this presentation is about HYDROPONICS AND AEROPONICS
AIR DYNAMICS
AQUAPONICS
PERMACULTURE …………. SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE
URBAN FORESTS
MIYAWAKI FOREST METHODS
2. WHAT IS COVERED HERE .......
• HYDROPONICS AND AEROPONICS
• AIR DYNAPONICS
• AQUAPONICS
• PERMACULTURE …………. SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE
• URBAN FORESTS
• MIYAWAKI FOREST METHODS
ROOF TOP PLAZA
THE CHICAGO ATHEANEAUM
3. • Hydroponics is a form of gardening
that uses no soil, but instead grows
plants in a solution of water and
nutrients.
• This system can grow plants and
vegetables faster than growing
outdoors in soil, and hydroponic
systems can be used year-round.
• Yield will be more, require less
space, and use less water than with
conventional gardening.
• A hydroponic system also can be an
ideal solution for apartment
dwellers and urbanites who do not
have an outdoor gardening plot.
Hydroponics.
6. What Are Some
Types of Aggregates
Used in Hydroponic
Systems?
1. Rockwool
2. Perlite or Vermiculite
3. Coco Coir (Coconut
Coir)
4. Clay Pellets
5. Gravel
6. Sand
7. Peat Moss
Types of aggregates used in hydroponic systems?
as earlier mentioned, some of the hydroponics systems require
aggregates, also known as growing media.
7. • Rockwool ---- most popular growing media to use for an
assortment of plants.
• Made from melted rock, spun into cubes with a very
distinct fibrous texture.
• USED in giant slabs, which can be useful for larger
hydroponic systems.
• Horticulturists believe it’s the best aggregate because it can
hold plenty of water.
• It’s also known for its oxygenation allowances, ensuring
sufficient air is retained for superior root growth.
• Fortunately, Rockwool is best for vegetative and generative
growth cycles without spiking pH.
• When working with this material, you’ll want to make sure
you soak it overnight to disperse the bonding agents.
Pros:
• Holds substantial water
• Offers optimal oxygenation
• Slow and steady drainage
• Easy to manipulate crops
Cons:
• Doesn’t decompose
• Difficult to dispose of
1. Rockwool
8. • These two materials are also made from stone,
similar to Rockwool.
• Perlite is derived from volcanic rock, while
vermiculite is typically mixed in and made from
mica.
• Together, these two substances are lightweight and
have a white colouring that can be added to soil to
improve aeration and drainage.
• It could also be a useful solution for wick systems
because they don’t involve rushing water, like ebb
and flow systems.
• It’s also essential to note that perlite dust can be
dangerous, So masks are needed to handle it.
Pros:
• Very lightweight
• Easy to manage
• Ideal for beginner-friendly setups
Cons:
• Doesn’t retain water well
• Dries out quickly
• Dust can be dangerous for your health
2. Perlite or Vermiculite
9. • Also known as coconut coir, coconut fiber is an incredibly
popular mater
• Genuine organic material and has impeccable performance
with hydroponics.
• Derived from the husks of coconuts and typically
considered as waste.
• it’s highly reliable for holding water and oxygen.
• Overall, coconut coir holds more oxygen than Rockwool
and far more water.
• Also, it has deficient nutrient levels, which means it won’t
affect the solution you use for your plants.
Pros:
• Absorbs plenty of water; retains moisture
• Optional low salt content
• Holds plenty of oxygen, good air capacity
• Organic material
• Doesn’t affect pH
• Can recycle it as a soil amendment
Cons:
• Could be expensive
• High salt coir needs leaching
3. Coco Coir (Coconut Coir)
10. • Clay pellets are popular alternative aggregate for farmers.
• This unique material is designed correctly for hydroponics
because it works quite well with several setups.
• Size of clay pellets -- one to 18 mm. They are designed to
expand once they absorb water.
• Within each pellet, there are a ton of tiny air pockets that
allow for superior drainage.
• Highly recommended for ebb and flow systems / system
that requires frequent watering's.
• The most expensive growing media but can be cleaned and
reused.
Pros:
• Great for ebb and flow systems
• Easy to maintain
• Reusable when disinfected
• Allow for perfect drainage
• Easy to flush
Cons:
• Poor water holding capacity
• Dry out easily
• Absorb salt
• Expensive (but you can sanitize and reuse)
4. Clay Pellets
11. • The least expensive, gravel is a fantastic aggregate.
• It was one of the first types of growing medium that
was used .
• Readily available .
• The plants’ roots will have the perfect amount of air,
• but it’s not ideal for retaining water.
• Use this material in systems that get frequent
waterings.
• Has the same advantage as clay since it can be
reused
once it has been sterilized.
Pros:
• Inexpensive
• Easy to source
• Heavy-duty
• Reusable
Cons:
• Doesn’t absorb water
• Requires frequent watering
5. Gravel
12. • Sand is another original material common in
old-world systems.
• Sand is one of the least used materials today.
• It is quite inexpensive and heavy-duty,
• it is not ideal for growing most types of
plants.
• Also, since sand is known for packing down
tightly,
it doesn’t allow for enough roots to grow and
breathe.
• It’s also not the best material for water
absorption.
• Use of builders’ sand, which has a coarse
texture.
Pros:
• Inexpensive
• Easy to find
• Historically useful
Cons:
• Poor oxygenation
• Doesn’t hold moisture
6. Sand
13. • Like coconut coir, this material is entirely natural and
• has a number of benefits to the production of vegetables.
• Peat moss is known for its highly absorbent composition,
• and it feels like a sponge, making it ideal for retaining
water.
• It’s also perfect for aeration, ensuring the plants’ roots get
the ideal levels of oxygen.
• It is most useful in large net pots, allowing plants’ roots to
wick up water.
• Also known to dissolve over time easily and can increase
the likelihood of root diseases.
• Requires far more maintenance than some of the other
materials because it can clog pumps and drip emitters.
Pros:
• Perfectly absorbs water
• Impressive water retention
• Organic
• Easy to use
Cons:
• Decomposes quickly
• Will clog hydroponic setups
7. Peat Moss
14. Types of hydroponic systems
How Many Types of
Hydroponics Are There?
1. Deep Water Culture
(DWC) Systems
2. Nutrient Film
Technique (NFT) Systems
3. Ebb and Flow (Flood
and Drain) Systems
4. Wick
5. Drip Systems
6. Aeroponics Systems
15. • It is the simplest types of hydroponics to explain since it’s quite
straightforward.
• With this system, the plants’ roots are fully submerged in a nutrient-rich
solution, allowing them to absorb nutrients.
• Compared to other methods, like wick systems, deep water culture allows to
oxygenate and feed plants quite well
• The basin contains the nutrient-rich solution there are also aerating tools like
aerating stones.
• This equipment is responsible for producing oxygen bubbles and diffusing air
through the water, ensuring the roots are oxygenated.
• This is one of the purest forms of hydroponics because it has plenty of
features similar to a fish tank.
Many places around the world, including Japan, use this system. Most companies
will use it to grow lettuce hydroponically and other plants that can be placed on
free floats.
1. Deep Water Culture (DWC) Systems
16.
17. Pros:
• Allows roots to be
fully submerged.
• Plants easily absorb
nutrients.
• Relatively easy to
construct.
• Works well with all
plants.
• Plants will grow
quickly.
Cons:
• Likelihood of root
disease.
• Requires consistent
maintenance.
Deep Water Culture (DWC) Systems
18. 2. Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) System
• This process is entirely water-based and requires the use of pre-designed
channels to deliver nutrients.
• The nutrient-rich solution is in the reservoir, which will then be pushed into
channels.
• The plants’ roots will be in the channels that let the solution flow over the roots
and back into the reservoir.
• Instead of completely submerging the roots as in a deep water culture system,
NFT allows water to be recycled easily.
• When a nutrient film technique hydroponic system is used since the channels
are small use of smaller plants is recommended.
• This system does not rely on a growing medium.
19.
20. Pros:
• Easy to scale for
small or medium-
size plants
• Useful for growing
small and large
plants
simultaneously
• Doesn’t require a
growing medium
Cons:
• Mostly useful for
plants with small
roots.
• Not ideal for
massive plants.
2. Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) System
21. • These are highly popular for commercial and at-home ventures. Another
name for this system is flood and drain.
• Most home gardeners will use this system because it’s easy to maintain and
design.
• The plants are inside a growing bed that contains a growing medium.
• When you have your items planted, the system will flood the growing tray or
plant tray with the nutrient-rich solution.
• Need to determine the correct height for flooding to ensure plants’ roots are
getting enough nutrients without drowning.
• Once the solution has been in the plant tray for a certain period, it then
drains back into the reservoir.
• This system is unique since it requires precise timing to promote the
plants’ healthy growth.
• Ensuring that the input pump pushes and drains the nutrient-rich solution at
the right time and that plants have enough time to absorb enough of the
solution to thrive.
3. Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain) Systems
22.
23. Pros:
• Easy to maintain,
low maintenance
• Suitable for most
plant types
• Great for root
vegetables
Cons:
• Not ideal for large
plants Relies
primarily on the
pump controller
• Requires ample
space
3. Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain) Systems
24. 4. Wick systems
• The simplest forms of hydroponics it is considered to be a passive, non-
recovery type hydroponic system.
• Out of the 6 types of hydroponics, this method teaches the fundamentals of
hydroponics.
• Wick systems do not require electricity, pumps, or aerators, making them perfect
for hydroponic greenhouse systems kits.
• In this system, plants are placed directly into a porous growing medium. Nylon
wicks are placed around the roots of the plants dipped directly into the nutrient
solution.
• The wicks pull the nutrient solution into the growing medium, transferring the
specific nutrients to the plants.
• In the wick system, vermiculite mix, perlite or sand is used and a growing
medium.
25.
26. Pros:
• Easy to design
• Inexpensive
• No pump, no moving
parts.
• Great for kids
• Teaches the
fundamentals.
• Requires limited
equipment
Cons:
• Poor distribution of
nutrients
• Not ideal for large plants
• Lacks nutrition for most
vegetables
4. Wick systems
27. 5. Drip Systems
• Drip is a hydroponics system that is easy to maintain and
customize based on needs.
• A drip system is used with full control over how much solution
each plant receives.
• It is easy to adjust the solution’s flow depending on the plants
and how often they should be fed.
• Drip systems also offer plenty of flexibility in terms of scale
since they can be large or small.
• Two Option : between circulating and non-circulating formats,
with circulating systems operating with a constant drip.
28.
29. Pros:
• Simple to alter
• Reuses unused
nutrients
• Perfect for individual
plant needs
• Useful for large to
small plants
Cons:
• Constant pH
monitoring
• Must maintain nutrient
levels
• Likelihood of root
diseases
5. Drip Systems
30. 6. Aeroponics Systems
• It is the most technologically-advanced of the hydroponic setups.
• In aeroponics, the plants will be suspended in the air, typically held by
exclusive clips.
• There are specialized misters carrying a nutrient-rich solution which will
mist the plants’ roots at regular intervals.
• Since the plants are suspended in the air, they receive both the food and
oxygen they need to grow.
• It consumes the least amount of water and therefore the best option.
• However, of all the different hydroponic systems, an aeroponics system is
one of the more complicated systems.
31.
32. Pros:
• Helps to conserve water
• Perfectly feeds plant
roots
• Offers optimal
oxygenation
• Provides higher yields
• Takes up less space
Cons:
• Difficult to maintain
• Expensive to set up
• Requires regular
maintenance
6. Aeroponics Systems
33. • The Kratky method is a variation of the Deep Water Culture and the Kratky
method /works is simple .
• What is different is that the Kratky does not use electricity to run. So no pump,
no timer needed.
• A reservoir/container, or anything that holds water filled with water and
nutrients, covered with a lid. In the lid in a cut / hole is placed a net pot.
• The net pot is filled with growing media so that the plants roots are hung by the lid.
They are partly exposed to the air while parts of them are sunk into the water. That
means plants are able to take up sufficient oxygen, water, and nutrient
• Over a period of time, plants grow. They will drain the water, still leaving parts
of their bare roots come into contact with the air
• When the reservoir runs out of the water, the plants have reached the end of
their growth phase. Otherwise, it can be filled with water and nutrient solution,
and allow plants continue to its growth phase.
• So in theory, the Kratky requires little care. It also does not cost much. That makes it one
of the easiest system to set up, which is highly suited for starters, hobbyists, and children.
The Kratky Method
34. Variations of the 6 Primary
Hydroponic Systems
The Kratky Method
How it works:
• Plants are placed in a net pot, hung by a
floating platform.
• Parts of the roots are submerged in the
water while the rest are exposed to the
air.
• Over time, when plants grow, the water
level reduces, leaving an air zone for
plant roots.
• A hands-off system.
Pros:
• Inexpensive. Very easy to set up
• Little effort needed
Cons:
• Only suitable for fast-growing plants,
like lettuces, spinaches
• Not efficient for large systems.
35. • Fogponics is an advanced form of aeroponics.
• If in aeroponics, growers use the water misting to provide water and
nutrients for plants, in fogponics, the foggers are used. The so-called fog is
just the humid environment produced by the foggers.
• Unlike traditional Hydroponic forms where plant roots are not sunk into the
air and get oxygen through the air pump, fogponics allows the roots to be
bare into the air. They get necessary moisture and nutrients via the fog.
• In the sense, plants can get great amounts of oxygen and water in
fogponics, helping them focus on growing at a faster and stronger level
• Because the way it works, fogponis is fairly suitable for growing many types
of plants like green vegs, herbs, and especially seedlings, and cutting
cloners.
• Some downsides, including certain initial investment, built up salt from the
fogger, and they are quite vulnerable to the power outages.
Fogponics
36. How it works:
• An aeroponics variation.
• A fogger, which can be
connected to a timer, is used to
transform water and added
nutrients of the reservoir into
super tiny small droplets (or
fog).
• Plants roots are hung freely in
the air with plenty access to
oxygen. They get moisture and
nutrient via the wet atmosphere
of the fog.
Pros:
• Thorough coverage for the roots
• Recirculating.
• Water saving
Cons:
• Expensive.
• Susceptible to power outages.
• Built up salt.
Fogponics
37. Dutch Bucket
How it works:
• An Ebb & Flow variation.
• Several buckets are placed on the bench
or the floor. Each bucket should contain
one plant.
• A big reservoir holds the nutrient
solution, which is pumped through the
irrigation line, then drop onto the plants
via the emitters.
• The excess solution can return to the
reservoir via the drain line, or drain out
of the system
Pros:
• Great for a variety of plants, including
fruiting, bushy, and vining ones
• Flexible. Can expand to any size growers
want
• Good for starters
Cons:
• Require some maintenance. Not hands-
off like the Kratky method
• Susceptible to power outages.
• Diseases can spread fast if they occur in
the reservoir.
38. • Dutch Bucket, or Bato Bucket system is a versatile hydroponic methods used to
grow various plants .( esp. tomatoes, which are very suited for this system
because it is built to accommodate large, vining plants.)
• The system can be recirculated or non-recirculating depending on how growers
want to set up. To save the water and nutrients, a drain line can be connected
with the buckets with its end pointed to the reservoir.
• A disadvantage of the recirculating system is it can cause nutrient unbalance over
time. So it needs replacing the nutrient in the reservoir often.
• Growing media suitable for this system are perlite, vermiculite, expanded clay
pellets because of their good water to air holding ratio and great plant-support
ability
• The Dutch bucket can vary in designs with the number of buckets used; types
of buckets growing media, pipes chosen. But operates like ebb and flow (flood
and drain method).
• Overall, this is an interesting and effective hydroponic system
Dutch Bucket
39. • Gregory Chow, lecturer at the Ngee Ann Polytechnic, Singapore now has Air-
Dynaponics - a much less costly way of maintaining low root-zone temperatures
for commercially-successful aeroponics. It costs only about one fifth to cool the
nutrient solution.
• Air-Dynaponics and similar systems use the cooling principles of the latent heat
of vaporization and the venturi effect in an air-powered operation that not only
reduces the temperature of a nutrient solution, but also adds to its aeration
(dissolved oxygen).
• Plants need this dissolved oxygen - and so do fish.
• The Air-Dynaponics and similar systems also open up wider commercial
investment not only in the aeroponic technology, but also in the aquaponic
technology in which fish provide organic hydroponic nutrient for plants.
• Fish wastes from aquaculture (excreta, surplus feed and micro-organisms
growing on both) provide the sole nutrients for organic vegetable growing in
hydroponic channels or from aeroponic boxes.
AIR DYNAPONICS
40. •In sub-tropical and tropical aquaponics there are two
major advantages offered by Air-Dynaponics and
similar systems, which are:
1. Temperature flexibility --- where a sub-tropical or
tropical fish species may require tank water
temperature around 28 or 29 degrees C for optimum
production, the organic hydroponic or aeroponic
element for temperate-climate vegetables may require
temperatures around 21 degrees C. Air-Dynaponics
and similar systems could cater for this without undue
expense for energy.
2. Improved aeration (oxygenation) -- dissolving
oxygen in water for fish or plants is easier in cooler
water.
An Air Dynaponics system in aquaponics would
mean that the cooler nutrient solution for plant growth
can be returned to the fish tank
(a) stripped of its nutrients that lead to fish deaths if
allowed to accumulate (b) with a much higher
dissolved oxygen content for improved fish health and
higher stocking rates.
AIR DYNAPONICS
41. AQUAPONICS
• Aquaponics is a
cooperation between
plants and fish and
the term originates
from the two words
aquaculture (the
growing of fish in a
closed environment)
and hydroponics (the
growing of plants
usually in a soil-less
environment).
• Aquaponic systems
come in various sizes
from small indoor
units to large
commercial units.
42. Aquaponics is a sustainable method
of growing vegetables and other
plants. It mimics nature as the plant
“kingdom” reuses the leftovers from
the animal kingdom (fish) to close
a circular loop. However, achieving
the system’s balance, maintaining it,
and securing optimal conditions for
the fish and plans means a close
control of different parameters.
THESE ARE:
1. Air temperature;
2. Water temperature;
3. The concentration of macro and
micronutrients
4. Dissolved oxygen in air and
water – which depends on the
filtration method used;
5. CO2 concentrations in air and in
the water;
6. pH;
7. Light.
AQUAPONICS
43. 1. The very high initial start-up costs (compared with both hydroponics or
soil production systems) of aquaponics is one of its weaknesses;
2. Aquaponics requires deep expertise in the natural world. In order to be
successful, farmers need to have knowledge not only on growing
vegetables but also on how fish and bacteria work. And technical skills
regarding plumbing or wiring are also needed;
3. As a follow up from the previous point, it’s often hard to find a perfect
match between the needs (such as pH, temperature, substrate) of fish
and plants;
4. Aquaponics has fewer management options (an issue developed
ahead) compared with stand-alone aquaculture or hydroponics;
5. Mistakes managing the system can quickly cause its collapse;
6. Daily management is needed, which means the organization is crucial;
7. It’s energy demand, which means it has energy costs;
8. Fish feed needs to be purchased on a regular basis;
9. The products of aquaponics alone aren’t enough to ensure a balanced
diet;
AQUAPONICS : WEAKNESS
44. AQUAPONICS : BENEFITS
1. It makes it possible to have an intensive food production system that’s still sustainable;
2. It encompasses two agricultural products (fish and vegetables) being produced from one
nitrogen source (fish food);
3. It is an extremely water-efficient system. In fact, only needs 1/6th of the water to grow 8
times more food per acre compared to traditional agriculture;
4. It doesn’t require soil and therefore it’s not susceptible to soil-borne diseases;
5. It doesn’t require using fertilizers or chemical pesticides;
6. It is a synonym of higher yields and qualitative production;
7. It means a higher level of biosecurity and lower risks from outer contaminants;
8. Allows a higher control (as it’s easier than soil control) on production leading to lower losses;
9. Aquaponics can be used on non-arable lands such as deserts, degraded soil or salty, sandy
islands;
10. Creates little waste, as it mimics nature’s circular approach;
11. Requires daily tasks, harvesting, and planting which are labor-saving and therefore can
include all genders and ages;
12. It can integrate livelihood strategies to secure food and small incomes for landless and poor
households;
13. Creates fish protein – a valuable addition to the dietary needs of many people;
14. It is a completely natural process that mimics all lakes, ponds, rivers, and waterways on
Earth;
15. From a nutritional standpoint, aquaponics provides food in the form of both protein (from the
fish) and vegetables
45. • Permaculture is a philosophy for a
sustainable, holistic lifestyle. Ecological
researcher and writer, Bill Mollison and David
Holmgren coined the term in 1978.
• They combined the
words permanent and agriculture to
create permaculture as a system of ecological
farming. They later changed it
to permanent and culture to include the social
needs of people and their housing as well.
• To put it simply, permaculture
works with nature instead of against it.
• In the wild, ecosystems regenerate on their
own and are self-maintaining. Permaculture
practitioners observe these natural processes and
recreate them on their farms or in their backyards.
PERMACULTURE
46. • Permaculture draws from
concepts of agroforestry,
applied ecology, organic
farming, and sustainable
development.
Ways to build regenerative
systems with that knowledge
include:
• Hügelkultur
• Rainwater harvesting and
distribution
• Lasagna mulching
• Composting
• Rotational grazing
• Building with natural
materials.
PERMACULTURE
• Ecological principles influence the design
of sustainable and permanent growing
areas. Once established , the gardens need
little to no interference to be productive,
which means minimum labour.
• Structures are sustainably designed and
built of natural materials produced on the
property. Forests provide trees, and dirt
can be transformed into cob or adobe
bricks, for example.
47. APPLYING ECOLOGICAL PRINCIPLES
• Healthy forest ecosystems have layers of plant
life.
1. The canopy - tall trees -- provide shade. Below –
2. the under story—trees that do well in light shade.
3. The shrub layer is made up of woody perennials.
4. The lowest layers are herbaceous, and die back
every winter.
5. Then it’s the soil and its ground covers, and
6. finally the rhizosphere, or root layer.
7. There is also a vertical layer of vines and
climbing plants.
• So it is easy to incorporate layers into a
landscape.
1. Canopy trees provide building materials and firewood.
2. The under story and shrub layer give fruits and berries.
3. Perennial crops and culinary and medicinal herbs could
comprise the herbaceous layer.
4. Annual and perennial cover crops could be used as the soil
layer.
5. Foods like beets, turnips, and carrots could comprise the root
layer.
6. While poles beans could be the vertical layer.
PERMACULTURE
48. • Applied to gardens,
permaculture is basically a
design system which is
intended to mimic patterns
and relationships in nature
while also providing food
and energy.
• In a nutshell, it's very smart
design that focuses on the
relationships between things,
rather than on separate
objects or pieces of the
landscape.
PERMACULTURE
49. • Water distribution determines where growing areas are placed.
Harvested rainwater is gravity fed into built swales and ditches
that follow the contours of the land. Irrigation water naturally flows
to crops and livestock, and storm water and snow melt follow this route.
• Collected rainwater is used in the house for cooking and cleaning,
too.
• Permaculture zones are determined from its proximity to the
house. This is based on how often they are worked. Vegetable
and herb gardens are closest to the house, because they are
tended daily. While the farthest zone is wild and untouched. In
between are areas for an orchard and a greenhouse, fields for livestock,
and a woodlot.
• Each zone has a purpose for supporting the entire landscape.
There are food and shelter for people, animals, and wildlife.
PERMACULTURE
51. 1. Observe and
interact
2. Catch and store
energy
3. Obtain a yield
4. Apply self-
regulation and
accept feedback
5. Use and value
renewable resources
and services
6. Produce no waste
7. Design from
patterns to details
8. Integrate rather
than segregate
9. Use small and
slow solutions
10. Use and value
diversity
11. Use edges and
value the marginal
12. Creatively use
and respond to
change
PERMACULTURE RESEARCH AND LITERATURE
56. MIYAWAKI FOREST METHOD
• With this method of plantation, an
urban forest can grow within a short
span of 20-30 years while a
conventional forest takes around
200-300 years to grow naturally.
• In the Miyawaki technique, various
native species of plants are planted
close to each other so that the greens
receive sunlight only from the top
and grow upwards than sideways.
• As a result, the plantation becomes
approximately 30 times denser,
grows 10 times faster and becomes
maintenance-free after a span of 3
years.
57. Trees around a shinto shrine in Sasayama, Hyogo
The Miyawaki forestation method is a unique
way to create an urban forest and is pioneered
by Japanese botanist Akira Miyawaki (
58. The basic steps to create an urban forest with the Miyawaki method.
• Ideally the selected site should have minimum dimensions of 4 by 3 metres
and receive sunlight for at least 8 hours a day.
MIYAWAKI FOREST METHOD
1. Soil Preparation
2. Select Native Species of Plants
3. Design the Forest ( layer the
species)
4. Plant : 3/5 in a sq m.
5. Water //and Monitor the
Plantation.
63. MELBOURNE , AUSTRALIA
If you want to live a peaceful life, either bring the forest to your house or your
house to the forest !!!!!
― Mehmet Murat Ildan