He negotiates a price for the sellers.
 He looks at the deal from seller¡¦s point of view.
 He looks into the business to flourish more in the future.
 He tries to offer the deal more competitive without compromising the quality.
 His object is to satisfy the buyers to progress more of the future business.
 His aim is to impress the buyers by means of Right Products, Right Quality, Right
Quantity, Right Time, and Undamaged Condition.

02.03.05. PROCUREMENT:
Procurement is an organization system meant with specifying and acquiring goods, services
and work of the required quantity, of the right quantity, on the right delivery (Date & Place),
at a reasonable price and from the right third party considering the best quality at minimum
price of purchased goods/services and focusing on getting better value for money invested in
procurement.
Why Procurement is Important:
 Company spends more than 50% of their Budget a year on procuring goods
and services to deliver their core services. Failure to purchase cost effectively
can put the achievement of key objective at risk.
 Procurement directly influences profit margin and sales volume.
The Major Procurement Problems:
 Undesired quality of goods/services and inadequate quantity.
 High cost of purchased goods/services.
 Disastrous delay in delivery of goods/services.
 High cost of inventory.
 Bad conditions of payment
 Unsecured sources and uncertainty of continuous supply.
 Absenteeism of supplier management.
 Failure to meet buyer’s needs.
02.03.06. PRODUCTIVE PROCUREMENT SYSTEM IS THE RADICAL
SOLUTION:
Fig 02.03: PRODUCTIVE PROCUREMENT SYSTEM IS THE RADICAL SOLUTION
Right Inputs in
the Right Time
Procurement
Department
Right Outputs in
the Right Time

Right Inputs:
 Right items specifications and predetermined standards
 Effective lead time
 Right payment system
 Supportive organizational structure
 Adequate Authorization
 Right material planning system
 Right inventory control system
 Right support from the higher Authority
 Right Technology
Right Outputs:
 Enough, qualified, sustaining and well managed sources (Suppliers)
 Required quality and adequate quantity of goods.
 Just in time delivery goods, services and works
 Better value for money invested in procurement
 Zero stock (approach)
 Buyer satisfaction
 Optimal payment terms
Fig 02.04: ENVIRONMENT OF PROCUREMENT SYSTEM
Procurem
ent
Departme
nt
Finance
Departm
ent
High
Author
ity
Suppliers
Merchandi
sing
Departme
nt
Store

02.04. SAMPLE DEPARTMENT:
Garment Sampling:
Garment samples are inevitably important and are developed tested before starting the
bulk production. It means making a sample of the garment /fabric which requires to be
sold. Sampling is one of the main processes in Garment Industry and it has a vital role in
attracting buyers. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied
with the quality of the samples.
Sampling
The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his
organization only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable
price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the
samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not
only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing
sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a
clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling
only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which
helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the sampling
department, which us led by a sampling in charge.
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample:
Confirmation of order, each sample sent 0 the buyer has the following details attached to
it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has
demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc. they have used (if applicable).After the
 Ref no.
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quantity
 Style n0/ Size
 Store

02.04.01. SAMPLE SECTION PROCESS:
Design / Sketch
↓
Pattern Design
↓
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting/Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
↓
Inspection
↓
Pressing/ Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Dispatch
Fig 02.05: SAMPLE SECTION PROCESS
02.04.02. TYPES OF SAMPLE:
Broadly garment samples are categorized as development samples and production samples.
Samples that are made in development stage are as following:
1. Proto Sample
2. FIT sample
3. Salesman Sample/Photo shot Sample
4. Size set Sample
5. Pre-production Sample

In production stage factory need to submit few more samples that includes
6. Top of Production Sample
7. Shipment sample
1. Proto Sample: These samples are proto type of new design created by designers. This is
the first sample in product development stage. Proto sample is made to communicate the
design of a style or a line or to present garment structure. In proto samples fit and fabric
detailing is not been considered.
2. FIT Sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual
measurement. Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment. FIT is
one of the most important factor to be considered during sample development. FIT
sample is being tested on live model or Dress form for to verify garment fit and fall.
3. Salesman Sample: Salesman samples are made to put on display in the retail showroom.
Salesman sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer's feedback and according to
customers response buyers forecast demand of a particular style. Sales samples are made
with actual fabric and trims and accessories. Buyer pays for salesman samples to the
developer.
4. Size set Sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in different
sizes. In this stage factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask size
set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, and XXL. Buyer check size set sample and give
feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected.
5. Pre-production Sample: All the above samples are made in sampling department. Buyer
wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual production line, so that
operators know what they are going to make. This sample is made with actual fabric,
trims and accessories and made by sewing line tailors. PP sample must be approved by
buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) prior to proceeding actual
production.

6. Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, few pieces is
taken out in the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP
sample. All buyers do not ask for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check whether factory
is following PP sample specification or not.
7. Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3 finished
and packed pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference. Shipment sample
is kept by factory merchants and buyers merchant. The approved shipment is sent directly
to warehouse and merchants at the buyer do not get garment out of the shipment. That is
why they keep shipment sample for future reference.
02.04.03. OBJECTIVE OF SAMPLE:
 To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer.
 To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
 To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost
quotations

02.05. STORE/WAREHOUSE:
For a bulk production industry it is essential to maintain a well-organized & well equipped
inventory system. The main responsibility of this department is to store all the raw material
necessary to produce garments. This department is sub divided into three sections.
Warehouse is the stock of any garments item or accessories resources used in an
Organization. Where kept everything before production.
02.05.01. STORE PROCESS DIAGRAME:
Fig 02.06: STORE PROCESS DIAGRAME
Raw Materials
Received.
 Security
check as
per C-
TPAT
procedures.
 Goods are
verified
against
invoice.
Shortage
 Marked
for
inventory/
inspection
.
 Store
with Bin
cards in
bins or
steel
pallets.
 Storing
buyer
wise and
lot wise.
 Trims are
keeping
on rack
with bin
cars.
Inspection
 10%
inspection
of fabrics
and trim
from bulk.
 If fail
another
15%
inspect.
 Still fail
another
25%
inspect.
 Still fail
inform to
MMD &
reject full
quantity
with rd
sticker.
Inventory
 Excess or
shortage
inform to
MMD &
commerc
ial dept.
 Delivery
invoice is
forwarde
d to C&
F.

02.05.02. WORKING FLOWCHART OF FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT:
They follow a strong and appropriate working procedure. Their work process flow is given
below:
Invoice
Waiting for inventory
QC inspection
Inventory
Pass goods area
Cutting input report (size break down)
Sewing line Requisition
Issue sewing line
Fig 02.07: WORKING FLOWCHART OF FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT
 Invoice: Invoice collect from supplier by Merchandiser. Without invoice it is not
possible to make the inventory, because there is list of goods in invoice. After
comparing invoice with received goods, received goods are placed as inventory.
 Waiting for inventory: When receive goods are not in pass goods are waiting for
inventory. Count goods are as per invoice which gets from Merchandiser. Time of
waiting inventory is maximum 24hrs.
 QC Inspection: To cheek the quality of received goods.
 Rules of QC inspection:
 10% inspection of received goods.
 2.5% defects are equal, over 2.5% will be failed.
 Non-confirm goods: It means something defects but it is acceptable.

 Inventory: When ware house gets invoice from Merchandiser, responsible persons
match invoice with received goods that is inventory. If there is any shortage, they are
to inform to Merchandiser to solve the problem.
 Pass Goods Area: When all activities are finished like inspection, register, count etc.
goods are allowed for pass goods area. And also goods are ready to going for
production.
 Cutting Input Report (size breakdown): As per cutting section’s requirement break
out quantity in the cutting input report on the basis of PO, Style etc.
 Sewing Line Requisition: It is based on PO, order quantity, style and consumption as
per sewing line requirement.
 Issue Sewing Line: As per sewing line requirement, compare requisition slip with
break down size report. Then it is issued by responsible person and recorded in the
Register book.
02.05.03. ACCESSORIES:
Sewing Line Accessories:
 Yarn
 Thin yarn: 4/2,5 /2,6/2
 Fat yarn: 20/2 (2yarn together), 20/3 (3yarn together)
 Button
 Interlining
 Main Label: It contains the names of buyer & country, Ex. PVH, ASH
City etc.
 Sub labels
 Size Label: It contains the size of the garments.
 Care Label: It contains the care construction. Different types of care label
are given below.
 Washing code
 Bleaching code
 Ironing code
 Dry cleaning code
 Drying code

Finishing Line Accessories:
 Neck board
 Hangtag with sticker
 Tissue (when folding shirts)
 Poly back
 Po sticker (If required)
Button packs measurement:
 1 GR = 144pcs
 12 GR= 1GG
 1GG=1728pcs
Elastic Measurement:
 1 GR = 144 yards
 12 GR= 1GG
 1GG=1728 yards
Yarn Measurement:
 1 con=4000 meters.
02.05.03.01. PROCESS OF ACCESSORIES RECIVING:
Receiving invoice
Unload materials
Inventory
Inventory report submit to Merchandiser
Stock Register entry
Supply as Requisition
Stock register balance
Fig 02.08: PROCESS OF ACCESSORIES RECIVING

Issuing record for Trim & Accessories:
 Issues Trim & Accessories as per customer PO, Trim & Accessories
supplier invoice, lot & trim card.
 Issue items as per process and to person responsibilities.
Process of Received Goods:
 Inventory register as per customer PO number.
 10% inspection.
 Inspection report in register.
 Factory name.
 Style number.
 PO (purchase order) number.
 Invoice.
 Trims & Inspection details.
 Storage location.
Issuing record for Received Goods:
 Issuing fabrics as per PO, style, supplier invoice, lot and swatch.
Fabrics Receiving & Inventory:
The process of fabrics receiving & inventory as like as Accessories receiving &
invoice.
4 points system wise fabric inspection:
Defects Penalty Point
0-3’’ 1
3.1”-6” 2
6.1”-9” 3
9.1”-Up 4
Note: Up to 28 points per 100 SQ MTS/YDS are acceptable defects.
Fabrics inspection: 50cm fabrics cut from a roll and send to washing plant as per
buyer’s requirements.
Fabrics Monitoring System:

 Cutting fabrics as per PO, style and inspection by approved machine.
 Compare FAB roll number with shade form.
 Check slip approved by cutting section.
 To check fabrics layer for defects while spreading fabrics.
 Number all cut panels and parts, log register form.
Fabrics purchasing issue: As per PO, order quantity and consumption, fabrics
purchase is to issue on the basis of buyer requirements.
Fabrics Register: After comparing goods with supplier’s invoice, goods are recorded
in the register book.
Cutting Line Requisition: Fabrics issue on the base of PO, order quantity and
consumption as per cutting line requirement. Fabrics consumption approved by buyer.
Store Keeping System:
 Unload fabrics
 Inventory in warehouse.
 Fabrics inspection
 Recording in register book and XL sheet.
 Updated information put in Bin Card.
Bin Card: It is updated information card for bin or rack, where is in quantity, out
quantity and stock quantity, also description of goods.
C-TPAT: To ensure the buyer that, we can give you better security, when receiving
goods, storing goods, packing and ware housing goods. Also ensure the buyer; we
have break point while receiving goods for making garments and shipping finished
goods by covering VAN or Cargo in one the way.

C-TPAT ‘7 point’ Inspection system:
 Appearance part of container/covered van.
 Left part of container/covered van.
 Under part of container/covered van.
 Inside part of container/covered van.
 Back part’s door part of container/covered van.
 Right part of container/covered van.
 Roof or Top part of container/covered van.

02.06. CUTTING AND FUSING DEPARTMENT:
Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being cut into
components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar
shapes etc.). In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are laid on a table and large
number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is called as lay. The cutting
process includes number of sub-processes and flow of the processes is as following. Each
process is briefly explained in the following.
Ratio for marker
Marker
Laying
Marker setting and cutting
Scissoring
Numbering
Re-lay
Finish cutting
Bundle handling
Input to sewing line
Fig 02.09: CUTTING AND FUSING DEPARTMENT
Marker: Marker is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all
sizes for a particular style of garments. It is made just before cutting and its purpose is
to minimize the wastages. The width of the marker is equal to the width of the fabric
and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric, i.e. fabric width is greater
than or equal to marker width. The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in
such a way that it would minimize wastages.

Objects of Marker Making: The garment industry has to pay a great attention to the
marker planning because when the cutting room cuts cloth it spreads around half the
company’s turnover. Any reduction in the amount of cloth used per garment leads to
an increase in profit. Marker planning is a conceptualizing, open and creative process.
In order to plan efficiently, it is necessary to visualize the marker as a whole or to see
it at a glance. The main objects can be summarized as follows:
 To reduce cost through controlling over wastages.
 To improve the quality of the garments.
 For a large scale of production
Types of Marker: Normally they can make this type of marker:
 Normal marker.
 Group Marker. (Width wise)
 Shade marker. (length wise)
 Block marker.
 All garments one way.
 One garments one way.
Factors considered during marker making: The important factors considered
during marker making are:
 Nature of the Fabric: The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric.
Thus the nature of the fabric should be considered during marker making.
 Lay planning of patterns: Improper lay planning of patterns may create more
wastage. Thus it should be taken under consideration.
 Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line: It is also
another important factor that must be considered. The warp direction of a
fabric is very much important for a garment and the grain line indicates the
warp or wale direction.
 Requirements of cutting: Before placing the pattern pieces onto the marker
or during marker making the cutting allowances are considered where

necessary and where is not. It may produce more wastage and may reduce the
dimensions of patterns.
 Production planning: Different types and sizes of garments manufacturing
may run at a time in an industry. So during marker making it should be
considered.
 Size of marker: During marker making we have to think about the table size,
length of the fabric, etc.
 Marker efficiency: It may be defined as the ratio of the total area of all the
pattern pieces in the marker to the total area of the marker plan. It is expressed
in percentage (%).
Marker efficiency =Total area of the pattern pieces/ Total area of the Marker paper ×100%
The higher the marker efficiency, the lower will be the fabric wastage i.e. least fabric will be
required to make a definite number of garments. So increase in marker efficiency is very
important. Efficiency 90%-93% is good marker.
Quality control in marker making: The objectives of quality control in marker
making can be summarized as:
 To ensure the markers are made to a size ratio that gives the required quality
and quantity per order by reducing the wastage of fabrics.
 To ensure no garment part is missed in the marker and the marker is of
comparable length and width of the fabric being laid.
Cutting section starts with the receipt of piece goods and ends with the completion of the
bundles of cut parts ready for sewing. The preparation for cutting is very important prior to
the cutting operation. Accurate cutting simplifies the sewing and pressing operation. Cutting
of fabrics or trims to size, where possible, eliminates considerable measuring, matching,
shaping and trimming in the sewing room. Proper punching of holes and notching is
important for accurately locating parts.

Quality inspection procedure for markers:
 Locations with manual marker making system: In these locations, the
markers should be inspected by the Quality Control Department before the
fabric is laid. This will leave sufficient time to make any correction to the
marker that is necessary.
 Locations with computer marker making (CAD) system: In location that
uses the CAD system, the marker information needs to be cross-checked by an
operator other than one who compiled the marker, before the marker is
printed. This is to ensure that no operator error has occurred. The marker can
then be re-inspected by the Quality Control Department after it has been
placed on the lay of fabric prior to cutting.
 Computerized marker making system: To get optimum efficiency of
markers as well as to minimize fabric wastage they done marker by
computerized marker making system .It has the digitized by which the patterns
are make grade and with the help of the software as well get output as marker
with the plotter.
02.06.01. PROCEDURE OF CAD SECTION:
 In CAD section at first the pattern put on the digitizer to take clear image of
the pattern part inside the CPU.
 After making all required size patterns using the software pattern parts are
aligned in the mini marker. Then it is sent to CPU of CPM section for
approval & checking the length & width of marker and pattern parts
alignment.
 After getting approval from CAD section then printer is used to print out the
whole real marker then this marker as well as mini marker are provided to the
CAD section for cutting the fabric.

02.06.02. WORKING PROCEDURES OF CAD SECTION:
Fig 02.10: WORKING PROCEDURES OF CAD SECTION
Pattern / Marker: According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment parts
are made on the pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual marker these
pattern pieces are used for marker making. On the other hand in CAD system patterns
are made in computer. Later using a plotter markers are made on sheet. In the second
case cutting department receive ready marker.
Cut ratio receiving: Prior to cutting, cutting department get a job sheet from
planning department or merchandiser or production manager that includes total
quantity of garment pieces to be cut, sizes ratio of the garments and color-wise size
break up. According to the size and color ratio cutting team prepare one marker or
multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are planned in this stage.

Fabric receiving: Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the
average consumption of the fabric from the marker. In case of multiple color order,
color wise requirement is made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting against the
fabric requirement (generally requisition slip is used).
Fabric relaxation: This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During
rolling of fabric it get stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form
otherwise garment would shrink after making. To relax the fabric roll or than is
opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.
Spreading (Fabric Layering): In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above another
maintaining pre-defined maker length and correct ply tension. Fabric is layered up to
a certain height to avoid cutting quality problem. Spreading is done by manual
layering or automatic layering machine can be used. During layering of the fabric,
fabric edge is aligned at one side.
Marker Making: After layering of a lay, pre made paper patterns (or ready markers
made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manual marker making,
marking is done around each pattern shape using marking chalk. This process is called
as marker making. In a marker all garment components are placed.
Cutting: Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is done
using straight knife or other cutting means. In cutting process garment component are
separated. On the basis of pattern shape different cutting method/ machine are
selected.
Numbering: Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching
all components from same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade
variation in a garment. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components
may be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There is
maximum chance of mixing of the components. If there is layer number in each
component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched
together.

Sorting: According to production system (Make through, progressive bundle or one
piece flow system) cut components are sorted. In sorting all component of a garment
placed together. Size wise sorting and in case multiple colors are cut in a single lay,
color wise sorting will be required.
Bundling: As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces with all
component are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each bundle is
marked with bundle number, style name, size number and quantity of pieces in that
bundle. At this stage cutting are ready to send to production line for stitching.
Fusing Alter Name:
1. BUBBLE AT A/H, S/SEAM, BK YOKE, SLV PLKT, CLR, CUFF ETC.
2. GLUE MARK AT A/H, S/SEAM, BK YOKE, SLV PLKT, CLR, BOX
PLATE ETC.
3. BROKEN AT A/H, SLV PLKT & BTM HEM.
4. SHINIHG AT S/SEAM, BOX PLATE & A/H.
5. EDGE GUP AT BOX & BTN PART, SLV PLKT.
6. DELAMINATION AT A/H, S/SEAM & BTM HEM.
7. RUPPING AT S/SEAM & BTM HEM.
8. INTERLINING REVERSE AT BOX PLKT.
9. LOW BONDING AT BOX PLATE, CLR & CUFF.
10. ZIK ZAK AT A/HOLE.
11. SHRINKAGE AT BOX PLATE, BTN PART, CLR & CUFF.
12. SPOT AT A/H, S/SEAM, CLR & CUFF.
13. PLATE AT A/H & S/SEAM.
14. HAND FEEL REMOVE AT BOX PLATE, CLR & CUFF.
15. COLOUR CHANGE AT BOX PLATE, CLR & CUFF.
16. EXTRA GLUE MARK AT A/H, S/SEAM & BK YOKE.
17. A/H, S/SEAM, SLV PLKT BUBBLE OR GLUE MARK FOR TAPE
ATTACH UN-EVEN.

02.07. SEWING AND PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT:
The project of joining fabric or seam is called sewing.
Element of sewing:
 Sewing thread
 Needle & Sewing Machine.
02.07.01. FLOW SEQUENCE OF SEWING SECTION:
Cutting fabric load in sewing section
Line plan according to style or design
Marking
Matching according to bundle no
Sewing according to garments design or style
Quality inspection during sewing
Quality inspection after sewing
Excess thread cutting
Remove dirt & dust from garments surface
Quality audit Send to next process
Fig 02.11: FLOW SEQUENCE OF SEWING SECTION

Sewing Defects:
 Needle damage
 Skip stitches
 Thread breakages
 Broken stitches
 Seam puckering
 Pleated seam
 Wrong stitch density
 Uneven stitch density
 Staggered stitch
 Improperly formed stitches
Line balancing: Line balancing is the allocation of sewing m/c according to style &
design of garments. It depends on what type garments we have to produced. It is done
increase the productivity & quantity.
Objective of Line balancing: Line Balancing is a main part of a mass production.
Three kinds of systems regardless of being different in details are workstations in
sequences. Row material is included in the line at the beginning or in the middle.
Parts included in the system transfers from one workstation through the other and at
the end leaves the system as completed product. Transfer lines uses manpower very
little when compared to assembly lines. The certain properties of transfer lines are
transfer and process of a product automatically through a line.

Objectives that should be gained balancing an assembly line are as follows:
 Regular material flow.
 Maximum uses of man power & m/c capacity.
 Minimum process time.
 Minimizing slack time.
 Minimizing work station.
 Maximum output at the desired time.
 Agreed quality maintenance of the garments.
 Reduce production cost.
The importance of line balancing could be summarized as follow:
 Good line balancing increase the rate of production.
 Line balancing help to compare the required machinery with the existing one
& make a balance.
 It also helps in the determination of labor requirement.
 Good balancing reduces production time.
 Profit of a factory can be ensuring by proper line balancing optimum
production at the agreed quality.
 It reduces fault in the finished product.
 Line balancing helps to know about new m/c required for new style.
 It becomes easier to distribute to particular job to its operator.
 It becomes possible to deliver goods at right time at the agreed quality for least
cost.
Steps in Line Balancing:
Now-a-days, Standard Minute Value (SMV) is used as a tool for the line balancing
production control and the estimation of efficiency. In a similar way, the time taken to
do a job for making garments like shirt/trouser/blouse/dresses could depend upon a
number of factors like.
 The length of the shirt/trouser /blouse/dress.
 The number of stitches per inch.
 The presentation of item.
 The pricing of garments.

Machine description:
For making a Basic Shirt, we need 7 types of sewing machines. They are given below:
1. Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine
2. Over lock or Over edge Stitch Machine
3. Button Holing Machine
4. Button Attaching Machine
5. Feed of the Arm
6. Kansai or Multi needle chain stitch machine
7. SN (Single Needle) & DN (Double Needle) Chain Stitch Machine (with or
without edge cutter & thread cutting mechanism)
02.07.02. ALL SEWING MACHINE DESCRIPTIONS ARE GIVEN BELOW:
1. Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine:
 No. of needle: Generally 1 needle or 2 needle
 SPM (Stitches Per Minute) : 1500-5500
 Stitch Length: 5mm in Juki (DDL-5500 model).
 Automatic Thread Cutting.
 Automatic Bobbin Winging.
 Edge Cutting System.
 Most commonly used for sewing of woven garments.
2. Over lock or Over edge Stitch machine:
 No. of needle : one or 2 needle
 No. of thread : 2-5 threads
 SPM : 6500-8000
 Stitch length: maximum 4mm and stitch length can be changed by push
button.
 Stretching maximum 1:0.6 and Gathering maximum 1:4.
 Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods but extensively used for
knitted goods.

3. Button Holing Machine:
 Stitch group : lock or chain stitch
 Arrangement of button hole size being small or larger
 Arrangement of stitch density being increased or reduced.
 Button hole can be made to cut the hole before or after sewing a button hole.
4. Button Attaching Machine:
 Productions lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch.
 Various types button clamps needs for attaching various sizes and types of
button.
 The bottom may be 2 or 4 holes. 4 whole button may be sewed by cross or
parallel.
 If chain stitch is used, the sewing looks nice, but the security of stitch is
comparatively less.
 In case of lock stitch used no possibility of sewing opening. But not looks
nice.
 In fully automatic machines, button feeding and positioning inside the button
clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe.
 It can attach predetermined number of buttons at a predetermined distance in
acyclic order.
5. Feed of the Arm:
 Number of needle : normally 2
 SPM : 3000 -3200
 Number of thread : 4 threads
 Twist per inch : 15 – 20
 Stitch group : chain stitch
 Mainly sewing shirts, Jeans, Gridding goods & double stitching pants.

6. Kansai or Multi needle chain stitch machine:
 Number of needle : 6-17
 Number of thread : 12 – 34
 SPM : 4000 – 4500
 Stitch group : Chain Stitch
7. Chain Stitch Machine:
 No. of needle : one or more needle
 No. of thread : one or more thread (Single thread or multi thread)
 SPM : 1800-6000
 Stitch length : 1.4 to 4.5 mm
 Automatic thread trimmer
 Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the machine
 Used in knitted wear and jeans
02.07.03. INDUSTRIAL ENGEERING (IE):
The main function of this department is to re-engineering the garment from the sampling
stage that it would be production friendly for the production as well helps to increase the
productivity through machine layout, time and motion study. In the sewn products industries
we must continuously ensure that we remain competitive profitable whilst also striving to
improve our personal and community’s standard of living. Productivity improvements may
be achieved through:
Industrial Engineering department:
 To follow up the production process
 Work process development
 SMV calculation & Line target
 Efficiency control
 Time study
 Capacity study
 Workers training
 Machine sequence lay out

 Thread consumption
 Operator interview
Duties and activities of a work study officer:
 SMV making.
 Layout makes.
 Machines arrange.
 Attend production planning (P.P) meeting.
 First week production.
 Line feeding.
 Work aid arrangement.
 Method study (innovation).
 To take video & record it.
 Time study.
 Line capacity find out.
 Bottle neck operation.
 Individually follow up bottle neck operation & try to increase production.
 Capacity & efficiency wise target setting &try to achieving.
 Line balancing.
 Motivation of the worker.
 Maximum time study in production line & try to any kind of production related
problem.
 Monitoring the production achievement hourly daily.
 Lost time record.
 Try to increase the productivity.

02.08. FINISHING AND PACKAGING DEPARTMENT:
LAY OUT OF FINISHING SECTION:
Washing (Spot Remover)
Finishing button
Thread trimming
Iron
Poly Packing
Cartooning
Final Inspection Shipment
Fig 02.12. LAY OUT OF FINISHING SECTION
PROCESS SEQUINCE OF THREAD TRIMMEING:
Loop cut
Pocket clean /Gun/ Hand
Pocket raise cut
Thread trimming Q.C check
Fig 02.13. PROCESS SEQUINCE OF THREAD TRIMMEING

PROCESS SEQUNCE OF IRON:
Iron on waist
Needle mark removes
Button turn & button close
Brush on garments
Final iron Q.C check
Fig 02.14. PROCESS SEQUNCE OF IRON
PROCESS SEQUNCE OF POLY:
Get up (Any process)
Q.C. Check
Poly table
Tag attached
Price sticker attached by hand tag
Brush & garments
Garments fold
Leg sticker attached
Insert poly
Shade matching
Poly close by scotch tape
Poly sticker attached
Q.C pass sticker
Fig 02.15. PROCESS SEQUNCE OF IRON

PROCESS SEQUNCE OF PACKING:
Shade matching
Body check by needle detector
Fold on garments
Insert poly
Poly close
Assortment
Final check /Inspection
Packing (Ratio pack)
Pack close
Pack sticker attached Send to buyer
Fig 02.16. PROCESS SEQUNCE OF PACKING
Trims:
Trims cover all the items used in the garment expect the basic fabric. There are
hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments. Proper selection of trims & its
quality are very important for styling; otherwise the garments may be rejected or
returned by the customers.
Sewing Thread:
 Shade, color fastness, etc.
 Tensile strength, Elasticity, Shrinkage, Moisture Regain, Abrasion Resistance,
etc.
 30s, 60s, 20/2, 40/9Ne, etc.

Labels:
 Main label
 Size label
 Care label
 Content
 Price
 Patch
Button:
 Metal buttons are very common in use
 Elastic
 Cotton polyester, etc.
String/Cord:
 Cotton
 Polyester
Tags:
 Price tags
 Hang tags, etc.
Poly bag:
 Strength, chemical mixture, Thickness (micron/mm: 1mm=1000 micron)
Blister Bag:
 0.05 mm in thickness;
 Loaded capacity is higher than poly bag.
Carton:
 3 ply
 5 ply
 7 ply size (L, W, & H)
Sticker:
 Hook and pile

Plastic clip, Tag pin, Hanger, Gum Tape.
 Finishing efficiency: Earn min = SMV × Production Available min/clock min =
Total man power × working min.
 Efficiency: Earn min Available min×100% in example – If SMV 4, Production
1200, Total man power 65, & Working min 600.
 Now efficiency: 4×120065×600×100%=12.30%

02.09. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT:
Quality as ultimate fulfillment of customer’s requirement in product, services and timeline.
CGG have two divisions to monitor quality: Quality Control Department which is reporting
to factory management and Quality Assurance Department reporting to factory ownership
for independent audits and to convey true reflection of quality being produced by factory
management.
02.09.01. QUALITY CONTROL:
During product manufacturing, CGG monitors quality of raw material and final product
through inspections at each step of product manufacturing.
Fabric Inspection and QC Procedures:
Incoming fabrics are inspected at JC Penney’s recommended 4 Point system. 100% fabric
is inspected by fabric QC’s. Each fault is given points keeping in view the nature and
intensity of the faults. 40 Points are allowed in 100 inspected yards. If number of
faults/points exceeded than 40 per 100 yard, the fabric roll is rejected. Lab test reports are
also taken from fabric suppliers and verified through internal and third party labs randomly.
Accessories Inspection:
Accessories at the time of receipt in store are randomly inspected by QC’s/concerned
persons at least up to 10% of the received quantity.
Cut Parts Inspection:
100% cut parts are inspected before input to sewing. The rejected components are replaced
from remnants or removed. Cut parts are also inspected 100% before sending and after
receipt from printing and/or embroidery.
Sewing Inline Inspection:
During stitching operations, the inspections are done on JC Penney’s recommended 7-0
System. Inline QC inspects 7 pieces randomly for each machine operator twice a day. If he
finds any fault among these 7 inspected pcs, the Sewing operator has to inspect the whole
bundle himself and offer inspection again to Inline QC. If the inspection is fault free, then
this sewing operator will undergo follow up inspection of 03 Consecutive bundles. If 03
Follow up Inspections are ok, the Inline QC moves to next machine operator. If during 1st

follow up inspection, the Inline QC finds any fault, then the said sewing operator has to go
under 2nd follow up inspection. If the 2nd
follow up fails then operator has to stop the work
for two decisions to be made depending on the nature of the faults (either machine to go
under maintenance or sewing operator to go for training or replacement).
Sewing End Line Inspection:
100 % garments are checked on sewing related faults after sewing completion. Both in and
out sides of the garments are inspected.
Use of Auto Trimmer & Thread Sucking Machines:
We are using Auto Trimmers for clipping to avoid un-necessary clipping cuts during this
process.
We are also using thread sucker machines to ensure that packed garments are free from
loose threads.
Final QC Inspection:
Garments are checked 100% on quality after pressing for fabrication, finishing, appearance,
sewing, shading, labeling etc. to make sure that quality garments are packed into cartons.
Measurement Specs Control:
Before packing, garments are 100% checked on measurements for key measuring points.
Internal Q.C Lab & Third Party Testing:
Fabrics and garments are randomly tested at internal QC lab on fabrics’ basic performance
features like fabric weight, shrinkages, torqueing, color fastness, PH Value etc. In addition
to this, garments are sent to third party labs (SGS, ITS, BV) for independent testing to make
sure that the outgoing goods are meeting customer’s required quality standards.

02.09.02. QUALITY ASSURENCE:
QA conduct daily random audits of cut parts during cutting process, inline audits during
sewing. They also do Batch audits before packing. Only QA passed garments are packed into
cartons. Finished goods audits are also conducted when shipment is ready. All internal QA
audits are done at AQL 1.50 Level II of military std. III. Quality Assurance Department is
reporting to factory ownership for independent audits and to convey true reflection of quality
being produced.

02.10. COMPLIANCE DEPARTMENT:
CONCORDE GARMENTS GROUP is totally a compliant factory. CGG has wages and
overtime calculation through computerized Human Resources Management System based on
employee’s in/out through employee’s card swiping. Leave record is also maintained by
system. All wages and compensation/benefits are paid in time and as per local law.
Employees are hired irrespective of religion, gender, color, and race. No worker hired under
the age of 18 years (age also verified before hiring through documents and by physician also).
We have Child Care facility, Fire hydrant system (including Fire Extinguishers and smoke
detectors), Medical facility, Blockage free Aisles-Exits-Stairs, Pure Drinking Water Facility,
broken needle log, worker’s grievance log and needle detector etc. Regular fire drills are
conducted to keep training more fire fighters. Have worker’s participatory committee.
GIZ-BGMEA Compliance Audit Pass on Feb 01, 2012 (Bale no got 77 marks out of 100)
 BSCI – Ready for it, can be done upon request of any BSCI member buyer.
 WRAP – Ready for it, can be done upon request of any buyer.
 Sedex
 GSV: Global Security Verification
 WCA: Workplace Conditions Assessment

PART: 03
MY ROLES & RESPONSIBILITIES AT MERCHANDISING
DEPARTMENT
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03.01. RESPONSIBILITES OF A MERCHANDISER:
Merchandiser need to work in a systematic way to ensure proper delivery of products at due
date. They had to do their work into daily, weekly, monthly and yearly basis. The activities
are
03.01.01. DAILY ACTIVITES OF A MERCHANDISER:
I. Checking mails and faxes. They need to give the reply within the day based on
priority.
II. Checking port status and convey to concern department.
III. Checking the shipments documents and inform concern department.
IV. Checking daily production status to understand shipment status
V. Checking shipment schedule and raw materials production status
VI. Follow-up with sample section for different buyers sample
VII. Follow-up with store for fabric and accessories received
VIII. Follow-up with the production manager for the production plan
IX. Follow-up with the commercial people L/C,BTB L/C and L/C amendment
X. Price quotation and delivery confirmation to the buyer
XI. Reporting to marketing and merchandising chief on the daily activities.
XII. Reporting to executive director on the important issue like various meeting, customer
visits compliances and code of conduct
03.01.02 WEEKLY ACTIVITES OF A MERCHANDISER:
I. Meeting with the fabrics and accessories supplier.
II. Meeting with the buyer and buying houses.
III. Prepare fabric and accessories requirement list, checking with concern and passing it
to supplier with proper specification.
IV. Prepare purchase order with approval and sign of proper authority.
V. Issuing pro-forma invoice with the approval and sign of the proper authority.
VI. Providing cost break-down to commercial department during L/C opening.
03.01.03. MONTHLY ACTIVITES OF A MERCHANDISER:
I. Meeting with the production people.
II. Meeting with the quality people and pattern master.

03.01.04. YEARLY ACTIVITES OF A MERCHANDISER:
I. Yearly self-assessment on the performance based on number of buyers handled,
shipment quantity, CM charge negotiated, debit note settled with the supplier.
03.02. MY ACTIVITY:
As an Intern I am working as a trainee merchandiser in Concorde Garments Group. So I am
getting the opportunity to learn lots of things in practical. In this time I have done different
activities related to merchandising, production, store management, sampling in this company.
03.02.01. MY DAILY ACTIVITY:
I. Preparing and maintaining swatch card
II. Scanning documents
III. Proper filling the documents
IV. Sample follow-up
V. Taking the photos of samples
VI. Mail communication
VII. Collecting production information
VIII. Reporting to concern supervisor
IX. Overviewing Production line
X. Observing how to run a sewing machine and other machine
XI. Observing how to inspect garments accessories and fabric
XII. How to fold garments and pack in cartoon
03.02.02. MY WEEKLY ACTIVITY:
I. Meeting with the fabrics and accessories supplier
II. Making accessories list
III. Meeting with the buyer and buying houses
03.04. RECOMMENDATION:
My recommendation is that management should be stricter about the sample section and they
should provide a formal briefing or one or two day’s workshop before starting internship
program.

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PART: 04
UNREST IN RMG FACTORY AND REASON PERESPECTIVE TO
BANGLADESH
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04.01. INTRODUCTION:
Everybody will agree that the ready-made garment (RMG) sector is the lifeblood for the
Bangladeshi economy. Maintaining higher export growth every year, now the sector is the
largest contributor not only to overseas trade but also to the national economy. The sector
alone directly employs 3.5 million skilled, semi-skilled and unskilled workers. Indirectly, the
garment sector, which started its journey in Bangladesh since the early 1980s, employs a few
cores of people in the country. The multi-billion dollar worth garment sector has reached the
current stage after a long struggle as Bangladesh does not produce the majority of its raw
materials. Bangladesh is mostly dependent on imported cotton, fabrics, and yarn and capital
machinery. Yet, the country is in an advantageous position in global trade market for its
competitive workforce. Despite all those troubles, Bangladesh is the second largest apparel
supplier worldwide after China. The country is a lucrative destination to the globally
renowned brands and retail chains like Hugo Boss, Adidas, Marks and Spencer, H & M, Zara,
Olympus and many more because of price competitiveness, enhanced sustainability standards
and skilled workforce. In spite of all the success stories, the garment sector is jolted with
volatility. It faced severe labor unrest for wage hike in 2006. Since then labor unrest took
place in the sector almost every year. Many experts and industry insiders describe it as a
conspiracy by certain national or international vested quarters, although it requires adequate
evidence to prove the involvement of such conspirators. Even during the latest labor unrest at
Ashulia in May and June, the sector people, experts, researchers, government officials and
lawmakers tried to know the real causes behind the unrest as it was not related to wage hike.
Records show that almost all incidents of massive labor unrest, which have direct link with
wage hike demand, took place in 2006 and 2010. Those incidents were resolved through
discussion. In 2006, garment workers demonstrated for a minimum wage hike and it was
fixed at Tk. 1662.50. In 2010 the workers agitated again for revision of the minimum wage
structure. After negotiating for a long time, the government committee fixed the minimum
wage for the garment workers at Tk. 3000 per month which came into effect in November
2010. This year the nature of labor unrest at Ashulia was different. Primarily, the unrest
started from a rumor of a death of a storekeeper at Ha-Meem Group in May 11. Later the
problem of unrest was resolved for a brief period of one month when the missing Salman
reappeared. But again the unrest started at the area despite repeated negotiating sessions
among the workers, their leaders, government high-ups and the owners. When the unrest
reached its pinnacle, the leaders of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters

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