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Garments & garment defects zubair lahore
- 1. PresentationPresentation onon Garment and garmentGarment and garment defectsdefects By Muhammad Zubair
- 2. IntroductionIntroduction ofof Knitted and Woven Garment StylesKnitted and Woven Garment Styles
- 3. Garment Styles IntroductionGarment Styles Introduction Styles for Tops.Styles for Tops. •• Crew neckCrew neck •• V neckV neck •• Mock neckMock neck •• Turtle neckTurtle neck •• Base ball crewBase ball crew •• PoloPolo •• RugbyRugby •• HenleyHenley •• HooderHooder Styles for bottomsStyles for bottoms •• MenMen’’s basic pants basic pant •• KidsKids ¾¾ pantpant •• Ladies basic pantLadies basic pant •• MenMen’’s Bermudas Bermuda ••
- 5. V neckV neck
- 8. Base ball crewBase ball crew
- 10. RugbyRugby
- 11. HenleyHenley
- 13. MenMen’’s basic pants basic pant
- 15. Ladies basic pantLadies basic pant
- 17. Flow Chart of Textile IndustryFlow Chart of Textile Industry Fabric Cutting Finishing Sewing Packing Dyeing
- 18. QualityQuality ““ To make garment according to buyersTo make garment according to buyers requirement.requirement. ”” Make garments free of any defects.Make garments free of any defects. Keep garment measurements according to buyerKeep garment measurements according to buyer’’s requirement.s requirement. Make garment aesthetically goodMake garment aesthetically good..
- 19. FabricFabric used in Garmentsused in Garments Knitted fabricKnitted fabric Woven fabricWoven fabric
- 20. Wale “Columns of knitted loops along the length of fabric” Unit: Wales / cm Knitted fabric:Knitted fabric: •• CourseCourse ““Rows of knitted loopsRows of knitted loops across the width of fabricacross the width of fabric”” Unit: Course / cmUnit: Course / cm
- 21. Main Knitted fabric typesMain Knitted fabric types •• JerseyJersey •• RibRib •• InterlockInterlock •• PiquePique •• FleeceFleece
- 22. Woven fabric:Woven fabric: weaving is the process of interlacingweaving is the process of interlacing two or more yarns at right angels to each other to produce woventwo or more yarns at right angels to each other to produce woven fabicfabic.. The yarn whichThe yarn which run in the lengthrun in the length wise direction arewise direction are called warp (End)called warp (End) .While those.While those which run crosswhich run cross wise are calledwise are called Filling or weftFilling or weft (Pick).(Pick).
- 23. Main woven fabric typesMain woven fabric types •• PlainPlain •• TwillTwill •• SatinSatin •• CanvasCanvas
- 25. Contents of cutting processContents of cutting process •• Introduction of patternsIntroduction of patterns •• Understanding of lay plans and consumptionUnderstanding of lay plans and consumption •• Spreading TechniquesSpreading Techniques •• cutting techniques and equipmentcutting techniques and equipment
- 26. Cutting Flow chartCutting Flow chart Fabric receiving Trim sheet making (roll to roll) Mock ups verification Lot to lot Continuity shade cards making Lot to lot Cutting plans gives to master Lay spreading Specs & consumption Random cutting audit Bundling In house embellishments 100 % cut panel audit Induction in Sewing commercial embellishments Re bundling
- 28. Cutting TechniquesCutting Techniques Automatic CutterAutomatic Cutter
- 29. SewingSewing
- 30. Sewing IntroductionSewing Introduction •• Sewing needlesSewing needles •• Stitch types & their characteristicsStitch types & their characteristics •• Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
- 31. Sewing Machine TypesSewing Machine Types •• Single needle lock stitch machineSingle needle lock stitch machine •• Double needle lock stitch machineDouble needle lock stitch machine •• Three thread over lock machineThree thread over lock machine •• Four thread over lock machineFour thread over lock machine •• Flat lock machineFlat lock machine •• Buttonhole making machineButtonhole making machine •• Button attach machineButton attach machine •• Bar tack machine.Bar tack machine.
- 35. Buttonhole machineButtonhole machine Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
- 36. Button attach machineButton attach machine Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
- 38. Importance of packing inspectionImportance of packing inspection Packing inspection is an important part of qualityPacking inspection is an important part of quality assurance system.assurance system. Packing indicates how many product will be shippedPacking indicates how many product will be shipped together in the same box or container.together in the same box or container. Some critical buyerSome critical buyer’’s have very specific requirement fors have very specific requirement for packaging because of their automation systems and thepackaging because of their automation systems and the number of items that are processed on a daily basis.number of items that are processed on a daily basis.
- 39. Importance of packing inspectionImportance of packing inspection For exampleFor example Some buyer required carton bar code sticker on end portion ofSome buyer required carton bar code sticker on end portion of carton or side portion of carton according to ware housecarton or side portion of carton according to ware house requirement and buyer can reject the shipment due to wrong orrequirement and buyer can reject the shipment due to wrong or unreadable barcode stickers.unreadable barcode stickers. Buyers can reject whole shipment because of wrong packaging.Buyers can reject whole shipment because of wrong packaging.
- 40. Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection
- 41. Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection The following are the inspection points for garmentThe following are the inspection points for garment presentation.presentation. Garment balancingGarment balancing a) Even shouldersa) Even shoulders b) Even sleevesb) Even sleeves c) Even armholesc) Even armholes d) Even Under armsd) Even Under arms e) Even sidese) Even sides f ) Even sleeve / cuff openingf ) Even sleeve / cuff opening g) Even side ventsg) Even side vents
- 42. Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection Garment pressingGarment pressing a) No wrinklesa) No wrinkles b) No iron marksb) No iron marks c) No press folding marksc) No press folding marks Garment shapeGarment shape a) Even neck / collar shapea) Even neck / collar shape b) Even arm hole shapeb) Even arm hole shape c) even back moon shapec) even back moon shape d) Even hem bottom shaped) Even hem bottom shape
- 43. Final inspectionFinal inspection •• Check packingCheck packing •• Choose samplesChoose samples •• Check against style sheetCheck against style sheet •• Check against approvalsCheck against approvals •• Check garment QualityCheck garment Quality •• Check garment measurements.Check garment measurements. •• Make inspection report.Make inspection report.
- 46. AQL introductionAQL introduction AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels. AQL charts containsAQL charts contains 1) Lot size1) Lot size 2) Sample size2) Sample size 3) Acceptance / Rejection Level3) Acceptance / Rejection Level AQL 0.065 Tighter 2.5 AQL 6.5 Easier
- 47. AQL introductionAQL introduction AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels. 1) Lot size : Quantity of garment presented for inspection.1) Lot size : Quantity of garment presented for inspection. 2) Sample size : Selected number of garment for inspection.2) Sample size : Selected number of garment for inspection. 3) Acceptance : No of defective garments up to which shipment3) Acceptance : No of defective garments up to which shipment is pass.is pass. 4) Rejection : No of defective garments from which shipment is4) Rejection : No of defective garments from which shipment is fail.fail. Sample size for a given lot size will change with the change ofSample size for a given lot size will change with the change of levels. Thelevels. The acceptance and rejection levels will also change according to leacceptance and rejection levels will also change according to levels.vels. The AQL levels for inThe AQL levels for in--line, during production and final inspections forline, during production and final inspections for different buyers can be different.different buyers can be different.
- 48. Types of DefectsTypes of Defects A.A. Spinning DefectsSpinning Defects B.B. Knitting and Weaving DefectsKnitting and Weaving Defects C.C. Dyeing/Finishing DefectsDyeing/Finishing Defects D.D. Embellishment DefectsEmbellishment Defects E.E. Trims DefectsTrims Defects F.F. Stitching DefectsStitching Defects
- 49. A.A. Spinning DefectsSpinning Defects •• Fluff / ContaminationFluff / Contamination •• KnotKnot •• Yarn Variation / BarreYarn Variation / Barre •• Contrast SeedsContrast Seeds •• HairinessHairiness
- 50. FluffFluff
- 52. KnotKnot
- 53. Yarn variation / Yarn band.Yarn variation / Yarn band.
- 54. 104.104. Trash / Contrast seedsTrash / Contrast seeds
- 56. B.B. Knitting and weaving DefectsKnitting and weaving Defects •• HoleHole •• Fabric / Needle RunFabric / Needle Run •• Incorrect Fabric WeightIncorrect Fabric Weight •• Stop markStop mark •• MisMis pickpick •• Loose endLoose end
- 57. HoleHole
- 58. Fabric/ Needle runFabric/ Needle run
- 59. Incorrect fabric weightIncorrect fabric weight 460 GSM (Approved) 160 GSM (Reject)
- 61. MisMis pickpick
- 63. C.C. Dyeing/Finishing DefectsDyeing/Finishing Defects •• Color ShadingColor Shading •• Dye / Finishing streaks / creasesDye / Finishing streaks / creases •• Shade patchesShade patches •• PillingPilling •• Yellowing of white fabricYellowing of white fabric
- 64. Color shadingColor shading Approved Reject
- 65. Dyeing or finishing streaksDyeing or finishing streaks
- 66. Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing .. Shade patches / Uneven dyingShade patches / Uneven dying
- 67. Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing 116 .116 . Calendar lineCalendar line
- 68. Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing 117 .117 . PillingPilling
- 74. Incorrect color shadeIncorrect color shade EmbellishmentEmbellishment Approved Reject
- 75. Incorrect size EmbellishmentIncorrect size Embellishment Approved Reject
- 76. Incorrect placement ofIncorrect placement of EmbellishmentEmbellishment Approved Reject
- 77. Untrimmed thread EmbroideryUntrimmed thread Embroidery
- 78. Hoop Pleat MarksHoop Pleat Marks
- 80. Embellishment not as specifiedEmbellishment not as specified Approved Reject
- 86. Incorrect color / shade / Code trimIncorrect color / shade / Code trim
- 87. Incorrect size trimIncorrect size trim
- 88. Trim not as specifiedTrim not as specified
- 91. Incorrect placement of trimIncorrect placement of trim
- 93. DamagesDamages •• Broken stitchesBroken stitches •• Skip stitchSkip stitch •• Open seamOpen seam •• Needle holeNeedle hole •• Needle chewNeedle chew •• Poor reworkPoor rework Sewing defectsSewing defects
- 94. ConstructionConstruction Crooked shape neckCrooked shape neck Crooked collarCrooked collar High / Low collar pointHigh / Low collar point High / Low placketHigh / Low placket Slanted / crooked placketSlanted / crooked placket Exposed underExposed under--placketplacket Pleat / Hole at placket boxPleat / Hole at placket box High / Low shoulderHigh / Low shoulder Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 95. Raw edgesRaw edges Overrun stitchOverrun stitch Insecure stitch endingsInsecure stitch endings Incorrect tension / GrainingIncorrect tension / Graining Uneven stitchingUneven stitching PuckeringPuckering PleatPleat MisalignmentMisalignment OverlappingOverlapping RopingRoping Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 96. NegligenceNegligence Strip mismatchingStrip mismatching Uneven hemUneven hem Inconsistent stitch countInconsistent stitch count Excess / Less seam allowanceExcess / Less seam allowance Incorrect placement of componentIncorrect placement of component Incorrect color combinationIncorrect color combination Untrimmed threadsUntrimmed threads Construction not as specifiedConstruction not as specified Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 97. FabricFabric Twisted garmentTwisted garment Incorrect fabric shade usedIncorrect fabric shade used Shading within garmentShading within garment Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 98. Sewing problemsSewing problems Broken stitchesBroken stitches
- 99. Sewing problemsSewing problems Skip stitchesSkip stitches
- 100. Sewing problemsSewing problems Open seamOpen seam
- 101. Needle holeNeedle hole Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 102. Sewing problemsSewing problems Needle chewNeedle chew
- 103. Summary SlideSummary Slide Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 104. Poor reworkPoor rework Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 105. Crooked shape neckCrooked shape neck Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 106. Crooked collarCrooked collar Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 107. High / Low collar pointHigh / Low collar point Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 108. High / Low placketHigh / Low placket Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 109. Slanted / crooked placketSlanted / crooked placket Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 110. Exposed under placketExposed under placket Sewing problems & RemediesSewing problems & Remedies
- 111. Pleat / hole at placketPleat / hole at placket Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 112. High / Low shoulderHigh / Low shoulder Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 113. Sewing problemsSewing problems Raw edgesRaw edges
- 114. Overrun stitchOverrun stitch Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 115. Insecure stitch endingsInsecure stitch endings Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 116. Incorrect tension / grainingIncorrect tension / graining Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 117. Uneven stitchingUneven stitching Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 123. Stripe mismatchingStripe mismatching Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 124. Uneven hemUneven hem Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 125. Inconsistent stitch countInconsistent stitch count Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 126. Excess / Less seam allowanceExcess / Less seam allowance Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 127. Incorrect placement of componentIncorrect placement of component Sewing problemsSewing problems Approved Reject
- 128. Incorrect color combinationIncorrect color combination Sewing problemsSewing problems Approved Reject
- 129. Untrimmed threadsUntrimmed threads Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 130. Construction not as specifiedConstruction not as specified Sewing problemsSewing problems Approved Reject
- 131. Twisted garmentTwisted garment Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 132. Incorrect fabric shade usedIncorrect fabric shade used Sewing problemsSewing problems Approved Reject
- 133. Shading with in garmentsShading with in garments Sewing problemsSewing problems
- 134. Clock WiseClock Wise Garment InspectionGarment Inspection
- 141. L
- 142. L
- 143. L
- 144. L
- 145. R L
- 146. R
- 147. R
- 148. R
- 149. R
- 151. Thank YouThank You